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@DarkBidding - You have PWM down very well with the chicken analogy. As to how the PWM is working; the blink rate is the PWM - it is a very-very-very-very slow PWM obviously. Jeff has made sure you can dial out most of the heating if you want, where the 300/0 and 0/300 is the range. Not sure if there is a little at the ends but the idea is that you can get more pause than heat if you want.
The coil size has more to do with the power of your oven for the chicken. You can burn it in 10 minutes or 6 minutes. Basically, a 15mm coil is aggressive at full power and a 17mm coil is very is more forgiving and never delivers the intense heat a 15mm coil can. You can look at it as being the max power capability. I can see concentrate users liking 15mm coils but they do pull a bit more current. Basically, this is the motor in your car; hot rod [15mm], utility [16mm], or daily commuter [17mm].
The first adjustment is user selectable. The second is the user's choice. The third is bake time and this is important to understand about vapcaps - The clicker is a 'delay'. The caps gets hot -shares the heat with the tip [chamber] and then it lets the heat migrate slowly to the clicker. And it decides to finally tell you - "hey man, your loads done - It think - maybe"... Everything important has happened already. So what do you think will happened when you have a hyper-heater? Let's see; the cap is heating excessively - the rate of thermal conduction to the tip is slower than the heat transfer to the clicker - The clicker clicks and the tip [chamber] isn't even heat-soaked yet. Put a Ti tip in there and poof, combustion as more heat made it through the walls of the tip. That is what happened to Orion V1. It was so fast that the clicker clicked and the bake was still in progress or the heat was simply too intense. Every cap combination is very different in the vaping experience.
So I have given up on fast bakes and say an 8-10 second bake is a consistent bake in many IHs. Go 15 seconds and you get even better quality vape. This is exactly about heat soaking. Bringing everything up to temp about the same time and the clicker clicks when everything is right. This is the 3rd adjustment - how deep is the cap in the coil. In these small coils, this adjustment is mere millimeters. You want the actual heat to travel to the clicker, not the IH heating the flat end of the cap. Since the focus of the energy is centered in the coil [spherical, not axial] the tip area of the cap gets the most energy, maybe slightly below tip-center. Now the only way for the clicker to get hot is to allow the heat to travel along the body of the cap and eventually click. The beauty of all this is that most regular caps will click at about the same bake. This was a welcome surprise. The combination of reducing the overall power and tuning the depth of the cap made for highly reliable bakes and consistent bakes between caps.
Notice that I am not mixing PWM in with the basic elements of induction heating. It really isn't necessary if you have a fairly straight forward use-case. For the most part, it is a very reliable heart-beat to count by. But the PWM does tame a 15mm heater or do some fine flavor pulls with a 17mm coil, or anything in between. PWM becomes the fine tune lacking in all other heaters.
On an aside, the power an IH pulls is a great indicator of how it is operating. I like to limit my IH to 70 watts. I find that 80+ watts tends to put a lot of reclaim on the walls of my wooden stems. Even with PWM, the heat spikes this higher temperature into the caps as well. This is the difference between a true PWM which regulates digitally vs. this 'delay' that a Fluxer PWM instills. There are some guidelines as to which coil option may work best for a user that knows their style of vaping. I'm a heavy hitter but I still prefer a bit of PWM - 80%-ON and a power level of around 70 watts on a 16mm coil. I tune for George's take on VapCaps - cook once - cool to click - cook again and draw like heck. Okay, so I also take a draw on the first heating which is sanctioned by George but this method does highlight one thing - if you don't want to combust, ever, if you are paying attention - the first bake should never 'rip'... the second should. If you tune the ingress depth of your cap in the IH based on this second heating to whatever edge you want AT THE CLICK, you will find that all your caps will behave similarly. And this is fucking awesome! I have 5 tips and caps and I can cycle them all without worry of combustion. Each one will draw at the click and each one will deliver heaven on the second draw. The first is no slouch either - flavor and vape should be coming through if you are normally a hard hitter.
There is a lot there so let me know where and if I lost you.
![:\](https://fuckcombustion.com/i/s/hmm.gif ":\")
The heating time of the 12V 10A adapter feels just a little too fast for me.
