Herbie V2 by Vape Engineering - 510 dry herb vaporizer

Grass Yes

Yes
Staff member
Whelp, after spending some time with it, I don't think Herbie is a permanent member of the team. I like it fine, but it doesn't fit a need that I have in my rotation. I think someone else will like it more. Of course, I still haven't sold my other "drawer" vapes so who knows when I will get around for putting it up for sale. :lol:
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Whelp, after spending some time with it, I don't think Herbie is a permanent member of the team. I like it fine, but it doesn't fit a need that I have in my rotation. I think someone else will like it more. Of course, I still haven't sold my other "drawer" vapes so who knows when I will get around for putting it up for sale. :lol:

Hate to lose another BETA-TESTER..... :(
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Well I’m no beta tester, that’s the main problem for me. Don’t wanna tinker, combust, clean, repeat. I just wanna load, toot, be high. I’m out too.

Totally understandable, you are far from alone.

Personally, I enjoy tinkering, had to do a lot of it in the ECig world. All my other devices are pretty much locked in, and so far this has be a challenge to me, trying to draw on my experience with mods and attys, and I hate to lose and give up.

So it’s obvious I’ve become an UNPAID Beta tester..... time for a vapcap, never fails to deliver!
 

Hippie

Well-Known Member
The lil bud (and its siblings) had a version of Alan's spiral mesh coil too

I don't think I've seen any longer ones than these on sale

I've always thought we should be able to crimp the mesh on to non resistance wire tails to make our own altho I still haven't tried it for the stempod yet
 

ConvectCode1

Well-Known Member
I’ve found that a lot of different style builds with the SS mesh strips work better, some worse than the style it comes with installed. I got the maintenance kit which comes with a ton of strips for coils. Also found that it sits very well, stable and runs incredibly well on an Eleaf Pico 2. That’s built to seat up to 27mm atomizers and is CLOSE to a SBS mod for $40 shipped from a US warehouse do you get it in 5 days instead of 5 weeks. The Aspire Mixx works reasonably well. I’ve found that using a dosing cap in the top part of the mouthpiece holds the cooling balls in much better than the mesh screen it comes with. I basically just leave a S&B dosing cap in the chamber at all times because it seats pretty tightly in there. Then I do OR don’t put a lid on the dosing cap. Works better with a lid, if you have a pick tool that allows you to easily remove the dosing cap lid as I find this vape needs a lot of stirring (hate that). I’ve had not so great results putting the material directly on the screen above the heater. I’ve also combusted a LOT and used/semi-wasted a LOT of herb with this thing. On the rare times I get a good hit (I find under powering much better than max powering and just pulsing the button, it’s like driving a 6 speed manual car that goes 600mph. Of course, Arctic Fox solves all of this but it figures I can’t get it to install on any of my Wismec mods (which all suck in TC mode) or even this Eleaf Pico 2. And I’ve tried 10 different usb cables as I know some aren’t data transfer though they’ve worked upgrading my Aspire NX75’s. Is running Arctic Fox, or the Evic or the Panda firmware really exponentially better than TC or TCR mode? The custom firmware sounds like it’s amazing. Super disappointed as I have bought 4 mods online in the last 2 months for the Stempod and then the Herbie when it was released only to find that Wismec mods apparently aren’t very good and the old school Pioneer4You IPV’s only work in TC/TCR mode with wet cotton in the coils. I already shot both my own feet off for not buying the kit with the paramour sbs mod. Terrible move on my part. My computer won’t open the .bin or application files In NFE tools or AF because there is nothing associated to open that file type. I have an up to date Mac but have heard it’s even more complicated using OSX than a PC. I know I’m missing a lot by not being able to run any of that cool customizable firmware. I am aren’t I? Damn.
 

Spleeeno

Horsin around
afaik the main appeal of the custom firmware is the auto-fire.
and my approach to testing is that its easier for me to go too low instead of too high when playing around with the settings. I can always finish the bowl in some already tuned desktop vape that extracts everything thats left in the herb - cant do that after combustion.
I've been playing around with the shape of the coil again, seems like just lowering/broadening the top middle bend can even out the roast, but some other people should try this out and report back.
oh yeah and tuned the settings again, I'm now on 22W, TCR 105 and 195C
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
I'd say the main appeal of these firmware is, to me at least, the implementation of proper (read PID controlled) temperature control, vs the very crude and basic way (read bang bang controlled) it's done in the Chinese mods trifecta (joyetech, eleaf, wismec) when they are in their stock form.
 
Last edited:

David Root

Well-Known Member
Got mine today. Made a lay down coil, just the M on its side. It works. Got whifs, good hits, and combusted a couple times. Doubled the bottom screen. New Coll is same ohms as old.

I just kept switching out dosing capsules.

Out of time today
David

Edit: Trying to get big clouds. Nothing.... pull top off, look at coils, no red, but some heat. Battery 3/4 full according to gauge. Tighten coils, check settings. Still just some heat. Throw in a fresh battery and away we go! I went through 3 batteries first attempt.
Battery indicator never goes below 3/4.
 
Last edited:
What would happen if we connected a G43 style coil around a glass rod/tube and then added a few balls?

Obviously it would need a prolonged heat up. Would the heat be a problem for the connected mod? Would the metal Herbie sink heat and impede performance?

Does anybody know what temperature a G43 heater runs at? Sorry if it's the wrong place to ask.
 
MedicinalMonkeyWrench,

oddjobold

Vape swap shop
What would happen if we connected a G43 style coil around a glass rod/tube and then added a few balls?

Obviously it would need a prolonged heat up. Would the heat be a problem for the connected mod? Would the metal Herbie sink heat and impede performance?

Does anybody know what temperature a G43 heater runs at? Sorry if it's the wrong place to ask.

Hmmm balls in the heat chamber like that idea
 
oddjobold,

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
But you can make OCD style heater by wrapping a coil around a ceramic rod,why not even a ruby rod ,like those used in bangers that have a pill form :).
image.png
51cRjOcB3eL._AC_SY450_.jpg


Here some joy from from personal OCD collection :) !.
are.png

Ghost style coil is also an option ,maybe make a quadripple coil ,instead of double,it would eat batteries like the Tetra heater,but it will deliver monster hits :).
weht3nwpj1v41.jpg
 
Last edited:

David Root

Well-Known Member
Sorry, no pics. I can email.

Old coil is .72" tall from the deck.

New coil is .43" above the deck, so I moved the same winding (sort of) down more than 1/4" from the load screen.

A picture is worth 1,000 words, but I will try to tell you.

Start out with one end, 1/4" from the bottom, make a 45* fold, so the leg sticks down 1/4"
Now fold it back. The strip is 1/2", so make squares when folding the M.
Fold the last end 1/4" up in a 45* angle and you have it.

Both coils are 1/2" wide.

I tried to set the unit so I could continuously hold the button.
One 10 second preheat, then draw a good hit.


It IS Convection and Conduction . That shield around the coils gets HOT which is also the bowl.
So as it warms up, it should need less heat. Perhaps temp step down......?

The balls work, they do restrict the draw. The steel mouth piece gets so hot I can't put my lips on it. Without the balls its hot right away.

Used a jhook. This was nice.

I combusted a few times all except once I had a dosing capsule. When I took them apart, it was always in the center.

TCR is the way to go, I am still figuring it out.

When I had it close, I could taste when it was time to release the button.
I am trying temp and watts, to see what is needed.
Enough watts to get it going but not comubst.

The chamber is exactly like my Crafty. Dosing capsules fit perfect.
Tonight I am going to see if a Mighty upper screen fits.
In my Crafty, I fill the bowl so the top screen holds it in place.

I love puzzles. This is a puzzle. No, its not a turn key operation.

David

I like it when I think I combusted, but didn't . That's a good hit.

edit: Just took the original coil and made it with 1/2" tall squares. Same shape, just a little further away from the load screen.
Will try it and report back.
 
Last edited:

Glorg

Well-Known Member
We’ll at least it’s some ease of mind that I’m not the only one struggling even though I wish none of us were lol, to update my little journey which has taken a turn for the worse currently: I couldn’t stop the hot spotting with settings and the DNA mod kept doing the temp protect instant issue, so I checked the stock mesh dimensions and it’s simply way to tall, per v2 folds it should be 15mm each way but it’s more like 19/20 and it was basically touching the screen so I decided to use the spare wire and make a new one and I absolutely did a perfect job I was stoked. Put it back on and got one sweet hit then instant combust lol so then back to cleaning. Messed with settings and kept getting temp protect on the DNA which for sure isn’t that it’s holding the reached temp it simply does not heat up at all when it does that (I tested this extensively with qtip char test) so I downloaded the app and set the setting per VE in that and tried it, again immediate temp protect on the first press and then it worked on the second press but it made the coil immediately glow. Now my new pretty coil is discoloured which I’m under the impression means it’s dead or at least won’t work with tc anymore. So I need to buy some new wire/coils before I can continue my experiments and try some non DNA mod. I’m disappointed the stock coil it came with was useless but otherwise i know a lot of the issues are on my end, I was expecting a degree of tinkering even if this has slightly exceeded my expectation there. I’m excited to see what kind of results people get with other coil configs I’m debating now whether I get the same stock kind or just try something new.
 

David Root

Well-Known Member
I made my short M coil 13 mm tall.

David

I do believe this will work. Learning curve is big, once a few figure it out, it will be easier.

I never held a mod box before. When I found out it will seek a temperature bu using resistance change, I thought it will do the job.


Edit, ordered these
 
Last edited:

4everpushingaboulder

Well-Known Member
I made my short M coil 13 mm tall.

David

I do believe this will work. Learning curve is big, once a few figure it out, it will be easier.

I never held a mod box before. When I found out it will seek a temperature bu using resistance change, I thought it will do the job.


Edit, ordered these

Those are NI80

Nichrome 80/60 are not suitable wires for temp control. Copy pasta
 

sashka69

Well-Known Member
I'm still testing several coil versions. With all of them I had good hits, sometimes hot spots, some of them lead to combustion after I was thinking to have the perfect coil setup found...
So I installed the original mesh coil back.



It's very difficult to reach the perfect setting. There are several parameters which influence the perfect extraction of a load.

I learned that causes of the hot spot game are the maximum wattage I set in tc mode and how hard, long and steady I inhale. 60w is too much for this. Little more than 50w are way better for me when using my jhook without cooling balls. Maybe this helps.

I went down from 60w maximum on my paramour to 52w. Air holes all opened. Medium slow drawing without balls through my jhook. Temp stepping in 15°c steps from 175°c to 220°C. Tcr 1020. Coil reads 0.18 ohm. This gives me 4 decent hits. Sometimes hot spot (dark brown but not black anymore because of the lower wattage) sometimes none. Will investigate further what's the best inhale technique for the most even roast.
 

Spleeeno

Horsin around
going by how friggin hot the mouthpiece gets, I doubt adding balls would make anything worse for the plastic in the 510 base, the whole thing can get super hot if you keep hitting it for 2-3 min. once its all nice and warmed up, just doing one super heavy quick inhale can absolutely combust your load, so it does have some built-in heat retention already. it just that as most of us are finding out, TC is kinda sketch anyway, so adding some balls (that just add another unknown to the "real" temp hitting the bowl) doesnt seem like a quick and easy fix here imo, but I'd love to be proven wrong :science:

meanwhile I might have gone a bit overboard with the accessories while waiting for coils...
drip2.jpg
herbie1.jpg
 

David Root

Well-Known Member
Today's report.
I added a Crafty top screen to replace the one that came with it. Fit perfect.
I am getting the hang of it. Dosing capsules do no harm if it combusts.

Last night I was getting good hits and decided to fill the bowl.
I put a Crafty capsule top above the 2 screens I have there now. I have Screen, Screen, crafty top all in the bottom of the bowl.
I got a few good hits including the first one.

Pulled the top and it only cooked in the center.

Since they seemed to copy the crafty oven perfectly for size, they should have added the diffuser like the Crafty.

Today I am going to put a small metal disc screen in the center of the 2 screens.

I am also going to try putting some 3/4" screens inside above the coil to help diffuse the heat.
I think some of the combustion is coming from RADIATED HEAT from the original coil. No air flow needed, just effin HOT too close to the load. Working under radiant heaters, I can feel the heat 10 feet away.

Some one said it above. "The Marshmallow is too close to the heat."

I used the stock coil shortened. I flattened it out, then folded it so its a square, 13 x 13mm. I cut off about an inch. Seemed to work fine in the M design. Its about .3 inches below the load instead of almost touching it. I used coils like in post 446.

My biggest problem now is the battery indicator is not working. I get it going, then it does not work, so I turn it up and nothing. Then finally put a fresh battery in and away it goes again. Battery indicator never goes below 3/4.

Using it last night with a fresh battery I finally found the sweet spot and had to turn it up! First time.

I would have to look at settings for last night.
All testing was done with the paired MOD that comes with Herbie.

I know nothing about these things. I have an Evic Dual that will not run in temp mode with this coil. I tried SS and TCR.

Tried to put on Artic fox the Evic. No luck down loading Artic fox. I downloaded the tool box, have the right cable and it recognizes my unit.
David

Edit: I made a smaller coil. Just an M with rounded corners. It comes out .1 ohms. My Evic says its .15 ohms.
It seems to work, takes less watts. I do this by watching the coil turn red or just barely glow, I can get it to glow how I want by changing temp. This shorter coil is working on my Evic in SS mode. It seems I can control it pretty good.

This is all bench testing. Actual testing will be this evening.

In tried screens stuffed up from the bottom of the bowl. It does not work.
I will take out the Crafty dosing capsule and cut a 10 mm circle. I will put it back in between the 2 screens in the bottom of the bowl, so it should stay in the center and help with the center getting hot first.

David
 
Last edited:

David Root

Well-Known Member
Cant edit :)
Update
I need batteries. I purchased these.
No idea if they are any good.
Getting what I want, but my sanyo 18650 are not cutting it.

With the shorter coil, I did not have enough heat.

This means I am closer. Could not combust today with a full bowl, 2 screens on bottom with short coil.
Its down to shitty batteries per bowl.
Paramour reads .1 Ohms, Evic reads .15
Short coil unfolded is 60 mm or 2.4".

The last one I had was 2" or 100mm. This was the original refolded to square size.
Going to make one 80 mm and see what happens.

I really know nothing about these mod boxes.
It seems the smaller lower resistance coil is eating up the battery.

Testing is on hold until my batteries shoe up.
David
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Cant edit :)
Update
I need batteries. I purchased these.
No idea if they are any good.
Getting what I want, but my sanyo 18650 are not cutting it.

With the shorter coil, I did not have enough heat.

This means I am closer. Could not combust today with a full bowl, 2 screens on bottom with short coil.
Its down to shitty batteries per bowl.
Paramour reads .1 Ohms, Evic reads .15
Short coil unfolded is 60 mm or 2.4".

The last one I had was 2" or 100mm. This was the original refolded to square size.
Going to make one 80 mm and see what happens.

I really know nothing about these mod boxes.
It seems the smaller lower resistance coil is eating up the battery.

Testing is on hold until my batteries shoe up.
David

Great battery! I use them. Lower ohms, needs more POWER!

My dual SS316L coils aren’t producing enough heat, even at 500f, maybe too low on deck. I’m going to abandon TC for now, and try in wattage mode, just have to be careful.... or smoke... instead of vapor...
 
Top Bottom