Must experience as well, wood shouldn't really come into contact with vapor or smoke muchI have combusted a couple times in my Nonavong and the condenser took the stinkyness for the most part leaving the wood mostly unbothered. What little smell did get to it dissipated on its own in a few days. For the most part a good cleaning of the condenser and tip did the job.
I haven't tried this.
If I'm not mistaking you can find the file for this online, actually think I have it, and print it yourself.
I've heard most libraries have a 3D printer. I don't know for certain.
That's what I do?Looked it up
Sprinkle BAKING SODA on the body/stem.
Spray WHITE VINEGAR lightly over the baking soda; let it sit for some time.
After, respect the click.
If it works, please be positive. Discard baking soda.
Have you checked the cap ?Now I finally got my replacement TI Tip, and the new TI Tip has the same bug. Depending on how I put the cap on, the cap sticks to the first fin. Of course it's possible and I get the cap put on without a lot of effort, but I don't think that's the way it should be.
To the Gen5 Tip owners: Does the cap go on as softly as with the Gen 4 Tip?
I guess it just wasn't processed clean/precise enough, and probably the VapoShop got a whole shipment of it :-(
I honestly don't have much experience getting the smell of smoke out of wood. Accidental combustion is one of the reasons I use metal liners my stems. Even so, when I have combusted in my metal lined pieces I haven't noticed any smell in the stem. Perhaps since I was using an Omni at the time the tiny bit of air flow prevented the smoke from touching the stem.
Baking soda and vinegar aren't going to be great for your wood, either of them are going to cause some damage over time that you won't notice at first. I think some light scrubbing with an isopropanol soaked swab would be best. Just enough to remove what's on the surface, no soaking.
I'm really not sure what else can be done? If it were my piece I would bore it out to 8.5mm and drop in a 0.25mm wall tube.
This would remove all the waxes or oil finishes that may be on the surface of the wood as well as pull out the natural oils. If left too long some woods that have high oil content may discolour and become lighter. So I wouldn't say there's no damage of any kind.@stark1 @Mr.Sifter @Winegums
You can soak your wood in pure acetone, rinse and dry.
No smell no residue and most important NO damage of any kind.
A tried and true technique recommended by the vapman manufacturer Rene himself.
Best is a 48h drying phase after the acetone soak.
That's what I do?
F^ck'n "M" invent the saying: "MAX FLIGHT"!
If your a MEDICATOR this "M" will send you to ORBIT.
RECREATION = MAXFLIGHT
MEDICAL = MAXFLIGHT
VAP CAP will F^CK U UP!
BLING is cool if you can afford it?
I like the "M" because it's like a JOINT.
To me the "M" is both RECREATIONAL & MEDICAL
Yea If you combust or near combust, it lingers. I just get in the habit of cleaning it immediately. Or you could power through it and it will taste a little less each time. If you say think you might combust till you get the knack for instance and don't want to be bothered cleaning each time. yet.My little bubbler smells a little.
Yea If you combust or near combust, it lingers. I just get in the habit of cleaning it immediately. Or you could power through it and it will taste a little less each time. If you think you might combust till you get the knack for instance and don't want to be bothered each time. yet.
Wood is better to get on early. Where glass is more forgiving. Thanks for all the info everyone.
Hope this helps.
@ataxian, I’m not sure I follow your question.@IntoTheVoid what condition do you have?
I better hurry up and coin the phrase lol.like someone said:
"like combustion without the combustion"
Also keep in mind that since you are using the smallest load possible....it will be just a bit quicker to combust as much as a full load. But combusting is combusting....and that may be a thin line between the smallest load and the biggest....but this is why i just set my CCD to the biggest load and also use a SS screen above the CCD as well.
Well then that depends on the smell. And how close things are roasted.I think he meant in general and not just because of the combustion.
So what torch are you using? BTW?a third cycle ends in combustion no matter where i am the torch at.
So what torch are you using? BTW?
I have a hunch that your lighter might be part of the prob. Or maybe you just need to alter your technique to suit the lighter more. How long does it take to heat to a click? Or It could be a little to powerful for a single torch.sometimes it takes 20 clicks to ignite.
I smoked JOINT's when I was RECREATIONAL.@ataxian, I’m not sure I follow your question.
I better hurry up and coin the phrase lol.
that could be true.
only tried the smallest chamber setting for now.
I am not a total "newbie".
I read lots here and saw a few heating videos on youtube.
0.025g in my Ti Cap heated aiming at the top.
second cycle aiming for the middle.
more vapor, when I block the air intake it becomes thick as smoke almost yellowish in the bubbler.
a third cycle ends in combustion no matter where i am the torch at.
and yes, most of the times i register and respect the cool down click.
still thats my biggest challenge.
Is it normal to thicken the vapor so strong by blocking the air intake.
its like i can cook the chamber by blooking the hole while i am drawing from the bubbler.
its normal for fire to burn hotter when given more oxygen pulled through it but i never had this effect with vapor.