Have you tried changing the coil?
what temperatures were you using
coil lights up fine, adjusted temps to range between 395- 460, that wasnt the issue
had a facetime session w Alex @hazevaporizer who went over procedure step by step. He recommended I send it back
My working hypothesis is that it had the same problems that were reported here earlier. For some reason there is a slightly larger gap between the two sides or some malalignement. This, I think allows more air to enter than is permissible. alternatively and/or in addition, normally the heating element is actually very close to the pod ( i heard mentioned 1 mm somewhere and heats to 800 F), if the coil sits just a little further from the pod, say an extra mm. This wouldn't be noticeable by eye, but would have doubled the distance from heat source. at such small distances , initial heating of the herb perforce has to involve radiant heat as well. adding distance in this situation would be a killer-as radiant heat decreases as the forth power of distance from source.
This would explain the experience of many here who essentially "hack" normal operation to give it more heat-up time, by a variety of means. see at around 1: 20- 1: 30 .
In normal operations you press button continuously . it flashes blue and the coil heats up red hot ( radiant heat phase). then the green light comes on and the coil loses its redness. You are now supposed to keep pressing the button till the end of your draw. There is heat during this phase ( otherwise you could release- right ?) - but diminished ( not red), let us call this convective phase.
In addition, again, suggesting a problem w alignment. the interior part/ plate is accumulating small scratches in the black finish, which is not unlike this...see around 14-17 sec
The gentleman in the video is also doing a hack to get vapor. I refuse to do that. his hack will lead at the very least to frequent coil replacements and battery issues.
But if you observe his " hack" he is repeating the blue flashing phase ( also the phase when coil turns red - aka radiative phase). So he is essentially reinforcing the initial red hot radiative phase. this maneuver along with dialing up the temperatures, allows him to get vapor, but he occasionally combusts.
A slight malalignement would give you all of these, a. scratches. b. less heat. c too much air. With the extremely small distances we are talking about, a fraction of a mm is all we might need to have one unit with perfect vapor and the next one- nada.
Incidentally there are reports ( too lazy to look up ) of people who were able to fix there problem by tightening some of the interior hex screws using an allen wrench. again suggesting a problem w alignement of the two rotating parts .
Anyway that is my hypothesis. I would be curious if Alex validates or not
My position is that I spent a lot of money buying a device and it should work as designed from the get go - now it clearly isn't a device problem per se. because there are plenty of users who are very satisfied. However, some devices dont work as designed. Suggesting a quality control issue with the ( most probably ) contracted Chinese manufacturer. My guess is this will decrease as the manufacturing process matures. In the meanwhile, Alex ( @hazevaporizer) has assured me that they will take care of me. Heres to that. But so far in the 2-3 days it was with me-NO VAPOR period.