Discontinued Elevape SV
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kazz
Little Lebowski Urban Achiever
It's under Products/Accessories. Here's a direct link:
http://elevapesmart.com/product/top-lid-auto-stir-attachment/
olfos
that´s no smoke....it´s called vapor
Thank you very much! But unfortunately they do not send to germany....
kahlilhc
Vaped Crusader/Serial Vapist
So I received my ESV that I got for half price, although I got sucked 34£ by the customs vampire 
Very small vape, though significantly thicker that I pictured.
Sturdy, not to heavy, nice twist magnet lid, every part of it seems well thought out on the outside....except for the mouthpiece, not sure if this is just mine, but it has almost ZERO grip, keeps falling out, sometimes mid-hit. Its whole wobbliness seems far from the sturdiness of the rest of it, should possibly twist in.
It works, just using the preset temps, but the heat light seems to be broken, I have yet to see a flashing red led, but the coil heats fine.
Maybe due to the lack of led to indicate the end of a heat cycle, but I KEEP combusting
, the smell is getting bad now, which bring me to the 3rd issue....
One of the torx screws is stuck, maybe overtightened at assembly, but I haven't for the life of me been able to get the left screw off, while the right is so easy.
So as of now I'm stuck with a stinky, un-openable, red-LEDless, wobbly mouthpiece ESV. Any ideas? I really like it when I'm able to get a good instant hit, and hoping not to have to send it back across the pond so soon.
Very small vape, though significantly thicker that I pictured.
Sturdy, not to heavy, nice twist magnet lid, every part of it seems well thought out on the outside....except for the mouthpiece, not sure if this is just mine, but it has almost ZERO grip, keeps falling out, sometimes mid-hit. Its whole wobbliness seems far from the sturdiness of the rest of it, should possibly twist in.
It works, just using the preset temps, but the heat light seems to be broken, I have yet to see a flashing red led, but the coil heats fine.
Maybe due to the lack of led to indicate the end of a heat cycle, but I KEEP combusting
, the smell is getting bad now, which bring me to the 3rd issue....One of the torx screws is stuck, maybe overtightened at assembly, but I haven't for the life of me been able to get the left screw off, while the right is so easy.
So as of now I'm stuck with a stinky, un-openable, red-LEDless, wobbly mouthpiece ESV. Any ideas? I really like it when I'm able to get a good instant hit, and hoping not to have to send it back across the pond so soon.
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chillersnov8p
Well-Known Member
Don't know what to say about stuck screw but the light not working is tough. I use the light to help moderate draw speed. Try dropping the temps a bit is all I can suggest.
HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
It works, just using the preset temps, but the heat light seems to be broken, I have yet to see a flashing red led, but the coil heats fine.
Maybe due to the lack of led to indicate the end of a heat cycle, but I KEEP combusting
One of the torx screws is stuck, maybe overtightened at assembly, but I haven't for the life of me been able to get the left screw off, while the right is so easy.
Have you tried a steady draw if you let up on the draw it will reset the 8 second timer and never flash. On the stuck torx screw only suggestion is to try to remove it when unit is warmed up and hot.
OF
Well-Known Member
"Aside from that, how was the play Mrs. Lincoln?" (Edit: I just realized our EU friends don't get the joke, President Lincoln was shot at a play, folklore has it a reporter asked her that question the next day (their assignment, to find out to add to the review of "Our American Cousin") as the President lay dying near by....)
Best to address multiple problems in turn I think, in the general case anyway. IMO the biggest is not being able to open it up, start there?
First, is the key fit truly solid? The last thing we need now is to goof up the hex cavity. Under no conditions force the key hard enough to skip out?
The problem is no doubt due to the metal mismatch. We're screwing a SS screw into Aluminum, not generally a good thing to be doing. Why and preventative steps can wait, for now getting it out is the goal. Aluminum expands and contracts differently than SS, first thing I'd do is put it all in the freezer for a while. If the first shot didn't work I'd probably let it warm up and try a few times more.
Penetrants are another option, but thin oils (probably the best choice) are out, things like ISO and Acetone (which evaporate completely away) aren't very effective as lubes. And access (getting it to the trouble spot) seems mighty poor to me. Best to use other techniques I think. Likewise, ultrasonics are likely to damage the electronics in the bargain?
Once that's under control, bending the coil down seems to fix the combustion issue (it sure did for me). Getting the hot part closer to the sensor and further from the herb helps a lot. IMO it means the 'hot spot' at the front is 'refocused' into a broader, more uniform area. A few wraps of PTFE tape fixes the MP issue easily. I just got some aftermarked MPs that are close but fall out. The MP is depending on about .010 inches for the ring to capture the groove inside effectively. IIRC I have 3-4 turns in mine (so it now grips the bore as well as the groove and all is wonderful in the world.
The lack of LED is not IMO a mission critical failure. A bummer for sure, but you can use it that way? We can address that later, after we get it up and running. A decision has to be made as that involves opening the 'power unit', which violates the warranty. Your call there of course, but first things first? Getting the screw to play nice......
Good luck, standing by.
OF
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
So I received my ESV that I got for half price, although I got sucked 34£ by the customs vampire
Very small vape, though significantly thicker that I pictured.
Sturdy, not to heavy, nice twist magnet lid, every part of it seems well thought out on the outside....except for the mouthpiece, not sure if this is just mine, but it has almost ZERO grip, keeps falling out, sometimes mid-hit. Its whole wobbliness seems far from the sturdiness of the rest of it, should possibly twist in.
It works, just using the preset temps, but the heat light seems to be broken, I have yet to see a flashing red led, but the coil heats fine.
Maybe due to the lack of led to indicate the end of a heat cycle, but I KEEP combusting
One of the torx screws is stuck, maybe overtightened at assembly, but I haven't for the life of me been able to get the left screw off, while the right is so easy.
So as of now I'm stuck with a stinky, un-openable, red-LEDless, wobbly mouthpiece ESV. Any ideas? I really like it when I'm able to get a good instant hit, and hoping not to have to send it back across the pond so soon.
Given the light and screw, sounds like you need to contact Joe at ipuff... Now theres international customer service as well I believe
Read through the thread for tips to avoid combustion, but yeah you gotta get it open to clean that sucker
RelaxedNow
Well-Known Member
Geesh, it seems the solution is obvious; as the LED was not functioning properly upon receipt, contact the vendor about sending it back for repair or replacement. If they don't take care of you, then contact iPuff. Why put up with the frustration of guessing whether you are drawing at the right speed to keep the heater going?
HerbieVonVapster
Well-Known Member
It's not really guessing it's more nature of this vaporizer. Being instant heat on demand the draw speed plays a big role in how this vaporizer works. The poster was trying figure out if was working right before sending it in for repair. Since the red led really is showing how your draw is effecting the heater if you draw's off the lights going be off too. Hope this makes sense long night of pain kinda medicated.
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RelaxedNow
Well-Known Member
Obviously, it could be I'm wrong, but I assumed the poster tried drawing harder. I know, especially when I first received mine, and even now still, the red LED served as a training guide, confirming that I was activating the heating cycle.
It was a rough night.....did I use an excessive number of commas in that last sentence?
OF
Well-Known Member
First off, it's obviously working if he's burning herb. What we don't know yet is if it's working correctly?
And the OP just got it from the half price deal how many months ago? I can understand his not wanting to rush into another few month's delay and giving customs another shot at it. Being sure it's defective is first, then deciding if it's a fatal defect (his call) is the right course IMO.
Obviously, it could be I'm wrong, but I assumed the poster tried drawing harder. I know, especially when I first received mine, and even now still, the red LED served as a training guide, confirming that I was activating the heating cycle.
It was a rough night.....did I use an excessive number of commas in that last sentence?
Could be a bad assumption, as Enchantre suggests it could be a matter of technique. I know I was guilty at first of slacking off the draw enough to 'drop out' sometimes. The light is nice, and comes free with the flow sensor, but IMO it's not 'mission critical gear'.
And no, I think the grammar is just fine......but I like commas so what do I know?
OF
Belgianvapor
Well-Known Member
Today I recieved my package with a bunch extra coils, screen removal tool, stir tool etc.
I'm one of the early adaptors of the elevape and I'm still on my first coil.
I hardly ever combust in the elevape because I learned to notice when it is
time for a cleaning or get combustion.
Right when I got the package, I replaced the coil wich gave me combustion
after the second draw, replaced it with another coil, same result, third coil, same
result... I noticed that the new coils have a bit thicker wire, a bit less close wound up
and they all are at least 30% bigger than my old coil.
The stir tool makes the screen gunk up absurdly fast, and limited the airflow with
what I think is increased risk at combustion as a side effect, so I threw it out.
And no matter how I try, I can't get the screens out, I can't get enough grip with the removal
tool.
So now I'm back to the good old elevape with no enhancements and this is how I like her best !
I'm one of the early adaptors of the elevape and I'm still on my first coil.
I hardly ever combust in the elevape because I learned to notice when it is
time for a cleaning or get combustion.
Right when I got the package, I replaced the coil wich gave me combustion
after the second draw, replaced it with another coil, same result, third coil, same
result... I noticed that the new coils have a bit thicker wire, a bit less close wound up
and they all are at least 30% bigger than my old coil.
The stir tool makes the screen gunk up absurdly fast, and limited the airflow with
what I think is increased risk at combustion as a side effect, so I threw it out.
And no matter how I try, I can't get the screens out, I can't get enough grip with the removal
tool.
So now I'm back to the good old elevape with no enhancements and this is how I like her best !
Vapzilla
Well-Known Member
Sorry for the late reply and the fit. I had ordered three of them and finally found the other two that I misplaced. The one I have been using does fit tight, I can even hold it by the MP and will hold the weight of the EV.
Now the other two are much looser, not falling out, they're snug but not nice and tight.
The easy fix is to replace the oring. The one that came on it is a clear, maybe silicone material. I used some black, probably buna, from a drip tip for a 510 ecig atty/tank.
It's a little smaller on the inside diameter but easily stretches over and the thicker cross section of the oring will provide a good seal. I actually have to turn it while inserting it to get it to seat.
If you don't have any I'm sure a local vape shop or a stop at the hardware store will tighten you right up!
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Had similar issues removing lower screen retainer, had to send it to Joe. Also noticed about coil size, they def run hotter, but noticing the thickness is a good call. Gotta bend the new ones down to control em better
Jack Sprat
Well-Known Member
Any thoughts on relative humidity and the Elevape? What I'm using is around 62%, and with a straight coil and temp settings of 390-410-430, I couldn't combust if my life depended on it. Not really producing any clouds either at those temps. Any thoughts on this?
Doesn't work on mine with v 2.02 of the app , and firmware v1.30.@RelaxedNow Maybe try downloading the original app, this is what I use, personal preference.
Then try doing a "soft reset" on your unit.
This is simple to do, and it will reset your unit which should fix your issue.
To Soft Reset:
1-Do not plug in your Elevape to your computer.
2-open which ever version of the app you have.
3-crank all 3 temps to max temperature (450F on my app)
4-plug your Elevape into the computer.
Your are done. The unit has now been reset, and the app should automatically reset the Elevape to the previously preset 3 temperatures.
I hope this helps my friend!
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Vapor Loop
Well-Known Member
I had that problem with mine at first and had to send it off for repair, It work's wonderful now and can certainly combust when taken too high. I was able to get ok vapor by hardcore coil flashing when mine was malfunctioning, This is something you don't wan't to do when it's working properly tho.
Jack Sprat
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply. Do you have any idea what they did to fix it? I'm thinking it might be a firmware issue as I also can't reset it per @Vape Dr. instructions. My temps stay at my set level when I try a soft reset.
PPN
Volute of Vapor
I'm without my ESV since I sent my power module to the European Elevape service center, on the top of the shipping adress I wrote "Elevape service center" in place of Kriztian P. and my package is coming back to me....
A bit disappointed cause I wrote the adress Joe provided to me (without name), not a big deal but my ESV miss to me and I plan to do some sessions before to send it back to warranty again (cause low battery autonomy)
A bit disappointed cause I wrote the adress Joe provided to me (without name), not a big deal but my ESV miss to me and I plan to do some sessions before to send it back to warranty again (cause low battery autonomy)
OF
Well-Known Member
Bummer. All is not lost, perhaps. Time to consider a 'broken screw extractor' like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Damaged-Screw...63296&sr=8-11&keywords=broken+screw+extractor
There are several styles of these, you want that kind with a fine spiral profile (avoid straight flute and steep spirals which don't grip well in shallow holes). I've had good luck salvaging such cases this way. You need to fit the extractor carefully, grind the tip back until it 'just fits' so it doesn't bottom out in the broached hex hole.
Two other techniques are possible. You can 'punch' them loose sometimes by using a center punch at an angle around the outer edge at an angle to impart a rotation. Or you can break out the Dremel and carefully enlarge the hex hole into a slot and put a normal screwdriver in. Both take some skill/experience however.
It's also possible, sometimes, to 'drill out the screw' but going straight down the hex hole with a twist bit carefully selected to drill through the head and be wide enough to cut the screw shank below (wider than the 'root' of the threaded part). A drill press and vice are key here I think.
Good luck with it. Once you strip the hex out, it's a toughie for sure.
OF