E-Nano from Epickai

[snamuh]

See this is why I'm asking lol but no it's not too hot to make me remove my hand but it's hot. But yet it's still the best results I've had

From using a MFLB and a VaporGenie i can tell you draw speed is very important try drawing slowly...

I had the vg and had only "okay" results for awhile and then got a mflb. using the mflb made me learn about the importance of draw speed.... going back to the VG and using what i learned made a huge difference.

edit: its probably best to practice draw speed with out a water pipe... then you can feel the difference of heat and how it corresponds to your draw speed.

 

[NickDlow]

Lol ok never mind guys thanks for the tips all this was already posted I don't want too flood this up with things already talked about thanks again

 

[Delta3DStudios]

Woot! Just wanted to share with everyone here my new extremely custom worked KRAKEN GonG stem from @VaPeD&CoNfUsEd

I had a random (h)idea several months back for a carb'd Nano stem with tentacles which would seem to emanate from the Nano itself. @VaPeD&CoNfUsEd really pulled it off!

More pictures available here: http://imgur.com/QMTAvvH,ROvNH1m,hOfkdSr,tkXhD91#0

 

[Tickdickler]

Hey all, I've been dormant on here for awhile. I got my nano in May 2014 and today the unit keeps turning on and off if I move it or the cable. I emailed customerservice@epicvape.com just now. Has anyone else had this happen to their nano? I can't tell if its just the chord that is messed up or the unit itself. If I jiggle either alone without moving the other the unit still malfunctions.

 

[NickDlow]

Here's my little experiment with the way I load my GonG and temps. I turned down to 7.5 n let it sit for 2 hrs to cool. From there I went up to ten by .5's.(7.5,8,8.5,9,9.5,10). I use the adjust a bowl and a screen from Ed's TnT stems.

I found out where she milks lol n I found my sweet spot but it's still warmer than most. Well it works for me. All with no combustion!

 

[Delta3DStudios]

Yeah, you're getting decent vapor density, but you're over-complicating the bowl. I believe with the method you're using (encasing the entire herb in a screen oven), you'd need to let the screens heat-soak for an extra 20-30 seconds to get some nice milk

For the sake of simplicity, take all that out, turn your basket over (so the basket is upside down). Use the e-pik as a guide for the depth. Don't use any extra screen between the nano's heater and the material. With 0.1g of material, my heater is usually close, but not entirely touching the material.

Just try that and see how it goes. Guaranteed you'll combust at 9+

 

[NickDlow]

That's what I'm trying to avoid FUCK COMBUSTION! Lol they need a smiley tossin up the bird cuz I'd use that right now. Each draw had 45 sec heat soak btw

 

[Tweak]

I found out where she milks lol n I found my sweet spot but it's still warmer than most. Well it works for me. All with no combustion!

Do you have access to a volt meter or Kill-A-Watt? My sweet spot is 12V.

Fully heated, my nano will brown the top layer of my load as low as 6.5, IMO your unit is running cold. I could never imagine using 10 on my dial, I've never ventured above 7.

 

[EverythingsHazy]

Does the units build allow an IR Thermometer check the temps accurately, or is it too awkward?

If so, I'm curious how hot each setting gets. (Unless someone already knows this and/or posted it, and would like to share.)

 

[Delta3DStudios]

Does the units build allow an IR Thermometer check the temps accurately, or is it too awkward?

If so, I'm curious how hot each setting gets. (Unless someone already knows this and/or posted it, and would like to share.)

IR sensors are notoriously inaccurate at measuring precise temperatures of small objects like heating elements (think of it as a 1-pixel FLIR - it takes an 'average' temperature over a broad range).

You're better off with a temperature probe (thermistor)

 

[Gray Area]

Fully heated, my nano will brown the top layer of my load as low as 6.5, IMO your unit is running cold. I could never imagine using 10 on my dial, I've never ventured above 7.

This is exactly how mine seems to be working too. In the UK, using extension cords and 240>110 inverter (not sure if that even makes a difference). Have combusted on 7 once when the load touched the heater screen. Tend to run at 6.5 and adjust the dial a tiny amount either side to fine tune...

I agree about the screen orientation too. Flip it round and lose the top one. I reckon you'll get similar results with less power/heat. Is this method you've posted the only way you've tried yet?

That aside running at 10 and not burning plant matter just sounds wrong. I think I'd be talking to Andy if it were my unit.

 

[NickDlow]

I've never flipped the screen and I've tried it without the screen on top. I was basically using it as a buffer between the bud n heat screen. I'm not complaining about not combusting. It prob would combust without the extra screen if it were touching. But I don't want to try it lol. I will flip the screen n try just like that n see if I get different results. Until it doesn't produce vapour or always combust then I don't see any problems honestly. But I'll be trying different shit thank for all the tips

 

[HSIHP]

I just had a though about the temperature discrepancies. This may have been asked before, but at what number does everyone's dial start?

Mine starts at about .25 and doesn't click on until about .75. At max temp it is at about 10.5.

I always start at 6.5 and finish at 7.5 and have no reason to go any high than that. With. My scree as close as it is I bet I would combust around 9.

 

[fregglepops]

Hey all, I've been dormant on here for awhile. I got my nano in May 2014 and today the unit keeps turning on and off if I move it or the cable. I emailed customerservice@epicvape.com just now. Has anyone else had this happen to their nano? I can't tell if its just the chord that is messed up or the unit itself. If I jiggle either alone without moving the other the unit still malfunctions.

Yeah but I sent it back and am waiting on a new one. No biggie,Andy will sort you out.

 

[Delta3DStudios]

I just had a though about the temperature discrepancies. This may have been asked before, but at what number does everyone's dial start?

Mine starts at about .25 and doesn't click on until about .75. At max temp it is at about 10.5.

I always start at 6.5 and finish at 7.5 and have no reason to go any high than that. With. My scree as close as it is I bet I would combust around 9.

You can pop off the dial and re-position it so the arrow lands on 0. I've had to do this several times when re-assembling my 3D printed PWM case.

 

[Snappo]

Here's my little experiment with the way I load my GonG and temps. I turned down to 7.5 n let it sit for 2 hrs to cool. From there I went up to ten by .5's.(7.5,8,8.5,9,9.5,10). I use the adjust a bowl and a screen from Ed's TnT stems.

I found out where she milks lol n I found my sweet spot but it's still warmer than most. Well it works for me. All with no combustion!

That's some very impressive vapor, imo! One thing to consider also which may account for the higher heat dial numbers is that Amboyna burl is a very dense wood and may pull/hold a bit of heat away from the core, thus requiring that you dial in a higher number to compensate. My Olive Wood log vape is also extremely dense and requires higher heat settings. The fact that I never combust at those temps evidences also for me that I'm correct. This would be true of all log vapes, as temp sweet spots will vary from one wood species to another. Of course, then also, all other variables will require tailored adjustments, e.g., screen distance, load grind & pack, strain & cure, ambient room temp, etc. If you feel that you'd like your Nano to run a little hotter still, perhaps Andy can make a minor adjustment to the heater core internally, which I've been given to understand can be done. I would venture to say, however, that your Nano is working spectacularly well based on what I've seen in your video!

 

[NickDlow]

Thanks @Snappo i was wondering if the wood species played a factor. I am very very happy with the vapour production. I think my nano is running perfectly also! I love it

 

[biohacker]

Been playing with my beloved Nano all evening and decided to switch back to whole nugs! Even on temp 6, with a med/fine grind, the vapour was so thick that it was starting to seriously give me coughing attacks on the exhale, and irritrated the crap out of my lungs. So now with whole nugs i'm finding i've cranked it up just a notch to 6.5, and the vapour is so much smoother, very tasty, and i'm actually enjoying the process of breaking the buds down with the awesome e-pik and then getting even bigger clouds that are still very comfortable on my lungs. I continue to have a love affair with my Nano after 10 months, this has never happened before, I really think this is the one!

 

[EverythingsHazy]

Even on temp 6, with a med/fine grind, the vapour was so thick that it was starting to seriously give me coughing attacks on the exhale, and irritrated the crap out of my lungs.

Vapor's too dense... best problem ever.

 

[HSIHP]

You can pop off the dial and re-position it so the arrow lands on 0. I've had to do this several times when re-assembling my 3D printed PWM case.

I knew this was an option but I really like me sweet spots now. I was just pointing out the different vapes could start in different places.

 

[Tweak]

Thanks to @macbill and @NickDlow I have attempted to make some nano basket screens.

The results:

High output screen on left ---------------------- stock nano screen on right

I'm always looking for a way to lessen the resistance of the nano, I think I've finally found a solution, . I've since replaced all my stock screens.

 

[exit]

Yeah i have hte basket so it is upside down and move it up and down slightly, never needs to be removed for ideal airflow.

i know this picture is a little confusing but bear with me... i couldnt get a clear one to come out and gave up...

the black bracket is the basket screen. you can see the flat part is on top and the ridges face downwards. like a table, not like a cup.

the ( looking part is the range of how far up i keep the basket pushed. i also push the basket back and forth between this height when i move it around to clear up edge wand hash which prevents airflow

after every load scrape out the corners and repack.

 

[Newcastle]

The wand hash from the gong is wonderful. I add a small amount to a regular bowl and the vapor production and strength is clearly thicker and stronger. By small I say half a mouse turd....lol

 

[biohacker]

The Nano never ceases to amaze me with how well it not only does with flowers (my god does it do them well), but also concentrates....last night I was on a budder bender and with tiny pieces wrapped in cotton, it milked like no other! Flawless convection taste! Such a versatile little vape!

 

[vapordab]

After having the nano for few weeks, I've noticed that my other 3 vaporizers (all bought in the past 1.5 years-damn you VAS) haven't been seeing much use at all!

At first I was a little disappointed by the smaller capacity of the nano GONG'S and stems, but now I see it as a giant advantage for flavor!

I think that my VAS is finally cured with the nano. And in the end all four of my vaporizers(nano,herbalaire,hammer,flowermate) came out to about the same price as the one "top teir" vaporizer that I had planned to buy originally

I have nobody but FC to thank for helping me make the right decisions on what was right for me, thanks everybody!

Time for a GONG with the new 186-1. The GAS can never be cured for me

You can pop off the dial and re-position it so the arrow lands on 0. I've had to do this several times when re-assembling my 3D printed PWM case.

Great information! Now the numbers that most use make more sense