Firewood Vaporizer

[junior]

I have gone back to the skinny stem as well. I like the way it pulls better as well as the form factor

 

[Vaporware]

You guys are making me want to finally try the original stem! I get why the new version is the way it is, but I think I would also prefer the original version of the wood part for the thin stem...partly to protect the thinner glass tube and shrink the wood slightly, but mostly because I like the original method of raising the stem and just having a little glass straw instead of the wooden block mouthpiece around it.

If I can handle the heat from the small stem maybe I’ll have to see if Marc has any of the original wood sections still around.

I do like the newer version with the cooling stem, but depending on the situation I might prefer the original version.

I use a metal doob tube I got off Etsy and it works pretty great as long as you aren’t in a windy area

Is it small enough to fit inside the oven? The plastic ones I have are a little wider and prone to spilling a little. Especially sticky stuff that stays in the bottom and then falls in a clump...

I went back to the skinny stem because i liked the cooling stem adapter, but i just couldn't get over the fact that there was an open window after using it enclosed with the wood slider.

I hope that i will be able to get others in the future if mine breaks.

They’re still shipping with the new FW7s so I don’t think he’ll stop stocking them any time soon. You still might want to order one or two before he moves on to the Firewood 8 though, just in case. I think they were $7 each.

 

[Momor]

IMO the loading part of the FW7 is its only downside. I use the NewVape Pax loading tool to load and tamp.
I didn't try fisrt version of the OG MP but i used my FW7 during a week with the new original MP (thin glass tube with big wood part at the end) and for me the cooling stem is a lot better (cooler and less arch vapor). I could really feel the heat coming from the narrow MP and i don't with the Hula.

 

[PossumMD]

I just put my thumb over the bowl and blow away any crumbs. They're not jammed in there or anything, so they disappear with ease.

 

[Jah75]

You guys are making me want to finally try the original stem! I get why the new version is the way it is, but I think I would also prefer the original version of the wood part for the thin stem...partly to protect the thinner glass tube and shrink the wood slightly, but mostly because I like the original method of raising the stem and just having a little glass straw instead of the wooden block mouthpiece around it.

If I can handle the heat from the small stem maybe I’ll have to see if Marc has any of the original wood sections still around.

I do like the newer version with the cooling stem, but depending on the situation I might prefer the original version.



Is it small enough to fit inside the oven? The plastic ones I have are a little wider and prone to spilling a little. Especially sticky stuff that stays in the bottom and then falls in a clump...

They’re still shipping with the new FW7s so I don’t think he’ll stop stocking them any time soon. You still might want to order one or two before he moves on to the Firewood 8 though, just in case. I think they were $7 each.

its normal doob tube sized (so a little larger than the bowl hole) and this exact thing happens to me lol. I push as much back in the oven as I can and like @PossumMD , I put my thumb over it and blow the crumbs away. I have noticed that if i do a couple quick shakes and don't keep the tube completely filled I can disperse the ground up material a bit so that i don't get as much issue.

I have had the tamp n load tool from Delta 3D in my basket for weeks - could use it for my hopper and my DotLeaf, I'm just hesitant to have to bring along another small tool to loose/complicate. Right now all I have to bring along for the day is my medium Ryot pack rat with my FW7, doob tube, and double 18650 case

 

[BrianTL]

In terms of loading I've been using a Delta 3D scoop & tamp - and thats the one thing I think I still need to figure out (or rather want to figure out, to make it a true pocket portable). Not so easy on the go. I did just order some stuff from Rogue, for around the house. I've gotten some crumbs in the battery compartment a few times, or just spilled in general for that matter, trying to load the FW. I'll either flick them out of the compartment, try and blow it out, if neither of those work I just leave it.

I'm surprised to hear people preferring the OG skinny stem over the cooling set up. Personally I love the cooling stem, I have the WPA but haven't even gotten around to trying it, I've tried the O'Connell inception stems, I haven't even tried the OG stem though. It just seems way to skinny to even be comfortable for me? Maybe I'm missing something though. Plus I would assume you lose a decent amount of cooling... and I do like the open window to the stem anyway lol

 

[PossumMD]

I prefer cooling stem over og stem.

 

[Jah75]

I definitely love the dimpled stem that comes from FW.
I have used the following:

1. BB9
2. Vortex
3. Inception
4. DDave Wand
5. OG

The vapcaps are ok, the port is an issue, the ddave and inception stems stick out the end unfortunately. I tried the OG exactly once before I changed over to the cooling stem, no thanks.
I feel like I get better cooling and better function with the dimple stem from marc - it is just perfect (IMO)

 

[dzoinp]

I tried the OG exactly once before I changed over to the coling stem, no thanks.

same here!

I even cut the original stem to make two more adapters for my hula's ... I won't try the original anymore ...

guys, do you put the lip of the short glass (adapter) to the side of the ceramic to prevent the hula + short glass from fully disengaging?
I also added a piece of felp to prevent the stem from moving so easily.

 

[BrianTL]

same here!

I even cut the original stem to make two more adapters for my hula's ... I won't try the original anymore ...

guys, do you put the lip of the short glass (adapter) to the side of the ceramic to prevent the hula + short glass from fully disengaging?
I also added a piece of felp to prevent the stem from moving so easily.

Im happy you asked that, I was cleaning mine for the first time last night, while also taking a buuunch of hits from a different vape. Went to re assemble, and thought my eyes were playing tricks on me. There is definitely a lip to the short glass that connects the ceramic part to the glass stem, right? It didn't seem to be the same on either end....

meanwhile, dickhead over here assumes that I'm just too high and surly they're the same on either end. I'm not even sure which end went which way at this point. I'll have to double check after figuring out the correct orientation

On top of that - I realized the cooling stem isn't the same on either end. Theres more distance between the start of the stem on one side to the first spike vs the other side, the fittings sit flush one way and dont sit flush the other way.

 

[Shit Snacks]

I am confused and don't really understand what you guys are talking about lol I have not taken apart that little adapter, it does insert flush into the ceramic, so maybe the lip is on the other end with the silicone then?? I would like to have more of these adapters too but I don't know how to cut glass like this myself...

 

[BrianTL]

I am confused and don't really understand what you guys are talking about lol I have not taken apart that little adapter, it does insert flush into the ceramic, so maybe the lip is on the other end with the silicone then?? I would like to have more of these adapters too but I don't know how to cut glass like this myself...

So that little glass stem that goes from the ceramic with the o-ring to seal, into the cooling stem with the 2 little rubber stoppers and in O-ring.

That glass stem itself, appears to have a lip on it on one side but not the other. I swear to God I just thought I was blasted last night and imagining shit/overthinking but apparently I wasn't lol. If this is a real, intentional thing, I would assume the flared/lipped part goes into the ceramic side, and the smooth part goes to the rubber/stem side, but what do I know?

The flush part I was talking about was the cooling/Hula Stem, if you have the little rubber stoppers and O-Ring set up, it sits flush into the stem on one side, and but the spikes on the other side prevent the adapter from being fully inserted. So either way, lip or not, if you have the rubber on the skinny (hardeee harr harr) it will fit flush into the stem one way but not the other - provided all of the stems are the same which I also sort of doubt.

I also would like to have more adapters just in case lol but wouldn't have the slightest idea on how to cut the OG stem to make that happen

 

[Shit Snacks]

So that little glass stem that goes from the ceramic with the o-ring to seal, into the cooling stem with the 2 little rubber stoppers and in O-ring.

That glass stem itself, appears to have a lip on it on one side but not the other. I swear to God I just thought I was blasted last night and imagining shit/overthinking but apparently I wasn't lol. If this is a real, intentional thing, I would assume the flared/lipped part goes into the ceramic side, and the smooth part goes to the rubber/stem side, but what do I know?

The flush part I was talking about was the cooling/Hula Stem, if you have the little rubber stoppers and O-Ring set up, it sits flush into the stem on one side, and but the spikes on the other side prevent the adapter from being fully inserted. So either way, lip or not, if you have the rubber on the skinny (hardeee harr harr) it will fit flush into the stem one way but not the other - provided all of the stems are the same which I also sort of doubt.

I also would like to have more adapters just in case lol but wouldn't have the slightest idea on how to cut the OG stem to make that happen

Oh I definitely noticed, with the cooling hula stem, that it is not the same on both ends and only inserts into one side LOL

Yeah that could be correct about the location of the little lip, I think that's where mine is, it came assembled with the silicone so I never took it apart and don't know what the tip of that end actually looks like... Very difficult to see the lip, but I think I can feel it, and it does catch a little in my ceramic, though it also still pops out very easily lol

 

[BrianTL]

Oh I definitely noticed, with the cooling hula stem, that it is not the same on both ends and only inserts into one side LOL

Yeah that could be correct about the location of the little lip, I think that's where mine is, it came assembled with the silicone so I never took it apart and don't know what the tip of that end actually looks like... Very difficult to see the lip, but I think I can feel it, and it does catch a little in my ceramic, though it also still pops out very easily lol

Yeah I hadn't taken it apart either since I asked marc to install the cooling set up for me prior to shipping lol. So the whole concept was new to me.

I'll have to investigate further once I get home. I dont even remember which way I put it back together, lip to ceramic or lip to stem. I did test it though, and it functioned flawlessly, so theres that.

 

[rvarick]

To confirm, in my experience the small glass stems that come with the cooling mouthpiece kit do have a small lip on the side the silicone is installed. I think they're basically the original glass stem with the bottom part chopped off. I think the lip helps to get a perfect seal with the cooling stem, but it's likely possible you could easily without. The main thing to avoid would be trying to jam the lip side through the o-ring I suppose.

 

[dzoinp]

I wish they come with 2 lips... like the ladies
Mine adapter came with the 2 pieces of silicone and the o-ring in lip side, but i inverted to the other side

 

[Shit Snacks]

To confirm, in my experience the small glass stems that come with the cooling mouthpiece kit do have a small lip on the side the silicone is installed. I think they're basically the original glass stem with the bottom part chopped off. I think the lip helps to get a perfect seal with the cooling stem, but it's likely possible you could easily without. The main thing to avoid would be trying to jam the lip side through the o-ring I suppose.

Oh Brian was seeming to say the opposite, and looking at mine that seems to be the case, but yeah I don't know what the other end looks like so who knows whatever lol

 

[Shogun.]

Marc came through and sent me a new lid after breaking mine, my most used vape now back in business!

420f with a wpa giving me face melting rips, full extraction, no stirring needed, and no worries of combustion is just

 

[Phill_Swan]

Just received my Firewood 7 a few weeks ago. I am really enjoying it so far, no real issues except for maybe as stated above loading the thing.

Where do you feel the biggest improvements could be made to the device? Any improvements that can simply be made third party, or through the iteration of the 8? Any concerns about the devices longevity?

 

[Jah75]

Just received my Firewood 7 a few weeks ago. I am really enjoying it so far, no real issues except for maybe as stated above loading the thing.

Where do you feel the biggest improvements could be made to the device? Any improvements that can simply be made third party, or through the iteration of the 8? Any concerns about the devices longevity?

I love the wood very much and would never want to not have the option to have the wood one. But I think I would love a Firetitanium 7 or Firesteel 7. I love this vape, but as its my daily, and I live in the 100% humidity in Florida, the wood on wood slides are not going to work forever.
I still want the walnut for sure, but wouldnt mind a "beater" to keep in my backpack 8)

 

[MikeRotchHertz]

It's funny because on the og stem, i use the lip on the wood slider end to aid in that mechanism, but with the cooling stem config i use the lip in the ceramic oven because i find it helps secure it in the o ring better when sliding in and out. Probably the one thing that annoys me most about the device is when i slide it too far and have to push it back in.

Double lipped or flanged would be my preference too.

 

[rvarick]

For those consistently getting consistent ABV, what's your typical grind consistency, and tamp?

I use a BCG Medium plate and a SCS, so my material tends to be kinda fluffy. As far as my tamp, I've tried really light (just enough to keep it from falling out), to packed down a bit. My bowl is usually about 3/4 full as well. Temps are set to 390/400/410 (new settings), and I temp step through all three usually, with about 2 hits per setting. I've also played around with draw speed and how long I hold the button as well.

My abv always tends to be kinda green in the middle, and charred around the edges. Trying to figure out how to get more even ABV and extraction. However, I will say when I've stirred; I'm not getting anything else vapor-wise or taste-wise out of the "green" material, so it may still have all the good stuff stripped off anyway.

 

[BrianTL]

Probably the one thing that annoys me most about the device is when i slide it too far and have to push it back in.

Really throws off the tempo when that happens

For those consistently getting consistent ABV, what's your typical grind consistency, and tamp?

I use a BCG Medium plate and a SCS, so my material tends to be kinda fluffy. As far as my tamp, I've tried really light (just enough to keep it from falling out), to packed down a bit. My bowl is usually about 3/4 full as well. Temps are set to 390/400/410 (new settings), and I temp step through all three usually, with about 2 hits per setting. I've also played around with draw speed and how long I hold the button as well.

My abv always tends to be kinda green in the middle, and charred around the edges. Trying to figure out how to get more even ABV and extraction. However, I will say when I've stirred; I'm not getting anything else vapor-wise or taste-wise out of the "green" material, so it may still have all the good stuff stripped off anyway.

BCG medium and a "medium" tamp also. The tamping is subjective and nearly impossible to describe over text IMO, but I tamp down with slightly more pressure than "barely tamped." lol

Seriously though I dont crank down on the thing but I do apply a slight amount of pressure past a light tamp, to what I would just describe as a medium tamp.

The top layer, but middle of that, usually is a bit lighter. I think below the surface is generally cooked more, with the most cooked obviously being in contact with the oven walls.

 

[Phill_Swan]

I love the wood very much and would never want to not have the option to have the wood one. But I think I would love a Firetitanium 7 or Firesteel 7. I love this vape, but as its my daily, and I live in the 100% humidity in Florida, the wood on wood slides are not going to work forever.
I still want the walnut for sure, but wouldnt mind a "beater" to keep in my backpack 8)

Longevity definitely seems like a concern, not really in terms of anything Firewood did wrong; it just comes with the territory of using wood. I feel that I am more cautious with my Firewood 7 than my other vapes.

Anybody using this on the go with them, any great storage/case solutions that you guys recommend with the Firewood 7?

 

[Jah75]

Longevity definitely seems like a concern, not really in terms of anything Firewood did wrong; it just comes with the territory of using wood. I feel that I am more cautious with my Firewood 7 than my other vapes.

Anybody using this on the go with them, any great storage/case solutions that you guys recommend with the Firewood 7?

definitely.

The FW7 is my daily carry. I use a Ryot pack rat case (medium sized) it fits the FW7, a double 18650 battery case and a metal doob tube with material and a little room to spare. Works perfect. I also have the ryot Coffin case, its ok and fits the Firweood7 and the tube fine, but its bulkier than the pack rat case and cant hold the batts too