Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
I was about to pull the trigger but I think the flight is what I should wait for. My indecisiveness always does this to me. My apologies on any inconvenience.

No worries, not a problem ;)

Also curious if you've considered a small circle swivel hinge that covers the coil & glass to prevent any pocket lint or debris from entering the device. Just a suggestion but I'm sure that would add to cost and take extra time. Can't wait till October🙏

Yes! I thought of this exact thing, and then envisioned the exact consequences you mention several words later. ;) It would be great to be able to do this, and maybe it will happen at some point, but I have no means of doing this now without adding $$ to the cost of what is already a kinda pricey device.

Some people use a disposable earplug to cap their Flux Deluxe heater hole and keep out debris:

RAD-FP80-A.jpg


That isn't as sleek as the swiveled cap you suggested, but it's cheap, practical, and available now. ;)

I'll keep thinking on this. Maybe I can come up with a way to offer something like that as option in the future.
 
OK, I'm back home today and will begin fulfilling the most recent Flix orders. I hope to get them all out within a few days. Thank you for your support!
Hallelujah! Hopefully in the order they were placed as if I recall I had my order in by 5am Central lol 😳

Cannot wait to add another level of customization with the VV too!
 
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wibbleplonk

Well-Known Member
I've been holding out on getting an IH until I could get my hands on a Fluxer unit. Finally bagged a Flix this round!

Does anyone know if the carbon fiber inserts are compatible with the Flix? International shipping would make repairs expensive so I'm hoping to make the unit a bit more robust.

I emailed @mr_cfromcali about this but understand they're travelling and very busy with the new project.
 
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I've been holding out on getting an IH until I could get my hands on a Fluxer unit. Finally bagged a Flix this round!

Does anyone know if the carbon fiber inserts are compatible with the Flix? International shipping would make repairs expensive so I'm hoping to make the unit a bit more robust.

I emailed @mr_cfromcali about this but understand they're travelling and very busy with the new project.
Try messaging him thru here, although I will be surprised if he doesn't see this and reply. He just sent me thin and thick CF inserts for my delux. Don't see why he couldn't include these for you.
 
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Copacetic

Somewhere North of The Wall
Fluxwad. LOL. :lol:

OK, I'm back home today and will begin fulfilling the most recent Flix orders. I hope to get them all out within a few days. Thank you for your support!





This. The Flite is going to be available in 15mm only, but you will have several different methods available to alter the heating cycle:

1. Insertion depth - hey, stop snickering. ;) . My thinking on this subject has evolved, and with the Flite I', making Dynavap insertion depth independent from triggering the heater. This makes the Flite's coil setup different than that of my other heaters. This approach was first suggested to me 60 or 70 pages earlier in this thread by another FC member, and at that time I was dismissive of the idea as I preferred the convenience of the under-the-coil switch. I've come around over time, however, and now see a lot of merit in this other approach.

After thinking far too hard on this stuff, I finally had an epiphany about the interaction between the vapcap tip and the bottom loop of the coil. I think this relationship (i.e., "distance") between the bottom coil loop and the vapcap tip is the key to the whole Dynavap/IH experience. Too close and the load never truly gets hot enough to deliver a satisfying hit, while too great a distance leads to combustion. That represents the full range of heating, by the way, from "too cool" to "too hot," so that means the ideal temp is in there somewhere. ;) Whenever possible, I try to use this gap to give you the Dynavap experience you want, as I think it is an excellent way to alter and adjust the Dynavap user experience

I am not the only person to realize this, obviously - it's something I think all experienced Dynavap users "get" at a certain point - but formulating this idea as a statement enables me make it a design goal, and I keep it in the center of my ideas about coil design. The Flite's coil is built to encourage you to move the Dynavap up or down a bit within the coil to find the best depth for YOU. This position will vary from person to person, and will also likely change as the battery capacity gets depleted during use - a weakening battery's "electrical sag" adds its own special sauce to the IH heating process.

The benefits of this approach are somewhat akin to those of a manual transmission vs. an automatic: you have a huge amount of control, and the better you understand how this setup is intended to work, the more you will get from using it. The Flite gives you a tremendous degree of control over how quickly the vapcap tip becomes hot enough to click. You will be able to use technique here, similar to using a torch. I'll have more to say about this as we get closer to launch, but I think the experienced users will like this a lot.

2. PWM

If you go back to the very first post I made in this thread, you will see that it was a post about using PWM to control an IH. I am finally bringing this to market with the Flite, but I want to point out that this actually an idea I have been kicking around for several years.

Low frequency PWM pulses the heater on and off slowly (a few times per second) and this on/off action extends the heating time. This, in turn, allows for better heat penetration through the vapcap and into the walls of the tip.

Between the PWM and the ability to vary insertion depth, I think you will have a lot of means of controlling and shaping your heating experience with this new heater.

Given all of that, plus the need to keep this thing operating as efficiently as possible for longer battery life, I am going to use the 15mm coil with this, as it is very efficient, is already hot, and can be tamed as above as necessary. Unless testing indicates otherwise. ;)

Edit1: Edited for clarity.
Have you considered simply putting a slim rivnut (AKA press-nuts or clinch nuts) through the case beneath the coil? A grub screw could be inserted allowing the user to vary insert depth 'set and forget' hands free style, and enjoy the benefits of the manual control without having to pay attention to how deep they're holding the VC (it would simply rest on the tip of the grub screw at the chosen depth).
I don't know how much room there is beneath the coil for this in the Flite, but it would make decisions re' coil size etc MUCH easier to make if it could fit, as one size coil would then fit all. And no need for adjustable electronics then as well.
I often thought that if the Flux (and most other induction heaters) didn't have the switch beneath the coil then there might be room. Tight space on the Flite though.

I'm so glad tiny IH designs are now emerging, I love my portside mini, but a truly pocketable unit is going to rule, well done sirra, I will be watching your site!
 
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mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Does anyone know if the carbon fiber inserts are compatible with the Flix? International shipping would make repairs expensive so I'm hoping to make the unit a bit more robust.

I emailed @mr_cfromcali about this but understand they're travelling and very busy with the new project.

Yes, the Flix can use the carbon fiber inserts, and you can request one instead of glass. I don't make a fuss about this as the device already has a lot of options, but yes, we can do that if I know about ti ahead of time.

Sorry I didn't see (or have not yet seen your email, @wibbleplonk . Please PM me here with your email address so I can find your order. I generally prefer email over PMs for Fluxer, but I seem to have dropped the ball on this one. Sorry.


A few quick updates:

Flix orders: I will start shipping Flix orders from the current batch today, in the order I received them. Thanks for your patience, everyone.

Flux Deluxe emails: I haven't forgotten that I need to get out the October 2019 FD emails, but I haven't gotten to them yet, either. I will work on this after I fulfill the current Flix orders.

Have you considered simply putting a slim rivnut (AKA press-nuts or clinch nuts) through the case beneath the coil? A grub screw could be inserted allowing the user to vary insert depth 'set and forget' hands free style, and enjoy the benefits of the manual control without having to pay attention to how deep they're holding the VC (it would simply rest on the tip of the grub screw at the chosen depth).
I don't know how much room there is beneath the coil for this in the Flite, but it would make decisions re' coil size etc MUCH easier to make if it could fit, as one size coil would then fit all. And no need for adjustable electronics then as well.
I often thought that if the Flux (and most other induction heaters) didn't have the switch beneath the coil then there might be room. Tight space on the Flite though.

I'm so glad tiny IH designs are now emerging, I love my portside mini, but a truly pocketable unit is going to rule, well done sirra, I will be watching your site!

Hi @Copacetic , no I hadn't considered that. Thank you for the suggestion. I see some issues with that approach, but I am currently looking at other ways of accomplishing a similar goal.

>I don't know how much room there is beneath the coil for this in the Flite,

Sorry, but there's no room. The real estate on the PCB is all spoken for, including the paths I use to run wire traces. I can't put a hole under the coil or through that space, it is all occupied, and there is no room to move those items elsewhere.

The Flite's electronics fit very tightly within its case. Every dimension is a tight fit. As an example of how tight things are, I even reduced the circuit board thicknesses to gain more room vertically within the case. A typical circuit board is 1.6mm thick, but you can order them thinner. For the Flite, I'm using 1mm thick circuit boards so I can gain an exra 1.2mm of interior height (the base PCB + the control panel PCB). I need it, as there is only ~0.5mm clearance between the interior components and the underside of the lid. It's that tight.

Voltaire wasn't wrong when he wrote that "the perfect is the enemy of the good." The Flite will be as good as I can make it, but it won't be perfect. I will do my best to tackle any fatal flaws before they leave the shop, but I do want to get these heaters out of my shop and into people's hands as soon the design proves itself to be stable and complete.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Cheers
 
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Copacetic

Somewhere North of The Wall
Yes, the Flix can use the carbon fiber inserts, and you can request one instead of glass. I don't make a fuss about this as the device already has a lot of options, but yes, we can do that if I know about ti ahead of time.

Sorry I didn't see (or have not yet seen your email, @wibbleplonk . Please PM me here with your email address so I can find your order. I generally prefer email over PMs for Fluxer, but I seem to have dropped the ball on this one. Sorry.


A few quick updates:

Flix orders: I will start shipping Flix orders from the current batch today, in the order I received them. Thanks for your patience, everyone.

Flux Deluxe emails: I haven't forgotten that I need to get out the October 2019 FD emails, but I haven't gotten to them yet, either. I will work on this after I fulfill the current Flix orders.



Hi @Copacetic , no I hadn't considered that. Thank you for the suggestion. I see some issues with that approach, but I am currently looking at other ways of accomplishing a similar goal.

>I don't know how much room there is beneath the coil for this in the Flite,

Sorry, but there's no room. The real estate on the PCB is all spoken for, including the paths I use to run wire traces. I can't put a hole under the coil or through that space, it is all occupied, and there is no room to move those items elsewhere.

The Flite's electronics fit very tightly within its case. Every dimension is a tight fit. As an example of how tight things are, I even reduced the circuit board thicknesses to gain more room vertically within the case. A typical circuit board is 1.6mm thick, but you can order them thinner. For the Flite, I'm using 1mm thick circuit boards so I can gain an exra 1.2mm of interior height (the base PCB + the control panel PCB). I need it, as there is less than .5mm clearance between the interior components and the underside of the lid. It's that tight.

Voltaire wasn't wrong when he wrote that "the perfect is the enemy of the good." The Flite will be as good as I can make it, but it won't be perfect. I will do my best to tackle any fatal flaws before they leave the shop, but I do want to get these heaters out of my shop and into people's hands as soon the design proves itself to be stable and complete.

Thanks for the suggestion.

Cheers
That's TIGHT, like Terry Crews tightened your pickle jar tight!
Keep it up man [bows]
 
Voltaire wasn't wrong when he wrote that "the perfect is the enemy of the good." The Flite will be as good as I can make it, but it won't be perfect. I will do my best to tackle any fatal flaws before they leave the shop, but I do want to get these heaters out of my shop and into people's hands as soon the design proves itself to be stable and complete.
Don't forget about Fluxwad numero Uno if you need beta testers😎.
 

FunkShui

Well-Known Member
This is just a random thought, and forgive me if this isn't on topic - I'm about to receive my Orion in the mail, but I'm actually more excited to get my fluxer deluxe. I think the reason is that the Orion looks so cheap and the dark green aluminum (?) of the FD looks sleek and the light has a retro feel to it. I'd pay for a case similar to the FD to place my Orion into. Could just have two cutouts, one for the dyna and one for the indicator light. Maybe a button which presses the orion button on the side for on/off? I wonder how many Orions sold and if that'd be a worthwhile venture
 
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Lynch

Well-Known Member
mr_cfromcali

The Flix arrived today and I just gotta say, great job on designing it, it works perfect! I opted for the 16mm coil with the medium-thin glass insert and it just heats up the titanium tip really quick, around 3 seconds or so, and the taste of the vapour and everything was just right, got a good 4 to 5 hits before I cleared the bowl.

I was hoping you could chime in on the power requirements of the FLIX. I got the 120W laptop-style brick 12VDC 10A power adapter, but it is definitely on the larger side and doesn't match the FLIX's small size in a way that looks balanced.

Another issue I ran into was my generic China-made power adapter has a long power cord to the outlet, but the power cord that is after the brick, that is plugged into the FLIX is on the shorter side.

Is there any options out there that will have a longer "FLIX-side" cord and work great? I don't care if I have to order it from Amazon.com or wherever, as long as it works great! Hope someone his a good solution figured out for an AC adapter.
 

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
mr_cfromcali

The Flix arrived today and I just gotta say, great job on designing it, it works perfect! I opted for the 16mm coil with the medium-thin glass insert and it just heats up the titanium tip really quick, around 3 seconds or so, and the taste of the vapour and everything was just right, got a good 4 to 5 hits before I cleared the bowl.

I was hoping you could chime in on the power requirements of the FLIX. I got the 120W laptop-style brick 12VDC 10A power adapter, but it is definitely on the larger side and doesn't match the FLIX's small size in a way that looks balanced.

Another issue I ran into was my generic China-made power adapter has a long power cord to the outlet, but the power cord that is after the brick, that is plugged into the FLIX is on the shorter side.

Is there any options out there that will have a longer "FLIX-side" cord and work great? I don't care if I have to order it from Amazon.com or wherever, as long as it works great! Hope someone his a good solution figured out for an AC adapter.

Hi @Lynch , glad it arrived safely and has been working well for you.

These variable voltage PSUs have fairly long cords (44"/110cm on the Flix side, 39"/1M on the mains side). They are a good price, too:

https://www.banggood.com/3-12V-10A-....html?rmmds=myorder&ID=47184&cur_warehouse=CN

These ^^^ are the ones I sell through my web store, but you can save if you buy them direct from Banggood.com and aren't in a big hurry. You also get the advantage of variable voltage, so you can try heating at 10V or 9V. The slower heating time can produce some more subtle flavors.
 

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Fluxer Heaters Updates

Hi Everyone,

Happy Wednesday, back with some updates on Fluxer's current models and upcoming projects! Now that that Dynatec's Orion is released and available in large, factory-made numbers, I feel more comfortable revisiting the hand-built Fluxer Heaters lineup and planning for its future. I want to share some updates with you on the various Fluxer models - where things stand and where I think things are headed.

The Fluxer product line is "in motion" at the moment, thanks to the addition of the Flite and the stuff I've learned while designing it. BTW, I need to give a HUGE shoutout to @TommyDee , who has been patiently filling in the gaps in my IH knowledge and explaining to me exactly how the various components of this circuit work together (or against each other) to make the IH magic happen. Thanks, Tom! Tom explained a few things that I can act on immediately, some ways to tame the IH process and bend it more to our will. Heh heh heh. ;) :bowdown: :science: :tup:

Once the dust settles and I'm done with my current round of revisions, I expect the Fluxer Heaters product line to look like this:

Flix: the Flix is a desktop 12VDC IH that can be made portable with the addition of a separate battery pack or 12V cigarette lighter adapter. The Flix has a lot of options and its base model will remain the least expensive Fluxer model.

Flite Deluxe: The new Fluxer pocket-sized 18350-powered IH is going to be Fluxer's most portable model. It will have both full power and PWM modes. It will also have a built in battery management system (BMS) with circuit protection features and built-in DC charging capability. This last item is a new feature that I added last week. More info below.

Flux Deluxe: Fluxer heater's flagship model, a portable 18650-powered IH with full power and optional PWM mode. Built-in battery management system circuit with circuit protection features and charging capability. Built-in battery meter. Widest choice of coil sizes, wooden case option, etc.

That's the big picture, and where I want to take Fluxer's product once the Flite is ready for sale. I am still hopeful that will be by the end of the month. More to come, so stay tuned. ;)

More specific updates, by model:

Flix:
I am continuing to sell Flix in the store, and my goal is to make a batch of 24 every two weeks or so, assuming there's sufficient demand. I posted a batch of two dozen Flix about two weeks ago and am almost ready to post another. If you are waiting for a Flix, I expect to have more in my web store by the end of the week. :nod:

One of the projects I'm working on at the moment is a PWM module for the Flix, similar in function to the one I demo'd for the Flite. Unfortunately, the first version didn't work as expected...and neither did the second, lol. I think I have it figured out this time, so I'm hopeful my third try will get the job done.

The Flix PWM module is a two-part solution: the PWM module sits on its own mini-circuit board, and this connects to the circuit board via a new plug I added. There isn't a lot of room inside the Flix, and to make it all fit I had to squeeze the PWM circuit to a tidy 15mm x 20mm footprint, or about the size of a postage stamp. The circuit adds a small knob to the side of the Flix, behind the mid-point of the case, for easy adjustment. I'll share pics once it's truly done and I have a working version of it. Hopefully that will be in a week or so...otherwise, I suppose I'll be working on version 4. I'll keep you posted.

Once this option is ready, I'll demo it and share pricing and upgrade info for existing Flix owners. It works very well (in breadboard form) and I think you will like it!

Flux Deluxe: Fluxer Heaters' flagship model gets no love in this update, unfortunately. I do not have any immediate FD news for this particular update. Worse yet, I still need to send out emails for the October 2019 FDs. Sorry for the lack of progress, FD list members.

Actually, this is not entirely true: I *have* been doing some serious plotting and planning for the changes I want to make for the FD v2.0. I have drawn up some requirements for the revisions, and I also spent an inordinate amount of time staring at the FD circuit board, working out the things I want to change. The new requirements are mostly about making the FD easier for me to build without compromising its quality, but I also want to add the optional PWM module I mention above for the Flix (it gets its own special FD PCB). I will also be adding another DIP switch to allow you to kill the battery meter's optocoupler, which is a "hidden" LED that draws about 15mA whenever the FD is switched ON, even if the two LED DIP switches on the PCB are set to OFF. This is why an FD will run down over time if you leave it ON, even if you have the LED DIP switches set to OFF.

Flite Deluxe: Betcha didn't know I was making a Flite Deluxe? ;) It would have been hard to know this, as I didn't know it myself until last week. When I announced the Flite, I envisioned it as a flashlight-like device that was too small to allow me to include any inherent charging capabilities. Its circuitry is a tight fit, and in its first few drafts I barely had enough room to fit the basic IH components, and saw no hope of fitting a DC charge port and full battery management system (BMS) into it as well. Turns out I was wrong, and I was able to find enough room to include both a full BMS and an internal DC charge port. This means the Flite will rest in your pocket with only two external features, the push button and the heater hole. That's as slick a result as I could have hoped for.

The addition of a BMS, DC charge port, and a DC charger similar to the FDs are going to affect the final price, but I think that additional capabilities and circuit protections afforded by the new BMS offset this extra cost. I also think you folks will let me know if that assumption isn't true.

OK, going to wrap this up for now, as I'm all text/no pictures at the moment, but I will be back with more pictures and updates after I get the next set of circuit boards, hopefully by Monday.

TL;DR: I'll be adding more Flix to the store by this weekend. Also, the Flite is gaining a battery management system and battery charging capabilities (!), the Flix's PWM module is 'coming along,' and the Flux Deluxe is once again this week's forgotten child while the other models get all the love.

Cheers,
:leaf:
 
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LongDraw

Well-Known Member
quick queston. will the pwm module replace the need for the vvps for the flix? vvps works great, but one less external component is always great.
 

Vaporware

Well-Known Member
Sounds great! I’ve very glad to see the PWM coming back and I definitely want to get my FD upgraded when this is available - although the Flite is also pretty tempting...

With the new names though, FD’s not going to be enough soon...are we going with FliD & FluD? :rofl:
 
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TommyDee

Vaporitor
The technical difference is this @LongDraw ; A reduced voltage means a steady state of the coil although the power source uses PWM to modulate the output voltage at a much higher frequency rate than the IH operates at. The IH sees DC voltage. IH's are analog devices and like steady states.

The PWM Jeff is proposing, what I like to call 'Power Watch Mode', is a Power Burst for the duration you can dial within the heater's fixed heartbeat.

From an interface perspective, a lot more than mere power control. There is a whole UI built into the heartbeat of the Flite, and soon Flix.
 

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
I promised to share a pic of the latest Flite prototype build once the PCBs arrived. They showed up yesterday afternoon, so let me share that with you now. :D This version includes the battery management system I mentioned in the last update (the blue, oval PCB visible underneath the battery holders) and the DC charge port, visible at upper right. Please excuse the sloppy soldering on this prototype:

IMG-0325-private.jpg


There are a few more versions coming after this one, and each iteration moves the project a bit closer to being ready. Overall, the device is coming together nicely. I don't have an exact ETA yet on the cases, but I've been in touch w/the case vendor, and I think things are still on track for a late October/early November release.

Testing the above circuit boards yesterday took me away from making Flix - sorry. I'll get back to making Flix later tonight, and should have those added to the store by the end of the weekend. :tup:

Cheers,
:leaf:
 
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Lynch

Well-Known Member
Just looking for smaller power adapters for my FLIX and came across a few that were 12VDC, 6A, 60W max power - would these work?

I know the manual keeps stating how it must be at least 10A or higher current, so can you explain if this would work or what problems might be caused by the lower ampere?
 
Lynch,

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
Just looking for smaller power adapters for my FLIX and came across a few that were 12VDC, 6A, 60W max power - would these work?

I know the manual keeps stating how it must be at least 10A or higher current, so can you explain if this would work or what problems might be caused by the lower ampere?

The heater draws ~90W-to-100W of power. If your power adapter can only produce 60W, it will not have enough power available to operate the induction heating circuit. It will start to heat and stop after 1 second or so, once the power being drawn exceeds what the adapter can produce. This is why it won't work.

Sorry if that explanation is too brief, but that's what will happen if you try to power the Flix with an adapter that doesn't make enough power.
 
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