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Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap

akit4so

Tobacco Vapourist
My FD completely stopped working.
I’m really sad.
I sent an email to Mr.C already.
Heating for couple seconds, FD shut down automatically.
No LED turns on.

I wish Mr.C still continues customer support. 😭

I’m waiting for good reply email.
 

Aos3327

Well-Known Member
Anyone know if the face cover of the Flite is replaceable? Hoping to get a new faceplate if at all possible.
 
Aos3327,

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
IMG-1624.jpg
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
What a beauty. Is it new or in use? Beautiful in both cases!
Thank you. I've had it for a few years now, it's one of my favorite things. I got it to kind of reward myself for fuckin combustion. Good ol' Uncle Doo Dah was the design also etched into the little wooden dugout I had carried for decades, and gave up using in the process. I use this around the house these days while the Flite comes hiking. Great work, still kickin'!
 
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DHV8654

Well-Known Member
When I charge my Flite through the bms one of the batteries doesn’t seem to charge completely. When it’s starts talking way too long to click, I take the batteries out and put them in a separate charger. 2 of the batteries are at 4v and the other is barely 3. I have done this with the black included batteries and another set of people batteries.
 
DHV8654,

badbee

Well-Known Member
When I charge my Flite through the bms one of the batteries doesn’t seem to charge completely. When it’s starts talking way too long to click, I take the batteries out and put them in a separate charger. 2 of the batteries are at 4v and the other is barely 3. I have done this with the black included batteries and another set of people batteries.
You should ask if this can be repaired. The BMS is not working correctly and stressing the shit out of that one cell. It is not good for a cell to ever go below 3.2 V and that one will die long before the others.
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
Flite's BMS is one of the standard 10 amp BMS offerings. It is not too hard to swap out. Then again, Jeff will help out if needed.
 
TommyDee,
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Severmore

Well-Known Member
V2 Flix died on me last roadtrip. Pop, fizz, smoke, and a terrible fried electronics scent. Bummed. Unsure if it was a result of my car adaptor, or merely excessive use.

Any folks around these parts capable of a repair-for-hire?

Thanks!
 

akit4so

Tobacco Vapourist
Hello.

Does anyone know which tactile switch used for Flux Deluxe?
I tried to connect Mr.C, but no response. :(

My FD needs to replace switch. :doh:
 
akit4so,

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Hello.

Does anyone know which tactile switch used for Flux Deluxe?
I tried to connect Mr.C, but no response. :(

My FD needs to replace switch. :doh:

From my old Fluxer Deluxe notes:

Jeff wrote:

“Yes, the switch is replaceable. It's a standard tactile switch with 4 leads, one at each corner. I have plenty, so I'll include a spare with the PCB.

The switch manufacturer is MEC. The p/n is 5ESH920 for the "gull wing" version; the through-hole version is p/n 5ETH920, and it will also work. It's the same switch, but the gull wing version can be hard to find sometimes, so the through-hole version can be substituted in a pinch if you trim the leads.
Use a soldering iron to remove the old switch, not a heat gun. I've found it is easiest to free one side of the switch, lift it slightly, then free the other side. You can bend the heating coil straight backwards to get it out of the way - the copper wire bends easily. Bend it back when you are done.”



 

akit4so

Tobacco Vapourist
From my old Fluxer Deluxe notes:

Jeff wrote:

“Yes, the switch is replaceable. It's a standard tactile switch with 4 leads, one at each corner. I have plenty, so I'll include a spare with the PCB.

The switch manufacturer is MEC. The p/n is 5ESH920 for the "gull wing" version; the through-hole version is p/n 5ETH920, and it will also work. It's the same switch, but the gull wing version can be hard to find sometimes, so the through-hole version can be substituted in a pinch if you trim the leads.
Use a soldering iron to remove the old switch, not a heat gun. I've found it is easiest to free one side of the switch, lift it slightly, then free the other side. You can bend the heating coil straight backwards to get it out of the way - the copper wire bends easily. Bend it back when you are done.”



Thanks! I’ll try to find this model!!
 
akit4so,
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