Jah75
Well-Known Member
it looks like he might not make them anymoreI think they’re at https://delta3dstudios.com/
@Delta3DStudios - any chance of these coming back anytime soon?
it looks like he might not make them anymoreI think they’re at https://delta3dstudios.com/
I have a couple.. But I ordered the mystery box along with some other things.. Just sayingit looks like he might not make them anymore
@Delta3DStudios - any chance of these coming back anytime soon?
thanks!If Delta3D doesn't make them, our Hopper Feeder friend from Israel also sells GHB battery charger spacer sleeves on ebay. (Haven't tried because I've always used mag charger)
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I believe it just creates a wedge for a tighter fitment for the heater so it doesn't unscrew when unscrewing the mouth piece.Edit:
can someone tell me please what the kuper thing is for. so what function does it have. it fell off, but I could put it there again
ok as long as it has no safety function i leave it out. but it cannot be unscrewed if you only unscrew the mouthpiece. that is easy to screw to do if it is not deformedI believe it just creates a wedge for a tighter fitment for the heater so it doesn't unscrew when unscrewing the mouth piece.
The Feeder is an ingenious solution -- I believe the design was inspired by the bolt action of a rifle. Best used with pre-dried grind, it shakes down better during a loadthanks!
on a side note - how do you like the feeder? I was worried it might get gunked up fast
awesome! Ill order one to try out as I order the charge sleds, thanks!The Feeder is an ingenious solution -- I believe the design was inspired by the bolt action of a rifle. Best used with pre-dried grind, it shakes down better during a load
This is a great weekend or concert (what are those?) OCD Hopper companion, but must continue being OCD with alcohol dipped cotton swabbing after your weekend. Resin does build and render it useless without maintenance
And, please, remember to use toothpick type digger to empty Hopper completely before shoving it into feeder for a refill. Been there, haven't done that
My IO Hoppers will not work with the stock power supply that came with my MaxVapor AC adapter kits. I know that I'm not the only one to experience this. I had to buy a more powerful power supply:Since receiving my AC adapter from Max Vapor Nail, my Hopper IO has officially become my at-home vape
...SNIP...Grasshopper AC Adapter Kit - Reservation Only
This is a Pre-Order / Reservation Item, the final cost of this product has not yet been determined. Retail price is expected to be $79 - $99. Remaining balance will be due upon shipping. Kit Includes: SS316 Grasshopper Body Extension Dummy Battery Insert with XT30 Connector Custom 4.2V Power...maxvapornail.com
The fit and finish of the adapter hardware is slightly rough, and the cord is pinched under the pocket clip when fully tightened, but everything seems to be holding up just fine after 2 months of daily use now. If you can find one available, jump on it!
What's ironic is the adapter power supply is only rated for 60W, and yet it performs significantly better on my 70W Ti IO than the batteries that ship with the unit! But the max power rating is a misleading spec for a device using a PWM regulated heater. Even when drawing at full speed you're never actually using full power, you can hear the heater clicking on and off. I used a Kill-A-Watt and max power during heavy draw is only ~47W, you only see 60W very briefly at first turn on from cold. Since the performance is so much better on the adapter, it seems the stock batteries aren't able to keep up with even 47W of power draw.
i seem to be having fun you mean. lol@cliffhanger1 , I tried to warn you, that you might not find anything you could service in there, and the risk of damage, but, you seem to be having some fun...
When my og's "heater module" came unscrewed, it was 'glued' to the mouthpiece and they both spun out together. (Tip for HL; make the threads for the heater module left handed, the reverse of the mp)
I agreed with @zatonic, I think the copper piece is a type of thread lock, to prevent removal of the module.
In my case, I was unable screw the module back in properly, so I meant to caution you as well, but yours does go back so, that's good.you said to me that that it is possible that I have not screwed the cylinder in all the way..not more
i think it is ALL good so long not to use a pliers
all good i was so stupid looolI'm sorry I used the word 'pliers' back then; it was meant only to illustrate for you that this module does unscrew from the body.
With the io there is no label on the packaging (like with the og), but they haven't changed the web registration. They can register it manually, if requested.Maybe it's something I'm missing...
I just realized I was technically emailing the hopper IO email support and not the warranty claim process, so I went to go do that. The serial number on top of the device is fine.
Where is the ID code located? The instructions say on the label on the bottom of the hopper box but I don't have a label...
Gotcha thank you. I had emailed them on Monday but hopefully they respond to today's email about that. Otherwise just gonna try to remain patient.With the io there is no label on the packaging (like with the og), but they haven't changed the web registration. They can register it manually, if requested.
For a new io, the support email is the way to go, it will work fine.
I bought my SS Hopper IO last black Friday, received it one day before new year eve but dit a RMA one week later because it was heating at the same temperature wherever the temp dial was and i had to pay for shipping (30€ in my case).
I received a new SS Hopper IO 4 days ego and this one is still kind of defective : it's extremely hard to turn the temp dial. I have to squeeze it like a bottle cap hard to open in order to make it turn. No is almost no way I can make it moving using the tips of my thumb and pointer finger.
The steel of the MP doesn't match the steel of the body, but my PFE matches it though.
I also cooler than other IO. My AVB is the lightest color of all my vapes, even lighter than my first defective IO.
I'm able to take pretty long draws native, on temp 5 and what make me stop is the heat of the MP and not the heat of the air/vapor coming from the device. However, i put my AVB from the IO in other vapes at max temp (Tiny might and vapcap with IH) and only got a very little hit so it seems the extraction is ok (i prefer very dark ABV but it's probably just psychological).
I wrote to HL asking for a new backend. Let's see what they say.
Good to know about the body of the IO.I'm sorry to hear that if the backend is defective you need a new one, of course
but don't get too hopeful that this will make the ABV darker. I have now made the experience with some devices that the body mainly determines the temperature and thus the ABV
Edit:
for your lips because the frontend is to hot, you need a silicone mouthpiece. then the problem is away.
or you can use a stem from the Tinymight before your mouth
Nope no response to either message from me this week, other than refreshing my email more than usual, waiting very patiently.anybody heard something from Hopper Labs this week ? i wrote them on monday with a question to my order with no response for now
A buddy whose OG was at HL during the fire heard back from them earlier this week. A Frankenhopper is on its way back to him and he heard fromNope no response to either message from me this week, other than refreshing my email more than usual, waiting very patiently.
Yeah that's quite ridiculous, don't have patience for that so I commend him on that.A buddy whose OG was at HL during the fire heard back from them earlier this week. A Frankenhopper is on its way back to him and he heard from
HL thorough his account.
On a personal note, due to low flower supply I’ve been using and still loving my IO (smaller chamber = less herb) over my other vapes. My OG is very neglected since I’ve had my IO for 5+ months which continues to work flawlessly. Great clouds, well-extracted AVB all natively.