Phase3 Vaporizers

[Haze Mister]

I really don't get how there is still no coil with a built-in heat shield available. I refuse to use a bare coil as I get medicated late at light and burns on myself and surrounding furniture / carpets would be inevitable. A simple piece of steel mesh cut and folded into the right shape and attached to the coil arm would be so easy.

Also, the elev8r is ugly, looks like some kind of deformed leftover from a glass blower workshop

 

[Vapefanatic]

I really don't get how there is still no coil with a built-in heat shield available. I refuse to use a bare coil as I get medicated late at light and burns on myself and surrounding furniture / carpets would be inevitable. A simple piece of steel mesh cut and folded into the right shape and attached to the coil arm would be so easy.

Also, the elev8r is ugly, looks like some kind of deformed leftover from a glass blower workshop

I was thinking the same. I keep imagining a globe shape mesh around the coil, with holes top and bottom.

 

[invertedisdead]

and one one the forehead......leaned into it on a piece.

now that’s buzzed out!

Put the Alpha on the same piece and it is much better on every way except flavor.
The flavor is better through the elev8r but not by enough to make it a daily for me.

I am still super down to try one of them there Alphas you’ve been hoarding!

I really don't get how there is still no coil with a built-in heat shield available. I refuse to use a bare coil as I get medicated late at light and burns on myself and surrounding furniture / carpets would be inevitable. A simple piece of steel mesh cut and folded into the right shape and attached to the coil arm would be so easy.

Also, the elev8r is ugly, looks like some kind of deformed leftover from a glass blower workshop

I just don’t know how to build a heat shield without it looking bad and messing with the small form factor.

I did post a CAD drawing some number of pages back of a concept with a built in coil shroud, but you probably still wouldn’t want to touch it. It was the one with a Rolex bezel looking shroud, I thought it was kinda cool, but it didn’t seem to go over very well

But realistically I would rather turn it into a log then put a coil screen on it. Which could happen. Been thinking about it for a while.
I’m not really convinced on VVPS though; If I did a log I think I’d want to do something different from everyone else and keep a thermocouple in the heating element for pairing with a PID controller.

Many nights I just leave it turned on, then if I wake up with back pain I can crush a quick bowl, crank the heating pad, and try and get back to sleep.

 

[arb]

now that’s buzzed out!




I am still super down to try one of them there Alphas you’ve been hoarding!


I just don’t know how to build a heat shield without it looking bad and messing with the small form factor.

I did post a CAD drawing some number of pages back of a concept with a built in coil shroud, but you probably still wouldn’t want to touch it. It was the one with a Rolex bezel looking shroud, I thought it was kinda cool, but it didn’t seem to go over very well

But realistically I would rather turn it into a log then put a coil screen on it. Which could happen. Been thinking about it for a while.
I’m not really convinced on VVPS though; If I did a log I think I’d want to do something different from everyone else and keep a thermocouple in the heating element for pairing with a PID controller.

Many nights I just leave it turned on, then if I wake up with back pain I can crush a quick bowl, crank the heating pad, and try and get back to sleep.

Hoardy McHoarderson........shit man not my fault Daves a victim of his own success.
Soon as he finishes the twig it will be heading your way.
I think a heat shield of some type is almost required for the masses cuz of tards like myself and wood is a excellent choice........or is it?
I don't know but I love me some logs so do that.

 

[Farid]

A heat shield would be cool (no pun intended), but I don't think it's a necessity. Enails have been popular for a while, and few of those use a shield.

One of the things that really stands out and appeals to me about this design is the minimalism, and the potential to make a very cost effective version. Adding accessories drives up the manufacturing costs tremendously, especially at this stage of development.

 

[Vaporware]

A heat shield was a big concern for me when I first ordered a FlowerPot. I started trying to design one before my order even came in! I still think it would be a good idea and helpful for a lot of people, but I’m a lot less worried about it for myself than I was at first. Still, I’ve come close enough to a real burn that I try to be very careful about where I set it up...

Even with a shield people could still burn themselves with the bottom, but having 4-5 out of 6 faces covered would save some burns...I’m guessing a lot of people just didn’t get what you were showing when you posted one before, so I wouldn’t take the low reaction level as an indication that no one’s interested.

On the other hand, NewVape has never sold one (even when some of us asked) and people are still buying FlowerPots.

 

[invertedisdead]

Hoardy McHoarderson........shit man not my fault Daves a victim of his own success.
Soon as he finishes the twig it will be heading your way.
I think a heat shield of some type is almost required for the masses cuz of tards like myself and wood is a excellent choice........or is it?
I don't know but I love me some logs so do that.

The funny thing is I’ve been fiddling with a log concept “of sorts” for around 9 months, snuck into a few videos I’ve posted in this thread. But it’s pretty different from what people would probably think of when they hear log. What can I say, I’m inverting everything!

A heat shield would be cool (no pun intended), but I don't think it's a necessity. Enails have been popular for a while, and few of those use a shield.

One of the things that really stands out and appeals to me about this design is the minimalism, and the potential to make a very cost effective version. Adding accessories drives up the manufacturing costs tremendously, especially at this stage of development.

Thank you!
I’m a huge fan of minimalist design and refinement. Im constantly trying to think of ways to make my vape ideas simpler and easier to build and/or use. Can’t say it always works out to being simpler or easier - but I’m trying

This newest one I feel really hits on the minimalist design philosophy.

A heat shield was a big concern for me when I first ordered a FlowerPot. I started trying to design one before my order even came in! I still think it would be a good idea and helpful for a lot of people, but I’m a lot less worried about it for myself than I was at first. Still, I’ve come close enough to a real burn that I try to be very careful about where I set it up...

Even with a shield people could still burn themselves with the bottom, but having 4-5 out of 6 faces covered would save some burns...I’m guessing a lot of people just didn’t get what you were showing when you posted one before, so I wouldn’t take the low reaction level as an indication that no one’s interested.

On the other hand, NewVape has never sold one (even when some of us asked) and people are still buying FlowerPots.

Yeah I agree, I think a challenge with a heat shield with this vape is it was designed to be really small, current version is less than 2 inches, more like 1.75” and I think as far as heat shields and similar it would probably be better to start with that as a focal point. I have been thinking about it for a while, I wanted to do a log with this vape, but I couldn’t really figure out a simple way to mount it. Also the enail coil was chosen for this because it’s simple, but it would be kind of clunky for a log, and I considered a resistance coil, which would actually be preferable in a few ways, but again, not in love with the VVPS, and I’m just so used to PID controllers are this point.

 

[nonamekevin]

What's good homie, glad to see the progress on the inverzion!

When we were talking about vape ideas, I was thinking about a coil cover idea that was made of like a ceramic/stoneware material. Imagine a small cup with a hole in the bottom large enough for the joint to slide through, but small enough that the coil makes contact. It would have an arm that would attach to the coil arm in the same manner as your current setup.

I think the benefits from the above would be:

1. Retaining heat, possibly being able to drop temps
2. A way to add a logo/brand/art/customized options
3. Offers some protection against the exposed hot coil

Some of the challenges with the above:

A. Adds weight/bulk to the setup. Not an increase in height, but width for sure.
B. Adds another piece to the manufacturing process (maybe an option for like a inverzion plus package?)

Hope you're doing well in 2021 brotha.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Latest stuff looks awesome. Clear joints FTW,looks so much better ). I have also managed to get a custom glasswork bespoke for my logvapes, waiting soon for the first batch,i wish i had more funds and time to dedicate to my project. Looks like your blower have made it a bit oversize,i actually dont mind it not getting locked into the socket,i would hate it getting stuck more.. I have experimented with increasing the gouge of the zirconium wire to 4mm diameter and cannot believe how much fire power it adds, your concept must be a real beast with that fat enail coil ).. Mass of the heater is very important. Another thing i have on the list is trying ball socket connections like the vriptech,but those are crazy expensive compared to regular cone shaped connections.
Also i have an idea for a glass screen,instead of honey comb to use a turbine perc/tornado perc , but until it is tried i cant say if it is going to be any better. Maybe if the grind is not too fine it would work. Even with a metal screen above to prevent clogs,it might solve hot spot/airflow issues for some vapes,cause it will distribute the flow to the sides instead of tunneling at the center.
On a sidenote, If you figure out a way to add the balls and still have an in-built glass screen in your vape, this one might add air turbulence like the D-nail lotus,which might not be a 100% great thing cause shit is gonna start flying in the bowl.

 

[invertedisdead]

What's good homie, glad to see the progress on the inverzion!

When we were talking about vape ideas, I was thinking about a coil cover idea that was made of like a ceramic/stoneware material. Imagine a small cup with a hole in the bottom large enough for the joint to slide through, but small enough that the coil makes contact. It would have an arm that would attach to the coil arm in the same manner as your current setup.

I think the benefits from the above would be:

1. Retaining heat, possibly being able to drop temps
2. A way to add a logo/brand/art/customized options
3. Offers some protection against the exposed hot coil

Some of the challenges with the above:

A. Adds weight/bulk to the setup. Not an increase in height, but width for sure.
B. Adds another piece to the manufacturing process (maybe an option for like a inverzion plus package?)

Hope you're doing well in 2021 brotha.

Cheers my friend!!! Glad to see you stopping by, and I appreciate the input and the well wishes. Hoping you're on a good vibe as well my dude!
I like the approach, I think my only reservation with something like this cover is if the coil was physically touching it, or even just absorbing radiant heat, do you think it would still get too hot to touch? I just wouldn't want to give people the wrong idea if it could still cause a burn, albeit less of one - I guess in some ways I viewed the exposed coil as somewhat of a warning sign that the device gets hot - sort of like how people tend to act safer when handling something they might perceive as less safe. Not that I consider this vape unsafe, to be honest I think beads falling out is a more likely scare than a coil issue. That's what I really liked about my first design with the glass "turbine" screen is it solved (almost) all the problems I had already identified with the platform. Would really like to figure that part out again.

Latest stuff looks awesome. Clear joints FTW,looks so much better ). I have also managed to get a custom glasswork bespoke for my logvapes, waiting soon for the first batch,i wish i had more funds and time to dedicate to my project. Looks like your blower have made it a bit oversize,i actually dont mind it not getting locked into the socket,i would hate it getting stuck more.. I have experimented with increasing the gouge of the zirconium wire to 4mm diameter and cannot believe how much fire power it adds, your concept must be a real beast with that fat enail coil ).. Mass of the heater is very important. Another thing i have on the list is trying ball socket connections like the vriptech,but those are crazy expensive compared to regular cone shaped connections.
Also i have an idea for a glass screen,instead of honey comb to use a turbine perc/tornado perc , but until it is tried i cant say if it is going to be any better. Maybe if the grind is not too fine it would work. Even with a metal screen above to prevent clogs,it might solve hot spot/airflow issues for some vapes,cause it will distribute the flow to the sides instead of tunneling at the center.
On a sidenote, If you figure out a way to add the balls and still have an in-built glass screen in your vape, this one might add air turbulence like the D-nail lotus,which might not be a 100% great thing cause shit is gonna start flying in the bowl.
View attachment 5474View attachment 5475

Thank you!! That means a lot coming from a FCOG and experienced vape tinkerer such as yourself!
Very cool to hear you had some custom glass comissioned, I hope to hear more about it!!

Regarding the oversized taper I did find an issue - normally the 19mm joint is formed on 16mm tubing - by tapering 20mm tubing down to a 19mm joint it creates a thicker internal diameter, which seems to still give me a bit of a "spotlight" / hot spot issue. I think since this oversized tapered part isn't seating into the female joint, its raised the heat source further from the load. To reduce the falloff effects of inverse square I've been pushing the screen up further into the female joint, but by pushing the screen up towards the wider end of the 19/22 taper it's creating less even AVB since the bowl diameter is wider than the hot air exit of my vaporizer.

I like the perc screen idea, my only reservation with one like that is I wouldn't want any more pressure drop, for my tastes I still feel the draw could be opened up a bit more. I was thinking since these air inlets are being CNC'd maybe I'll try a different hole pattern, or a few slits instead. Would be interesting if a vape was built with the tornado perc as an inlet and outlet without the balls and see if there was enough residence time for the air to be heated inside that glass oven without all the pressure change of the beads.

I've been curious about the ball & socket joints too, the socket kind of looks like it would make a good bowl. That's sweet to hear that the thicker resistance wire upped your fire power, I think the relatively poor conductivity of glass benefits from the extra fire power. Though I still tend to feel that the absolute best way to heat a glass or quartz vape is still with a torch. I notice the same with my enails. To me, the torch can saturate glass with heat in a way that just hits different from pure electronic heating. But I equally love the repeatability and simplicity from regulated electronic vaping lol

 

[Vaporware]

@invertedisdead Here’s an experiment you might want to try sometime:

Have someone heat two sessions in another room for you, one with a torch and one with an e-nail set higher than the temp you want to use (similar to the temp it reaches with a torch if possible).

Before hitting each one you would let it cool to the same temp, keeping the variables more limited.

I‘m sure you already know more about this than I do, but I suspect that some factors like whether you’re starting at your desired temp or overheating first probably make a difference.

I’m pretty sure all of the temperature measurements we’re getting are based on surface temp, so if for example the temp is noticeably higher deeper in the quartz (is that possible with quartz this thin?) it may affect how and how fast the surface heat is replenished.

Maybe this is all nonsense, but narrowing the set of variables could help to determine whether heating method (torch vs e-nail) matters much in the ability to saturate glasswith heat or if max temp reached, heat soak time, etc. are making the difference you notice.

Oh, and trying different holes/patterns and even removing the balls if possible would be great to explore! I’d bet some people would really like to buy one ASAP even if it’s not perfect though, so you might want to at least take some pre-orders or reservations and get some made while still ordering other versions to test, especially if you can’t get the prototypes made quickly.

 

[nonamekevin]

Cheers my friend!!! Glad to see you stopping by, and I appreciate the input and the well wishes. Hoping you're on a good vibe as well my dude!
I like the approach, I think my only reservation with something like this cover is if the coil was physically touching it, or even just absorbing radiant heat, do you think it would still get too hot to touch? I just wouldn't want to give people the wrong idea if it could still cause a burn, albeit less of one - I guess in some ways I viewed the exposed coil as somewhat of a warning sign that the device gets hot - sort of like how people tend to act safer when handling something they might perceive as less safe.

For sure, I understand the concern, and it's valid. With a clay/pottery/stoneware type of heat cover, I would expect some amount of radiant or conductive heat, but how much I don't know, I'm not that familiar with those types of ceramics.

There is inherently an amount of risk/danger with any vape, and I think those of us who will purchase the inverzion understand where not to grab.

 

[invertedisdead]

@invertedisdead Here’s an experiment you might want to try sometime:

Have someone heat two sessions in another room for you, one with a torch and one with an e-nail set higher than the temp you want to use (similar to the temp it reaches with a torch if possible).

Before hitting each one you would let it cool to the same temp, keeping the variables more limited.

I‘m sure you already know more about this than I do, but I suspect that some factors like whether you’re starting at your desired temp or overheating first probably make a difference.

I’m pretty sure all of the temperature measurements we’re getting are based on surface temp, so if for example the temp is noticeably higher deeper in the quartz (is that possible with quartz this thin?) it may affect how and how fast the surface heat is replenished.

Maybe this is all nonsense, but narrowing the set of variables could help to determine whether heating method (torch vs e-nail) matters much in the ability to saturate glasswith heat or if max temp reached, heat soak time, etc. are making the difference you notice.

Oh, and trying different holes/patterns and even removing the balls if possible would be great to explore! I’d bet some people would really like to buy one ASAP even if it’s not perfect though, so you might want to at least take some pre-orders or reservations and get some made while still ordering other versions to test, especially if you can’t get the prototypes made quickly.

I haven't tried that with this vape before, but I have done a similar experiment with my bangers. #Shoobytek from member Shooby involved heating a quartz banger with a stretched barrel coil, then you'd take the coil off, and it was a pretty good approximation of a traditional torched dab. I think it mostly has to do with the radiant heat from the torch which is more expansive than the coil and covers more surface area. For example with my enail I can grab the banger by the neck at any time and it will barely be warm, but with a torched banger at the same floor temp the neck will be way too hot to touch, just from the proximity you get when heating with a torch. I think it could be less noticable with more conductive materials, but I notice it with quartz and glass. Another observation is that the radiant heat from the coil is almost nothing, you can almost physically touch it - whereas the torches heat can be felt from many inches away. It's hard for me to describe but it seems to have some effect on storing heat, even at the same surface temperature. That said, both methods work well!

Yeah I would like to be selling these, but I need the AVB to be perfect first. I thought the cut down joint would nail it, but since this one isn't seating I can't really tell if that would do it or not.

For sure, I understand the concern, and it's valid. With a clay/pottery/stoneware type of heat cover, I would expect some amount of radiant or conductive heat, but how much I don't know, I'm not that familiar with those types of ceramics.

There is inherently an amount of risk/danger with any vape, and I think those of us who will purchase the inverzion understand where not to grab.

Here's one for ya!

Buzzing around, saw some folks doing similar in the Prrl thread, first time trying this, figured I'd turn the cam on and see what happens, turned the temp up a little bit after this and it was really pumping out some thick ones!

 

[Shit Snacks]

Yeah I would like to be selling these, but I need the AVB to be perfect first. I thought the cut down joint would nail it, but since this one isn't seating I can't really tell if that would do it or not.

Who cares about exact avb when the vapor is that nice though, damn you and your selfish pursuit of perfection!

I have been so tempted to grab the E43 kit or upcoming DeskPod after missing Symphony, but obviously now I want this one...

Seriously though, great work dude!

 

[Shadooz]

Who cares about exact avb when the vapor is that nice though, damn you and your selfish pursuit of perfection!

There is no perfect abv, but there is still fucked one to avoid.
The purpose of a vape is to handle temp for extraction, which mean stable and balanced diffuse for low, medium and high, (what an elv8r miss,(blast effect) and where this one seems to beat it).
And be able to avoid combust with a safety margin.
If u have to be carefull when u draw, the experience will be less appealing.
That's why portabla battery temp regulated device are popular. Easy to use.

U can have huge cloud, but if u are in subcombust area does it worth it ?

 

[Shit Snacks]

There is no perfect abv, but there is still fucked one to avoid.
The purpose of a vape is to handle temp for extraction, which mean stable and balanced diffuse for low, medium and high, (what an elv8r miss,(blast effect) and where this one seems to beat it).
And be able to avoid combust with a safety margin.
If u have to be carefull when u draw, the experience will be less appealing.
That's why portabla battery temp regulated device are popular. Easy to use.

U can have huge cloud, but if u are in subcombust area does it worth it ?

Totally feel you, what impresses me so much about vapbong /bandit is how nice of an equilibrium it hits where I am never concerned about combustion or even scorching honestly... I am even more excited for this, if it has a better equilibrium than an E43 would, so I can wait for that feature!

 

[Shadooz]

@Shit Snacks I have seen that vapbong have focused subcombust issue if u go too slow on it.
The way the hot air fill the chamber could vary for each kind of draw.
Here, the different bubbler will change the experience, @invertedisdead u tried on stickybricks, so a small chamber, have u tried on 14mm little bubbler or sherlock ? A variety of draw.
I moved from an old shark bong, to a 18mm matrix to now a little 14mm. I prefer slow condense draw now. but it must handle that too, no reason to not

 

[invertedisdead]

Who cares about exact avb when the vapor is that nice though, damn you and your selfish pursuit of perfection!

I have been so tempted to grab the E43 kit or upcoming DeskPod after missing Symphony, but obviously now I want this one...

Seriously though, great work dude!

Thank you @Shit Snacks !!

Totally feel you, what impresses me so much about vapbong /bandit is how nice of an equilibrium it hits where I am never concerned about combustion or even scorching honestly... I am even more excited for this, if it has a better equilibrium than an E43 would, so I can wait for that feature!

I don’t really see much of a temp drop on my controller with this vape, it sits very steady even during back to back draws. The sapphire conducts heat more evenly than glass so it is able to recover quicker throughout the oven thanks to better heat transfer.

@Shit Snacks I have seen that vapbong have focused subcombust issue if u go too slow on it.
The way the hot air fill the chamber could vary for each kind of draw.
Here, the different bubbler will change the experience, @invertedisdead u tried on stickybricks, so a small chamber, have u tried on 14mm little bubbler or sherlock ? A variety of draw.
I moved from an old shark bong, to a 18mm matrix to now a little 14mm. I prefer slow condense draw now. but it must handle that too, no reason to not

Yeah I’ve ran it through a bunch of different rigs: 15” beaker, 12” straight tube, the double perch stemless rig I use in most of my videos lately, a small 14mm bubbler which was probably my favorite. It had high flow due to small size, but held a decent amount of water which made it surprisingly smooth for such a small bubbler. After breaking my little mini rig I’ve really been noticing how the bent neck was much more comfortable and ergonomic too, the straight tube seems to be causing more throat irritation for me lately, I’m guessing from the constriction in my throat when looking down to hit a straight tube.

 

[Shadooz]

I don’t really see much of a temp drop on my controller with this vape

But the PID show the temp of the massive coil, and the low conduction of quartz first. But no one gonna draw during 1 min, so sapphire have time to get hot again

the straight tube seems to be causing more throat irritation for me lately, I’m guessing from the constriction in my throat when looking down to hit a straight tube.

Put your tongue up, it will reduce the pressure on the throat. Heavy convexion device move a more important mass of hot air, so easily irritant if u do lot of back to back
ur testing must have dried a lot of bud XD

Why won't let some here help you with feedbacks ? A lot will love to buy a pre version. Even if u move to a V2, V3...

 

[Shit Snacks]

Thank you @Shit Snacks !!
...
Yeah I’ve ran it through a bunch of different rigs: 15” beaker, 12” straight tube, the double perch stemless rig I use in most of my videos lately, a small 14mm bubbler which was probably my favorite. It had high flow due to small size, but held a decent amount of water which made it surprisingly smooth for such a small bubbler. After breaking my little mini rig I’ve really been noticing how the bent neck was much more comfortable and ergonomic too, the straight tube seems to be causing more throat irritation for me lately, I’m guessing from the constriction in my throat when looking down to hit a straight tube.

I have a lot of dry cooling mouthpieces and j hooks now, hopefully going to get some more still, I feel like the jayhook for the herborizer is probably going to go really well with this! Phineas is also making me a big custom heady j hook with cooling spikes...

So are these red sapphires??

 

[Shadooz]

@invertedisdead u said to use it at around 400/450F, have u tried to found the low/high range and Have you change the PID temp ?
I guess u already know the high range, but the low one could give us the margin of use.

 

[Vaped2Space]

I thought my glass push screen idea was awesome, but it was sized for 4mm beads, even trickier to make for 3mm. And I didn't like that you end up thinning out the sidewall to make it, which was a weak spot right where the coil sat. The only solution to that I could think of definitely involves the CNC, and it goes back to my original design that's taped to my wall. It's just cost prohibitive for me to do it at this moment as its a complex part. Plus you gotta weigh the cost/benefit analysis - once you start using the CNC it might make more sense to start looking in a totally different direction, design wise. It's something I was considering if this one gave me more trouble. Now I'm torn because I quite like what they did, it just needs to be dialed in. But a couple days ago I didn't think I would ever get these parts, and was close to posting about moving on.

When I looked into threaded glass I couldn't really find anyone mating glass to glass, it was always with a dissimilar material, most commonly a plastic lid for thermometer holders in a lab setup, or for jar lids. Threading would otherwise make for some easy alternatives.



Just three from a prototype run. Now I need to figure out if they can nail it, or if I need to adjust to my plan B.

On that note I'd like to poll the room - how much flower do folks following this thread typically prefer to load per bowl? This info will help me greatly for future design decisions.

Quick test, apologies for the dirty glass, need to get more cleaner.

I find like anymore than .2 .3 starts to give to much icky tasting vapor. I kind of prefer to load just a tiny bit more than I can take in one hit, so that I can feel like I got the biggest hit possible, but not alot of Dookie hits to finish it.

 

[invertedisdead]

But the PID show the temp of the massive coil, and the low conduction of quartz first. But no one gonna draw during 1 min, so sapphire have time to get hot again

That’s correct that the thermocouple reading in the coil is outside of the quartz which would respond slower, though this design has the benefit of a good amount of circumferential insulation spread amongst other ruby pearls and the quartz oven housing. I’ve been thinking of throwing a thermocouple probe in through one of the air inlets to measure the actual temp drop during a session.

Put your tongue up, it will reduce the pressure on the throat. Heavy convexion device move a more important mass of hot air, so easily irritant if u do lot of back to back
ur testing must have dried a lot of bud XD

Why won't let some here help you with feedbacks ? A lot will love to buy a pre version. Even if u move to a V2, V3...

Thank you, I will give your tip a try! Haha, yes I have converted quite a lot of biomass into compost while testing these things

As far as a prerelease, I would like to be selling these and it would be nice to reinvest back into the platform, but I’m pretty peculiar about what I want since it’s my personal vaporizer. I may also be hypercritical at times A few people were supposed to be testing these months ago, but it’s been more involved and delayed than I expected to get parts made during the last year. The funny thing is I did really well in business class but I’ve definitely been bad at selling these
It’s important that I don’t let an impossible hunt for perfection kill this vision entirely, but I have to be truly confident that I’m building vapes because they’re better.

I have a lot of dry cooling mouthpieces and j hooks now, hopefully going to get some more still, I feel like the jayhook for the herborizer is probably going to go really well with this! Phineas is also making me a big custom heady j hook with cooling spikes...

So are these red sapphires??

The red ones are rubies, but the material is the same as sapphire (corundum, or crystalline aluminum oxide)

@invertedisdead u said to use it at around 400/450F, have u tried to found the low/high range and Have you change the PID temp ?
I guess u already know the high range, but the low one could give us the margin of use.

The numbers have changed a bit with this latest version since the position of the screen in the bowl can be adjusted so much. But I still tend to stick to that 400-450 range. You can definitely take it above 450 if you like a darker roast, but I find the flavor from this vape is very pure which turns me off from taking the temperature much higher.

This vape tends to crush a bowl pretty quickly, most of my stuff is kind of aimed at that, but you can just do shorter inhalations and still get multiple pulls off a bowl, especially at lower temps. Right now the vape scene is all about instant extraction and thick vapor, back in the day it seems like it used to be more about real low temp, blue tinged vapor, where you might not even get much of a hit on the first pull as it mostly served to dry out the herb. I was talking to a few people about this recently, pondering if modern vaporizers are truly more powerful extractors, or if more people just vaped differently then today. Either style works pretty well with this one.

I find like anymore than .2 .3 starts to give to much icky tasting vapor. I kind of prefer to load just a tiny bit more than I can take in one hit, so that I can feel like I got the biggest hit possible, but not alot of Dookie hits to finish it.

Word up, I can definitely dig that!

 

[Shadooz]

The numbers have changed a bit with this latest version since the position of the screen in the bowl can be adjusted so much. But I still tend to stick to that 400-450 range. You can definitely take it above 450 if you like a darker roast, but I find the flavor from this vape is very pure which turns me off from taking the temperature much higher.

I was talking about PID recalibration
Cause if it start to combust at 475F the delta is really close to the 450F of bud combust point. Which made this vape the most efficient heat transfer of the market.

The goal to know the low side is to theorically get the 200C (392F) where a lot of people (like me) still doesn't want to go above

 

[arb]

The straight glass adapter for the Alpha fits perfectly into a stempod.
Does not sit deeper, closer to the heater.
The only difference is one is tapered and one is straight.
There is a significant improvement in performance with the straight wall piece.
I have seen this across a few vapes now so maybe lose any taper at all if possible?