I am running my impcognito at TCR 195, 35W and the resistance locked 0.005 above cold resistance reading. I use it in between 190-205 C.
PID: 4000, 600, 10
With hash I ramp the temperature to 215-220 C
Discontinued Impcognito
- Thread starter mistvaporizer
- Start date
PID: 4000, 600, 10
With hash I ramp the temperature to 215-220 C
4everpushingaboulder
Well-Known Member
Damn. Another thread I need to watch. Impcognito incoming.
Gonchin
Well-Known Member
Congratz! I love mine. I carry it about everywhere I go.
CanikUser19
Trenchtown Rock
When glass absolutely, positively will not do, I stick one of these in my Impcognito, excellent fit on both of mine.
Arizer Solo 1, 2, & 3 14mm 2" Water Pipe Adapter
Arizer Solo 1, 2, & 3 14mm 2" Water Pipe Adapter
4everpushingaboulder
Well-Known Member
Landed. Do you all use dosing caps and which ones? Also any idea where to get extra screens?
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I didn't really like the dosing caps, though he made his own custom ones that had deeper baskets, they worked well enough with the shorty wood stem though... The ones from tinymight could be about the same size since people were using the imp capsules in the TM originally, there's also a chance the mesh Fury 2 capsules may be able to fit... I would hit up Alan @ toasty top for extra screens, nice steel basket screens more like the Mist style. You could try to hit up Dave on Instagram to see if he has any leftover basket screens he can send you too?
CanikUser19
Trenchtown Rock
Can’t speak on the function of either as I’ve yet to use mine (both versions of Dave’s basket screens work just fine for me), but my POTV One dosing caps fit perfectly, better than my stock MV dosing caps. My MV caps are a little longer so prevent my MV stems from fully seating into my Impcognito. The POTV dosing caps are shorter, fit flush with the bottom of the stems, and allow the stems to be fully inserted. No idea if it matters at all when it comes to function as I have yet to use either style of dosing cap.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Yeah his deeper baskets I think are designed more for the wooden dosing mouthpiece in particular not really the glass stems I guess
CanikUser19
Trenchtown Rock
Just got home, but here’s a visual for you showing fitment in three different stems. First pic shows the POTV One dosing caps, second one stock MV dosing caps. Hope this is helpful.
4everpushingaboulder
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately my Fury Edge caps don’t fit.
Dave did have some screens and baskets he could sell me so we will see what works.
In the mean time. Bloodwood and Bocote.
Dave did have some screens and baskets he could sell me so we will see what works.
In the mean time. Bloodwood and Bocote.
4everpushingaboulder
Well-Known Member
Ok folks school me on these coils. I’ve been using TCR but just got a response on Reddit about Kanthal coils and TCR not working?
I just started using as is. Oops.
I just started using as is. Oops.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Correct this one uses steel coils so TCR does work... I wouldn't use an imp without temp control personally, though some do
Gonchin
Well-Known Member
The POTV ONE dosing caps work great.
4everpushingaboulder
Well-Known Member
I got a dosing cap in which was missed as part of my shipment. It’s also too long. Sent a pic to Dave on Insta and he confirms they are supposed to stick out from the end a bit.
So. Guess the Fury Edge caps will work too.
So. Guess the Fury Edge caps will work too.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Oh yeah lol so it's fine just need to not push the stem as far in with capsules
4everpushingaboulder
Well-Known Member
Well. Seems like retirement is treating Dave well. Ordered 4 dosing caps, 5 short screens and 5 deep screens shipped for $37.
Sent Dave these shots and said hey, what now
His response. Whatever works. Yup. Retirement treating him well.
Sent Dave these shots and said hey, what now
His response. Whatever works. Yup. Retirement treating him well.
Gonchin
Well-Known Member
Buy some POTV dosing caps. They fit perfectly in the wooden dosing stem.
bulletron3000
Member
Hey y'all just picked up this new side by side mod for $20 shipped. Doesn't have TCR, and they only have them in white now, but might be worth a look for you side by side fans.
www.3avape.com
Kizoku Techmod 80W TC Box Mod
Kizoku Techmod 80W TC Box Mod is made of SS304 & zinc alloy with side by side structure. Kizoku Techmod TC Box Mod is powered by single 18650 battery with max 80W output. Kizoku Techmod 80W Box Mod supports VW/ VV/ TC/ Bypass modes to meet different needs. And Kizoku Techmod Box Mod is equipped...
SilvaVapor
Active Member
Bought the Impcognito recently(2nd hand).
I did have a lot of questions but it took a while for my account to be approved and I'm impatient so I've answered most of the questions myself. So I will just share my experiences/findings for now as someone new to convection atomizers(new to dry herb vape in general).
I already have a DC Gen2, which is nice when you have the correct TCR settings for Artic Fox/Red Panda. I was keeping an eye out for a good deal for the Impcognito or similar because I heard convection is the way to go if you want to vape smaller amounts of herb. I don't always want a full bowl and the DC Gen2 works best that way. I will probably still make use of the Gen2 for longer sessions, with the auto-fire feature, it's still quite handy. Plus it's more stealth and cheaper to replace/replace parts.
So, I discovered that, you really should not use artic fox's auto-fire on the impcog right away. Even if you plan on using it that way, it's better to wait until you have your settings in the ballpark of where you want to end up first. I take it that most of the suggested settings here are for on demand use, where you'd hold the button and feel for when the time is right to let go. It probably sounds obvious to most but I wasn't really sure of the terminology until trying it myself. I combusted a few times while tweaking my settings, probably wouldn't have done so without auto-fire. One time it combusted really bad. This happened when I removed the atomizer to adjust something and replaced it, I didn't notice that for some reason artic fox switched back to one of my DC Gen2 profiles, which has a much different coil resistance. I think it's safer to have two different config files(disabling every profile you don't want for each) that you can quickly download to your mod, whenever switching your atomizer.
So my Artic Fox Impcognito settings if anyone is interested:
The resistance reads around 0.216 on device monitor under live resistance but I found raising it to 0.228 gave me the most stable temps(still not perfect but no large spikes and drops, like I was seeing before). So that's what I use for each profile for now, it's a bigger increase than the suggested 0.05 but that's given me the best results so far. PI regulation is enabled and I use the same settings for each profile.
I did have a lot of questions but it took a while for my account to be approved and I'm impatient so I've answered most of the questions myself. So I will just share my experiences/findings for now as someone new to convection atomizers(new to dry herb vape in general).
I already have a DC Gen2, which is nice when you have the correct TCR settings for Artic Fox/Red Panda. I was keeping an eye out for a good deal for the Impcognito or similar because I heard convection is the way to go if you want to vape smaller amounts of herb. I don't always want a full bowl and the DC Gen2 works best that way. I will probably still make use of the Gen2 for longer sessions, with the auto-fire feature, it's still quite handy. Plus it's more stealth and cheaper to replace/replace parts.
So, I discovered that, you really should not use artic fox's auto-fire on the impcog right away. Even if you plan on using it that way, it's better to wait until you have your settings in the ballpark of where you want to end up first. I take it that most of the suggested settings here are for on demand use, where you'd hold the button and feel for when the time is right to let go. It probably sounds obvious to most but I wasn't really sure of the terminology until trying it myself. I combusted a few times while tweaking my settings, probably wouldn't have done so without auto-fire. One time it combusted really bad. This happened when I removed the atomizer to adjust something and replaced it, I didn't notice that for some reason artic fox switched back to one of my DC Gen2 profiles, which has a much different coil resistance. I think it's safer to have two different config files(disabling every profile you don't want for each) that you can quickly download to your mod, whenever switching your atomizer.
So my Artic Fox Impcognito settings if anyone is interested:
The resistance reads around 0.216 on device monitor under live resistance but I found raising it to 0.228 gave me the most stable temps(still not perfect but no large spikes and drops, like I was seeing before). So that's what I use for each profile for now, it's a bigger increase than the suggested 0.05 but that's given me the best results so far. PI regulation is enabled and I use the same settings for each profile.
Range: 77%
P: 420 (sweet spot between 400-450 based on my readings)
I: 10
P: 420 (sweet spot between 400-450 based on my readings)
I: 10
Power: 35W
Resistance: 0.228
TCR: 140(I have another profile where the only difference is this is set to 195, which is usable but it's hotter so you have to pay attention)
Temp: 370F
Resistance: 0.228
TCR: 140(I have another profile where the only difference is this is set to 195, which is usable but it's hotter so you have to pay attention)
Temp: 370F
Power: 35W
Resistance: 0.228
TCR: 130
Temp: 360-370F(can start at a lower temp and raise it after your first draw or 2)
Resistance: 0.228
TCR: 130
Temp: 360-370F(can start at a lower temp and raise it after your first draw or 2)
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CanikUser19
Trenchtown Rock
If I’m properly understanding, your “on demand profiles” include settings tweaks other than simply setting your wattage and hitting the fire button? When I was trying to figure out how to dial in AF for my Impcognito, I just used standard wattage/power mode in order to get to vaping. I considered this my “on demand mode”. What am I missing? I’ll have to give your TCR settings a try, been a long while since I’ve fiddled with my Impcognito.
SilvaVapor
Active Member
This post is probably only useful for those who have the DC Gen 2 and accessories, but you never know what people might find useful so I'll share it anyway.
I've found out the heatsinks I bought for the DC Gen2 work nicely with the Impcognito, a 24mm one that the atty sort of sits inside, - then a standard 22mm one that I put underneath the 24mm one. Not sure if that's the right way around or not but the airflow feels better to me, seems to cool better too(not sure if that's the case or not either but it's what I prefer). One of the benefits of going the 510 route, is the possibility of being able to use gear across different atties(or should be IMO). I can just leave the heatsinks in which is a bonus.
I ordered an Arizer Solo2 short stem with 14mm ground glass adapter in advance of the Imp arriving. I did this so I could use my Hubble Bubble hydrotube with it too because I was concerned about cooling. I wish I'd have waited on that, because although I've read you can make it fit, it looks like I'd have to sand quite a bit of wood down to make it fit, which would mean none of the original stems will fit, once modified.
I was going to get the other Arizer Solo 2 Stem with the mouthpeice too as I can't find the wooden tips for the imp stem. To enable me to use some glass beads, to cool the vapour, when the hydrotube is not practical. So I'm glad I waited on that one at least. I think I'll skip the modification route and try and sell the unused ground glass adapter stem on.
Once the Impcognito arrived, I took a look at the size of the stem and remembered that the 14mm ground glass part of the adapter for the DC Gen2 is removable(connects via o-ring). So, I removed the glass part and put an extra o-ring below the existing one and it forms a good seal if you insert it smoothly(picture at the bottom). I've no idea if you can buy the glass part separately, as it looks quite a standard thing. Let me know if anyone finds it anywhere cheap, as I'd like to be able to leave one in each atomizer.
I'm thinking of ordering these glass balls from ebay and see how they cool the vapour:
Here's how it all looks without any beads in:
I imagine people still have temp control even without auto-fire because there's less chance of combustion/ it's easier to get the right hit. What I was describing was basically manual vs automatic.
To me, on demand is where you hold the button down for as long as you need it or for as long you are inhaling from it. You can have those profiles hotter because you will start to feel when you're close to combustion or when the vapour is simply too hot and let go of the button(manual).
You can't really do that with auto-fire because it will only shut off the power, once it reaches the time limit you set in the advanced settings of artic fox(automatic).
Edit: Sorry, I didn't read your question properly. Hopefully that's clear now.
I've found out the heatsinks I bought for the DC Gen2 work nicely with the Impcognito, a 24mm one that the atty sort of sits inside, - then a standard 22mm one that I put underneath the 24mm one. Not sure if that's the right way around or not but the airflow feels better to me, seems to cool better too(not sure if that's the case or not either but it's what I prefer). One of the benefits of going the 510 route, is the possibility of being able to use gear across different atties(or should be IMO). I can just leave the heatsinks in which is a bonus.
I ordered an Arizer Solo2 short stem with 14mm ground glass adapter in advance of the Imp arriving. I did this so I could use my Hubble Bubble hydrotube with it too because I was concerned about cooling. I wish I'd have waited on that, because although I've read you can make it fit, it looks like I'd have to sand quite a bit of wood down to make it fit, which would mean none of the original stems will fit, once modified.
I was going to get the other Arizer Solo 2 Stem with the mouthpeice too as I can't find the wooden tips for the imp stem. To enable me to use some glass beads, to cool the vapour, when the hydrotube is not practical. So I'm glad I waited on that one at least. I think I'll skip the modification route and try and sell the unused ground glass adapter stem on.
Once the Impcognito arrived, I took a look at the size of the stem and remembered that the 14mm ground glass part of the adapter for the DC Gen2 is removable(connects via o-ring). So, I removed the glass part and put an extra o-ring below the existing one and it forms a good seal if you insert it smoothly(picture at the bottom). I've no idea if you can buy the glass part separately, as it looks quite a standard thing. Let me know if anyone finds it anywhere cheap, as I'd like to be able to leave one in each atomizer.
I'm thinking of ordering these glass balls from ebay and see how they cool the vapour:
Glass paint agitators beads at 6mm, vallejo games workshop mix balls in bulk | eBay
This item is for exceptionally high quality 6mm glass beads for use as paint agitators, or for decorative purposes. We recently upgraded the quality of these and worked with a manufacturer to produce the highest standard of blue-glass bead (we previously sold green-glass which were less...
www.ebay.com
Here's how it all looks without any beads in:
Yes, they all have temperature control, what you described is just wattage/power mode, as I understand it. I haven't used wattage mode in a long while but I don't remember there being a way to tell what temperature your atomizer is at/reaching during use with that mode.
I imagine people still have temp control even without auto-fire because there's less chance of combustion/ it's easier to get the right hit. What I was describing was basically manual vs automatic.
To me, on demand is where you hold the button down for as long as you need it or for as long you are inhaling from it. You can have those profiles hotter because you will start to feel when you're close to combustion or when the vapour is simply too hot and let go of the button(manual).
You can't really do that with auto-fire because it will only shut off the power, once it reaches the time limit you set in the advanced settings of artic fox(automatic).
Edit: Sorry, I didn't read your question properly. Hopefully that's clear now.
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CanikUser19
Trenchtown Rock
If you’re looking for a WPA solution, the Ed’s TnT Airizer Solo 1/2 WPA stem fits perfectly. Only the WPA, the regular Ed’s TnT stems do not fit.This post is probably only useful for those who have the DC Gen 2 and accessories, but you never know what people might find useful so I'll share it anyway.
I've found out the heatsinks I bought for the DC Gen2 work nicely with the Impcognito, a 24mm one that the atty sort of sits inside, - then a standard 22mm one that I put underneath the 24mm one. Not sure if that's the right way around or not but the airflow feels better to me, seems to cool better too(not sure if that's the case or not either but it's what I prefer). One of the benefits of going the 510 route, is the possibility of being able to use gear across different atties(or should be IMO). I can just leave the heatsinks in which is a bonus.
I ordered an Arizer Solo2 short stem with 14mm ground glass adapter in advance of the Imp arriving. I did this so I could use my Hubble Bubble hydrotube with it too because I was concerned about cooling. I wish I'd have waited on that, because although I've read you can make it fit, it looks like I'd have to sand quite a bit of wood down to make it fit, which would mean none of the original stems will fit, once modified.
I was going to get the other Arizer Solo 2 Stem with the mouthpeice too as I can't find the wooden tips for the imp stem. To enable me to use some glass beads, to cool the vapour, when the hydrotube is not practical.
Once the Impcognito arrived took a look at the size of the stem and remembered that the 14mm ground glass part of the adapter for the DC Gen2, is removable(connects via o-ring). So, I removed the glass part and put an extra o-ring below the existing one and it forms a good seal if you insert it smoothly(picture at the bottom). I've no idea if you can buy the glass part separately, as it looks quite a standard thing to make. Let me know if anyone finds it anywhere cheap, as I'd like to be able to leave one in each.
I'm thinking of ordering these glass balls from ebay and see how I go on:
Glass paint agitators beads at 6mm, vallejo games workshop mix balls in bulk | eBay
This item is for exceptionally high quality 6mm glass beads for use as paint agitators, or for decorative purposes. We recently upgraded the quality of these and worked with a manufacturer to produce the highest standard of blue-glass bead (we previously sold green-glass which were less...www.ebay.com
Here's how it all looks without any beads in:
Sounds like you are referring to wattage/power mode, where you simply set appropriate wattage, press the fire button, and draw (most box mods using stock firmware will auto shutoff at 10secs, but not all). I’ve never had a need to mess with any settings when using it in wattage/power mode.
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