Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap

[RustyOldNail]

Thanks for the info. Shoot. I am definitely steering clear of glue.

Can you give me a better idea of what kind of silicone would work? I am not even sure how to search for it to buy.

So is there really any harm (other than aesthetically) not having something in top of it?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GL9MHW7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Above is the sheet of silicone I bought to use to make small spacers, that I put on top of the glass button, and was recommended by Jeff. It’s TOO THIN, to use by itself, without the glass button, but I’m sure there are thicker versions available. At least on the version I linked to, one side of the silicone pad, has some thin self stick adhesive that can be rubbed off, I wanted to be able to remove it when desired, and was unsure if the adhesive would get too hot when a VC was pressed down on it. Since you would be using it to REPLACE your missing button, you would would need a THICKER piece. I can’t access the button on mine to measure my button thickness with calipers, but the button is probably 2-3mm thick. Jeff could answer that.

I’ve read on other IH units, sold by others like Pipes, that some use CORK, as a spacer over their switch. I would think any hard material without being glued may wobble a bit, as the switch in the FD is not perfectly flat. But a thick silicone pad should work. This is what I may try, if and when my button comes off again.

The reason there is a button on top of the switch, was to potentially protect the switch from any excess heat from VC cap, and it creates a flat surface. I’m not sure if using the IH without anything on the switch, would eventually be bad for it, though it does work. Without any spacer or glass button on a naked switch, also means you would probably have to adjust the coil itself, to compensate for the now lower sitting VC depth, the DEEPER the VC goes into the coil, the SLOWER the cap will CLICK. Jeff adjusts his coil to the appropriate depth with his glass spacer installed. Another reason, if you are not comfortable doing a coil adjustment, to let Jeff do it.

You could always email Jeff, ask his opinion, or consider sending it to him to re-glue a glass button on yours. I’m assuming he is still doing maintenance repairs?

 

[Jill NYC]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GL9MHW7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Above is the sheet of silicone I bought to use to make small spacers, that I put on top of the glass button, and was recommended by Jeff. It’s TOO THIN, to use by itself, without the glass button, but I’m sure there are thicker versions available. At least on the version I linked to, one side of the silicone pad, has some thin self stick adhesive that can be rubbed off, I wanted to be able to remove it when desired, and was unsure if the adhesive would get too hot when a VC was pressed down on it. Since you would be using it to REPLACE your missing button, you would would need a THICKER piece. I can’t access the button on mine to measure my button thickness with calipers, but the button is probably 2-3mm thick. Jeff could answer that.

I’ve read on other IH units, sold by others like Pipes, that some use CORK, as a spacer over their switch. I would think any hard material without being glued may wobble a bit, as the switch in the FD is not perfectly flat. But a thick silicone pad should work. This is what I may try, if and when my button comes off again.

The reason there is a button on top of the switch, was to potentially protect the switch from any excess heat from VC cap, and it creates a flat surface. I’m not sure if using the IH without anything on the switch, would eventually be bad for it, though it does work. Without any spacer or glass button on a naked switch, also means you would probably have to adjust the coil itself, to compensate for the now lower sitting VC depth, the DEEPER the VC goes into the coil, the SLOWER the cap will CLICK. Jeff adjusts his coil to the appropriate depth with his glass spacer installed. Another reason, if you are not comfortable doing a coil adjustment, to let Jeff do it.

You could always email Jeff, ask his opinion, or consider sending it to him to re-glue a glass button on yours. I’m assuming he is still doing maintenance repairs?

Thanks so much for this @RustyOldNail - super helpful for me.
Tbh, I have reached out to Jeff a few times over past month and haven’t heard back, but FC’ers always come to the rescue!

 

[Aalberti13]

Tbh, I have reached out to Jeff a few times over past month and haven’t heard back, but FC’ers always come to the rescue!

You are not the only one. I sent him my FD for repairs a couple weeks ago and had good communication with him right up until he shipped my device back to me.

On the tracking number that was emailed to me from USPS on 3/26 he left me this message: "Hi Anthony, your heater is fixed and on its way back to you. I'll explain the issue in a separate email. Best, -Jeff M."

That was the last I heard from him. I never received a follow up email and even sent him an email a few days later on 3/30 asking him what I owed him for the repairs. Still haven't received anything back from him. I guess most people would be happy that they didn't have to pay anything, but maybe I am weird by preferring him to be compensated for his time helping me out. Either way, I just hope everything is okay with him. Hopefully he took a well deserved vacation!

Anyways, if you happen to see this Jeff, shoot me an email and let me know how much I owe you!

 

[ElMismo]

My flite does its job perfectly, click after click, for more than a year.

Robust and precise.

Too bad the ‘temp control mirage’ and the ban scared him away.

 

[TommyDee]

Jeff wouldn't have minded a temp control challenge but fucking with USPS and ATF was a different story. Juul and others basically won their lobbying pressure campaign and took out arguably the best heater available.

 

[coolbreeze]

My flite does its job perfectly, click after click, for more than a year.

Robust and precise.

My experience, too. Great for hiking and reefer roasting.

arguably the best heater available.

It's a classic: carefully crafted, innovative, custom made, built like a tank. I sincerely hope everyone eventually gets to share the joy.

 

[acstorfer]

Jeff wouldn't have minded a temp control challenge but fucking with USPS and ATF was a different story. Juul and others basically won their lobbying pressure campaign and took out arguably the best heater available.

?????

I'm a bit out of the loop. Is there a thread explaining what happened?

 

[coolbreeze]

?????

I'm a bit out of the loop. Is there a thread explaining what happened?

Nothing as exciting as it sounds. He just paused for the implementation of the USPS rules about shipping vaporizers; it looked like he could be on the hook according to the new rules. It's all in the last several pages of the Fluxer thread. I don't think it's cleared up much, despite the fact that other venders seem like they don't expect to be affected.

 

[TommyDee]

?????

I'm a bit out of the loop. Is there a thread explaining what happened?

what @coolbreeze said. Jeff didn't want to run afoul with the law on shipping potentially banned devices.

 

[ElMismo]

Good reasons for sure.
Just seems like a stolen opportunity.
Again, great product! Luv my flite!

 

[acstorfer]

Nothing as exciting as it sounds. He just paused for the implementation of the USPS rules about shipping vaporizers; it looked like he could be on the hook according to the new rules. It's all in the last several pages of the Fluxer thread. I don't think it's cleared up much, despite the fact that other venders seem like they don't expect to be affected.

what @coolbreeze said. Jeff didn't want to run afoul with the law on shipping potentially banned devices.

Gotcha! I thought that was resolved a while ago, and Jeff was going back to building. He just had a lot of projects that needed his more immediate attention.

 

[TommyDee]

I don't think anything got clarified to our benefit. I do remember that post.

 

[mr_cfromcali]

Hi folks,

I'm very sorry for my poor communication.

Unfortunately, I have not made any change to Fluxer's status: Fluxer's new sales are still on hold, but I continue to service existing heaters.

Last year, Paypal, the PACT Act, and the still-ongoing pandemic each kicked my butt. I am not in this to make a fortune, and the money I was making from selling these things wasn't worth the stress and aggravation I was experiencing. It had stopped being fun, and I was very stressed out by it all. I needed to take a break.

That break has continued because a) the issues I mention above haven't gone away, and b) I have some family members that need my time at the moment, and I want to be present for them.

I would like to sell some new heaters again once my situation improves, but that is still some months away. Until I can give this business the attention it really needs, I am going to keep my head down and focus on other priorities.

I will try to do better at communicating my status, and I will certainly let this thread know as soon as my situation changes.

I am sorry I don't have better news, but that's where things stand. Thank you for understanding, and thank you for your support.

Cheers,

 

[jbm]

Hi folks,

I'm very sorry for my poor communication.

Unfortunately, I have not made any change to Fluxer's status: Fluxer's new sales are still on hold, but I continue to service existing heaters.

Last year, Paypal, the PACT Act, and the still-ongoing pandemic each kicked my butt. I am not in this to make a fortune, and the money I was making from selling these things wasn't worth the stress and aggravation I was experiencing. It had stopped being fun, and I was very stressed out by it all. I needed to take a break.

That break has continued because a) the issues I mention above haven't gone away, and b) I have some family members that need my time at the moment, and I want to be present for them.

I would like to sell some new heaters again once my situation improves, but that is still some months away. Until I can give this business the attention it really needs, I am going to keep my head down and focus on other priorities.

I will try to do better at communicating my status, and I will certainly let this thread know as soon as my situation changes.

I am sorry I don't have better news, but that's where things stand. Thank you for understanding, and thank you for your support.

Cheers,

Your family and well being are much more important than any induction heater. I hope your situation improves and you are afforded some relief.

 

[mr_cfromcali]

Your family and well being are much more important than any induction heater. I hope your situation improves and you are afforded some relief.

Thanks! And just so people aren't left worrying, my family situation isn't dire, but it is the better place for me to put my time and energy at the moment.

 

[Texus]

Yeah man, focus on the family and your well-being. We'll be psyched when/if you rejoin the IH space. But take care and you and yours above all.

 

[Jill NYC]

So I think I found a solution for my missing piece without glue or sending back…

The quartz bowl I use for my Prrl Neo Terp Surfer seems to be the exact circumference as the glass protector next to coils.
It is slightly shorter and thinner but the o-ring fits around nicely.
Does this seem like a safe option?
I tried it once with fine results, but wanted to make sure I wasn’t doing something dangerous.

 

[RustyOldNail]

So I think I found a solution for my missing piece without glue or sending back…

The quartz bowl I use for my Prrl Neo Terp Surfer seems to be the exact circumference as the glass protector next to coils.
It is slightly shorter and thinner but the o-ring fits around nicely.
Does this seem like a safe option?
I tried it once with fine results, but wanted to make sure I wasn’t doing something dangerous.

Looks interesting. I assume the cup version is slightly less in diameter, as my inserts are very tight fitting and therefore would not be able to move down to activate the switch below. So just make sure your glass cup doesn’t get stuck in the down position, or the unit will stay on. The only other consideration is the thickness of the glass walls can have a slight effect on the heat cycle. If Jeff’s website is still maintained, he had tests of different Glass thicknesses, as at one time he offered them. If you are happy with the heating you are getting, then that’s a moot issue. The only way to tune, is moving the coil up or down, or add spacers.

 

[TommyDee]

You know Jeff would fix you right up @Jill NYC . If all you need is the thin disk, that can be sent by envelope and a forever stamp. Give him a holler in DM.

One thing I've noticed when I used a glass vial was that the cap would heat the bottom of the vial and it would get very hot. I don't know if it is hot enough to melt the button on the switch or not but I suspect it could under certain conditions.

 

[mr_cfromcali]

@Jill NYC

Thanks for the info. Shoot. I am definitely steering clear of glue.

Can you give me a better idea of what kind of silicone would work? I am not even sure how to search for it to buy.

So is there really any harm (other than aesthetically) not having something in top of it?

Hi Jill,

I am sorry, I didn't see your post until this evening.

I am currently/have recently been using these 8mm ceramic discs as replacements for the glass buttons:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HQZJI6I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

They are as difficult to glue as the glass discs*, but they adhere much better and seem more durable. We'll see.

*If one is determined to glue this oneself:

WARNING: It's easy to screw up! The risk of ruining the switch is very real. All it takes is one stray drop of glue.

But if one is determined to try, use this stuff: KISS Molecular Adhesive

Prep the surface of the switch with sandpaper to remove the old glue residue. If you've got cannabis residue on the switch...wash the area down with iso, and hope for the best. Glue doesn't stick to oil.

Finally, when it is time to apply the glue:

1. Bend the coil over to fully expose the switch. Be gentle, the coil is made of copper and bends easily.
2. Put one drop of glue on a piece of cardboard or similar.
3. Using tweezers:
   1. place the ceramic button on the drop of glue
   2. lift it off of the drop of glue
   3. place it/blot it once on the cardboard surface
   4. place it directly on the top of the switch. DO NOT WIGGLE IT AROUND, or you might cause some glue to run!

Or send it to me (email me first, as usual) and I'll do that.

Hopefully that helps you and others in your situation.

 

[Ashtonbutcher]

Hi @mr_cfromcali
Ive been trying to reach out to you, but i have had no luck so far so i hope i can get your attention here. Sorry if it is the wrong place.

I have been very happy with my flux deluxe (v2.0c) for quite a long time now, however a few days ago it started to blink red whenever i turned the switch on. It doesnt heat up anything either. While trying to look for anything obvious wrong with the board, i saw this small component detached and on the bottom of the metal case. Can this be the problem? Ive tried to provide you with these two pictures linked below:

Board
Component


Thank you so much for making such an amazing product.

 

[mr_cfromcali]

Replied via DM

 

[Dr. Dad]

Hey y’all, where can I get a black knob for my Flix?

 

[TommyDee]

The guy who posted above you ;] Just send him a DM.

 

[Dr. Dad]

What’s the difference between Flix V1 and V2?