quasars25
Well-Known Member
I didn't think about that, but I would have to agree with you. Since I am new to the Dynavap thing, I really have no idea if I am paying a reasonable price for the products, or if I am being ripped off.
Fluxer Heaters, induction heaters for Dynavap
- Thread starter mr_cfromcali
- Start date
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- Tags
- induction heater
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Simple formula @quasars25 to figure out what DynaVap associated kit costs - take what you would think it would be and multiply x4. If it's really bling - x5. Look at the recent stem prices.
Sn4Pz
Well-Known Member
Most "high performance" 18350 cells seem to fall into the 1000-1100mah and 10a range, just like how most "high performace" 18650s fall into the 3000mah and 20a range. Seems like its the limitations of the tech and size of the cell
That being said the Epoch cells seem interesting given their lesser internal resistance... Hopefully less voltage sag could mean an extra click or two before it reaches cutoff
Cant wait to try and get one of these!
@mr_cfromcali is there some kind of list we can sign up to be on to receive updates on batch 3?
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TommyDee
Vaporitor
@Sn4Pz - you are correct that higher current rated cells will have less internal resistance. You assertion is in line with your observations.
The 1200mah rating for 18350 came to the forefront about 2+ years ago. This gives me confidence in the tech. The fine print will show that 1100mah or slightly under is the actual expected performance. I get better than 1050mah on my well abused eFest cells which has been the case since new.
I like Mooch's efforts. Thank you for posting that chart. You will find eFest is performing in line with KeepPower cells. I usually get just over 1AH on a charge at best with the eFest cells in Flite before the BMS takes over.
The 1200mah rating for 18350 came to the forefront about 2+ years ago. This gives me confidence in the tech. The fine print will show that 1100mah or slightly under is the actual expected performance. I get better than 1050mah on my well abused eFest cells which has been the case since new.
I like Mooch's efforts. Thank you for posting that chart. You will find eFest is performing in line with KeepPower cells. I usually get just over 1AH on a charge at best with the eFest cells in Flite before the BMS takes over.
Sn4Pz
Well-Known Member
@TommyDee You seem to be immersed in this project, do you know if this BMS will balance the cells if I only use a 12v 1.3a charger? I have had bad experiences with some chinese chargers, and while I'd like to believe in the quality of what is being offered, I think I will go with a Meanwell LPF-16-12 (CC & CV). Does this seem up to the task? Link here: Link
I understand using an LED driver could be controversial to some, but in the Esk8 world they are used with Bestech BMSs and other common brands to charge the 42v and higher packs, and seem to do so just fine. Hopefully its applicable here.
Made a separate reply since I wanted to make sure you saw my edit... haha. Sorry if you did, and this is redundant
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TommyDee
Vaporitor
You could say I am keeping sane while isolated from C'19. I picked up IH as a way to keep busy. I started qualifying cell styles about a year ago. I found that 14500 are not up to the task even if rated for such. The cells become problematic and their charge characteristics changed to the point where I could not trust the BMS to maintain balance. This is problematic with common BMS units.
Most BMS' are not balance chargers. They protect from over-voltage and under-voltage but they monitor each individual cell. IIRC, once all the cells are 'charged' according to the logic, then the output rail is connected again. Now any over-voltage not detected by the BMS will continue to charge the cells to 'balance' them against the input voltage. This is a bad state to leave a charger in. Charging wall warts must be 12.6V or less.
Balance circuits actually draw power all the time. Miniscule to some but a forgotten product in a closet may present problems if not properly protected for that. The balancing is actually a connection between the cells that makes sure each cell is at the same potential as its neighbors while the product is resting. It just moves joules around to make everyone happy.
Wall warts - definitely not the best of chargers but they do work. The little charger Jeff provides is a CVCC charger that properly cuts off when the voltage is met. This is important for the survival of the charger itself over a longer period. There will invariably read under 12.6V. Mine reads out at 12.35V What that means is you are leaving bowls on the table. As much as 15% of the charge is still remaining to be fed into the cells. If capacity really matters, then a better charger is called for. That is not as easy as one thinks. The best solution is a proper Li-ion charger like a good quality XTAR charger. A brand I have high confident in.
I did opt for a small digital charger that has a meter and some rudimentary analysis capability. This is the unit I picked up - https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-DC-DC-...ble-Regulated-Solar-Power-Module/202929222413
It has a few quirks but it is an excellent supply if you can get past it sometimes slow uptake. That may just be mine. The digital control gives me great confidence that the output voltage will remain stable which is rarely the case with analog converters. I have a 3D print model for that meter if anyone wants it. edit: Case 3D Model Link
@Sn4Pz - hopefully this gives you a bit of an overview of what my cell explorations were about. I use the 4A digital charger to analyze power usage as well. With a full charge, you can reset the mwh used for any event. That has been my most useful tool yet for harvesting data.
Let me know if there is something I overlooked.
Most BMS' are not balance chargers. They protect from over-voltage and under-voltage but they monitor each individual cell. IIRC, once all the cells are 'charged' according to the logic, then the output rail is connected again. Now any over-voltage not detected by the BMS will continue to charge the cells to 'balance' them against the input voltage. This is a bad state to leave a charger in. Charging wall warts must be 12.6V or less.
Balance circuits actually draw power all the time. Miniscule to some but a forgotten product in a closet may present problems if not properly protected for that. The balancing is actually a connection between the cells that makes sure each cell is at the same potential as its neighbors while the product is resting. It just moves joules around to make everyone happy.
Wall warts - definitely not the best of chargers but they do work. The little charger Jeff provides is a CVCC charger that properly cuts off when the voltage is met. This is important for the survival of the charger itself over a longer period. There will invariably read under 12.6V. Mine reads out at 12.35V What that means is you are leaving bowls on the table. As much as 15% of the charge is still remaining to be fed into the cells. If capacity really matters, then a better charger is called for. That is not as easy as one thinks. The best solution is a proper Li-ion charger like a good quality XTAR charger. A brand I have high confident in.
I did opt for a small digital charger that has a meter and some rudimentary analysis capability. This is the unit I picked up - https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-DC-DC-...ble-Regulated-Solar-Power-Module/202929222413
It has a few quirks but it is an excellent supply if you can get past it sometimes slow uptake. That may just be mine. The digital control gives me great confidence that the output voltage will remain stable which is rarely the case with analog converters. I have a 3D print model for that meter if anyone wants it. edit: Case 3D Model Link
@Sn4Pz - hopefully this gives you a bit of an overview of what my cell explorations were about. I use the 4A digital charger to analyze power usage as well. With a full charge, you can reset the mwh used for any event. That has been my most useful tool yet for harvesting data.
Let me know if there is something I overlooked.
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Hi @Sn4Pz and others, I am here with some timely updates
Flite: Flite batch #3 will be posted for sale in the Fluxer store tomorrow: Monday, January 25, at 10 am Pacific time (GMT-8).
This batch will have ~18 heaters in these colors: black, gun metal, red, blue, dark green (but not the even darker hunter green), light green, and gold. Hunter green is currently sold out, sorry.
I have requested hunter green and raw aluminum as new colors in my next order of Flite cases. Those should be ready "soon", but I don't know have an ETA for that second shipment yet, so for now I only have the colors listed above.BTW, I have plenty of the black, gun metal, red, blue, and dark green cases on hand. The store's software has some limitations (to put it mildly), so be aware that you can change your order to use one of these five colors or a different one of these colors after you place it. Please send me an email to request the change after you have placed your order.
As with the previous two batches, please allow me 1-2 weeks to complete and ship all of the heaters from this batch.
---------------------------
Flix v2: Flix v2 is just around the corner. The design is done, and FWIW a few people are already using it as a replacement for their v1.
I shared these pics previously, but it's worth posting them again.
Same general shape, but very different components and component layout:
A view looking down at the cap-as-switch setup:
I still need to record a new video, update the Flix web page, etc. That's going to take me some time, so I expect to do a 'soft launch' and start selling it through the store soon, even before I get the supporting material in place.
Flix v2 addresses a number of issues I encountered with v1: I took things back to the beginning and re-routed most of the PCB's traces to reduce RF interference. I also beefed up and hardened the circuit's ground connections and eliminated several inadvertent ground loops, I rotated one MOSFET 90° to provide a better current path, and I added more conductive material to the traces under the MOSFETs for better radiant heat sinking. Flix v2 also uses different MOSFETs and zener diodes (same as Flite), different capacitors and inductors (unique to it), as well as the new thermal fuse and solid state relay relay I am using in the control circuit of the Flite. These are behind-the-scenes changes that improve the stability and robustness of the circuit and give it much better thermal stability.
The biggest change users are going to notice in v2 is the addition of the Flite's cap-as-switch circuit trigger. This setup works great on the Flix and it eliminates the issues caused by the previous protectors, the pyrex button and the silicone disc. As a bonus, it also requires much less downward force to operate.
The new hardware has added to the base cost of the Flix, and unfortunately going forward I will need to increase the base price of Flix v2 to $135 + shipping. Thank you for understanding, and thank you for your continued support.
I do have some remaining v1 Flix, and will be listing those in the store as well soon, until they are gone. These have the same MOSFETs and capacitors as Flix v2, so they are very stable. They have the Flix v1 tactile switch, however, and will not be compatible with the upcoming PWM module.
Flix v2 w/PWM (+$40)
Flix v2 has a connection to permit an optional PWM module:
The electronics are done, but I'm still searching for a good knob (!) to use for this application. I had one picked out, but apparently it rivaled the Pontiac Aztec for questionable styling choices.
So the PWM will be mounted to the side, as above , with the knob TBD. Several new knob candidates are due this week, so watch this thread for future exciting developments in this area. 
OK, that's the latest. I need to spend some time w/my family this afternoon, so I'll be logging off for a bit. I'll be back later to answer any questions.
Cheers,
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TommyDee
Vaporitor
We could machine a custom Fluxer knob 
3mm stub or 1/8th inch?
All metal 
www.mcmaster.com
3mm stub or 1/8th inch?
All metal
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
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The Stray Fox
Separated from the group
RustyOldNail
SEARCH for the treasure...
PUSH IN with DIAL, like the Auber 300 PID, an option for on/off or battery check, or whatever.
kairos
Well-Known Member
I’m considering Yoss IMR 18350 paired with Xtar MC3, am I considering wrong?
And thanks @Sn4Pz for the documentation, very useful I guess but a little beyond my knowledge!
Just did a dry run to see how fast I could check out... turns out you accept paypal! Nice
Could be worth adding that info to the bottom of your website like some others do. Something like this:
Sorry, I thought I had stated that in various places on the site. I'll improve the signage.
Cannabiker
Well-Known Member
How did you do that? I tried the same thing, but I couldn't put one in the cart without selecting a color, which are currently out of stock. Now I'm a little nervous, which, to be honest, adds to the excitement.Just did a dry run to see how fast I could check out... turns out you accept paypal! Nice
Could be worth adding that info to the bottom of your website like some others do. Something like this:
Sn4Pz
Well-Known Member
Tried it with one of those $15 little converty thingies, just didnt hit the final checkout button.
Back off my gun metal flite
@mr_cfromcali all good! Hopefully its still a 10am launch! Im refreshing once a minute already lol
OK, the Flite heaters for this batch are live. There are 19 heaters in this batch:
3x black
3x gun metal
3x dark green
3x red
3x blue
2x light green
2x gold
Thanks to all who are interested!
A reminder: you can request a color change to black, gun metal, dark green, blue, or red. I have these colors in larger quantities.
3x black
3x gun metal
3x dark green
3x red
3x blue
2x light green
2x gold
Thanks to all who are interested!
A reminder: you can request a color change to black, gun metal, dark green, blue, or red. I have these colors in larger quantities.
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The Stray Fox
Separated from the group
I’m in baby! Shopping like that gets my anxiety going.
Sn4Pz
Well-Known Member
Got in! woohoo
@mr_cfromcali Can you share a photo of the 1A charger that it comes with for an additional $10? Im curious if its similar to the one for $30 in the regular shop menu. Wondering if I should bother getting the meanwell charger I PMd you about
@mr_cfromcali Can you share a photo of the 1A charger that it comes with for an additional $10? Im curious if its similar to the one for $30 in the regular shop menu. Wondering if I should bother getting the meanwell charger I PMd you about
Cannabiker
Well-Known Member
Congratulations on your gun metal Flite--it looks like we both got one!Tried it with one of those $15 little converty thingies, just didnt hit the final checkout button.
Back off my gun metal flite
@mr_cfromcali all good! Hopefully its still a 10am launch! Im refreshing once a minute already lol
Got in! woohoo
@mr_cfromcali Can you share a photo of the 1A charger that it comes with for an additional $10? Im curious if its similar to the one for $30 in the regular shop menu.
They're not the same. The 1A charger looks like the photo below (which not my photo, but this is the same charger):
The 10A PSU looks like this:
The top adapter is a dedicated battery charger. The bottom power supply is a power supply only, it doesn't have a charging status circuit or indicator LED.
Hope that helps.
Sn4Pz
Well-Known Member
It does, thanks!They're not the same. The 1A charger looks like the photo below (which not my photo, but this is the same charger):
The 10A PSU looks like this:
The top adapter is a dedicated battery charger. The bottom power supply is a power supply only, it doesn't have a charging status circuit or indicator LED.
Hope that helps.