Phase3 Vaporizers

[Dargin B]

Since I shelved my flowerpot after my third burn (I'm clumsy!) I vote for a LOG! Typically I load .2-.3 per bowl. So fun watching the progress @invertedisdead !

 

[Farid]

In an ideal scenario, not taking into account current design limitations, what kind of grind would you like to use, and what kind of flow would you like in the herb chamber? Obviously the flow through the beads will be turbulent, but are you seeking to have the flow even out and be laminar by the time it hits the herb chamber? Or were you hoping to have turbulent flow in the herb chamber, which could have a "mixing" effect, tossing the bud around in an un-tamped bowl?

Many pages back you mentioned disliking grinding, and wanting to potentially be able to use whole buds or coarsely broken buds? I also remember you mentioning a preference for a wider bowl, versus a taller, narrower bowl, is that still the case?

And of these factors (along with the desire for a glass herb screen and glass bead retention) do you have a priority of which are most important to you? I ask because I think there will be some give and take in prioritizing certain of these desires.

If I understand correctly, your primary goals are for excellent flavor, and minimalist design, but I wasn't sure how you prioritize these other factors.

 

[invertedisdead]

The straight glass adapter for the Alpha fits perfectly into a stempod.
Does not sit deeper, closer to the heater.
The only difference is one is tapered and one is straight.
There is a significant improvement in performance with the straight wall piece.
I have seen this across a few vapes now so maybe lose any taper at all if possible?

I've been tinkering with a few different bowl ideas based on this, but it's kind of hard to tell for sure based on parts laying around. I might order a couple test parts and see how they do.

Since I shelved my flowerpot after my third burn (I'm clumsy!) I vote for a LOG! Typically I load .2-.3 per bowl. So fun watching the progress @invertedisdead !

Thank for chiming in my dude! Appreciate you stopping by!

In an ideal scenario, not taking into account current design limitations, what kind of grind would you like to use, and what kind of flow would you like in the herb chamber? Obviously the flow through the beads will be turbulent, but are you seeking to have the flow even out and be laminar by the time it hits the herb chamber? Or were you hoping to have turbulent flow in the herb chamber, which could have a "mixing" effect, tossing the bud around in an un-tamped bowl?

Many pages back you mentioned disliking grinding, and wanting to potentially be able to use whole buds or coarsely broken buds? I also remember you mentioning a preference for a wider bowl, versus a taller, narrower bowl, is that still the case?

And of these factors (along with the desire for a glass herb screen and glass bead retention) do you have a priority of which are most important to you? I ask because I think there will be some give and take in prioritizing certain of these desires.

If I understand correctly, your primary goals are for excellent flavor, and minimalist design, but I wasn't sure how you prioritize these other factors.

I like these questions, now we're really talking vapor!

Yeah in my opinion ideally there would be no grinding, but that's a tricky one to nail, especially with a glass centric design. If I recall correctly the HerbalAire was kinda famous for unground vaping. Supreme as well, though that vape gets a solid dose of added conduction in the stock configuration. The tall, narrow bowl from the Supreme is pretty unique amongst convection heavy hitters. I tend to think of wider, shallower bowls making sense for quick extraction - sort of like the baking time of a pita versus a rustic sourdough boule. I kind of like the idea of forcing all the air through a narrow path like the Supreme does though, especially for unground - I feel like unground in many vapes with wider bowls causes most of the air to just go around the herb like an airplane wing.

I think some amount of stirring effect could be helpful (like the fan in a convection oven mixing the air) but I think once it gets to air tossing the bud around its maybe too much. With the current version, since it doesn't seat into the joint, you can "crack" the seal briefly and it will turbulently stir the load but it can get herb crumbs on the Quartz, inside of the heater exit section. The self stirring is one of those things that seems like a good idea but based on the number of modifications to get away from the Cyclone bowl on the EQ I don't think it works as well in practice. Same with the Volcano solid valve, always worked better to me to tamp the load with the sliding screen.

Also, all that said about no grinding - IMO pretty much every vape I've ever used works better with a fine grind. Especially for rapid extraction.

I would say glass bead retention is more important to me right now than the glass herb screen, though that's still a goal of mine as I like the idea of a fixed screen. I polled the room earlier in the thread and most people didn't seem that interested in a glass screen and I can understand why as most people are used to ones where crumbs fall through, so it would either need a finer hole grid, but if the vape had the dynamics to vaporize intensely without grinding, then a complex glass bowl wouldn't be needed. Tricky part of glass bead retention is the loading and securing part, honestly my original design has still been hard to top in that regard - on the earlier version with the air inlet arm I was able to roll a screen up like a cannoli and that was a super simple way of loading and retaining the beads. Yeah the screen is metal but it's not really heated in that configuration. A glass bottom-screen is still on my wish list since that is the hottest part of the airstream, also the safety factor goes up a lot in my opinion with the built in screen since the housing would have to break to have a bead accident. These were all key features of the InVerzion vaporizer versus other bead vapes, so I'd really like to add them back. I might have to see if I can revision that original design based on everything I've learned and see if I can figure out a few stopping blocks. One issue with the original coil arm air inlet design is the attachment affects concentricity, which is super important with these stiff e-nail coils.

I would say the goals for this one are Form, Function, & Flavor. The simpler the better to me, I'm a big believer in KISS; also simplicity helps a lot for consistency in glass parts. That's what I find intriguing about glass designs is its kind of complicated what you can actually do, a limited canvas in some ways, but I like the way it gets the gears grinding upstairs!

 

[invertedisdead]

Hmmmmmmmmm

​

 

[nonamekevin]

Hmmmmmmmmm

​

Are you still using the arm as an air intake, or are the 4 holes on top the intake now? Or both are intakes?

Stay up homie.

 

[invertedisdead]

Are you still using the arm as an air intake, or are the 4 holes on top the intake now? Or both are intakes?

Stay up homie.

Cheers my dude!
In wanting to go back to some sort of glass screen, or glass retainment system, a challenge has been how to add the terp pearls. In this rendering I was thinking why not just make the inlet holes on top large enough to load them in the body that way? The air outlet slits would be sized to retain them. The only time this vape gets turned upside down is to check if the bottom screen has moved; if that issue was eliminated with a fixed screen, I don't think it would really get flipped over. Also, the horizontal air outlets should vortex the air for a more even convection roast, word to some of the OG heavy hitters which came before me!

 

[Hippie]

I would ask them to make it with the fixed screen at the bottom and a removable screen/lid on the top with catches that lock it to the main body somehow. And a hook on the handle so you can hook the coil handle on there.

Are you finding round holes an issue in the lower screen?
I get balls nestling in the holes and blocking them up when I've used glass screens with round holes in my builds.

 

[nonamekevin]

Cheers my dude!
In wanting to go back to some sort of glass screen, or glass retainment system, a challenge has been how to add the terp pearls. In this rendering I was thinking why not just make the inlet holes on top large enough to load them in the body that way? The air outlet slits would be sized to retain them. The only time this vape gets turned upside down is to check if the bottom screen has moved; if that issue was eliminated with a fixed screen, I don't think it would really get flipped over. Also, the horizontal air outlets should vortex the air for a more even convection roast, word to some of the OG heavy hitters which came before me!

The air outlet slits are interesting. I'm probably not understanding them correctly, but it looks like once the vape sits inside of the joint, the horizontal slits will be blocked off by the joint itself. I'm struggling to understand how air exits the slits and helps create a vortex once the piece is in the joint.

You mentioned it before in a post, but what's super cool is that you have found someone who can/will do some cnc on glass. That's huge, and I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with with that kind of ability to keep tight tolerances.

 

[arb]

Curiosity got me and it seems machining quartz takes the same tools and knowledge as machining steel.
Just takes diamond bits and a water drip.
You can literally use a drill press and milk jug with a gravity fed cooling system.
You can just get the basic shape as blanks then just make them shits the right way yourself.
Gonna have to bring all that in house homie....... the only way to assure QC.

 

[Farid]

I think the side air outlets is a really excellent idea. Especially if the user is able to change the angle at which the heater sits in herb housing while hitting it, further contributing to the turbulence where the hot air hits the herb.

One of the reasons I think turbulent flow may be beneficial here is to reduce hot spotting in the middle of the load. With laminar flow the air in the center of the pipe has the highest velocity, and there is a continuous gradient from the boundary layer at the pipe wall (where the velocity is zero) to the center. If you draw a velocity profile of the laminar flow, the shape is parabolic (as shown in the attached figure). With turbulent flow on the other hand, the various velocities average out, making the velocity profile more of a U or bracket shape. The velocity at the wall is still zero because of the no slip boundary condition, but in the middle and approaching the boundary layer, the velocities average out, resulting in a more even velocity throughout most of the pipe.

Now the effect of how the weed is packed complicates this significantly. With a fine tamped grind there is some resistance imparted by the herb, and the air is forced through finer channels in the herb. But if you want to keep the herb coarsely ground, while also avoiding hot spotting, I have a feeling (and I could be totally wrong here) that the trick may be to encourage turbulent flow between the heater and the herb.

The side air outlets also will help prevent any bud fragments that happen to get blown around from getting into the heater.

 

[invertedisdead]

I would ask them to make it with the fixed screen at the bottom and a removable screen/lid on the top with catches that lock it to the main body somehow. And a hook on the handle so you can hook the coil handle on there.

Are you finding round holes an issue in the lower screen?
I get balls nestling in the holes and blocking them up when I've used glass screens with round holes in my builds.

What kind of fastening mechanism were you thinking to secure the top? Peg and hole?
I've been using the 710coils clips to wrap around the arm and hold the coil; but I recently found that alternatively, you can stick the coil arm through the hole in the O-ring, and the clips will secure the coil. Though I don't notice much of a difference between those two.

My concern with removable parts is I fear it could get very cost prohibitive unless it was a relatively simple solution. I'd have to get some quotes even on the design above as it could be cost prohibitive as well.

Though I wonder, perhaps I've spent too much time trying to deduce this design down to something more affordable, trying to build McLarens at Mustang prices.

Right now I'm retaining the pearls using the lid from a Mighty dosing capsule (cringe!) with a 100 micron SS screen below that which is just large enough to wrap around the sidewalls of the capsule lid. The extra ridgity of the capsule lid puts tension on the screen and does a relatively good job of holding both in place against the quartz. And I haven't noticed pearls blocking these holes, I think they are ~1mm holes on these lids. What type of glass screens have you used, were they a honeycomb style?

The air outlet slits are interesting. I'm probably not understanding them correctly, but it looks like once the vape sits inside of the joint, the horizontal slits will be blocked off by the joint itself. I'm struggling to understand how air exits the slits and helps create a vortex once the piece is in the joint.

You mentioned it before in a post, but what's super cool is that you have found someone who can/will do some cnc on glass. That's huge, and I'm looking forward to seeing what you come up with with that kind of ability to keep tight tolerances.

I figured somebody might point that out, so what I was thinking is if you increase the angle of the taper a bit more than the standard 1:10 on a typical glass joint, it should give you the space necessary for outward flow. I notice when using tapered components in these joints as long as the taper is wide enough to block the airflow at some point in the taper, it seems to works relatively fine. The entire taper doesn't seem to need to match eachother since we aren't refluxing chemicals or something, so the seal is less critical. Currently the top down airflow seems to not really expand wider than the diameter of the air outlet itself. By switching to a side outlet, I'm thinking that would force the airflow to span the full bowl better, and that "spotlighting" effect should be gone since the air would not be coming straight down like the current path of least resistance.

As far as the vortexing, my understanding of fluid dynamics is fairly basic and something I need to dedicate more time to, but other well regarded vaporizers which came before me use similar side outlets claiming it spins the air. Interestingly, I notice these heater designs which also sit inside the bowl like mine, are the same ones that tend to use some sort of this vortexing component. In theory I can see it making sense that a more gentle top down flow could reduce chances of hotspotting.

Curiosity got me and it seems machining quartz takes the same tools and knowledge as machining steel.
Just takes diamond bits and a water drip.
You can literally use a drill press and milk jug with a gravity fed cooling system.
You can just get the basic shape as blanks then just make them shits the right way yourself.
Gonna have to bring all that in house homie....... the only way to assure QC.

You can skip the diamond bits with a laser!

I think the side air outlets is a really excellent idea. Especially if the user is able to change the angle at which the heater sits in herb housing while hitting it, further contributing to the turbulence where the hot air hits the herb.

One of the reasons I think turbulent flow may be beneficial here is to reduce hot spotting in the middle of the load. With laminar flow the air in the center of the pipe has the highest velocity, and there is a continuous gradient from the boundary layer at the pipe wall (where the velocity is zero) to the center. If you draw a velocity profile of the laminar flow, the shape is parabolic (as shown in the attached figure). With turbulent flow on the other hand, the various velocities average out, making the velocity profile more of a U or bracket shape. The velocity at the wall is still zero because of the no slip boundary condition, but in the middle and approaching the boundary layer, the velocities average out, resulting in a more even velocity throughout most of the pipe.

Now the effect of how the weed is packed complicates this significantly. With a fine tamped grind there is some resistance imparted by the herb, and the air is forced through finer channels in the herb. But if you want to keep the herb coarsely ground, while also avoiding hot spotting, I have a feeling (and I could be totally wrong here) that the trick may be to encourage turbulent flow between the heater and the herb.

The side air outlets also will help prevent any bud fragments that happen to get blown around from getting into the heater.

What I notice on my current prototype is the flow just doesn't really expand once hot air exits the outlet. Previously I had thought the hot air traveling the full length of the joint simply needed more "time" to expand, but with my latest version which just sits on top of the joint has has basically the full length to expand, it seemingly doesn't. If the temp is set high enough to hot spot, or "spotlight," I notice the hot spot is basically identical in size to the diameter of the air oulet. For some real basic fluid dynamics lessons, I went to the sink, turned on the faucet, and watched the water run through it. Same observations, the flow never expanded further than the diameter of the nozzle.

I agree that it seems like, (at least in my head) that the side outlets would help create a convective flow (crashing against the sidewalls of the bowl and spinning the air?) which should be a less "directed" flow than the current laminar exit. In my head that's what it would do, but I need to study more CFD.

I like your point about side outlets preventing crumbs blowing inside the exit, I hadn't considered that! What I like about the side outlets is it seems (at least on paper) to do the job of retaining the pearls, without being so complicated to machine as some of my other considerations.


What do you think about loading pearls in through the top inlet holes? It's so simple, I can't quite tell if that's brilliant or awful. On one hand I'm thinking, if they are packed in good enough, will they even align with the holes to fall out, or really move around, even if it was turned upside down? Some of these things come out quite different in real life, versus on paper
Potentially could be designed so they could only even be loaded through one hole with the appropriate diameter.

Appreciate EVERYONE chiming in and joining in the discussion!!

 

[Farid]

I think one inlet hole being just big enough to fit the beads with the others being barely smaller would be great. It'll be unlikely that the balls would align with that one hole if turned upside down, and I think it will be rare for users to turn the device upside down any way. On the off chance a ball does fall out it will just be one ball and not several.

My guess is with your latest version, which just sits on top of the joint, that the tiny bit of cool air that enters from that joint is enough flow from the side to cause turbulence. Do you notice less spotlighting with this latest version than with pervious ones in which the joint was tighter?

 

[The Chemist]

I think having only one hole big enough for the pearls would be ideal, this way even if the pearls can get out it's only gonna be a couple of them, you won't dump all of them at the same time.

Also I don't remember ever turning a desktop vape upside down when I'm vaping. If I do some cleaning and moving stuff around on the table maybe, but never when the vape is hot. So in this case if some pearls can get out it will be when they are cold so less potential for disaster..

I don't know if having a hole bigger than the other will change something about the balance of air flow, if that's the case maybe make the other three holes barely smaller than the pearls could help.

 

[Farid]

All it will take is a fraction of a mm to stop the beads from falling out of the other holes, which shouldn't have any noticeable effect on the airflow. Especially since the air will be traveling through the beads after that, mixing that incoming air up.

 

[Cheebsy]

I was wondering if that taper was a different dimension, I completely understand now, the drawing confused me slightly.

Can you use a previous prototype to test the filing through one hole idea? Assuming that quartz can be drilled with a Dremel and a diamond bit that would be easy to test. I'd like to think that might work really really well almost all the time. It reminds me of those computer crowd simulations of people trying to get out of a room with one door.

Also, have you thought about using ground glass tapers for the lid latching? I don't know if the heat would still allow but twisting and pushing tapers together locks them pretty tightly, it wouldn't for with many knocks though before it loosened up.

 

[arb]

What kind of fastening mechanism were you thinking to secure the top? Peg and hole?
I've been using the 710coils clips to wrap around the arm and hold the coil; but I recently found that alternatively, you can stick the coil arm through the hole in the O-ring, and the clips will secure the coil. Though I don't notice much of a difference between those two.

My concern with removable parts is I fear it could get very cost prohibitive unless it was a relatively simple solution. I'd have to get some quotes even on the design above as it could be cost prohibitive as well.

Though I wonder, perhaps I've spent too much time trying to deduce this design down to something more affordable, trying to build McLarens at Mustang prices.

Right now I'm retaining the pearls using the lid from a Mighty dosing capsule (cringe!) with a 100 micron SS screen below that which is just large enough to wrap around the sidewalls of the capsule lid. The extra ridgity of the capsule lid puts tension on the screen and does a relatively good job of holding both in place against the quartz. And I haven't noticed pearls blocking these holes, I think they are ~1mm holes on these lids. What type of glass screens have you used, were they a honeycomb style?



I figured somebody might point that out, so what I was thinking is if you increase the angle of the taper a bit more than the standard 1:10 on a typical glass joint, it should give you the space necessary for outward flow. I notice when using tapered components in these joints as long as the taper is wide enough to block the airflow at some point in the taper, it seems to works relatively fine. The entire taper doesn't seem to need to match eachother since we aren't refluxing chemicals or something, so the seal is less critical. Currently the top down airflow seems to not really expand wider than the diameter of the air outlet itself. By switching to a side outlet, I'm thinking that would force the airflow to span the full bowl better, and that "spotlighting" effect should be gone since the air would not be coming straight down like the current path of least resistance.

As far as the vortexing, my understanding of fluid dynamics is fairly basic and something I need to dedicate more time to, but other well regarded vaporizers which came before me use similar side outlets claiming it spins the air. Interestingly, I notice these heater designs which also sit inside the bowl like mine, are the same ones that tend to use some sort of this vortexing component. In theory I can see it making sense that a more gentle top down flow could reduce chances of hotspotting.



You can skip the diamond bits with a laser!

What I notice on my current prototype is the flow just doesn't really expand once hot air exits the outlet. Previously I had thought the hot air traveling the full length of the joint simply needed more "time" to expand, but with my latest version which just sits on top of the joint has has basically the full length to expand, it seemingly doesn't. If the temp is set high enough to hot spot, or "spotlight," I notice the hot spot is basically identical in size to the diameter of the air oulet. For some real basic fluid dynamics lessons, I went to the sink, turned on the faucet, and watched the water run through it. Same observations, the flow never expanded further than the diameter of the nozzle.

I agree that it seems like, (at least in my head) that the side outlets would help create a convective flow (crashing against the sidewalls of the bowl and spinning the air?) which should be a less "directed" flow than the current laminar exit. In my head that's what it would do, but I need to study more CFD.

I like your point about side outlets preventing crumbs blowing inside the exit, I hadn't considered that! What I like about the side outlets is it seems (at least on paper) to do the job of retaining the pearls, without being so complicated to machine as some of my other considerations.


What do you think about loading pearls in through the top inlet holes? It's so simple, I can't quite tell if that's brilliant or awful. On one hand I'm thinking, if they are packed in good enough, will they even align with the holes to fall out, or really move around, even if it was turned upside down? Some of these things come out quite different in real life, versus on paper
Potentially could be designed so they could only even be loaded through one hole with the appropriate diameter.

Appreciate EVERYONE chiming in and joining in the discussion!!

Now you're just being silly..............Dr. Evil is retired.

 

[Vaporware]

I like the ideas above overall, but a few notes:

1. With all of the airflow coming out on the sides a lot of it may hit the cold walls of the bowl before it gets to the flower. If they could be angled in a little that might help.

2. Depending on the shape of the bowl, I’m afraid too much or the hot air may pass down the sides creating a relatively cold spot in the middle. It could be fine though, I’m just not sure. If you have access to fluid dynamics simulations you might want to check it out that way.

3. I could be missing something, and I do think that the side holes would mix the air up a bit, but it seems to me that getting the air actually spinning more laterally would probably require holes that were angled or varying in size. Something to force the air to move to the side instead of mostly just down.

4. I have a *little* concern about leaving one hole large enough for loading. I think it’ll work and there’s not much chance of something falling out, but who’s taking that chance makes a difference.

I doubt anyone commenting in this thread is going to fling hot balls across the room, but there are people who would find a way to do it.

If you were marketing it to a wider audience I’d probably do the loading hole as its own thing and provide an optional metal plug or something to make sure they can’t get out. For us though, it should work either way.

 

[Hippie]

You could make a circular top with 2, 3 or 4 tabs protruding from the outer edge and a matching number of tabs in the body so you drop it in and twist to lock in it place.

There's no shame in using mighty capsule lids at this point, I use Arizer dome screens in a similar way (reshaped round a 14mm joint)
I can't find the glass screens again at the moment (will keep looking for ya tho). I think they were called fritt discs altho they aren't actually fritted, they're more like a 9mm honeycomb disc with 4 or 5 round holes in (much like the fixed glass screen in Arizer stems)

The more I think about it the more I like the side slots for the extra diffusion they'll add (kinda like the Herbo). I really like the idea of angling them or shaping them to create a vortex effect. May need a bowl that open out a little after the joint, like the Herbo bowl for it to work tho.

 

[kimura]

I’m not sure if this is still useful feedback, but the boro balls I use in the Elev8r can fall out if I tip the thing over. Hasn’t been an issue for me and I consider it a cost of doing business.

I am selfishly hoping for a device that does not compromise performance for anything. Including safety (within reason)

I’m not sure how many beginners would be looking at a coil driven herb vape anyway, but I could be out of touch

 

[arb]

Shit man..........Mrs.arb is using a e43 and loving it so far.
She is very shy and not usually into anything "dangerous" but only had mild reservations about it........perhaps due to the diminutive size.
I was quite surprised to say the least.

 

[invertedisdead]

I am selfishly hoping for a device that does not compromise performance for anything. Including safety (within reason)

I’m with you there! It has to be better than other stuff or I won’t bother. For pure performance, my torch powered SCVW is still hard to beat. The desktop is close but the SCVW milks harder. But the desktop only needs the flick of a switch to use so it is easier.

I just got the Mini version running again a few days ago thanks to some new glass bowls for it. Even have it going through a 10mm mini rig

Shit man..........Mrs.arb is using a e43 and loving it so far.
She is very shy and not usually into anything "dangerous" but only had mild reservations about it........perhaps due to the diminutive size.
I was quite surprised to say the least.

That’s the all glass smoothness! Wish I had a few coils on hand as I have a couple glass bodies.

 

[DRCousCous]

his thread is going to fling hot balls across the room, but there are people who would find a way to do it.

I don't know, I'd love something like this, and I can get pretty spastic! Seriously I'd find a way to eject a hot bead into my lap, or something. Part of my condition. It's one of the reasons these kinds of coil designs have scared me a bit: seem like a good way to hurt myself. Which is unfortunate, because I think it is exactly the kind of vape I'd most like to use. I love my DiTanium, but I'd love something heavy hitting with an all-glass/jewel/ceramic airpath.

 

[invertedisdead]

Been playing with a Tafee Bowle a kind member has let me test out, needed a change of pace and pulled out my SCVW Mini last night, about 30s of torching to reach nirvana! So good I had to do another small bowl immediately after just to make sure. Anddddddddd out like a light before 8PM. In my opinion it's one of the stoniest signatures of any vaporizer I have tried.

Also, the SCVW has "diplomatic immunity" when it comes to "vape mail"
Just in case.

I don't have any updates right now on the desktop. The $xxxx laying around here in what I consider "unsellable" parts has, in some regards; killed my buzz. The quest for da best desk (top) vaporizer will go on, assuredly, but presently, my finances are pretty tied up with my main biz. In hindsight, I probably should have started selling the first InVerzion vaporizer that I posted on page one of this thread, to open the road up both ways. That would have made it easier to fund further R&D, with the preface that I've always been just a guy in an apartment on a passion project. That said, my estimations were fine until I switched over from boro to quartz, of which the cost to prototype and manufacture has been drastically higher, which I didn't really anticipate. Sure, I expected higher costs, but I'm talking many times over.

I think if I was really smart, I would have just sold ruby pearls to people to put in their current vapes lol.

Anyways, I'm not sure what even spawned this rant outside of excessive vapor intake lol. Not broke, just bent. The great desktop race shall go on, but it will take some "recalibration."

In the meantime, I might have to start designing artisan coffee cup attachments, or something.

 

[Cheebsy]

It sucks that there are some barriers currently, but keep your head up man, you will get there eventually. It's still not too late to sell something that can help fund the dream InVerzion eventually. I'm pretty sure I'd buy your SCVW given an opportunity

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Been playing with a Tafee Bowle a kind member has let me test out, needed a change of pace and pulled out my SCVW Mini last night, about 30s of torching to reach nirvana! So good I had to do another small bowl immediately after just to make sure. Anddddddddd out like a light before 8PM. In my opinion it's one of the stoniest signatures of any vaporizer I have tried.

Also, the SCVW has "diplomatic immunity" when it comes to "vape mail"
Just in case.

I don't have any updates right now on the desktop. The $xxxx laying around here in what I consider "unsellable" parts has, in some regards; killed my buzz. The quest for da best desk (top) vaporizer will go on, assuredly, but presently, my finances are pretty tied up with my main biz. In hindsight, I probably should have started selling the first InVerzion vaporizer that I posted on page one of this thread, to open the road up both ways. That would have made it easier to fund further R&D, with the preface that I've always been just a guy in an apartment on a passion project. That said, my estimations were fine until I switched over from boro to quartz, of which the cost to prototype and manufacture has been drastically higher, which I didn't really anticipate. Sure, I expected higher costs, but I'm talking many times over.

I think if I was really smart, I would have just sold ruby pearls to people to put in their current vapes lol.

Anyways, I'm not sure what even spawned this rant outside of excessive vapor intake lol. Not broke, just bent. The great desktop race shall go on, but it will take some "recalibration."

In the meantime, I might have to start designing artisan coffee cup attachments, or something.

Do you have any pics of the Flame powered vaporizer ? Is it something like a vapocane or gn0me ?