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Dynalowrider

Well-Known Member
I firmly believed that when I signed on here this morning that I would be banished for my rant on here last evening. Well you guys restored a little faith of my fellow vapers in me. I'm doing my best to not be political. I'm not for one party or another. I just hate stupidity. I like and believe in "Science". "If you are stupid and say stupid things then stupid people will believe and do stupid things." I take a look how my country has fallen in the last few years I want to cry.
Thank you FCers for helping me survive reaching old age.
In research I have found, that it is not necessary to file the notches in the tip. If you tweak the digger to friction the fins enough to keep the disks from being against the load . Which shuts off the end of the tip.
Captive cap also. All my caps are captive caps Try it you will like it. Doc
 

stark1

Lonesome Planet
One of the reasons me and my dog keep away from adults is their stupid as stupid can be attitude.
Almost like injecting Lysol into your body stupid.

As long as you keep away from the mobs, @Dynalowrider you should be good to go. Be well.

On a different note, Holy Smokes, Moses, Mom, the little Caldron is smaller than I had imagined!
(Was so flamboozled, I had the ruler upside down) :ko:



No June Borgs, yet.
 
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junny89

Well-Known Member
First of all @Dynalowrider , Texas is a great place to be from. I can speak on such things. 35 years gone from hell!

Alpine 2020 is a brainchild of ToggenGear to back-fill the market with yet another battery powered IH. I couldn't help myself and wanted this style for my table top. It is basically a PSM in a new wrapper. Due to start shipping in June. $99 pre-order is now active. Catch the coupon for signing up to the only retailer selling these. I think $84 is possible. ...and free shipping, no less.

I managed to get quite a few for my shop and will be selling these in the UK.
If anyone hasn’t managed to grab one and they all sell out please pm me I can sort it out.
 
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TommyDee

Vaporitor
The worldwide IH shortage has hit the world market.
IH modules are now scarce and people are hording them, myself included.
What was going on average for $5.50 is now $11.
We should demand the FED crack down on China for price-gouging of the medically vulnerable.
:razz:
 

BabyFacedFinster

Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
No @TommyDee 's analysis is is correct. The tip cap interface and the CCD are the limiting factors. My vapcaps are most restricted by the tip/cap. However there are clear differences in how I perceive the vapor from large bore stems vs smaller bore stems. I have a 8mm ID by 110mm long SS stem (no airport). This stem is the most joint like vapor I have experienced. Perhaps thick and rich is a fair description, flavor more nuanced, less focused.

The airflow is 10x better on my 19M SS tip in a Rogue glass stem than the C-vap I'm sending to my father. I wanted to adjust it so he has a better experience. But I didn't know if it was the grooves in the distal end of the tip, or maybe the smaller diameter of the regular condenser compared to the large ID of the glass stem. It is quite noticeable, even for mouthpulls.

In research I have found, that it is not necessary to file the notches in the tip. If you tweak the digger to friction the fins enough to keep the disks from being against the load . Which shuts off the end of the tip.
Captive cap also.

I am intrigued, but don't quite understand what you are doing in your adjustments? I don't use a captive cap though.
 
BabyFacedFinster,
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Planck

believes in Dog
The airflow is 10x better on my 19M SS tip in a Rogue glass stem than the C-vap I'm sending to my father. I wanted to adjust it so he has a better experience. But I didn't know if it was the grooves in the distal end of the tip, or maybe the smaller diameter of the regular condenser compared to the large ID of the glass stem. It is quite noticeable, even for mouthpulls.



I am intrigued, but don't quite understand what you are doing in your adjustments? I don't use a captive cap though.

You could swap the tips and caps and see how they draw.
You could remove the tips from the stems and see how the draw compares with no stem at all.

I believe @Dynalowrider is suggesting you make the cap a tight fit by bending the digger outter more towards the stem. The flow volume should increase in the cap is held away from the tip a bit. @TommyDee achieves this with a bit of wire in the cap. He posted images of his method in this thread.

Hope this helps. :)
 

notams

toke down Babylon
RE magnets:

Don't use hot glue on neodymium magnets. The heat may negatively impact the magnetism (I've heard or read somewhere and have zero data to back this up).

Also, if buying a magnet for your vapcap be aware that the round magnets used on DV branded items are DIAMETRICALLY magnetized. Most (like 90%) neodymium disc magnets on Amazon are axially magnetized.

Axially magetized is sometimes referring to as being "magnetitized through the thickness". That phrase is meaningless and confusing to me.

If there is graphic you can see if the North (often colored red) & South poles are on the flat sides (axial) or if the poles are on the curved edges (diametric).

Why does this matter? Axially magnetized discs will stick to your fridge head side and tale side. However, Vapcaps will not attract to the center of an axially magnetized disc, only the edge.

With a diametrically magnetized disc only one side will stick to your fridge and your vapcap will be attracted to the center of that side. Unfortunately, this means you can't "stick" your diametrically magnetized disc to ferrous materials and also attach a cap at the same time. Thus, glue.

I searched Amazon for "diametrically magnetized neodymium disc" and the results were NOT diametrically magnetized neodymium disc magnets. They were clearly axially magnetized as is illustrated in the item pictures. The words "axial" and "diametric" are meaningless to Amazon vendors and rarely used. However, it is a very important detail for this crowd.

So, avoid being disappointed. Don't assume round magnets are all created equal. They aren't.
 

Dynalowrider

Well-Known Member
If the digger is bent slightly in to the stem in the end 1/16" of the digger. It can be set in between the fins, there by adjusting the space between the the clicker disks and the load. No scorched load, and more air flow. Doc

Stop and visualize how the air flows through the VC with the airport closed. The squared off tips were shut off with the clickers.
 

Xclerk

The Universe is our endless supply
@stark1 As you wish
https://ibb.co/1ZyDCBS
1ZyDCBS
 

Fat Freddy

FUCK CANCER TOO !
If the digger is bent slightly in to the stem in the end 1/16" of the digger. It can be set in between the fins, there by adjusting the space between the the clicker disks and the load. No scorched load, and more air flow. Doc

Stop and visualize how the air flows through the VC with the airport closed. The squared off tips were shut off with the clickers.

So are you saying you bend just the last 1/16" of the digger into an "L" shape in the direction of the space between the fins, in essence wedging the digger tip between fins, and thereby lifting the cap in order to create an air space between the cap/disks and the end of the tip?

And if I've described your technique correctly, it sounds like it can only be used with flame heat, as opposed to an IH?

.
 
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humblesmurph

Well-Known Member
I've been told that butane lighters are very unreliable. With this in mind, when I've had butane lighters fail in the past, I didn't really bother to troubleshoot/fix them. I liked Bics better anyway for my purposes. Anyway...

I have regular 3-5 dollar torch lighter that had fluid in it, but would not ignite. It turns out, there was too much air in the torch. Pressing the valve with a knife to let out the air solved this. The air is all out when butane spits out. As I understand it, generally I should be emptying the lighter fully before refilling for optimal performance.

If this is common knowledge, I apologize for the redundancy.
If youtube links are not allowed, I apologize again.
 

thejackalsmark

Just another "Person Of Interest"
I've been told that butane lighters are very unreliable. With this in mind, when I've had butane lighters fail in the past, I didn't really bother to troubleshoot/fix them. I liked Bics better anyway for my purposes. Anyway...

I have regular 3-5 dollar torch lighter that had fluid in it, but would not ignite. It turns out, there was too much air in the torch. Pressing the valve with a knife to let out the air solved this. The air is all out when butane spits out. As I understand it, generally I should be emptying the lighter fully before refilling for optimal performance.

If this is common knowledge, I apologize for the redundancy.
If youtube links are not allowed, I apologize again.

First, NO problem.

That's WHY this thread and this forum EXIST. :tup:

NOBODY is BORN knowing some shit like that.

I had torches for quite a while before I learned that.

When you clear out the fuel line in your lighter, make sure the filling point is facing UP.

When your lighter is fairly filled and you let out a little excess air, this is called "burping" the lighter.

If she's near empty or you notice problems and inconsistencies with performance...

"Bleed" ALL the air out,
STILL with the filling point facing UP, and then slowly fill your lighter, ALSO in THAT position. :nod:

When you hold the can of butane, turn it upside down to fill your lighter, SLOWLY, first!

THAT will help keep some excess air from getting in there in the first place.

BUTANE settles to BOTTOM of
anything.. . AIR rises.

Hence the problems and inconsistencies when lighting your torch in a typical "Up" position.

If there is any air in your lighter's tank it's going to naturally rise right to the top where you're trying to ignite from.

When you turn a still can slowly upside down it helps prevent the air in the can from mixing all into the butane right before you fill! :tup:


Always remember to hold the lighter in your hand or set it aside for a minute, afterwards, for everything to settle.

These steps WON'T turn a SHIT torch into a PREMIUM number, BUT you should notice A WORLD of difference in ANY refillable torch! :tup: :rockon:

ALSO,

Try to get the most PREMIUM butane you can. At LEAST "TRIPLE" refined!

It DOES make a difference.
Best I have access to here, without ordering online is "Newport".

"Lucienne" butane is some of the BEST.

NEVER get "RONSON" or NEON!
They are some of the dirtiest! :nod:

I Hope that helps some folks! :clap:

Happy Vaping! :leaf: :wave:
 
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ArthurJ

Well-Known Member
Showing off the latest editions to my collection. The fabulous little stand and two wooden pieces in the front arrived from across the pond just the other day, my absolute favorites. Thanks @Aezhenn. The glass piece just behind them I got not too long ago from @RogueGuy, also very nice. I just love the work the artisan types out there do.

 

Fat Freddy

FUCK CANCER TOO !
Showing off the latest editions to my collection. The fabulous little stand and two wooden pieces in the front arrived from across the pond just the other day, my absolute favorites. Thanks @Aezhenn. The glass piece just behind them I got not too long ago from @RogueGuy, also very nice. I just love the work the artisan types out there do.


Nice stems! BTW, what is the pull like with those large ID glass liners, say, as compared to a typical SS liner?

Also, are the glass liners/MPs replaceable after they get broken?

TIA!

.
 

StringTheorista

Well-Known Member
23-CEB7-CF-FED9-4249-B30-B-DB78-CC3-ADB0-A.jpg
RE magnets:

Also, if buying a magnet for your vapcap be aware that the round magnets used on DV branded items are DIAMETRICALLY magnetized. Most (like 90%) neodymium disc magnets on Amazon are axially magnetized.
/snip/
However, Vapcaps will not attract to the center of an axially magnetized disc, only the edge.

Hey, look what you can do with axially magnetized magnets so prolific on Amazon. Also work in pairs
 

Fat Freddy

FUCK CANCER TOO !
Beautiful. That should breath a lot better.

If that is an '18-M I also spaced the cap from the tip with a strip of stainless steel flat wire bent in an S-shape. Others have filed little scallops in the bowl to let air in like the Ti tips and the '19-M. I still prefer the wire although it is an extra thing to manage when cleaning.


I was getting ready to dremmel groves on some of my tips but came across your post...wondering what you used to fashion the SS, s-shaped piece that elevates your cap off the tip?


TIA!
.
 
Fat Freddy,

TommyDee

Vaporitor
@StringTheorista - That is a way cool find. Turns out 3 works but the magnets aren't happy. Too fucking bad for the magnets. I have 3 super strong little 6mm dots. The cap self-centers if I force them together.

I was getting ready to dremmel groves on some of my tips but came across your post...wondering what you used to fashion the SS, s-shaped piece that elevates your cap off the tip?


TIA!
.

I salvage everything. I has a shim from a disc drive motor. Tested to be stainless steel so I took my good pair of scissors (only used for quality sheet metals like stainless and copper), and zipped an edge off about 1mm-.05" wide. Twisted that up into an S-shape that would hold well in the cap. Made sure it was well seated with the '18 tip, which easily doubles as a placement tool hitting 4 points along the S-shape. I was aiming to clear the first cooling fin. Alternatives include stainless steel wire or wire of choice that at least meets coil-sanctioned status in the world of vapes. Bottom line, I want to get the rim of the tip away from the crimp of the cap. Even the clicker in the cool-orientation (concave) would interfere with draw resistance before this mod.
 
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