Firewood Vaporizer

TheManWithSomeGoals

Well-Known Member
Great idea flipping the dimpled stem to allow the mistvape mouthpiece to be used! 👍 That would’ve been a cheaper option in my case vs. buying the longer (75mm) mistvape stem.

I am loving how the mistvape stem works, even without the wood mouthpiece. I think it’s a great cooling option all by itself. But with the wood mouthpiece on it, or the stock stem as you have it just adds that extra wow factor + comfort.
I originally ordered the PIU mistvape stem variant, but it broke. Which is why ordered the basic cooling stem. I actually preferred the balls over the nipples, but it wasn't worth twice the cost!
 

Vaporware

Well-Known Member
Ok awesome. I thought I saw someone else saying theirs rattled.

With the heavy titanium Omnivap mouthpiece on mine there is a bit of a (padded) “rattle” if I tilt it around that I don’t notice with lighter stems. My guess is the light stem with the heavy mouthpiece on the end like this would be the worst it would get, and it wasn’t a huge deal.

That said, it was an experiment and things didn’t fit perfectly, so I’m back to just the Hula type cooling stem I got with the FW7. It’s also nice being able to keep the entire stem inside the wood. :)
 

rvarick

Well-Known Member
Ok awesome. I thought I saw someone else saying theirs rattled.
My short mistvape stem moved around a bit when lowered/retracted into the FW, as the wood mouthpiece is narrower than the stem at the tip/end, and doesn’t sit against the foam pieces completely. I was also having issues with the short setup pulling the cooling stem out of the o-ring as well.

Once I switched to the longer 75mm mistvape stem though this isn’t an issue anymore, and there’s no rattle - as the stem is long enough to sit against the foam when retracted. The wood mouthpiece sticks out from the device though.

The glass beads themselves also stopped rattling at all after getting honeyed up from a couple sessions, however the initial rattle was pretty quiet and minimal given the thick, but narrow stem and relatively small beads anyway, IMO.
 

shatter-reality

Well-Known Member
Once I switched to the longer 75mm mistvape stem though this isn’t an issue anymore, and there’s no rattle - as the stem is long enough to sit against the foam when retracted. The wood mouthpiece sticks out from the device though.
That’s good to know because honestly I think the pushed in tip rattle would have driven me mad. Cooling beads is a bit different as their function is more than aesthetic.
 

dzoinp

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
With a thicker silicone tube the fitting on the hula's is quite firm. Without o-ring! Just with a little bit of lube and strength and no longer disengage when pulling out. Lip on the ceramic side.
PXL-20210110-190408876.jpg
 

Jacer

Well-Known Member
Got my Firewood 7 in today and this thing is so awesome! This is pretty much exactly what I was looking for in my next vaporizer and I already love this thing.

Edit: Holy shit this thing can put out some clouds, getting my technique down a lot better now
 
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west-elec

Well-Known Member
I was inspired by all the Frankenglass FW7 posts and the fact that my underperforming tinymight isn't being used. So I used a silicone connector piece to connect the tinymight long dimpled stem to the end of the cooling stem. It is ludicrous and unwieldy and you wouldn't want to take it out, and I did it just for the laugh.
But wow, so much better than j-hook and WPA for some reason. Maybe just the right draw restriction for my pull??? Only had a few bowls but I will be going there again. Has me thinking what other glass pieces I can bring in to Dr Frankenstein's leb
 

Lord_fluf

New Member
Hello! I think I might be getting a firewood 7 soon, so what is the basics for it / what do you guys recommend? Also what glass mouthpiece should I get for it? because it seems that the mouthpiece with it is a bit small. Last question is any easy way to make a WPA for it?
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Hello! I think I might be getting a firewood 7 soon, so what is the basics for it / what do you guys recommend? Also what glass mouthpiece should I get for it? because it seems that the mouthpiece with it is a bit small. Last question is any easy way to make a WPA for it?

I recommend reading back the past several pages in this thread, you will find answers to all your questions +more! Nice choice :tup:
 

PossumMD

Well-Known Member
Hello! I think I might be getting a firewood 7 soon, so what is the basics for it / what do you guys recommend? Also what glass mouthpiece should I get for it? because it seems that the mouthpiece with it is a bit small. Last question is any easy way to make a WPA for it?
Nothing really. I grabbed some screens and spare stems cos I'm os and it's a pain getting them here. The screen seems like the most useless extras I got, it's self cleaning and I've never had to do anything with it.

The dimpled cooling stem is superior to the thin in my opinion, others prefer the thin. Don't know if you mean small length wise or bore wise.

There is a WPA you can get. You could also use a dynavap WPA on the normal cooling stem thing, provided it has the length.
 

Kinick23

Well-Known Member
Hey all

quick update on an issue I reported earlier in the thread. In short when I got it I noticed I didn’t get any haptic feedback when running through the button commands to do things like check battery or temp level, but when actually using it on any of the presets it worked just fine. Marc and I went back and forth and during that time the haptic feedback stopped altogether. The working theory is the vibration motor either had a loose connection or failed. I shipped it off Monday so hope to get this one back soon cause I sure do miss it already !
 

west-elec

Well-Known Member
Ever notice how little smell the FW7 gets with use, apart from that magic wooden lovliness that is still strong- nothing. Mine is in serious need of a clean and the only funky smelling part is the end of the stem and you have to jam it up your nostril. Not many conduction vapes are like this...another tick on the stealth list.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Ever notice how little smell the FW7 gets with use, apart from that magic wooden lovliness that is still strong- nothing. Mine is in serious need of a clean and the only funky smelling part is the end of the stem and you have to jam it up your nostril. Not many conduction vapes are like this...another tick on the stealth list.

Yeah being purely on demand near instant instead of a session style like most conduction vapes has so many benefits!
 

Jacer

Well-Known Member
Hey everyone just a quick question, but I've seen others mention a cleaning technique where you just hold the button down and the conduction heat cleans out the screen. Is there any way doing so would damage my device? It seems like a great way to clean the screen without having to take it out, but I'd be devastated if I happened to damage this thing haha. I love it too much already.
 

Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Hey everyone just a quick question, but I've seen others mention a cleaning technique where you just hold the button down and the conduction heat cleans out the screen. Is there any way doing so would damage my device? It seems like a great way to clean the screen without having to take it out, but I'd be devastated if I happened to damage this thing haha. I love it too much already.

That should not do any damage, but do it with the lid removed, so any vapor can escape easily. If your screen is really dirty though, it is going to be far better to use some iso either swabbing with a q-tip, or removing the screen to completely clean...
 
Shit Snacks,
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moondog

It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
That should not do any damage, but do it with the lid removed, so any vapor can escape easily. If your screen is really dirty though, it is going to be far better to use some iso either swabbing with a q-tip, or removing the screen to completely clean...
I made a brief exploration of removing the screen and it didn't seem to want to come out. Anybody have advice/tips on how to do it? Does it come out from the top or bottom?

Thanks.
 
moondog,

Phill_Swan

Member
I’m using a NewVape Fine Grinder, I fill to around the air inlets in the bowl (or lower) and then apply a little extra pressure on top of the weight of the battery door to tamp it down, trying to only press once or twice in the same spot. It stays in place unless I shake it hard, but it’s not super tight.

I have had bowls that were pretty dark around the edges and light in the middle, and I think part of that was bad grind consistency and/or packing, but I think how you use the button may also make a real difference.

Here’s an example of a couple of draws as I time things:

Draw 1 (from cold, battery semi-low):
1. Press and hold button.​
2. Count until at-temp vibration (8 in this example).​
3. Count the same number (8) at the same speed without drawing.​
4. Count the same number (8) again while drawing at a low-medium speed with the button still held.​
5. Let go of the button and draw for twice as long (16). Reset buzz should come while drawing.​

Draw 2:

Identical except:
2. If you reheat soon after the first draw, use the count from draw 1 (8), or at least ~1.5x the new count because it will usually be a lot shorter (maybe 6?).​
4. The draw speed can be a little faster but I tend to stay in the medium range.​
5. Continue drawing after letting go of the button for 2-3x as long as the count you’re using (16-24 in this example). This should give you a medium-large draw and avoid too much post-draw flower cooking.​
Really been loving the new Firewood. It reminds me of the espresso experience in Cannabis where your able to get a lot of potent vapor in a small shot/short period of time.

I have developed a little bit of a technique to get a timelier session out of it. Not as advanced as your instructions but a lengthener method that I have been really enjoying this past week.

Set two Temperatures:
1@160°C/320℉
2@193°C/380℉ (Or your normal ending temperature)

Hit the first bowl at the 1st preset (1@160°C/320℉) hit that until your satisfied with the flavor and begin to get into that more roasted taste. Then switch over to 2nd preset (2@193°C/380℉ or your normal ending temperature) and finish it out. Sometimes I end up just taking a break after hitting it out at the first preset temperature and then finishing it at preset 2 an hour or two later.

This hybrid heater works particularly well at vaping at low temps. It really allows for the conduction to set in to heat up the outside of the flower and get a wonderful mix of both the convection and conduction flavors. You end up getting a terpier taste for longer out of your material. I sample a lot of different flower; so this really does end up giving me the best of both worlds being able to taste, and then get the full effects of the flower.
 
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