Discontinued Pandora Kit from Purple-Days
- Thread starter Purple-Days
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- discontinued diy log
Purple-Days
Well-Known Member
Everyone interested in the PDP (including previous buyers) should refresh the Pandora Page on Memorial Day. http://purple-days.com/Pan1.html
Summer is here.
We love holidays.
Summer is here.
We love holidays.
OrganicVapor
Well-Known Member
i've been enjoying the hell out of mine, so much that i forgot to put on the leather.. 
gonna glue it overnight tonight, will post pics of the finished project tomorrow (Ash & Elk)
The assembly was really straightforward, although i could have flared the exchanger a bit more.. it was good and tensioned, and then after heating a few times i can hear the washers slide around just a tiny bit inside.. not really an issue tho, no real "rattle" and it heats like a dream.. I might one day snip the wires, pull out the exchanger and re-tension a bit if i switch to more exotic leather.
Soldering went like a breeze, and the sanding was the most enjoyable part.. went all the way thru each level of paper, even did a wet-sand stage at 220 to bring out the grain... took me back to my high school job turning out redwood burl carvings.. used to sand down tables and clock faces, using low grain paper to scratch up the wood, and then buff out the scratches along the grain; through each level of paper, ensuring a perfect glass-like finish
everyone who's seen/used it wants me to build them one
thanks for the history lesson on the PDP name Tom; i was wondering where it came from.. i listen to Pandora radio online a lot
gonna glue it overnight tonight, will post pics of the finished project tomorrow (Ash & Elk)
The assembly was really straightforward, although i could have flared the exchanger a bit more.. it was good and tensioned, and then after heating a few times i can hear the washers slide around just a tiny bit inside.. not really an issue tho, no real "rattle" and it heats like a dream.. I might one day snip the wires, pull out the exchanger and re-tension a bit if i switch to more exotic leather.
Soldering went like a breeze, and the sanding was the most enjoyable part.. went all the way thru each level of paper, even did a wet-sand stage at 220 to bring out the grain... took me back to my high school job turning out redwood burl carvings.. used to sand down tables and clock faces, using low grain paper to scratch up the wood, and then buff out the scratches along the grain; through each level of paper, ensuring a perfect glass-like finish
everyone who's seen/used it wants me to build them one
thanks for the history lesson on the PDP name Tom; i was wondering where it came from.. i listen to Pandora radio online a lot
stinkmeaner
Well-Known Member
My guess was the planet Pandora from Avatar, killer movie and even better special effects.
shantytown007
Well-Known Member
I lived in the Former Soviet Union for a while- In the city I was in, it grew wild all over the place (like an, erm, weed). Unfortunately, that stuff was 'industrial' - didn't give you more than the mildest buzz, no matter how much you smoked. Got low-grade schwag in matchboxes for about $0.75 a matchbox, and hash from afghanistan every once in a blue moon. I was out in the sticks though compared to Moscow, I'm sure they have much more variety there. Longest phrase I ever learned in Russian was 'Ya liblu kureet anashu kak pavaros' which roughly translates to 'I love to smoke weed like a steam engine.' Russian is hard. Not Chinese hard, but way more than Spanish hard. Ok, back on topic.Purple-Days said:
I didn't flare my heatsink lip- looking at the recent posts now, I think it was because I didn't have a hard enough surface. The crossbar was in tight though (tight enough that I could no longer move it w/o using a table or hammer). Haven't sealed up the leather yet, should I crack it back open and redo the flare, or is the main point to have tension on the stack?
I had a tough time trying to flare it, spent over a half hour whacking away with no effect. Then I figured it out - I put a hammer, face side up, on the concrete floor. Then I placed the Heat Exchanger assembly on the face, flare side up, and carefully hammered the flare out [with a second hammer, of course].
I believe the sole purpose of the tension is to ensure good heat conduction between the HE elements. Therefore, no further flaring is necessary if good tension is maintained. Admittedly, I hammered my flare to complete flatness, though.
This Pandora Kit idea is the best bit of engineering in the annals of the PD, IMHO. By participating in construction, customers comprehend the simplicity (purity) of design. I doubt I am alone in diggin' it.
I believe the sole purpose of the tension is to ensure good heat conduction between the HE elements. Therefore, no further flaring is necessary if good tension is maintained. Admittedly, I hammered my flare to complete flatness, though.
This Pandora Kit idea is the best bit of engineering in the annals of the PD, IMHO. By participating in construction, customers comprehend the simplicity (purity) of design. I doubt I am alone in diggin' it.
Purple-Days
Well-Known Member
Haven't seen the Avatar movie (probably won't, ever) and the name has nothing to do with it. The name was from early March 2008. I actually own another product (since 2003) that is called Pandora, it's a bass guitar effects by Korg (they make one for guitar too). And I've listened to streaming music on Pandora, nothing to do with that either.
+++
About Russia, I don't remember what city in Russia we sent a unit to. I used Moscow as an example that everybody would know like Paris. If I had used Yakutsk and Aurillac, for example, folks would have wondered where I was speaking of. But, there really is a PD in Russia.
'Ya liblu kureet anashu kak pavaros'
+++
The flair: Yes, tension makes for good conduction throughout the heat exchanger. But, as long as all parts are in good contact, you are good to go. And once the heat exchanger is in place and the crossbar is between the arms of the retaining clip nothing is going anywhere even without much tension.
So the answer is, as long as you have some tension to ensure conduction, and so the crossbar doesn't fall out while you are working, you are good. I would not take one back apart, to put a little more tension on the stack, it will not be 'better' in any way.
Yes, the HE must be on a 'rock solid' surface. If it's bouncing at all or the work surface is rebounding you will have difficulty.
Wow,
the two hammer idea is a good one. But it might be easiest to just lay the first hammer on it's side (on a solid surface) and use the flat side of the hammer head (at the handle junction) as the work surface (anvil face). Once you are on a solid surface the flair bends pretty easy.
+++
About Russia, I don't remember what city in Russia we sent a unit to. I used Moscow as an example that everybody would know like Paris. If I had used Yakutsk and Aurillac, for example, folks would have wondered where I was speaking of. But, there really is a PD in Russia.
'Ya liblu kureet anashu kak pavaros'
+++
The flair: Yes, tension makes for good conduction throughout the heat exchanger. But, as long as all parts are in good contact, you are good to go. And once the heat exchanger is in place and the crossbar is between the arms of the retaining clip nothing is going anywhere even without much tension.
So the answer is, as long as you have some tension to ensure conduction, and so the crossbar doesn't fall out while you are working, you are good. I would not take one back apart, to put a little more tension on the stack, it will not be 'better' in any way.
Yes, the HE must be on a 'rock solid' surface. If it's bouncing at all or the work surface is rebounding you will have difficulty.
Wow,
the two hammer idea is a good one. But it might be easiest to just lay the first hammer on it's side (on a solid surface) and use the flat side of the hammer head (at the handle junction) as the work surface (anvil face). Once you are on a solid surface the flair bends pretty easy.
shantytown007
Well-Known Member
Just saw some great deals on Amazon for forceps/hemostats- 1 straight and 1 curved forcep set for like $3.50: http://amzn.to/9WvNpY (not a referral link).
Lo
Combustion free since '09
Wow!! Very pretty Tom! Great artistry therePurple-Days said:Everyone interested in the PDP (including previous buyers) should refresh the Pandora Page on Memorial Day. http://purple-days.com/Pan1.html
Summer is here.
We love holidays.
Thanks for another nice giveaway!Happy Memorial Day!
Hello,
I've had my Pandora for about a month now, and just recently, the temps have been varying drastically. A few days ago, it would get hot enough to combust and since then, the temps have gone all over the place. Before friday, this was never a problem. What could be the cause? Is this part of the break in?
I've had my Pandora for about a month now, and just recently, the temps have been varying drastically. A few days ago, it would get hot enough to combust and since then, the temps have gone all over the place. Before friday, this was never a problem. What could be the cause? Is this part of the break in?
Purple-Days
Well-Known Member
The temperature is set by Resistance and Voltage.
Combustion (as in fire) is not possible with 12 Volts and the resistor provided.
A short will just stop the heat altogether.
So we are down to variable heat. As we have seen, over and over again, a damaged cord or plug are the cause of intermittent power and varying heat output. Yanked my PD off the desk three times tonight with my big feet.
Depending how long the broken wires are in contact, or not, may mean a slight drop in temp or complete loss of power.
The troubleshooter is the car cord. Make sure the red LED is lit plug the unit in. If the fuse blows you have a short. Not likely since your power is intermittent, but the car cord is still a good troubleshooter. If the PDP works fine in the car you can be sure you have cord or plug issues. PLugs can be replaced at Radio Shack 2 for $2.99. Type M DC power plug.
You can also get a complete wall power supply replacement, just see our FAQ for specs you can take anywhere. It's an AC/DC system, but DC is the most common available. Center Pos. or Neg. doesn't matter.
+++
Thanks to you, Lo, and all who choose us. I like giving stuff away.
Happy Summer to all !
http://purple-days.com/Panfan.html
Combustion (as in fire) is not possible with 12 Volts and the resistor provided.
A short will just stop the heat altogether.
So we are down to variable heat. As we have seen, over and over again, a damaged cord or plug are the cause of intermittent power and varying heat output. Yanked my PD off the desk three times tonight with my big feet.
Depending how long the broken wires are in contact, or not, may mean a slight drop in temp or complete loss of power. The troubleshooter is the car cord. Make sure the red LED is lit plug the unit in. If the fuse blows you have a short. Not likely since your power is intermittent, but the car cord is still a good troubleshooter. If the PDP works fine in the car you can be sure you have cord or plug issues. PLugs can be replaced at Radio Shack 2 for $2.99. Type M DC power plug.
You can also get a complete wall power supply replacement, just see our FAQ for specs you can take anywhere. It's an AC/DC system, but DC is the most common available. Center Pos. or Neg. doesn't matter.
+++
Thanks to you, Lo, and all who choose us. I like giving stuff away.
Happy Summer to all !
http://purple-days.com/Panfan.html
stinkmeaner
Well-Known Member
I wonder what would happen if you sold one to China, there probably would be 100 PD log vape clones on Ebay by the very next week, made out of particle board of course.
Purple-Days
Well-Known Member
Particle Board... 
I'm still grinning.
Just heard on the NPR news that they just 'released' (freed) a bunch of 'slaves' from a Chinese factory. Now that ain't funny, and (one reason) why I have a problem with Chinese goods.
I'm still grinning. Just heard on the NPR news that they just 'released' (freed) a bunch of 'slaves' from a Chinese factory. Now that ain't funny, and (one reason) why I have a problem with Chinese goods.
Budz Bunny
Well-Known Member
OMG - Isnt that the truth!stinkmeaner said:I wonder what would happen if you sold one to China, there probably would be 100 PD log vape clones on Ebay by the very next week, made out of particle board of course.
Got my PDP today, and I got ash (Or cherry, not to sure) instead of black walnut :/
It's still a very nice wood, and I'm not worried about it enough to change it up,
too bad it doesnt match my desk though
Aside from that everything looks good, I'm pretty sure that's my hook up wire right there, if not it's a paperclip and I'm crazy
Time to get crackin on this thing
It's still a very nice wood, and I'm not worried about it enough to change it up,
too bad it doesnt match my desk though
Aside from that everything looks good, I'm pretty sure that's my hook up wire right there, if not it's a paperclip and I'm crazy
Time to get crackin on this thing
Purple-Days
Well-Known Member
Yes, absolutely, Lo. If we sent the wrong wood we can make it right. Just e-mail. Walnut isn't dark till it is oiled or waxed. If you are not sure we can certainly help.
The Solder is softer and shaped like a coiled spring. I wrap the 18" of RoHS solder around a dowel. Squiggley. And a 'sort of' expected shape for solder.
The Hook-up wire by Belden, also RoHS of course, is wrapped around three fingers. In a mellow bend, easy to straighten out. Yeah, like two big thin paper clips, they are about 6" each.
The Solder is softer and shaped like a coiled spring. I wrap the 18" of RoHS solder around a dowel. Squiggley. And a 'sort of' expected shape for solder.
The Hook-up wire by Belden, also RoHS of course, is wrapped around three fingers. In a mellow bend, easy to straighten out. Yeah, like two big thin paper clips, they are about 6" each.
OK just ordered mine yesterday and i must say the customer service is like no other. I'm so siked i just read this entire thread! The pics are awesome and will probably post some when i get mine. OK i choose the Myrtle wood before finding this site. As i am new to Vaping and have only tried a vapor brothers a couple days ago, I decided to do research on a vaporizer for myself. After reading a few message boards i found using Google, i decided to get a PDP. Then after purchasing I found this site and it has made me a little concerned on my choice. I chose the Myrtle not knowing about the denseness, lower degree vaping whatever not. Has anyone used the Myrtle PDP and should i be concerned with the lower temps ? Like i previously stated i am new to this and really want to make this work. (I HAVE TO QUIT BLUNTS!!!!!!) trying to get healthier! Sorry for the long post and thanks Tom and Pammy for being such great small business owners. You can't find intimate service like this in Brooklyn (Except at you neighborhood bodega!!!!)
THANKS in advance!
THANKS in advance!
Purple-Days
Well-Known Member
You can change your choice up to the time we ship. We understand.
Having used more wood species, than most folks, for this type vape, I would say that Myrtle has an average density that is higher than the Alder, Cherry or Walnut. But it's in the 'Vapor Zone' just a couple of degrees lower than those I mention above. The Ash is just a bit lower than Myrtle (more dense) but people seem pleased with it's temp too. If you want the highest temps pick Alder, lowest pick Ash, others are in between. All are within a few degrees of each other and have the black radiating fins and tight tolerance to extract the heat into the airpath. Really it's just a few degrees maximum, but you can decide, because I try to give the facts. It's all about density and insulation (R-Value), simple math. Some don't get it. I see you do...
Thanks for your kind words, blessoill, you are welcome.
Gonna hit the sack, me and Kali are tired, can't wait till Pammy gets back.
Having used more wood species, than most folks, for this type vape, I would say that Myrtle has an average density that is higher than the Alder, Cherry or Walnut. But it's in the 'Vapor Zone' just a couple of degrees lower than those I mention above. The Ash is just a bit lower than Myrtle (more dense) but people seem pleased with it's temp too. If you want the highest temps pick Alder, lowest pick Ash, others are in between. All are within a few degrees of each other and have the black radiating fins and tight tolerance to extract the heat into the airpath. Really it's just a few degrees maximum, but you can decide, because I try to give the facts. It's all about density and insulation (R-Value), simple math. Some don't get it. I see you do...
Thanks for your kind words, blessoill, you are welcome.
Gonna hit the sack, me and Kali are tired, can't wait till Pammy gets back.
Thank you for the very quick response! I will get around to testing to see what the problem could be tomorrow.
Purple-Days said:The temperature is set by Resistance and Voltage.
Combustion (as in fire) is not possible with 12 Volts and the resistor provided.
A short will just stop the heat altogether.
So we are down to variable heat. As we have seen, over and over again, a damaged cord or plug are the cause of intermittent power and varying heat output. Yanked my PD off the desk three times tonight with my big feet.
The troubleshooter is the car cord. Make sure the red LED is lit plug the unit in. If the fuse blows you have a short. Not likely since your power is intermittent, but the car cord is still a good troubleshooter. If the PDP works fine in the car you can be sure you have cord or plug issues. PLugs can be replaced at Radio Shack 2 for $2.99. Type M DC power plug.
You can also get a complete wall power supply replacement, just see our FAQ for specs you can take anywhere. It's an AC/DC system, but DC is the most common available. Center Pos. or Neg. doesn't matter.
+++
Thanks to you, Lo, and all who choose us. I like giving stuff away.
Happy Summer to all !
http://purple-days.com/Panfan.html
My builds complete but it doesn't seem to be heating 
When I first plugged the 12v jack in it made a small spark, so I was worried
So I gave it the car test. Shorts out, mother fuck. how could I really go about popping it open? just break the solders and re-check everything? I'm going to ruin my leather for sure
Could the resister of broke? I did have trouble getting it to go in with the wire...
Man, this puts a damper on the night I don't even think if I can salvage this
So I ripped the leather bottom off, it got stretched but I could put it back on
, the two solders honestly look solid so I don't even know where to go from here,
is it worth completely taking apart the heater core and checking those or should I just give up
I cant even imagine how I'll get the clip securing the heater core off...
Update:Got first sets of solders broken... and got the clip off. The clip actually flung off and I've been
The solders all looked fine so I think that the resister must be broken, probably I broke it while trying to get the wires through the unit or something, idk, I'll probably be emailing tom for another one and set of wires I guess... Putting it back together one more time out of hope something stupid just happened
When I first plugged the 12v jack in it made a small spark, so I was worried
So I gave it the car test. Shorts out, mother fuck. how could I really go about popping it open? just break the solders and re-check everything? I'm going to ruin my leather for sure
Could the resister of broke? I did have trouble getting it to go in with the wire...
Man, this puts a damper on the night I don't even think if I can salvage this
So I ripped the leather bottom off, it got stretched but I could put it back on
, the two solders honestly look solid so I don't even know where to go from here,
is it worth completely taking apart the heater core and checking those or should I just give up
I cant even imagine how I'll get the clip securing the heater core off...
Update:Got first sets of solders broken... and got the clip off. The clip actually flung off and I've been
The solders all looked fine so I think that the resister must be broken, probably I broke it while trying to get the wires through the unit or something, idk, I'll probably be emailing tom for another one and set of wires I guess... Putting it back together one more time out of hope something stupid just happened
hereatlast
Well-Known Member
Sounds like maybe you had wires touching/crossing especially if the solder joints looked good.
I'll post up my experience with the build tonight
I'll post up my experience with the build tonight