Momor
Well-Known Member
For me it was that i was wrong with the choice of currencies. I used $ for sender and € for recipiend instead of the oppositeSame here, I have no idea what I'm doing... any help would be appreciated.
For me it was that i was wrong with the choice of currencies. I used $ for sender and € for recipiend instead of the oppositeSame here, I have no idea what I'm doing... any help would be appreciated.
I've been happy with my unfinished FW7, but my lid sticks a bit.hey guys- i ordered the unfinished version but have heard that this may cause some issues w/ sliding and lubrication (lack thereof). anyone have the unfinished version and is content?
They are made to pretty tight tolerances so can be firm at first but should generally loosen with use. The wooden slides are the major breakable pinch point in the FW7 design. Thin strips of wood that will split from the body if dropped because the stresses will be on the joints no matter which way it falls, there is a slide on both sides.hey guys- i ordered the unfinished version but have heard that this may cause some issues w/ sliding and lubrication (lack thereof). anyone have the unfinished version and is content?
interesting stuff. how did you treat your wood? and any advice on someone who wants to do the same and has no experience?They are made to pretty tight tolerances so can be firm at first but should generally loosen with use. The wooden slides are the major breakable pinch point in the FW7 design. Thin strips of wood that will split from the body if dropped because the stresses will be on the joints no matter which way it falls, there is a slide on both sides.
I have treated mine with bees wax because it will definately help make the wood stop splitting or cracking as it dries out, especially around the heater where the 2 halves of the body join. That is where a split could occur over time if not protected because of the heat. It is so easy, took 2 minutes. Be good to your wood.
I don't know much about types of wood preserver. Bees wax and Tung oil are 2 types used by @firewood. Just take out the ceramic pieces from the mouthpiece and WPA if you have one. You can't remove the bowl or mouthpiece ceramic. You might want to lightly sand any spots where the machine tool finish isn't perfect (finest sandpaper you can get). They are so well sanded out of the box you can skip this step unless you are a perfectionist.interesting stuff. how did you treat your wood? and any advice on someone who wants to do the same and has no experience?
I use Ed’s TNT Bomb Ass Butter on my Firewoods, which can be procured from Ed’s TNT, Vgoodiez, or the other two major retailers. I just wipe it on with a paper towel or soft cloth, let it sit for a bit, and then polish off with another cloth. Once a month or so is usually sufficient for me. I use the device before so it becomes a nice focused task . It’s some extra work but it makes the device look so nice!interesting stuff. how did you treat your wood? and any advice on someone who wants to do the same and has no experience?
Weird question does anyone have an IQ2 dosing capusel, and a FW7?
Do the two fit together, I assume the iq 2 capsule is too big, but they may work together because they're both made of ceramic.
I don't do anything special when opening the battery door. It feels pretty solid and slick to me. I tend to open it when warm, though that's because I'm always excited to see the perfectly even cooked AVB.
I do, but my initial thoughts actually are that the FW oven actually will be too large for the ceramic pod, rather than the pod itself being too large. I could see it loosely rattling in there, but if I remember today I will check on that for you. It's been quite a while since I've touched the IQ2 dosing pods so I have to find it first lol
Same here. Usually immediately after my final hit I just slide the door open. I could see if you let it cool and get sticky, it could be an issue, but I've never had a problem sliding the door open with my thumb immediately after use. Plus it just makes it a lot easier IMO to empty the bowl, I dont like leaving it to set for too long at all.
Typically even if I do forget to empty, for whatever reason, or think I'm gonna take another hit but never end up doing it, I warm up the bowl with a level 3 hit before emptying it to reload anyway. Seems to help quite a bit
Hi I was having problems with paying via transferwise as well until Marc confirmed thay you need to address it: Firewood vaporizers inc. And then this email address: tw@firewoodvapes.comThanks. shot off an email earlier this afternoon but haven't heard back yet. Thought that if it was an easy fix, someone here may know.
Have no clue as to what info is needed, and where to insert said info for the transfer to happen... I feel really stupid about it.
Well I went to buy one and by the time I was checking out it was out of stock rip lmao. In the meantime while I wait, is it worth it to get the WPA with it? Seems somewhat pricey for a WAP haha
You can get a dynvavap water wand/ wpa and use it in the cooling mouthpiece connectorWell I went to buy one and by the time I was checking out it was out of stock rip lmao. In the meantime while I wait, is it worth it to get the WPA with it? Seems somewhat pricey for a WAP haha
Hmmm fair that does sound pretty niceI love my WPA personally, it is pricey because it is a rather large piece custom made, and it has another custom ceramic piece in it for the vapor path. I like how it allows you to keep the oven upright in use.
Although this might just be what I do at first and order the full WPA later if I really enjoy the experienceYou can get a dynvavap water wand/ wpa and use it in the cooling mouthpiece connector
Or like what @Shit Snacks said the fw wpa piece is probably nicer as it was made specifically for it, with better airflow and won't get clogged easily like my current setup.
I've just been going my way since the wpa was out of stock when I bought mine.
Ow that hurts. I was afraid the 'I just broke my firewood' posts would start coming through...Dammit. I've damaged my unit. Was doing three things at once and put the mouthpiece in wrong and just forced it til the ends of the mouthpiece rail snapped off. It seems to still function normally...? Still, annoying.
Yeah I also had the tell tale gap. I had to look real close to see the split right where the rail started on one side. The rail can move outwards slightly because of the split and doesn't hold the wooden slide down as tightly (hence gap) but ceramic still meets up ok so still works. Does that sound similar? If you hold the body between 2 flat surfaces you might be able to see the rail flex back inwards if you squeeze. If you can smear some pva glue on the split then clamp between something flat that the glue won't stick to, like plastic, might do the trick. Mine seems good, invisible repair, but will probably always be a weakness.I just vaped a bowl out of it fine. I was also sitting in the car and didn't realise that what I'd done had done had done damage until I walked back inside and thought it looked "off". The gap between the two pieces is like half a millimeter (or less) bigger than it was. I think the elbow joint being spring loaded has saved my bacon.
It is one of those vapes that lets you get away with stretching the cleaning out, isn't it? I do it reluctantly when the stem gets too slippery and slides around when I don't want it to.Anybody have any cleaning tips aside from whats in the manual?
Mines due for a cleaning and I've been putting it off for a few days. I think I gotta get more iso anyway
It is one of those vapes that lets you get away with stretching the cleaning out, isn't it? I do it reluctantly when the stem gets too slippery and slides around when I don't want it to.
I really like the colour the bowl ceramic is taking on as it ages. It is a caramel brown that matches the wood really nicely. I also like the cooling stem when it's got a nice amber coating. This thing looks better used than brand new.
If you are out of iso just pop the screen and remove the ceramic from mouthpiece etc. and wash them in some really hot soapy water. I think there was a recent post on the tinymight thread where someone had rigged up their cooling stem to connect to the tap outlet. Hot water running through cleans the stem- great idea. Holding it with a pair of tongs would do the job.
The parts probably won't come up spotless, I would always use some iso. But like I said a bit of coloured ceramic adds to the patina of a well used device.
hey guys- just got my FW7 in the mail. unfortunately i realized i ordered the wrong hula stem from sneaky pete. i believe its supposed to be the XL version. is there anyway this can still be used?
i was thinking of doing that... retraction would be nice but not really a deal breaker. may as well bite the bullet and get the XLProperly? I don't think so. The stems need to be at least 3 inches. But... I wonder if you could rig something up with the longer thin glass tube until you get a new stem in? It will likely not retract all the way though.
hey guys- just got my FW7 in the mail. unfortunately i realized i ordered the wrong hula stem from sneaky pete. i believe its supposed to be the XL version. is there anyway this can still be used?
i was thinking of doing that... retraction would be nice but not really a deal breaker. may as well bite the bullet and get the XL
I'm confused which one you got exactly, but the regular hula stem can retract into the FW7 fully, while the xl will still fit fine, but a little bit will poke out when it is retracted like my inception stem does... Not a big deal!