Mr C hooked me up in January. I don't believe he will ever stop backing up his products.My FD completely stopped working.
I’m really sad.
I sent an email to Mr.C already.
Heating for couple seconds, FD shut down automatically.
No LED turns on.
I wish Mr.C still continues customer support.
I’m waiting for good reply email.
Thank you. I've had it for a few years now, it's one of my favorite things. I got it to kind of reward myself for fuckin combustion. Good ol' Uncle Doo Dah was the design also etched into the little wooden dugout I had carried for decades, and gave up using in the process. I use this around the house these days while the Flite comes hiking. Great work, still kickin'!What a beauty. Is it new or in use? Beautiful in both cases!
You should ask if this can be repaired. The BMS is not working correctly and stressing the shit out of that one cell. It is not good for a cell to ever go below 3.2 V and that one will die long before the others.When I charge my Flite through the bms one of the batteries doesn’t seem to charge completely. When it’s starts talking way too long to click, I take the batteries out and put them in a separate charger. 2 of the batteries are at 4v and the other is barely 3. I have done this with the black included batteries and another set of people batteries.
Does anyone know which tactile switch used for Flux Deluxe?
I tried to connect Mr.C, but no response.
My FD needs to replace switch.
Thanks! I’ll try to find this model!!From my old Fluxer Deluxe notes:
“Yes, the switch is replaceable. It's a standard tactile switch with 4 leads, one at each corner. I have plenty, so I'll include a spare with the PCB.
The switch manufacturer is MEC. The p/n is 5ESH920 for the "gull wing" version; the through-hole version is p/n 5ETH920, and it will also work. It's the same switch, but the gull wing version can be hard to find sometimes, so the through-hole version can be substituted in a pinch if you trim the leads.
Use a soldering iron to remove the old switch, not a heat gun. I've found it is easiest to free one side of the switch, lift it slightly, then free the other side. You can bend the heating coil straight backwards to get it out of the way - the copper wire bends easily. Bend it back when you are done.”