Orion Induction Heater

[Indifferent FIsh]

Really having an ethical dilemma regarding the Orion. On the one hand; I desperately desire the ability to charge from a battery pack, which I already posses several different kinds of. The fact that this baby is tuned to cook bowls only makes me more interested. But, and mind you this is a very big but for me (and not the kind of big butt I like), the Orion is entirely plastic and appears to be designed with a lifespan tied directly to it's battery's lifespan. Also we cannot forget the kicker of it being made in China, mostly likely thanks to the need for custom plastic moldings for the exterior of the Orion. Hence my conundrum... sorry if this isn't really contributing to the conversation, it's just been on my chest because I certainly like some aspects of and ideas behind the design in the Orion. But these reservations are the only things preventing me from buying the Orion outright or even preordering it.

 

[TommyDee]

Its overpriced for a throw-away plastic device. It is unique. We weight its value. I'll be selling mine. I just have way better behaving IH's of my own making.

 

[stark1]

Bad boy. Bad boy. Whatcha goin to do.

I like mine. Like everything else today, it’s made with a finite lifespan.

When the battery craps out (and it is still functional), I am going to dremel it out, and re-case it; or use an external battery.

Of course my curiosity would most likely cause me to pretend to be a sturgeon, er, surgeon.

By that time, Orion will have been superseded by newer versions. Warping on, escaping the galaxy. To Andromeda.

Orion will then be redundant. Meanwhile, will we still be standing on a smoking Earth?

Remember, Vote in November.

 

[nIcE]

Funny they print the FCC icon on it but no ID, which is a requirement. So I wonder if those are even leggit now...
No entries to be found while looking through the FCC DB...

 

[LabPong]

Pretty sure I can pull mine out after 10 blinks and it will click, as I remove, no way I'm getting 12 blinks, without overcooking. I might have to talk to them at DV, but my vendor is PIU.

Wait.....you are pretty sure? What is the exact time to click on cold start for you....and which tip are you using?

 

[Majordude2626]

Wait.....you are pretty sure? What is the exact time to click on cold start for you....and which tip are you using?

Really depends on the cap. Some caps I pull out at 10 and as I'm pulling out or right after it will give the first click. Others seem to click on 11 blinks. 12 is for sure a no no on my unit. I don't really keep track of my tips, depends on which ones are clean. Most are 7 fin, one is 7 fin le, which heats tends to extract faster than the other 7 fins. I recently got a couple of the newer tips not sure how many fins, when I bought a couple of low temp caps. All tips are Ti. I do have one SS 17 tip but haven't used it. Its a range of 9-11 blinks, but I don't have any more specifics than that. I've started to anticipate the click from use, and I tend to pull it then, and still get terpe clouds. I will say that going to full click and not removing immediately leads to unsatisfactory results, not combustion, but that dark roast. I like to get usually 4 or 5 cloudys out of each cap so I like to pull early. I'm very happy with the device, due to the led blinks, because I can be consistent with with 8 or 9 blinks which is good, and even pulse it a bit before actual cool down to keep it going. I would not be nearly as pleased with device without the blinks. The aggressive heating really does allow you to clear a cap in 1 or 2 hits, which is nice when you are in a rush. If you want to stretch it you may have to finesse a bit. I'd like to know how many blinks others are experiencing to achieve click with Ti tips.

 

[TommyDee]

Funny they print the FCC icon on it but no ID, which is a requirement. So I wonder if those are even leggit now...
No entries to be found while looking through the FCC DB...

You know a few things most do not. Just the statement on the warranty card negates any CE protection. And you are right, the CE is not properly presented with the required reference information anywhere on the product or in literature. I'd love to get a peek at the submitted reports.

 

[MonsterWithoutBorders]

Add some dense silicone or other element to slightly raise up the floor in the induction tube. Raising the floor up will move the heat towards the tip and give you a tad more time to click. You can try this if your IH is too hot or clicking too fast.

Here is what I used......2mm

Here is what Pipes is using on top of his switches.....

I am having trouble with my ti tip. At the click too aggressive. Today I will try my M. Or ti with low tempcap.

 

[cindave]

Happy to say my Orion seems to be dialed in perfectly. Pulling it right at the click, first hit is very terpy, next two have moderate clouds. I have the Ti tip with low temp cap, have not tried the others just yet.
To use the PSM as comparison, I would go 1 to 2 seconds after the click for the same results. That said, I finish a cap in 3 cycles with my Orion, took 4 for the PSM.
Happy to have both.

 

[MonsterWithoutBorders]

I really like this device with my SS and low temp cap. With regular cap and captive cap, one might have been a better, but with the ti was close to charring at the click after perhaps two hits. With the stainless steel it was a bit better you got one more draw and then it was too hot at the click also. It is easy to count and get it below the click cause it is quite predictable. But for the pure ease of use the SS and low temp cap works amazingly quick and consistent predictable results it seems. I love the feel of the device too. It does not feel cheap to me at all.

 

[LabPong]

Really depends on the cap. Some caps I pull out at 10 and as I'm pulling out or right after it will give the first click. Others seem to click on 11 blinks. 12 is for sure a no no on my unit. I don't really keep track of my tips, depends on which ones are clean. Most are 7 fin, one is 7 fin le, which heats tends to extract faster than the other 7 fins. I recently got a couple of the newer tips not sure how many fins, when I bought a couple of low temp caps. All tips are Ti. I do have one SS 17 tip but haven't used it. Its a range of 9-11 blinks, but I don't have any more specifics than that. I've started to anticipate the click from use, and I tend to pull it then, and still get terpe clouds. I will say that going to full click and not removing immediately leads to unsatisfactory results, not combustion, but that dark roast. I like to get usually 4 or 5 cloudys out of each cap so I like to pull early. I'm very happy with the device, due to the led blinks, because I can be consistent with with 8 or 9 blinks which is good, and even pulse it a bit before actual cool down to keep it going. I would not be nearly as pleased with device without the blinks. The aggressive heating really does allow you to clear a cap in 1 or 2 hits, which is nice when you are in a rush. If you want to stretch it you may have to finesse a bit. I'd like to know how many blinks others are experiencing to achieve click with Ti tips.

oh ...sorry.....I have no timing concept of blinks.... as I do not have a production Orion in my hands yet. I was wondering about actual seconds to click with a ti tip and normal cap.....how many actual seconds it takes to get to the click on a cold start?

 

[MonsterWithoutBorders]

oh ...sorry.....I have no timing concept of blinks.... as I do not have a production Orion in my hands yet. I was wondering about actual seconds to click with a ti tip and normal cap.....how many actual seconds it takes to get to the click on a cold start?

Using the low temp cap with the titanium. 4 1/2 - 5 seconds
Using the low temp cap with the SS 5 1/2 - 6 seconds

I am not interested in the other types of caps as they all seem to fast in my orion.

 

[Mr.Sifter]

So a Low Temp Cap becomes a necessity?

 

[Skinku]

So a Low Temp Cap becomes a necessity?

I don’t think so,
I might get one to try but I am going past the click with my captive and standard caps, 3blinks on Ti and 5 on SS.
I do like it toasty though as I am newcomer to all this, maybe the more experienced here savour the lower temps, I rush to the end like a mad puppy.
The units can’t vary that much surely?

 

[Skuanchy]

Im setting on the SS and normal captive cap, going for the click and after 1 or 2 shots the vapor production is very good and tasty and not harsh with my bb9. If i go past three blinks or more it starts to get burned on the top of the tip. The titanium tip gets to hot for me and if you go just a little past the click it gets roasted, but there is many factors to take account this was just 1 test i did yesterday.

Im just wondering who will be the first brave person here to open up the ORION and see if we can do something when warranty and battery life runs out. I just hate throwing something that could still work for years.

 

[TommyDee]

One risk with a tight, short coil is a higher degree of variability. The coil in Orion is 7-1/4 turns and 14mm ID. Very targeted energy to maximize battery life.

Anyone else get a jolt of hot glass from palming the Orion? Now we have to watch the cap and the heater.

 

[stark1]

So. Sunday, mornin.

Loaded up a micro doze, inert VapCap into Orion. press fire button. WTF...

No light. No heat. NO. No. NO!

Nothing.

Put charger on. Green light.

Tried again. No go.

—Only after my second cuppa Java did I realize/remembered. 3 clicks!

Respect the click (s). My bad

* My way of observing Sunday Morning*

 

[TommyDee]

What's your take on the Orion @stark1 ?

 

[stark1]

Purty nifty. POWERBANK A MUST, if away from mains, & a heavee user; I am a lightweight, a micro doser.

Roll over, Rover.



Now THAT has a pair- for sitting outside- enjoying the cool daze of Fall.

 

[dotcodotuk]

Not sure if anyone is either still counting or cares, but I am getting a very reliable 55 clicks from full-charge to blue light, which is 11 sets of 5 clicks on a 2019 PhantoM.

First click comes at 12 flashes of the indicator, but I leave it in until 15 to get a slightly terpier flavour, with a little visible vapour. Next four clicks come at 7 flashes each, and I kind of time it so that the 7th comes on the first click and the Dynavap is just out of the heating chamber as the second click comes.

Great flavour throughout, hits get a little hotter and heavier as the Dynavap is spent and the AVB is about the same colour as a heavy rolling tobacco would be. Even-ish, but certainly darker towards the cap end.

I absolutely adore using the Orion and it has totally reinforced my quitting of using tobacco and combusting in general. I encourage anyone who is even remotely on the fence to give it a go - I feel very comfortable with it being my first foray into induction heating.

Oh, and not sure if this has already been mentioned, but if you really run your fingers over the sides where the sticker is, there are three rectangular indentations on each side, spaced evenly and running parallel to the bottom. They look like where the two halves clip together...

 

[TommyDee]

Thanks for the review. 55 clicks is a real feat.

Chris from Dynatec told a few people the case is glued. It almost looks like it was sonic welded. The reason you know it is bonded is because it doesn't squirm when you twist it. The 'lid' is on the bottom. There is a circuit board about mid-ship in the case. Below the circuit board will be the 1000mag lipo cell. Basically a Apollo Rover in a prettier case, different coil, and a wizzy activation feature.

Now we really have an IH for the masses. All good.

 

[thunderstealer1337]

You know a few things most do not. Just the statement on the warranty card negates any CE protection. And you are right, the CE is not properly presented with the required reference information anywhere on the product or in literature. I'd love to get a peek at the submitted reports.

Not sure why your looking into this so much for the CE or FCC listing, that literally means nothing, one can pay like $500 bucks to get it certified, in fact the cheap $5crap I get from china all have FCC/Ce stamped on them.

As previously stated with my previous experience getting your product qualified per some kind of eletrical standard was ez pz except when it came to UL, they would audit my entire supply chain, down to the the root bom. And that was a monthly scheduled audit, the UL guy could drop into our facility and check whatever he wanted anytime. Not so elaborate for FCC/CE you pay, get your report and your golden.

 

[TommyDee]

Not worth discussing here @thunderstealer1337 - it would just get nixed by the mods.
Thanks for the confirmation that UL is still on the ball. Keeps my faith in humanity in tact.
Maybe we can get George to open up sometime in a TeaTime about what the investment into obtaining that mark cost.

 

[nIcE]

Not sure why your looking into this so much for the CE or FCC listing, that literally means nothing, one can pay like $500 bucks to get it certified, in fact the cheap $5crap I get from china all have FCC/Ce stamped on them.

As previously stated with my previous experience getting your product qualified per some kind of eletrical standard was ez pz except when it came to UL, they would audit my entire supply chain, down to the the root bom. And that was a monthly scheduled audit, the UL guy could drop into our facility and check whatever he wanted anytime. Not so elaborate for FCC/CE you pay, get your report and your golden.

Just something I noticed and as a gearhead this would be a cool way to get shots of the insights. But again, it can also be a legal issue for them, so pointing it out was ment to be a friendly gesture. Also, per your 5$ China gadget statement, yes you can put whatever stamp on things. The question remains, is it legit? To me this smells like not. If we as customers do not care about these things, then we can not keep makers to high standards.

 

[Strakin]

The CE mark is most likely the chinese rip off of the actual european official mark. It actualy stands for "chinese export"