• Do NOT click on any vaporpedia.com links. The domain has been compromised and will attempt to infect your system. See https://fuckcombustion.com/threads/warning-vaporpedia-com-has-been-compromised.54960/.

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
I have combusted a couple times in my Nonavong and the condenser took the stinkyness for the most part leaving the wood mostly unbothered. What little smell did get to it dissipated on its own in a few days. For the most part a good cleaning of the condenser and tip did the job.
 

KidFated.

Unknown Member
I have combusted a couple times in my Nonavong and the condenser took the stinkyness for the most part leaving the wood mostly unbothered. What little smell did get to it dissipated on its own in a few days. For the most part a good cleaning of the condenser and tip did the job.
Must experience as well, wood shouldn't really come into contact with vapor or smoke much
 

NicholasPetris

Well-Known Member
@Mr.Sifter , for cleaning the inside of the wooden stem, I'd suggest scrubbing quite vigorously with a damp q-tip, followed by a dry one. You will likely be able to remove a surprising amount of dark residue. Repeat until the q-tips come out untainted. :tup: That should take care of most of the unpleasant aroma, and a healthy number of sessions will get the rest.

I'd also like to offer some encouragement with regard to finding happiness and positivity, but there have already been quite a few kind and thoughtful words directed to you. I will add a few things... We all have a certain divine importance and power; you must reach this understanding through a healthy lifestyle and meditation. Your very existence and sustainable life is a miraculous cause for celebration. You are pure consciousness and energy in a powerful, mobile, adaptive, regenerative body ! If your third eye feels especially difficult to pry open, consider the aid of a deep psilocybin-aided trip/meditation, perhaps (might be a bad idea depending on your circumstances and personal tendencies) ? There is meaning, purpose, and potential all around us. Don't succumb to nihilism and misanthropy! I hope you'll find a bright path forward. Spirituality might save you. I have wasted many years of my life wallowing in darkness and negativity before starting to understand and embrace the light and divine nature of our world. Best of luck!
 

Kermitt

Well-Known Member
Now I finally got my replacement TI Tip, and the new TI Tip has the same bug. Depending on how I put the cap on, the cap sticks to the first fin. Of course it's possible and I get the cap put on without a lot of effort, but I don't think that's the way it should be.
Frustrating!

To the Gen5 Tip owners: Does the cap go on as softly as with the Gen 4 Tip?

I guess it just wasn't processed clean/precise enough, and probably the VapoShop got a whole shipment of it :-(
 
Kermitt,
  • Like
Reactions: ataxian

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Looked it up

Sprinkle BAKING SODA on the body/stem.
Spray WHITE VINEGAR lightly over the baking soda; let it sit for some time.

After, respect the click.

If it works, please be positive. :nod: Discard baking soda. :D
That's what I do?

F^ck'n "M" invent the saying: "MAX FLIGHT"!
If your a MEDICATOR this "M" will send you to ORBIT.

RECREATION = MAXFLIGHT
MEDICAL = MAXFLIGHT


DIFFERENCE?

VAP CAP will F^CK U UP!

BLING is cool if you can afford it?
I like the "M" because it's like a JOINT.

To me the "M" is both RECREATIONAL & MEDICAL
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
Now I finally got my replacement TI Tip, and the new TI Tip has the same bug. Depending on how I put the cap on, the cap sticks to the first fin. Of course it's possible and I get the cap put on without a lot of effort, but I don't think that's the way it should be.
Frustrating!

To the Gen5 Tip owners: Does the cap go on as softly as with the Gen 4 Tip?

I guess it just wasn't processed clean/precise enough, and probably the VapoShop got a whole shipment of it :-(
Have you checked the cap ?
Maybe there's a dent somewhere at the cap ?
 

Alex03

Well-Known Member
I honestly don't have much experience getting the smell of smoke out of wood. Accidental combustion is one of the reasons I use metal liners my stems. Even so, when I have combusted in my metal lined pieces I haven't noticed any smell in the stem. Perhaps since I was using an Omni at the time the tiny bit of air flow prevented the smoke from touching the stem.

Baking soda and vinegar aren't going to be great for your wood, either of them are going to cause some damage over time that you won't notice at first. I think some light scrubbing with an isopropanol soaked swab would be best. Just enough to remove what's on the surface, no soaking.

I'm really not sure what else can be done? If it were my piece I would bore it out to 8.5mm and drop in a 0.25mm wall tube.

@stark1 @Mr.Sifter @Winegums

You can soak your wood in pure acetone, rinse and dry.

No smell no residue and most important NO damage of any kind.

A tried and true technique recommended by the vapman manufacturer Rene himself.

Best is a 48h drying phase after the acetone soak.

Happy vaping
 

Winegums

I make things from wood
Accessory Maker
@stark1 @Mr.Sifter @Winegums

You can soak your wood in pure acetone, rinse and dry.

No smell no residue and most important NO damage of any kind.

A tried and true technique recommended by the vapman manufacturer Rene himself.

Best is a 48h drying phase after the acetone soak.

Happy vaping
This would remove all the waxes or oil finishes that may be on the surface of the wood as well as pull out the natural oils. If left too long some woods that have high oil content may discolour and become lighter. So I wouldn't say there's no damage of any kind.
 

JCharles

FC 06/06/2017 | ACMPR 26/07/2017
That's what I do?

F^ck'n "M" invent the saying: "MAX FLIGHT"!
If your a MEDICATOR this "M" will send you to ORBIT.

RECREATION = MAXFLIGHT
MEDICAL = MAXFLIGHT


DIFFERENCE?

VAP CAP will F^CK U UP!

BLING is cool if you can afford it?
I like the "M" because it's like a JOINT.

To me the "M" is both RECREATIONAL & MEDICAL

Have you been running the M through water?? The fat mouthpiece is perfect! And the clouds!!!
 

Mr.Sifter

Well-Known Member
Ok,
smell is still there but got better.
will try coco oil first,
than maybe acetone.

the T-tipo chamber is on the smallest setting.
approx 0.025g

how many draws to you get out of such a mini load?

The vapor gets so thick when i cover the "air intake hole".
My little bubbler smells a little.
Have been vaping throuhg this bubbler for over a year witch multiple vapes.
never has my bubbler had this smell.
it's a soft combustion bong smell.
I now I combusted a few times. but I cleaned everything.

even after only two cap heatings my bubbler gets this bong smell.
My AVB looks okay. Not even but far from black.
I know how burnings from inside look like.
my AVB looks fine.
the effects are strong for this small load.

like someone said:
"like combustion without the combustion"
 

CuckFumbustion

Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
My little bubbler smells a little.
Yea If you combust or near combust, it lingers. I just get in the habit of cleaning it immediately. Or you could power through it and it will taste a little less each time. If you say think you might combust till you get the knack for instance and don't want to be bothered cleaning each time. yet.

Wood is better to get on early. :2c: Where glass is more forgiving. Thanks for all the info everyone.

Hope this helps.
 

LabPong

Well-Known Member
Mr.Sifter.....yea it totally sux when you combust with the dynavap.....makes me sad for an hour or so. But the smell and stuff goes away after a few more sessions (usually 2-4 for me). Do your best to use 91% ISO if you have some....and q-tip the tip, cap, ccd screen, and other parts off as much as possible. This usually works best for me. But I a glass body and not wood, so that is one other step you have to deal with. I would just use the iso for now and not put other elements on the wood that may have a potential to have a lasting tastes effect.....though that might be ok with coco oil.

Also keep in mind that since you are using the smallest load possible....it will be just a bit quicker to combust as much as a full load. But combusting is combusting....and that may be a thin line between the smallest load and the biggest....but this is why i just set my CCD to the biggest load and also use a SS screen above the CCD as well.

I would say pending on your flower/load type. You should get at least 3-4 good pulls off that small load.

As for the water unit smell....I am not sure why you have a much different experience with the vapcap. But I think it could be true for me as well...I just do not notice the differences because I usually clean out my water unit every other day or so pending on how much it is used.




Yea If you combust or near combust, it lingers. I just get in the habit of cleaning it immediately. Or you could power through it and it will taste a little less each time. If you think you might combust till you get the knack for instance and don't want to be bothered each time. yet.

Wood is better to get on early. :2c: Where glass is more forgiving. Thanks for all the info everyone.

Hope this helps.

I think he meant in general and not just because of the combustion.
 

Mr.Sifter

Well-Known Member
Also keep in mind that since you are using the smallest load possible....it will be just a bit quicker to combust as much as a full load. But combusting is combusting....and that may be a thin line between the smallest load and the biggest....but this is why i just set my CCD to the biggest load and also use a SS screen above the CCD as well.

that could be true.
only tried the smallest chamber setting for now.

I am not a total "newbie".
I read lots here and saw a few heating videos on youtube.

0.025g in my Ti Cap heated aiming at the top.
click, draw.
second cycle aiming for the middle.
click, draw
more vapor, when I block the air intake it becomes thick as smoke almost yellowish in the bubbler.

a third cycle ends in combustion no matter where i am the torch at.
and yes, most of the times i register and respect the cool down click.
still thats my biggest challenge.

Is it normal to thicken the vapor so strong by blocking the air intake.
its like i can cook the chamber by blooking the hole while i am drawing from the bubbler.

its normal for fire to burn hotter when given more oxygen pulled through it but i never had this effect with vapor.
 

CuckFumbustion

Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
I think he meant in general and not just because of the combustion.
Well then that depends on the smell. And how close things are roasted.

If it is hydrosol smelly. Well yea thats part of the extraction. All good.

Carbon smelly is not desirable. Figure what needs to be corrected with your vape. Then dial accordingly.:2c:
:peace:

a third cycle ends in combustion no matter where i am the torch at.
So what torch are you using? BTW?
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Mr.Sifter

Well-Known Member
So what torch are you using? BTW?

a cheap plaastic thing from the headshop.
bought it one evening to check the vapcap out before i invest to much.
this thing is bad, i mean like reeeal bad.
sometimes it takes 20 clicks to ignite.

tomorrow i will by something like this here.
crack house style.

25037464_134035837292916_1677814517322481664_n.jpg
 

CuckFumbustion

Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
sometimes it takes 20 clicks to ignite.
I have a hunch that your lighter might be part of the prob. :hmm: Or maybe you just need to alter your technique to suit the lighter more. How long does it take to heat to a click? Or It could be a little to powerful for a single torch.

Getting a solid lighter will improve the learning curve. A twin torch might heat things without being too much variable with being too intense an issue. I have different heat profiles with all my torches. They all have a function.
The twin torches being the best compromise without going to the danger zone and saving fuel. :2c: hope this helps.
 

shredder

Well-Known Member
that could be true.
only tried the smallest chamber setting for now.

I am not a total "newbie".
I read lots here and saw a few heating videos on youtube.

0.025g in my Ti Cap heated aiming at the top.
click, draw.
second cycle aiming for the middle.
click, draw
more vapor, when I block the air intake it becomes thick as smoke almost yellowish in the bubbler.

a third cycle ends in combustion no matter where i am the torch at.
and yes, most of the times i register and respect the cool down click.
still thats my biggest challenge.

Is it normal to thicken the vapor so strong by blocking the air intake.
its like i can cook the chamber by blooking the hole while i am drawing from the bubbler.

its normal for fire to burn hotter when given more oxygen pulled through it but i never had this effect with vapor.

If your combusting frequently change how you do things. Not to be mean, but come on now, lol.

I'd forget the small bowl size, cause you can use less herb in a full bowl. Just don't fill it much. A smaller bowl will be more heat sensitive.

If it always combusts on the third heat up, just heat twice.

The air intake is the carborator. It restricts air to get richer hits. Less air makes it hotter. You can use your finger to feather or adjust air flow to what suits you. I pull hard with a mouth pull, with finger on carb, then open the carb. I'm sure you'll find your own technique.
 

LabPong

Well-Known Member
If your 3d hit/draw always ends in combustion...then the load was probably done and fully extracted.....or it is your torch/torching. I can't tell what the flame being applied to your cap is like....but getting a decent single or double torch is best in my opinion....especially if you are indoors.

Also, heating again at or close to the cool down click with a smaller load......might be a good reason to wait 5-10 seconds after the click and go from there.

I do not use a torch anymore with my vapcaps....but I always had inconsistent results/performance until I got a month or so into using it. It took trying with several diff. jet amounts per lighter to show me the way better. I think this may be what you are experiencing now. I would love for you to try a induction heater to understand this instantly....it works perfect every time and so easy to get the same result draw to draw.

Yes, when you cut off air intake with the carb hole.....you change the vapor density for sure.
 
Top Bottom