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grogazola

Well-Known Member
I had 5 cracked bodies 3 on a maple and 2 on a cherry.
Sent them in each time and my understanding is they changed the metal sleeve to help alleviate this a couple years ago.
The last replacement bodies are still intact so the fix must be a good one?
Whoa that’s pretty wild...thanks for letting me know. Do you ever oil the wood? How long you had your e-nanos for before they cracked?
 

ACE OF VAPE

Vape outside the box
Manufacturer
I had 5 cracked bodies 3 on a maple and 2 on a cherry.
Sent them in each time and my understanding is they changed the metal sleeve to help alleviate this a couple years ago.
The last replacement bodies are still intact so the fix must be a good one?
You must have set the record for cracked bodies! We did upgrade the cylinder a few years ago to give the bodies more room to breathe which almost (but not entirely) eliminated bodies cracking. Maybe one out of a couple hundred still cracks because some wood just does, and we replace them. I wish my Martin D-35 rosewood guitar had the same warranty policy we do, as I just spent $500 to have the cracks in it's back repaired.
 

Eespiajer

Well-Known Member
Cracked body is due to my misfortune. I would never blame a company for my own accidents. Its fallen from table height a couple of times onto hard wood floor. It cracked and the heating element got exposed. But it fit snuggly back in. They do not crack easily unless it falls on any hard material like asphalt or hard wood floor. But that's with any device though.

Here's some tips on using the device.

How i use my device is that I boost it 10. For 5mins. This primes it. Then hit it at the desire temp. After 1 minute. Since mines been virtually on for almost a decade. Then I have to use a higher temps. Like 8 or 9 instead of 6.5 or 7 which is the temp you should use when first receiving the device. You can leave your device on for days at a time. Thats the beauty of this..

This is the best desktop vape on the market. Goes close to hitting a dab without the concentrate. 2 loads feel like a hit of distillate for me. I would not hit concentrate on it , you can , the preparation is too messy for me. Plus cotton balls are a pain.

I've had both gongs the built in glass screen on replaceable. I would go with the replaceable. Just clean and blow and clean you screens after each use these can last 6months. Or else you'll get encrusted screens which could only get a days use. Also is hard to get off. Glass screens holes a little too big for my liking, so your grind has to be a little big larger than usual can't be fine like you usually like it. You can try mixing up the grind I presume. But I love the replaceable screens can't seem to use anything else.

As the fill, you need a fine grind imo. Like best grinder i found for this job was the fine grinder from mflb. I don't have that anymore but I had the primo experience with that grinder with this. I bought a planet of the vapes clone grinder it was awful it was usable, but the grind and consistency made me use to much product. Like using 1gram and 1.5gram nugs in a total of 5-10 bowls.
It was baffling. Grinding it upside down may help but if all is lost. Just pull small pieces from the nug kind and it put it lightly in the bowl. When the bowl is full to the top, pack lightly . Then you should have a small space to put the enano on the top. If its to close to your herb, it can and will combust.

Theres no secret to the draw for water. Just let it rip. Ive rarely this product dry, probably used it once when. I recieved it. Dry vaping is just never good for the lungs and I don't really recommend it, its not my cup of tea, that's all. If you try it dry vaping its just like using an mflb, arizer or a pax. Just slow sipping motion like if you were drinking through a straw slowly.
 
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Pete

Well-Known Member
I just realized my maple Enano turns 5 years old next month. I've been using it daily since I first got it. About three years ago I put it on a smart plug and have it turn on for 6 hours every day. The unit still looks brand new.

I have the original adjustable stems and GonG I got with it. They also look like new and still have their original metal screens. I switched to the ice stem when they first came out. I recently heard there is an adjustable ice stem and just ordered it because I prefer the metal screen to the glass screen, which lets through too many flakes for my liking.

The only care I have given the heating unit is I conditioned the wood ONCE when I first got it. Once in a blue moon, I will notice some flakes lying on the bottom of the aluminum airflow cylinder and clean them out with a damp brush. That's it, and it looks new.

I originally cleaned the stems as EpicVape suggests by putting them in the plastic cylinder they came in with a little iso and shaking. The plastic containers soon cracked and since then I've been using a glass jar of 92% iso. I put the stems in the jar for a few seconds every two or three uses. I like clean stems so they don't mess up the taste. It takes 10 seconds of soaking them followed by a quick rinse with water and done.

I can't imagine any other vaporizer this reliable or requiring essentially no care or cleaning. On top of it being tasty and efficient.
 
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Pete

Well-Known Member
I got the adjustable ice stem last week. Wow - I hadn't realized how much draw resistance the fixed screen ice stem had. which I've been using for the last couple of years. The new ice stem has no draw resistance at all, in spite of the beads. It came with the new basket that is placed in it cup side down. I'd like to reverse it and put it in the way the older baskets are - it seems easier to blow and scrape out that way. But I can't figure how to push it out so I can reverse it. Any hints? It came with a pipe cleaner stuck in it which I think is there to adjust the basket, but it is hard to push with all the beads in the way.
 

howie105

Well-Known Member
I got the adjustable ice stem last week. Wow - I hadn't realized how much draw resistance the fixed screen ice stem had. which I've been using for the last couple of years. The new ice stem has no draw resistance at all, in spite of the beads. It came with the new basket that is placed in it cup side down. I'd like to reverse it and put it in the way the older baskets are - it seems easier to blow and scrape out that way. But I can't figure how to push it out so I can reverse it. Any hints? It came with a pipe cleaner stuck in it which I think is there to adjust the basket, but it is hard to push with all the beads in the way.
When I unloaded the screen and the balls out of my adjustable ice stem I was trying to shake the water out of the stem after an ISO and water rinse. If that is not working then it sounds like pointed tine tweezers time. Good Luck
 

2clicker

Observer
questions about e-nano stems. do the adjustable screen stems have some sort of stop in them? or adjustable all the way through the stem tube? i would think that the screen could be adjusted, unintentionally, when emptying and loading. or when scraping blockage out of the screen, it could push it down further.

i am thinking about ordering the glass screen stems, and still using a dome SS mesh screen, using the glass screen as a "stop" for the mesh screen. like i do with my Solo stems.
 

Pete

Well-Known Member
When I unloaded the screen and the balls out of my adjustable ice stem I was trying to shake the water out of the stem after an ISO and water rinse. If that is not working then it sounds like pointed tine tweezers time. Good Luck
Good warning - I generally blow it out over the sink. Those balls would go right down the drain.

questions about e-nano stems. do the adjustable screen stems have some sort of stop in them? or adjustable all the way through the stem tube? i would think that the screen could be adjusted, unintentionally, when emptying and loading. or when scraping blockage out of the screen, it could push it down further.

i am thinking about ordering the glass screen stems, and still using a dome SS mesh screen, using the glass screen as a "stop" for the mesh screen. like i do with my Solo stems.
No stop, they are held in by friction. At least with the old metal screens, they hold their position very well. They never moved at all in spite of me scrapping them out every use. Simply not an issue. I have to use a chopstick to move them when I wanted to adjust their position.
 

ACE OF VAPE

Vape outside the box
Manufacturer
I got the adjustable ice stem last week. Wow - I hadn't realized how much draw resistance the fixed screen ice stem had. which I've been using for the last couple of years. The new ice stem has no draw resistance at all, in spite of the beads. It came with the new basket that is placed in it cup side down. I'd like to reverse it and put it in the way the older baskets are - it seems easier to blow and scrape out that way. But I can't figure how to push it out so I can reverse it. Any hints? It came with a pipe cleaner stuck in it which I think is there to adjust the basket, but it is hard to push with all the beads in the way.
Either tweezers, a bent paper clip, or dental tool you can carefully drag it out a little at a time going around in a circle.
 

Sparkpug

Well-Known Member
My Nano sits on a wood tray and has been on 24/7 since I plugged it in. It's so much easier just being able to load a stem and take a puff whenever I need and not have to rely on a heat up time, even if it's short. Once you've used and left your Nano on, nothing else is "short" anymore.
 

maremaresing

Well-Known Member
questions about e-nano stems. do the adjustable screen stems have some sort of stop in them? or adjustable all the way through the stem tube? i would think that the screen could be adjusted, unintentionally, when emptying and loading. or when scraping blockage out of the screen, it could push it down further.

i am thinking about ordering the glass screen stems, and still using a dome SS mesh screen, using the glass screen as a "stop" for the mesh screen. like i do with my Solo stems.
They do, and it sucks. Fortunately the tool they include gives you a good idea of recommended placement, a poker tool from the other side can move things back in place.

Since a cheap glass stem can be used, I'm ok with it. VS a metal and plastic stem.
 

snackmaster

Well-Known Member
I use adjustable gongs and the only time my screens ever move is right after things have been cleaned and I'm not being careful. It's easy enough to avoid that and once I've used a gong a bit the screen stays put. I also place my silicone guard things where I want the screens so I can tell if they've moved and can easily get them back where I want them. I think the new screens available now hold better than the old ones too.
 

howie105

Well-Known Member
I started out with a nail with two notches filed into it, one to set the screen depth and one to set the load depth. Down the road I started armoring my stems with high temp O-rings (less breakage) which gave me 1/16" reference points on the oven end of the stem. Still have the nail to set the screen depth, but it has its own sleeve and stop collar now.
 

2clicker

Observer
They do, and it sucks. Fortunately the tool they include gives you a good idea of recommended placement, a poker tool from the other side can move things back in place.

Since a cheap glass stem can be used, I'm ok with it. VS a metal and plastic stem.

would be nice to see the stems have some sort of dimple in them. something like an "ice pinch" on a tube. that would keep them in place once pushed in and against the dimple. then again that would limit how large of a load that can be used, for those who keep their screens deep.

seems like a small issue that doesn't seem to affect many users, but still a decent idea. idk. i get ocd on shit like that. i dont want to have to adjust it back and forth. i want to set it and forget it. the reason this is an issue for me is because the wife never clears the spent flower after her session. so when i get to it there is a cooled down spent load caked into the screen. i usually have to do some scraping and i know i would be pushing that screen around.

anyway, sounds like i will just need to order the glass screen stems, and use that as the dimple. just like i do with my Solo stems.
 

Philabrookla

@philabrookla
would be nice to see the stems have some sort of dimple in them. something like an "ice pinch" on a tube. that would keep them in place once pushed in and against the dimple. then again that would limit how large of a load that can be used, for those who keep their screens deep.

seems like a small issue that doesn't seem to affect many users, but still a decent idea. idk. i get ocd on shit like that. i dont want to have to adjust it nd forth. i want to set it and forget it. the reason this is an issue for me is because the wife never clears the spent flower after her session. so when i get to it there is a cooled down spent load caked into the screen. i usually have to do some scraping and i know i would be pushing that screen around.

anyway, sounds like i will just need to order the glass screen stems, and use that as the dimple. just like i do with my Solo stems.
Dang I wish my wife would blow her loads for me too, always stuffin my screens up with cold avb rez.
 

maremaresing

Well-Known Member
Yeah, glass screen is the answer for you here. Putting a dimple or something in there would increase cost and decrease simplicity, so I'm fine with it. But I feel your pain.
 
maremaresing,
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LooseCucumber

Well-Known Member
I lurked FC for a couple years before I purchased my nano, summer of 2015. I upgraded to this vape after my Pinnacle (smh) decided to stop working. This vape had alot of hype years ago good to see it still relevant. E nano was my main vape for almost 5.5 years and it still runs well. I've added more than a few vapes to the stable but this conquered my VAS for years.

It's still the pinnacle of efficiency, it has skewed my views towards other vapes when rating them on efficiency. I recently switched to glass screens after getting sick of cleaning the adjustable ones and having to place them back in the stem. My unit has taken some dings, and I blasted the screen on top of the heating unit with a torch after stacking too big of a glob of oil on top of herb(LOL) to remove the residue, and it still works well. I wish I could post a picture but I'm forum illiterate. Timeless units, everyone should own a Log.
 

howie105

Well-Known Member
As a rule I never remove the screens from the stem either, I just push them to the end of the stem, so I can give them a good scrubbing.
 
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