Discontinued Pandora Kit from Purple-Days

Lo

Combustion free since '09
Nice Frickr! I love watching folks be impressed by the vapor and wanting to convert!!

Good luck with the build! Mine went very smoothly and works great :)
 
Lo,

Nosferatu

Well-Known Member
So I am making my Pandora and was wondering can I start using it a few hours aftrer the glue dries or do I really have to wait overnight? The glue for the bottom part that is
 
Nosferatu,

Purple-Days

Well-Known Member
Most wood glues are 'stuck' after a few hours, but not cured for maybe 12. Since you don't intend to put stress on the joint a few hours should be good. Worst that can happen is you have to glue it up again. The Leather to wood joint however should be allowed to sit 6+, just wipe any excess glue out of the way while it is clamped. hard glue globs are hard to scissor though.
 
Purple-Days,

Nosferatu

Well-Known Member
Cool thanks I would leave it on the block and everything and use really quick then shut off anyways. Also I realized I glued the leather upside down, so the smooth part is facing up toward the unit and the rough side down to floor. If it doesnt matter I really dont mind unless the glue wont stick right to that side or something?
 
Nosferatu,

Nosferatu

Well-Known Member
Sorry to double post but I have one more question. Did I miss something or is the vapor tube just sposed to sit in the unit inside the hollow cylinder with the little rod through it? Wont the herb fall in sometimes? Should I put a vapor tip screen in there or am I overthinking? Also should the vaportube be loose in there just a tiny bit cuz the HE cylinder is wider than the vapor tubes tip?
 
Nosferatu,

aterphasma

Well-Known Member
masbanji92 said:
Sorry to double post but I have one more question. Did I miss something or is the vapor tube just sposed to sit in the unit inside the hollow cylinder with the little rod through it? Wont the herb fall in sometimes? Should I put a vapor tip screen in there or am I overthinking? Also should the vaportube be loose in there just a tiny bit cuz the HE cylinder is wider than the vapor tubes tip?
Hey, it's all good. Yeah, the heat exchanger tube is supposed to be like that. You might be able to put a screen in to keep herb out, but you'd have to get the right size screens and ring clips--I don't know if the ones that come with the kits would work or not. Someone who's got the actual unit (mine's not even in the same city at the moment) would be able to tell you more about it.

Also, yes the vapor tubes are loose inside the HE cylinder. It's the way of things.
 
aterphasma,

Purple-Days

Well-Known Member
There is about 2 one-hundrdths of an inch difference between the OD of the Vapor tip material and the ID of the Heat Exchanger. A perfect match would mean you would have to be perfectly aligned to mate the two. So with stock (US) inch sizes we end up with about 1/100th of an inch on either side. A little play.

"Should I put a vapor tip screen in there or am I overthinking?" It's your project... ;)
 
Purple-Days,

shantytown007

Well-Known Member
If you load up the tube with the 'straw' method, then push in the shrubbery with your fingertip, it's in there pretty good. Give the top of the tube a tap or two to be sure that all 'loosies' fall out.

If you have super-fine grind or are keef-tipping, hold the tube parallel to the floor after loading, and bring the PD up and sideways (side plug pointed straight down).

Either way, once you take the first hit, it's pretty much glued in place.

IMHO- extra screen = additional thing to clean or poke. I'm lazy :)
 
shantytown007,

Nosferatu

Well-Known Member
So what on earth is that little wood cylinder with the logo markered on. It fits in top of the PD, what is that for?
 
Nosferatu,

Purple-Days

Well-Known Member
Since you are in the Pandora thread, all I can suggest is you look at the DVD. Also slow down.

For others who wonder what he is talking about, we provide a 1" dowel with a hole drilled in it. It is a clip seating tool. If he doesn't have a Pandora, and has a Purple-Days Original which also comes with a clip tool, that product has a small flyer that explains it's use. Use it.
 
Purple-Days,

elmomuzz

That just happened...
What's harder then waiting for your Pandora kit to arrive? Waiting for the glue to dry. Tomorow we ride! :ko:

It was really fun and easy to assemble by the way.
 
elmomuzz,

Purple-Days

Well-Known Member
385F* +/- a few degrees depending on the wood species**.

* based on comparison with digital readout vapes and a general consensus of folks who have used both and have posted on this forum.

** this is a best guess on wood species temps.

Alder a bit warmer
Cherry and Walnut 385F
Myrtle a bit cooler
Ash even cooler

All well within the Vapor Zone.

Temps are affected by wood density and the difference in R-value (insulation)

Denser than Ash just has too low an R-value and won't hold the heat well enough.
 
Purple-Days,

jumpman8828

Well-Known Member
Just stopping by to show a little love to the Purple-Days duo and show off some pics. Ash body (4-5 coats of Buzz Butter), chocolate paisley bottom.

vhci1x.jpg


ny7cly.jpg


351x0sy.jpg


Stem in, ready to vape!

2n903v4.jpg


Thanks for an awesome product guys!
 
jumpman8828,

shantytown007

Well-Known Member
Those are the most detailed shots I've seen yet of the Ash, looks gorgeous. The 'deepening' from the buzz butter really brings out the 'lines.' (yes, I park my car in a car hole).
 
shantytown007,

elmomuzz

That just happened...
elmomuzz,

elmomuzz

That just happened...
I turned the regulator up to 13 volts for todays adventure. It worked even better. :)
 
elmomuzz,

elmomuzz

That just happened...
I will do a very conservative calculation. That battery contains roughly 114 watt hours of energy. The PD consumes a bit less then 8 watts. 114/8 = 14.25 hours


I should add that lipo batteries require a special charger and should be handled with care. ;)
 
elmomuzz,

deathduck

Well-Known Member
My kit arrived today just a hair over two weeks from when I ordered, thanks PD =D I was working on it and my POS soldering iron that I bought from the internet (cheapest one I could find.. serves me right) died on me! Looks like I'll head to the store tomorrow and buy one.
 
deathduck,

Nosferatu

Well-Known Member
So elmomuzz do you just plug that device into the wall when you need to charge it after the 14 hours or whatever?
 
Nosferatu,

Purple-Days

Well-Known Member
Nice pics of Paisley leather ^^^. :cool: only available to the PDP folks now. All retail units are purple clad, for the visible future.

I figured a RC'er would show us how to do it right. These folks are at the front of mini and micro. Some of the motors are extreme.

I bookmarked these guys, at hobbyking just the other day. I used to build and not always right, fly RC gliders. Gravity always wins. Micro copters look fun...

I would think, and I might be wrong, that you could not use the full 5.0 amps. This may not hold for this battery, but hazard a guess of -10% below rating, for wear and tear, and old battery or incomplete charge cycle (correct me, new batteries, old math . . .) And the 12 V may not be provided over the entire, remaining 4.5 A, say take 20% from that . . . I would use 3.5 A as a rough guess of usable power, but is that at 12V ? I haven't looked hard but think if the cell pack is rated at a different voltage we will come to different conclusions. Still.... helluva power supply ! ;)
 
Purple-Days,

elmomuzz

That just happened...
That pack (6 cell lipo) at full charge is at 4.2 volts per cell or 25.2 volts. You don't want to take a lipo below 3 volts per cell so at it's most discharged state it is at 18 volts. That is a switching voltage regulator so it very efficiently converts the higher voltage to 12 volts (or wherever you set it) so you really can run that battery all the way down while still getting maximum performance from the PD.

You are correct that to get maximum life and performance from the lipo you shouldnt use more then 80% capacity before recharging.
 
elmomuzz,
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