Phase3 Vaporizers

[invertedisdead]

So you're going with quartz? Do you think its possible to use the 20mm coil with boro and not having it crack? I know you said the boro/quartz shouldn't effect the flavor too much, due to the spheres having the most impact, but I would like the boro. Id probably buy 1 quartz and 1 boro to compare.

I definitely think with proper coil fitment it's possible to use borosilicate. Since my vape was designed with a coil arm to secure the coil to, the coil shouldn't have to be fitted so tight to work that cracking the housing is really an issue. Now when I broke my 20mm prototypes I didn't adjust the coil at all, and I knew from experince with my bangers that it felt too snug going on, but I really wanted this vape to work without needing any coil adjustments like people were doing with the elev8r; so I just ran with it anyways to see what would happen. Due to the nature of glass and everything being made by hand though, some initial coil adjustment may be inevitably necesarry.

It should be no problem getting the housing made in both quartz and borosilicate if people want to experiment with that. Cool thing about quartz is it could very likely turn this into one hell of a torch vape....

You will be selling parts separately correct? I've got a lot of the items already to make this vape.

Absolutely! The goal of this vape was always to be modular, other than my custom heater housing everything else is modular. Even though I still plan to do custom bowls, if someone breaks a bowl they can always use a F to M adapter in the meantime. Or use coils from whatever PID they own. Or change the entire convection core. This vape was designed for all of that.

Also about the bowl, not much discussing about it. I re-read your post about wanting the custom glass bowl because of the untapped crumbs. Is the "flared lip" located where the screen goes?

If so, there are adapters (bowls) online that don't have that. Probably would be cheaper / faster than doing another custom part.

Yeah I ordered some of those off the shelf adapters to try because they look suitable, but they haven't shown up yet with all the COVID stuff going on. If the off-the-shelf parts don't work as well as I'm expecting, it's likely I'll design a 18F-14M adapter where the midsection reduces to ~.5" for a half inch SS screen; instead of the current 3/4" screen being used. That should concentrate the heat even tighter and improve extraction even further.

Also I noticed the very first post says your using a 25mm coil. Thats a typo correct? It uses 20mm barrel coils from any company. Just wanted to confirm.

That was my first proof-of-concept which was basically @Stu and @Buildozer Evo On A Stick with 4mm sapphires pearls, and I used a 25mm barrel coil to heat it since the adapter I used had a wider flange. Buildozer's original version used a 20mm barrel coil, as does my current prototype. But technically, this vape is designed around the 710coils 20mm "tall" coil since it's just a little longer which seemed like a good thing.

 

[nonamekevin]

@invertedisdead the elev8r heater doesn't directly work with a 16mm coil without adjustment. All the coils used for elev8r have to be stretched and massaged a bit to work properly.

Which is why we are here! Glass vape meant for a direct drop in to an off the shelf coil!

 

[Morty]

I got this torch vape idea that I think could be pretty big, but it needs testing.

Cool thing about quartz is it could very likely turn this into one hell of a torch vape....

I'm curious how many people would be interested in a true 100% glass bowl with a glass screen that actually works for ground herb, assuming that there might be a little bit more draw restriction, and you might need somewhat of a more course grind? It would work for a lot of other vapes that use the same 18F connection so I figure that's a plus, maybe herborizer or elev8r peeps or whatever might want one too?

 

[Buildozer]

I definitely think with proper coil fitment it's possible to use borosilicate. Since my vape was designed with a coil arm to secure the coil to, the coil shouldn't have to be fitted so tight to work that cracking the housing is really an issue. Now when I broke my 20mm prototypes I didn't adjust the coil at all, and I knew from experince with my bangers that it felt too snug going on, but I really wanted this vape to work without needing any coil adjustments like people were doing with the elev8r; so I just ran with it anyways to see what would happen. Due to the nature of glass and everything being made by hand though, some initial coil adjustment may be inevitably necesarry.

It should be no problem getting the housing made in both quartz and borosilicate if people want to experiment with that. Cool thing about quartz is it could very likely turn this into one hell of a torch vape....



Absolutely! The goal of this vape was always to be modular, other than my custom heater housing everything else is modular. Even though I still plan to do custom bowls, if someone breaks a bowl they can always use a F to M adapter in the meantime. Or use coils from whatever PID they own. Or change the entire convection core. This vape was designed for all of that.



Yeah I ordered some of those off the shelf adapters to try because they look suitable, but they haven't shown up yet with all the COVID stuff going on. If the off-the-shelf parts don't work as well as I'm expecting, it's likely I'll design a 18F-14M adapter where the midsection reduces to ~.5" for a half inch SS screen; instead of the current 3/4" screen being used. That should concentrate the heat even tighter and improve extraction even further.



That was my first proof-of-concept which was basically @Stu and @Buildozer Evo On A Stick with 4mm sapphires pearls, and I used a 25mm barrel coil to heat it since the adapter I used had a wider flange. Buildozer's original version used a 20mm barrel coil, as does my current prototype. But technically, this vape is designed around the 710coils 20mm "tall" coil since it's just a little longer which seemed like a good thing.

The magic is in thermal mass/surface area of the beads, the e-nail compensates for the rest; the other aspects come down to preference or compromise IMO, and are almost insignificant for the overall performance IMO.. When you don't have enough thermal mass/surface area, the other little details are more important; but when you do have that, it's pretty much an idiotproof endeavor.. The G43 finally showed me how much less thermal mass is actually still more than enough.. We totally slapped the DIY one together imperfectly (I didn't even bother cleaning the adapter out well. Lol), and never even made any adjustments, and it works more than fine IMO, so I have no complaints.. All glass would always be nice, but mostly glass is perfectly fine IMO and screens are a worthwhile compromise.. I imagine smaller beads extract better/faster because of more surface area, and maybe the same mass of larger ones would offer a little better flavor I've only used the small ones from the G43, and I'm really happy w/ the surface area to thermal mass ratio we randomly ended up using.

The video/pic we uploaded is a pretty bad representation of how the DIY one we did works, since we had the temp way too high. Someday I’ll upload a proper video so it's performance isn't misrepresented.. I just realized recently just how bad what we uploaded makes it look! Lol

It's not like I had an original idea, but I appreciate the recognition. The only reason I haven’t commented on your vape, is because it’s something you’re trying to sell, and IMO this is something anyone can do, and should be encouraged to.. I'd like to see others realize success w/ something so simple. I like you used the elbow adapter; if I still had one around I likely would've gone the same route.. Good luck!

 

[MileHighHuman]

I definitely think with proper coil fitment it's possible to use borosilicate. Since my vape was designed with a coil arm to secure the coil to, the coil shouldn't have to be fitted so tight to work that cracking the housing is really an issue. Now when I broke my 20mm prototypes I didn't adjust the coil at all, and I knew from experince with my bangers that it felt too snug going on, but I really wanted this vape to work without needing any coil adjustments like people were doing with the elev8r; so I just ran with it anyways to see what would happen. Due to the nature of glass and everything being made by hand though, some initial coil adjustment may be inevitably necesarry.

If you got the heater housing made at 19.5mm OD, im assuming it would work even better than your current 19mm, while not having to worry about it cracking at 20mm OD. Plus maybe that would eliminate the need to adjust the coil? Is 19.5mm OD possible or can the producer only make 19mm and 20mm?

Also, how many 4mm spheres does it take to up the heater housing? And what about for 6mm?

 

[invertedisdead]

The only reason I haven’t commented on your vape, is because it’s something you’re trying to sell, and IMO this is something anyone can do, and should be encouraged to.. I'd like to see others realize success w/ something so simple. I like you used the elbow adapter; if I still had one around I likely would've gone the same route.. Good luck!

People should definitely try and build their own vape if it interests them, and the Evo On A Stick thread is a great place to start!

What I'm looking to sell is the custom heater shell (made in USA) and hopefully supporting a few FC vendors in the process for a few accessories I want to do.

I knew I could either use an off-the-shelf glass part and build a custom coil, or use an off-the-shelf coil and have a custom built glass part. That's another reason I wanted to have it built out of quartz, to differentiate it, cause I get that it looks like a pre-existing part, but it's still custom made. And to get the most even vaporization the bowl will probably need to be custom made too.

I think that's the challenge with glass vapes is they are expensive to make, but have a low perceived value due to their fragility. I was quoted over $3000 to build a prototype of InVerzion 2 which is even simpler than this vape, but more complicated to build. That's why it became 2 instead of 1

If you got the heater housing made at 19.5mm OD, im assuming it would work even better than your current 19mm, while not having to worry about it cracking at 20mm OD. Plus maybe that would eliminate the need to adjust the coil? Is 19.5mm OD possible or can the producer only make 19mm and 20mm?

Also, how many 4mm spheres does it take to up the heater housing? And what about for 6mm?

The quartz and boro tubing come in stock sizes, I don't believe 19.5mm is one of them. Even if you started with the perfect diameter tube, since the whole part is hot-worked by hand to build the finished part, it probably changes the tolerance a little bit.

As far as number of pearls, I counted it out at one point but I can't remember right now...

I wouldn't necesarrily recommend 6mm pearls, at least, not for the entire heating chamber, as they created a tunnel and caused a hot spot directly in the middle of the bowl where air was following the path of least resistance.

 

[Ramahs]

 

[Buildozer]

People should definitely try and build their own vape if it interests them, and the Evo On A Stick thread is a great place to start!

What I'm looking to sell is the custom heater shell (made in USA) and hopefully supporting a few FC vendors in the process for a few accessories I want to do.

I knew I could either use an off-the-shelf glass part and build a custom coil, or use an off-the-shelf coil and have a custom built glass part. That's another reason I wanted to have it built out of quartz, to differentiate it, cause I get that it looks like a pre-existing part, but it's still custom made. And to get the most even vaporization the bowl will probably need to be custom made too.

I think that's the challenge with glass vapes is they are expensive to make, but have a low perceived value due to their fragility. I was quoted over $3000 to build a prototype of InVerzion 2 which is even simpler than this vape, but more complicated to build. That's why it became 2 instead of 1

I haven't read too much of the thread TBH so I'm probably missing something, but I think I get what you’re trying to do.. You’re running w/ an already well proven and simple concept, and trying to market it as something you’re improving on more than negligibly, while trying to make something that looks unique enough to justify selling, and collaborate w/ popular companies you like. I think the collaboration is cool, and I get why a unique appearance and the minutiae would be an important marketing aspect, even though all the important work is done by the coil/controller, and the magic is in the thermal mass/surface area of the beads. I understand that a lot of people have little interest in DIYing vapes, so there’s always a market for that, for sure..
Best of luck, and I’m genuinely curious to see how it turns out.

 

[invertedisdead]

I haven't read too much of the thread TBH so I'm probably missing something, but I think I get what you’re trying to do.. You’re running w/ an already well proven and simple concept, and trying to market it as something you’re improving on more than negligibly, while trying to make something that looks unique enough to justify selling, and collaborate w/ popular companies you like. I think the collaboration is cool, and I get why a unique appearance and the minutiae would be an important marketing aspect, even though all the important work is done by the coil/controller, and the magic is in the thermal mass/surface area of the beads. I understand that a lot of people have little interest in DIYing vapes, so there’s always a market for that, for sure..
Best of luck, and I’m genuinely curious to see how it turns out.

Cheers, I appreciate your well wishes

Back in 2017 I had an idea to combine the glass purity of the GS with the form factor of the FP. At that time the only glass dekstop vapes really available for sale were nearly 1 foot tall. I knew I wanted a smaller FP style form factor for using on my small water rigs than what something like the others offered. The Elev8r and the G43 didn't exist yet or I probably would have just bought one of those. I pretty much gave up on my vape idea for a while though because I couldn't figure out how to secure the coil without having parts custom machined. ($$$)

When the Elev8r came out and people started attaching a coil to it, I was (and still am) blown away that people weren't having issues with the glass crunching, as that was the only reason I never launched this vape 3 years ago. I've had numerous experiences with quartz bangers breaking from a contracting coil not fitted perfectly, so I just assumed the same long term issues would arise with a glass convection heater.

Later on, the G43 was a big inspiration for me to launch this vaporizer because I really wanted to buy a G43, and nobody knew if they were ever going to be built again. At the same time, Glass Symphony sales ceased; so ultimately I felt something like this was missing from the market. I wanted to build something ultra small, but ultra pure - with American worked glass to keep the standards high, and some cool accessories inspired by nature and built by admired FC vendors.

 

[Sick Vape]

Just from speed reading through the thread, this sounds alot like my perfect vape.

(Thats what happens when you stay away from FC for a couple days )
I unluckily did not pull the trigger for the GS, as it looked too big to easily store away or pass as something unsuspicious.

I want one or two

For the materials. Borosilicate glass would transfer the heat from the coil a little better to the beads than quartz? When you have both at hand, do you feel a difference (I guess specially when taking several draws back to back? It does not matter really when everything is heat soaked I guess)
I have an enail with a quartz dish. When I heat it up and it reaches the temp on the PID I can still touch the top of the dish. Thats what makes me think that the quartz version would take a little longer to reach temperature again after a draw. Then borosilicate is not very fast at conducting heat either and I get your idea of a torchable vaporizer.

 

[invertedisdead]

Just from speed reading through the thread, this sounds alot like my perfect vape.

(Thats what happens when you stay away from FC for a couple days )
I unluckily did not pull the trigger for the GS, as it looked too big to easily store away or pass as something unsuspicious.

I want one or two

For the materials. Borosilicate glass would transfer the heat from the coil a little better to the beads than quartz? When you have both at hand, do you feel a difference (I guess specially when taking several draws back to back? It does not matter really when everything is heat soaked I guess)
I have an enail with a quartz dish. When I heat it up and it reaches the temp on the PID I can still touch the top of the dish. Thats what makes me think that the quartz version would take a little longer to reach temperature again after a draw. Then borosilicate is not very fast at conducting heat either and I get your idea of a torchable vaporizer.

Welcome aboard, @Sick Vape !

What you're describing when you touch your quartz nail is the thermal conductivity - to borrow this graph from the Highly Educated link I posted a page or two back, the conductivity of the two materials is extremely similar.

(the top bar is fused quartz, the bottom is borosilicate glass)

So for the InV there's a few ways I looked to improve, or maximize the thermal conductivity aspects of this vaporizer. The first thing I had to do was keep it small - many of my inital sketches and renderings were too big; I think that stems from powerhouses like the GS and the idea that more beads = more "power." But realistically, the heating coil itself is quite small, I'm using a 20mm x 16mm "tall" from 710coils, but the average 20mm coil is more like 12-13mm, AFAIK. The thermal conductivity of glass is low, so the thermal "hot zone" is fairly small too, and having a bunch of beads outside that hot zone is more likely to soak/steal heat than add to the air temp. That's why it didn't work at all when I tried to fill the whole joint with beads.

Another way I improved the conductivity is by using lab grown sapphire pearls instead of glass. Sapphire is ~35x more conductive than glass/quartz but still has a very neutral pure flavor, so I knew I could use that conductivity to increase the size of the hot zone, relatively, compared to using boro beads. The final improvement was enclosing it in like an oven. An earlier prototype actually had an open top and you could really feel the radiant heat when you used it. But building it like an oven helps retain a good amount of radiant heat and redirects some back at the pearls furthest away from the coil to help them stay nice and saturated. This radiant heat, combined with conduction from the sapphire pearls also really helps to keep the top and middle of the glass heater shell nice and hot, despite the low conductivity of glass and the distance from the actual heating coil.

If you've ever had a ruby/sapphire pearl fall out of your banger when q tipping you know they stay hot as f*ck for a long time! I honestly haven't noticed any performance decreases with multiple back to back sessions with multiple people, the gem pearls seem to hold heat extremely well. If you read a few pages back I talk about the large ruby acting kind of like an "oven door" plus with constant power supply from the coil I haven't observed any declines in performance with back to back hits due to the specific heat capacity of crystalline sapphire compared to other commonly used metals and glasses.

 

[Dubmonkey]

Interesting that you posted your experiences with sapphire balls. Last night using the GS and taking super slow long weak draws gave me way more milk. Realized that the glass beads cool down and need slow airflow to reheat. With your sapphire ball set up the sapphires would retain heat better and make it easier to milk. Your proto looks to be working well. Watching this thread religiously.

 

[Sick Vape]

Thanks for the explanations! I get why and how the sapphire pearls increase the performance, especially with the small size of the InVerzion.
I love that you pay attention to all these details and that you let us follow your development.
I really believe that with the InVerzion you fill and improve a gap left by the GS and the G43 (it has not a true glass air path because of the heater iirc).

Probably you have already thought of that and mention it in the thread. I will read thoroughly, I just mention it in case of.
Did you think of an enclosure around the coil to keep the heat from dissipating into the air and ideally reflect it back towards the beads? The GS for example could be wrapped in aluminium foil to increase the efficiency.

 

[invertedisdead]

Interesting that you posted your experiences with sapphire balls. Last night using the GS and taking super slow long weak draws gave me way more milk. Realized that the glass beads cool down and need slow airflow to reheat. With your sapphire ball set up the sapphires would retain heat better and make it easier to milk. Your proto looks to be working well. Watching this thread religiously.

Really appreciate you following along, you definitely get first dibs with all the interest you have expressed

Yeah the sapphire core is an absolute powerhouse, you can see with my 19mm boro prototype the coil isn't even touching half of the heater shell and this vape still rips as hard as it does! With this vape the faster/harder you hit it, the quicker it produces thick vapor

I really believe that with the InVerzion you fill and improve a gap left by the GS and the G43 (it has not a true glass air path because of the heater iirc).

FWIW This vape currently has .23g of stainless steel in the air + vapor path. I wrote a few pages back about the pros and cons of going to a metal screen to retain the beads in the heater shell versus the "glass turbine" I used on an earlier prototype. None of the SS in this vape functions as a heater though.

Did you think of an enclosure around the coil to keep the heat from dissipating into the air and ideally reflect it back towards the beads? The GS for example could be wrapped in aluminium foil to increase the efficiency.

Yeah I thought about it, but I wasn't sure how to mount anything to do it. There's a couple cool techniques that could be done to the glass housing itself to increase reflectivity. Also alternative heater designs that are already designed to account for stuff like that; but I wanted to keep things pretty simple with this vape. If I get to build InV2 I'm gonna try to introduce some stuff like that though.

 

[MileHighHuman]

It looks like it takes at least 30 spheres to fill up (just from me trying to count them in the photo)

Anyways, you said the heater is a tad over 2 inches in length, how much taller do you think it would need to be made to fit perfect with the 710 tall coil? Or do you not feel that would not be necessary? It would require more spheres to fill up, but the size increase shouldn't be too bad if it does benefit better heat stabilization?

I know you said you've had no issues with multiple people hitting it back to back to back, but just mentioned that since you said you're currently using the tall coil, switching from the regular size 20mm coil you were previously using.

 

[invertedisdead]

It looks like it takes at least 30 spheres to fill up (just from me trying to count them in the photo)

I think it's around 50-ish, I'll check the next time I disassemble it. I might try 3mm pearls next time I order some just to check it out with a bit more draw resistance!

edit: alternatively, different mesh size screens could be used to adjust draw resistance with the same sized pearls as well.

Anyways, you said the heater is a tad over 2 inches in length, how much taller do you think it would need to be made to fit perfect with the 710 tall coil? Or do you not feel that would not be necessary? It would require more spheres to fill up, but the size increase shouldn't be too bad if it does benefit better heat stabilization?

It's already made to pair perfectly with the tall coil!

the ABV weighed .03g

Get Inverted

 

[Dubmonkey]

Dang did you do a bowl before and hold your breath and do another in that vid? Crazy. Release the Kraken!

 

[TheThriftDrifter]

the ABV weighed .03g

Get Inverted

WTF! Mind blown.

 

[MileHighHuman]

Wow .03 ??

That's wild.

Do you know if an ELB would fit into the 18mm joint?

Im curious if getting the flower closer to the heat would make it better?

I like both the off the shelf, and custom bowl, but just throwing some other thoughts/possibilities out there.

 

[Sick Vape]

Really appreciate you following along, you definitely get first dibs with all the interest you have expressed

Yeah the sapphire core is an absolute powerhouse, you can see with my 19mm boro prototype the coil isn't even touching half of the heater shell and this vape still rips as hard as it does! With this vape the faster/harder you hit it, the quicker it produces thick vapor

FWIW This vape currently has .23g of stainless steel in the air + vapor path. I wrote a few pages back about the pros and cons of going to a metal screen to retain the beads in the heater shell versus the "glass turbine" I used on an earlier prototype. None of the SS in this vape functions as a heater though.




Yeah I thought about it, but I wasn't sure how to mount anything to do it. There's a couple cool techniques that could be done to the glass housing itself to increase reflectivity. Also alternative heater designs that are already designed to account for stuff like that; but I wanted to keep things pretty simple with this vape. If I get to build InV2 I'm gonna try to introduce some stuff like that though.

I would just try with a glass tube covered with aluminium foil that fits around the coil to see if it changes anything substantial. But now thinking about it, it probably just changes the amount of energy the coil has to deliver. The 710 coils can deliver anything needed.
I am absolutely for keeping it simple.
I never used a true all glass air path vaporizer. There was always a screen or something metal involved.
I am for keeping it simple too. One can still try to replace the heater screen with glass wool or a glass disc of some kind later. But I would love to try the all glass bowl.

 

[invertedisdead]

I would just try with a glass tube covered with aluminium foil that fits around the coil to see if it changes anything substantial. But now thinking about it, it probably just changes the amount of energy the coil has to deliver. The 710 coils can deliver anything needed.
I am absolutely for keeping it simple.
I never used a true all glass air path vaporizer. There was always a screen or something metal involved.
I am for keeping it simple too. One can still try to replace the heater screen with glass wool or a glass disc of some kind later. But I would love to try the all glass bowl.

What I was thinking is if I do build the glass bowl for InV1, potentially I could recycle the same glass screen in the heater shell to also hold the pearls. Only issue is the bowl screen is most likely going to be 1/2" diameter, and the heater shell uses a 3/4" screen so I'm not sure how much it would change/affect air flow. Might sort of act like a section of "bamboo" from the Evo with the reduction/expansion. I do have a theory that extraction would actually improve with the all glass bowl...

Dang did you do a bowl before and hold your breath and do another in that vid? Crazy. Release the Kraken!

that's a good idea!

WTF! Mind blown.

I admit it even surprised me! when I was watching the playback I immediately thought, "this is definitely going on FC"

Do you know if an ELB would fit into the 18mm joint?

Im curious if getting the flower closer to the heat would make it better?

I like both the off the shelf, and custom bowl, but just throwing some other thoughts/possibilities out there.

I don't see why an ELB wouldn't work, it's a standard sized "18mm" joint (technically 19/22)

Closer to the heat source is generally good, as long as you can get even roasting!

These glass vapes all have the same issue there, the standard size lab joints add default distance that is tricky to get around.

 

[Dubmonkey]

I don't see why an ELB wouldn't work, it's a standard sized "18mm" joint (technically 19/22)

Closer to the heat source is generally good, as long as you can get even roasting!

These glass vapes all have the same issue there, the standard size lab joints add default distance that is tricky to get around.

maybe cutting down the length of the male joint and then moving the screen closer up to the now cut down male joint.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

maybe cutting down the length of the male joint and then moving the screen closer up to the now cut down male joint.

I was just about to propose that. I have cut to 19/10 the joint on one of my GlassBalls-logvapes and jammed a 20mm screen at the bottom of the female grind of the bowl.Big plus is that it would work with any bowl with the right joint size. Just like the vapocane and cup screen .I have always wondered why did they do that only to find it gives one of most even vaporizations ever.I might also consider that for the bowls of the female jointed ones. That bamboo thingie on the back ,i basicly evened the glass to the bamboo edge.

Now it looks like this one . https://www.planetvape.ca/phdfs-rbt-mouthpieces.html

 

[invertedisdead]

maybe cutting down the length of the male joint and then moving the screen closer up to the now cut down male joint.

If I cut the joint down it should widen up the spread of the airflow and might allow me to use the same glass screen to hold the pearls and the herb load.

Keep in mind this glass screen will possibly cost more than the whole vape. It's kinda high tech, so depending on manufacturing costs I might just save that for InV2: the next generation of desktop vapes

A big goal of this project is to keep prices really reasonable for everybody, it's currently on track for that goal, which is awesome!

But I also really want to experiment with what's possible when cutting edge methods and materials are employed, cause I think some really epic results could be achieved

I was just about to propose that. I have cut to 19/10 the joint on one of my GlassBalls-logvapes and jammed a 20mm screen at the bottom of the female grind of the bowl.Big plus is that it would work with any bowl with the right joint size. Just like the vapocane and cup screen .I have always wondered why did they do that only to find it gives one of most even vaporizations ever.I might also consider that for the bowls of the female jointed ones. That bamboo thingie on the back ,i basicly evened the glass to the bamboo edge.

Now it looks like this one . https://www.planetvape.ca/phdfs-rbt-mouthpieces.html

Nice stuff @Abysmal Vapor
Did cutting the joint even out the AVB for your GBL? Probably allows for loading larger bowls, too.
Does it "seat" well in the female joint/bowl after being cut in half? My original design of InV2 sitting on the wall next to me was designed around a 19/10 joint; interestingly that size shows up in lab glass joint charts, but I couldn't find anybody who was actually selling them. I did find a vendor with 14/10 though which was kind of interesting.

Cheers and thanks for stopping by

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Did cutting the joint even out the AVB for your GBL? Probably allows for loading larger bowls, too.
Does it "seat" well in the female joint/bowl after being cut in half? My original design of InV2 sitting on the wall next to me was designed around a 19/10 joint; interestingly that size shows up in lab glass joint charts, but I couldn't find anybody who was actually selling them. I did find a vendor with 14/10 though which was kind of interesting.
Cheers and thanks for stopping by

Well I must admit that i had pretty even abv with the short Simax 14 to 19 adapter but this makes the 95 to 99% .
Yeah i have also 14/10 designs,but it is easier for me to cut 14/23 to size,cause also saw them sold at couple of places,but shipping to my country is unreasonably expensive,i would have to look up for some in the US to resend them to me,cause i dont feel like paying 80 bucks for shipping alone.
It doesnt wobble even one bit comapared to full length joints.
I also started using a cup screen to hold my balls,it really made the previous one obsolete. You just gotta make sure to squeeze them a bit so they can hold tight. There is a company that makes customs ones around he ,but are like 2 euro a piece,i am think of ordering a batch with coarser mesh,the arizer cup screens are bit too weak for me.I am thinking 17mm will be ideal, compared to 16mm for the arizer as OD.That cup narrows the airflow a bit compared to a standart round screen.You can see on the PV stem hot there is place for a larger rim.