Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Is not also one of the differences from the switch and the cap as switch, that the first one need both hands and on the cap as switch only one hand. Taking the vapcap and dip it in the chamber and the heating begins vs take the vapcap put it in the chamber and then push the button to begin heating? For me this is a big advantage from the cap as switch the one handed operation when the heater is set down on the table or so.
This it true. I haven't thought through the concept as it was originally concepted by @phattpiggie but that might be because remote switches were rare outside of DIY. DIY sip'd and dip'd alike with the added reach for the power button. Having a remote switch is an extra action. 2 hands however is not required. I have dropped the CV in the chamber to reach for the button so in the case of having the heater parked, one handed is still simple. If I'm holding the heater anyway, it is a two handed operation already. I fire with the hand holding the VC or I fire with the hand holding the heater. The very elegance of Vapcaps is the ability to separate the works from the engine.

The CaS option is a low pressure switch that does simplify PP Sip-n-Dip process.
 
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vapormachina

Well-Known Member
this is a device for pocket, would you recommend carbon fiber? or do you think glass is safe enough? it seems well protected and difficult to break🤔
 
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mecrobs

Member
You're killing me, Tommy, lol. I AM THE BOTTLENECK! Having more distributors only helps if I can crank out more heaters.

Updated to add: Tomy's post above mine is FANTASTIC (!!!) and I strongly endorse it! His notes on battery capacity and Flite power usage are definitive. This man KNOWS that of which he speaks. :bowdown:

OK, now I'm off to edit video...
If you need some help just send me the parts and I'll start cranking some out for ya lol
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
I'm in the glass camp always @dantemaniaco . However, if the added robustness is attractive, the option is available. As Jeff noted, the lights will be more subdued.

If carrying the Fluxer Flite in a pocket is a normal thing, I will recommend a simple pouch for the heater. I've come to love the pristine appearance of Goldie and FireFlite enough so that I can't even get myself to put the cap on a corner either. There is no way I can put it in a pocket with keys in it. Having said that, I also can't see what I'd have in my pockets that could break the glass. There is that 1-in-nnnn possibility of course. In a pouch, that risk is somewhere around astronomical.

I've already stated I would have a tough time deciding @FunkShui. If you are happy with a conventional chamber switch, the CaS will continue that functionality.
 

mecrobs

Member
interesting! can anyone else weigh in? this is what i'm deciding between
To me, the only advantage of the button is that your able to hit it while heating. Hard to do when you are pushing the switch in the camber or using the cap as switch option. So if you'd like the option to try out heating while ripping go with the button. Also with the button like Tommy said you can drop some cork in there to raise the depth to adjust the heating time. If you dont care for all the experimenting with cap placement and heating times and just want to hit it I'd stick with cap as switch. Long story short the button give your more options as to how you go about heating and hitting your bowl. Cap as switch is just simple and to the point. Drop it in and wait for the click. I guess you can play with the PWM for either as well so there's that also. I'm gonna go with cap as switch personally.
 

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
the only advantage of the button is that your able to hit it while heating.

At the risk of even more than my usual pedantry:
  • The button allows you to use the entire vertical column of the coil, giving you the greatest range of heating options.
  • The cap-as-switch requires touching the tip to the bottom of the coil to activate the heater.
It's completely fine if you don't need the heater's full range and/or prefer the convenience of the cap-as-switch. I just want to be clear about the differences in the way the two methods perform, to minimize any buyer's remorse later. I can always add the push button (and/or remove the shunts) if you find you don't like them.
 

Prophecy

Well-Known Member
Where the cap as switch could still be beneficial is that is no must to turn the heater complete off while put in a pocket, because he can not get accidently activated in contrast to the switch activation.
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Where the cap as switch could still be beneficial is that is no must to turn the heater complete off while put in a pocket, because he can not get accidently activated in contrast to the switch activation.
Jeff chose a particularly nice switch for remote activation. Its plastic button pushes nearly flush with the bezel when activated. This would require purposeful activation in a pocket. An empty jacket pocket or alike will not allow the switch to activate. Sitting on it might.

Of course, the off-switch is there for all the right reasons. If there is a chance something pushes the button with purpose in or through your clothing, it will activate the heater. These things do demand a reasonable level of respect. I think you'll like the switch Jeff choose for this function with these considerations in mind.

And @mecrobs brings up the real-time heating option. Yes, a remote button is all about being able to drink the vape from a cap. Along with PWM, can you dial in a consistent heating rate that you can draw? Most IHs will over-power you and combust. Fluxer heaters with PWM can get past that. Just turn the heat down! ;] Okay, it is an acquired technique but I know a lot of you are closet vape-drinkers, know it or not.

If you try to heat while drawing from your VC with a chamber switch in your IH, you know it is a PITA to modulate the switch. The remote switch could be considered a requirement for this technique. It has been my goto reason for having a remote switch - to modulate the heat manually without having to adjust my draw in any way while the heater is in place. Modulation of the switch simply means I want to turn it off and on at will. MFLB owners will understand that one ;]

Crap, and now that I said all that, a remote switch on a water pipe seems virtually required. No need to lower and raise the heater, just modulate the switch. Flix users already know this.
 
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TommyDee

Vaporitor
I do around the house vaping and dropping it into my baggy shorts is no issue. Where I see accidental, and more importantly over an extended period of activation time that will trip the thermal fuse is throwing it in a backpack and having it rest against a hard object. I could couch Flite in a pair or sweats and I'd be hard pressed to do an accidental trip for even a moment, much less an extended exposure. It is by no means a hair trigger. It does require a complete press before it activates.

Murphy is my next door neighbor 🤨 We're besties.
 

Prophecy

Well-Known Member
Jeff chose a particularly nice switch for remote activation. Its plastic button pushes nearly flush with the bezel when activated. This would require purposeful activation in a pocket. An empty jacket pocket or alike will not allow the switch to activate. Sitting on it might.

Of course, the off-switch is there for all the right reasons. If there is a chance something pushes the button with purpose in or through your clothing, it will activate the heater. These things do demand a reasonable level of respect. I think you'll like the switch Jeff choose for this function with these considerations in mind.

I will choose the cap switch, because I also like the more smoother design and the other advantages for my usage style.

I toke after heating click to cool down click with several mouth to lung draws, no need for me to activate the heater while drawing :)
 

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Hi all, a quick update on where I'm at with things:

I just updated the Fluxer web site with Flite info: https://fluxerheaters.com/flite . I've repurposed some of the images and content I've already posted in this thread. It needs more work and more images, but it's a start.

The Flite announcement/demo video is done and I'll be uploading that next. Huzzah!

AFTER that, I'll add the Flite to the store. I am doing things in the above order to provide as much useful content for you as possible before you make a purchasing decision. I'm sorry for the long wait while I work through this stuff, but that's sort of the nature of these things. Thank you for your patience.

I'll post here again after I've shared the video, and then again when the first batch of Flite is live in the store.

My plan at the moment is to limit the first batch or ~25 or so, which is also the number of PCBs I have prepped. Another 30 pairs of Flite PCBs arrived today, so I'll have more available next week once I stuff the new arrivals with components.

One thing I haven't discussed in detail yet are the case colors. I had five "standard" case colors made in quantity: Black, Gun Metal, Dark Green, Blue, and Red. I also have a limited number of cases in several other colors my vendor had from previous runs of this case. These limited color choices include gold and the two other shades of green: bright green and hunter green. I don't know if or when I will be able to get more of these limited colors in stock; they may be one-time items. I am sorry in advance is this causes any issues or hurt feelings.

Thank you @TommyDee for filling in for me and answering questions while I bang away at the keyboard on other stuff.

OK off to deal with the video stuff. Back in a bit. ;)
 

Texus

Well-Known Member
Lots of us already know we want these without additional info being put on the website. And I'm bummed that it looks like the store won't be ready before the bedtime of us East Coasters. Especially with stock available down to just 25 units.

Just my 2 cents as an early-to-bed guy.
 
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