VisiblyVaped
Well-Known Member
No ,exactly the opposite .
Work the wheel like this :
You only do these with the Ti newer bodies??
Dynavap VapCap
- Thread starter Fenton Mewley
- Start date
You only do these with the Ti newer bodies??
I'm not quite sure what do you mean by " Ti newer bodies ".
I use this as first material :
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/272445398315?var=571447526609
(the 8mm ID ,10 mm OD option )
Cut it into 61-62 mm length pieces ( 100 cm makes for 16 stems = cost is ~ $0.7 per stem ).
And then continue with the rest of the work.
kushkush
happy camper....
Tracking says I'll get mine next Tuesday so give me a day or two and I'll surely report here how things go. I'm really looking forward to it since so many here say it's a terrific device. You shouldn't be too much behind me in receiving yours. If you paid via Paypal you can go there to your transaction to get the tracking number/link.
I have a question for everyone. The other day I over-did it because the vapor was sparse (went thru 3 full cycles). And I regretted it for a full 7 minutes. That part didn't hit me for 20 minutes and then for that full 7 minutes I wished I was dead. That's only a mild exaggeration.
Lesson learned. (Anyone else ever experienced this?) Next time I'll go slow and wait longer for results after the 2nd cycle (which is normally my first vapor cycle). I'm using a small bubbler so I can see the vapor.Anyway my question is this... does anybody ever just 'save' the 3rd cycle for later because 2 cycles does the trick well for micro-dosing?
(I do realize there are some variables involved but would like to hear some of your experiences.)
VisiblyVaped
Well-Known Member
So you'l
So you'll essentially make a stem for 30 bucks??
How do I get on your list?
So you'll essentially make a stem for 30 bucks??
How do I get on your list?
mmenzie
My friends call me "Menz"
i can feel your pain... for me it is the same way. i just got my jarhead yesterday but i haven't stopped playing with it. i find that if i "respect the click, i get all flavor and some light clouds on the 3rd or 4th dip. if i go one one thousand and then two one thousand, i get better clouds. if i do that up to 4 one thousand then i will get big clouds and the end starting to roast too much. i feel for me 2 one thousand past the click is good but can't dip it more than 2 times
Anyway my question is this... does anybody ever just 'save' the 3rd cycle for later because 2 cycles does the trick well for micro-dosing?
I do that ,yes.
But not because I'm high enough ,but because I get distracted by an idea that just came
or something similar ...
Hm...
Errr..I guess by then I'm already high enough ...
pm me on coming Monday (I'll be away for some days ,till Monday)
We will work something out,I'm sure !
(sorry for consecutive posting.A mod may merge the two posts,please.
Once more I'm sorry .
)
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cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
Yes.Anyway my question is this... does anybody ever just 'save' the 3rd cycle for later because 2 cycles does the trick well for micro-dosing?
That is the big advantage to non-session vapes (Like VC, Mi and many others) that you can just put them down when YOU are done, rather than having to finish a load. Sometimes I just want one good hit, for example. With the VCs I tend to hit it a few times to cool it off before putting it down to avoid losing anything to conduction heat.
Squiby
Well-Known Member
Thanks again! I'll follow your instructions. I do have a question though...why does the inside of the titanium tube need to be polished? Does it come a bit tight for the titanium Vapcap tip? Or is there another reason?
Anyway my question is this... does anybody ever just 'save' the 3rd cycle for later because 2 cycles does the trick well for micro-dosing?
I don't. I only load what I intend to finish. I microdose so I only load about 0.015 gms per load. A tiny bit perfect for my purposes. This amounts to a tiny unground nug that I pull from a flower bud. I pop it in the chamber and there is plenty of room for it to bounce around.
If I am vaping larger amounts to stave off pain or nausea or just want to knock myself out, I fill the chamber and still finish it off over three cycles in one session.
I always dump my ABV into a Vapman egg immediately after the session as soon as the cap is cool enough for my fingers to pull it off. Twice I have placed the spent Vapcap, still containing the ABV on the magnet and left it there overnight. Both times the cap stuck to the tip and I had to heat it and then use a pair of pliers to twist it off. This has never happened ever with an empty tip. Just sayin'.
My one caveat is that when I load concentrates onto a concentrate pad placed in the chamber, I load enough for many sessions. That's an all day Vapcap sipper.
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vapenerd
Well-Known Member
The problem with that is that it's hard to get vapor from the first heating cycle. I know, technically it's the third heating cycle, but if you pause it's the same as the first one. My experience is that when you save the last heating cycle you get neither flavor nor vapor. That's why I never save my last hit when using my M.Anyway my question is this... does anybody ever just 'save' the 3rd cycle for later because 2 cycles does the trick well for micro-dosing?
Dear Squiby ,I can think couple of reasons .
To begin with ,a polished inner will be "kind" to the Viton o- and x- rings.
Tiny burrs,scratches,pits or any othet surface blemishes will cause tiny cuts and cracks to the
O/X rings (when tip & condenser are taken out for cleaning and re-inserted ) and eventually will have a negative impact on their service life.
Secondly ,a polished inner surface ensures easy cleaning.
Also it makes inserting the condenser into the stem a lot easier .
Some may call it perfectionism.
But ain't really.
Cheers.
EDIT @vapenerd
You should try this ,with the M :
1st cycle : Roll fast and heat really low towards the scoop (for higher temperature ).
Allow 1-2 secs at maximum after the cool-down click is heard before proceeding to the :
2nd cycle : roll a bit slower and heat at the middle of the cap.
Allow 3-4 secs at minimum this time (or maybe save for afterwards ...) after the cool-down click before proceeding to the :
3rd cycle :Roll even slower and heat towards the cap's tip(for lower temperature).
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nickdanger
Collector of Functional Art
I normally save the 2nd AND 3rd cycle for later, as I get plenty medicated on one hit. I've greened out a couple of times doing 2 cycles when I should have put it down after one. Although I'm a daily user, most days more than once a day, my tolerance is almost non-existent. These things are so efficient, I can usually make a gram last me 3 weeks to a month, interspersed with a little concentrate along the way.I have a question for everyone. The other day I over-did it because the vapor was sparse (went thru 3 full cycles). And I regretted it for a full 7 minutes. That part didn't hit me for 20 minutes and then for that full 7 minutes I wished I was dead. That's only a mild exaggeration.
Anyway my question is this... does anybody ever just 'save' the 3rd cycle for later because 2 cycles does the trick well for micro-dosing?
So,to summarize for those seeking to make your own Ti "hammered" stem .
Actually it is quite easy.
First you will need protective goggles and maybe a simple filter mask,
as there are plenty of fine airborne stone and titanium dust particles involved.
Basic Work
- Use a common drill (set at low speed ) as a lathe for working the stem.
With a set of files and some fine grit sandpapers you can create really neat stems ,
with highly polished ( or even mirror-polished with wet sandpaper) or "sandblasted " or "brushed" surfaces.
-use paper or electrical tape to cover a polished /finished side when you switch over the stem
on the drill to work on the other side.That will protect the surface from "bite "marks from the drill's choke.
-Have aside a bowl with cold water to cool periodically the stem ,while you work with it.
Also it keeps it clean and easier for you to see what's you 're actually doing.
Edge work
-Use a sharpie's blade tip (carefully ) and "slit" any burrs from the inside of the tube ,
at it's ends (burrs left from cutting the 61-62 mm stem),while the stem is being turned .
For that you better opt for high speed at the drill.Touch the sharpie tip lightly and with an angle.Blade's edge is kept against the rotating trend.
-use the backside of a painting brush stem
wrapped with sandpaper to polish the inner tube of the stem.
Start with dry 600 grit and finish with wet 2000-2500 grit.
Do not overdo it -especially with the dry 600 grit -,as you may widen the 8 mm ID too much
and then the tip /condenser might fit too loosely and keep falling off.
Mouthpiece
-You can create a mouthpiece "notch" like the M has ( with a half -round profile file )
or you can go minimalistic and leave the tube as is.
Round and smoothen one of the stem's ends .That will be the mouthpiece end.
Use the #421 /#414 combo to polish (look further down for links).
Hammered effect
-Firstly better work a bit a new #425 emery wheel on a scrap piece of metal
in order to smoothen it's edges,
as they may create deep and narrow "cuts" on the stem .
-Work the #425 Dremel wheel parallel to the stems length
(Dremel is kept perpendicular to the stem's length) .
-Touch the stem lightly with the wheel and "jerk" it a bit to widen the concave created.
Make the next "hammer hit" close by ,try not to leave big spaces amongst the "hammer-hits".
You can work over again those that seem shallow ,too small or you just don't like.
-After finishing the hammering effect then use these :
https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/tools/421-polishing-compound
https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/tools/414-felt-polishing-1-2-wheels
And then buffer lightly the whole "hammered" surface .That will smooth out any discrepancies and
add further to the whole "hammered" effect.
Anodising :
Use a pyrex/glass or plastic bowl filled with 50% de-ionized water and 50% white vinegar.
DO NOT USE ANY METAL CONTAINER.
DO NOT USE TAP WATER.
It contains Chlorium and possibly other ions (sulfuric,nitric,etc),
that will /may cause pitting on the Titanium stem.
Myself already gained some pits to my only 4th gen tip from carelessly using tap water.
Get some Ti wire from a vape-shop (those used for RDAs ).
Degrease the stem with isopropyl alcohol or acetone.
Use that ti wire through the stem and place the stem inside the bowl.
Connect the positive end (anode) of a power supply unit to the Ti wire.
Use aluminium foil ( surface larger than the surface of the Ti stem being anodized)
and connect it with the cathode ( - ) of the PSU.
Take care for the alum foil and stem not to touch each other.
Welding is not our purpose here.
Make sure that inside the water -vinegar solution ( electrolyte) are deeped only aluminium (at the cathode) and titanium
(at the anode).
Not any other metal should come in contact with the electrolyte.
For PSU you can connect in series different small 5V or 12 V old phone chargers,laptop PSUs,etc.
For example :
A 12 Volt psu will tint the stem "bronze"
A 12 V psu connected in series with a 5V psu ,will tint the stem "purple"
Two 12 V psu in series ,will tint the stem "blue"
Two 12 V psu and one 5 V psu in series ,will tint the stem "cyan-aqua"
And so on.On the chart below is the tint achieved at a given voltage.
Be extra cautious if you will work with voltages over 30 V .
Allow for some time for the tint to form ,if the amperage of the psu(s) is lower than 1 A .
-Afterwards wash in baking soda and water .
Cheers.
Actually it is quite easy.
First you will need protective goggles and maybe a simple filter mask,
as there are plenty of fine airborne stone and titanium dust particles involved.
Basic Work
- Use a common drill (set at low speed ) as a lathe for working the stem.
With a set of files and some fine grit sandpapers you can create really neat stems ,
with highly polished ( or even mirror-polished with wet sandpaper) or "sandblasted " or "brushed" surfaces.
-use paper or electrical tape to cover a polished /finished side when you switch over the stem
on the drill to work on the other side.That will protect the surface from "bite "marks from the drill's choke.
-Have aside a bowl with cold water to cool periodically the stem ,while you work with it.
Also it keeps it clean and easier for you to see what's you 're actually doing.
Edge work
-Use a sharpie's blade tip (carefully ) and "slit" any burrs from the inside of the tube ,
at it's ends (burrs left from cutting the 61-62 mm stem),while the stem is being turned .
For that you better opt for high speed at the drill.Touch the sharpie tip lightly and with an angle.Blade's edge is kept against the rotating trend.
-use the backside of a painting brush stem
wrapped with sandpaper to polish the inner tube of the stem.
Start with dry 600 grit and finish with wet 2000-2500 grit.
Do not overdo it -especially with the dry 600 grit -,as you may widen the 8 mm ID too much
and then the tip /condenser might fit too loosely and keep falling off.
Mouthpiece
-You can create a mouthpiece "notch" like the M has ( with a half -round profile file )
or you can go minimalistic and leave the tube as is.
Round and smoothen one of the stem's ends .That will be the mouthpiece end.
Use the #421 /#414 combo to polish (look further down for links).
Hammered effect
-Firstly better work a bit a new #425 emery wheel on a scrap piece of metal
in order to smoothen it's edges,
as they may create deep and narrow "cuts" on the stem .
-Work the #425 Dremel wheel parallel to the stems length
(Dremel is kept perpendicular to the stem's length) .
-Touch the stem lightly with the wheel and "jerk" it a bit to widen the concave created.
Make the next "hammer hit" close by ,try not to leave big spaces amongst the "hammer-hits".
You can work over again those that seem shallow ,too small or you just don't like.
-After finishing the hammering effect then use these :
https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/tools/421-polishing-compound
https://www.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/tools/414-felt-polishing-1-2-wheels
And then buffer lightly the whole "hammered" surface .That will smooth out any discrepancies and
add further to the whole "hammered" effect.
Anodising :
Use a pyrex/glass or plastic bowl filled with 50% de-ionized water and 50% white vinegar.
DO NOT USE ANY METAL CONTAINER.
DO NOT USE TAP WATER.
It contains Chlorium and possibly other ions (sulfuric,nitric,etc),
that will /may cause pitting on the Titanium stem.
Myself already gained some pits to my only 4th gen tip from carelessly using tap water.
Get some Ti wire from a vape-shop (those used for RDAs ).
Degrease the stem with isopropyl alcohol or acetone.
Use that ti wire through the stem and place the stem inside the bowl.
Connect the positive end (anode) of a power supply unit to the Ti wire.
Use aluminium foil ( surface larger than the surface of the Ti stem being anodized)
and connect it with the cathode ( - ) of the PSU.
Take care for the alum foil and stem not to touch each other.
Welding is not our purpose here.
Make sure that inside the water -vinegar solution ( electrolyte) are deeped only aluminium (at the cathode) and titanium
(at the anode).
Not any other metal should come in contact with the electrolyte.
For PSU you can connect in series different small 5V or 12 V old phone chargers,laptop PSUs,etc.
For example :
A 12 Volt psu will tint the stem "bronze"
A 12 V psu connected in series with a 5V psu ,will tint the stem "purple"
Two 12 V psu in series ,will tint the stem "blue"
Two 12 V psu and one 5 V psu in series ,will tint the stem "cyan-aqua"
And so on.On the chart below is the tint achieved at a given voltage.
Be extra cautious if you will work with voltages over 30 V .
Allow for some time for the tint to form ,if the amperage of the psu(s) is lower than 1 A .
-Afterwards wash in baking soda and water .
Cheers.
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pxl_jockey
Just a dude
@stardustsailor I'm sorry, but I'm confused; the link provided is for 100mm length @ US$10.39 so I could get only one stem at that length? Am I looking at the wrong place maybe?
Could you please tell us the name or type of files or set you used? Or maybe link to a source for us in Europe please? Thank you so much for posting all of this, very inspiring!
OOPS ! I was wrong.Missed one zero.Thought for that price would be 1000mm but no.
It's because it comes polished .That's why the high retail price .
Look here:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/1pcs-Titaniu...814866?hash=item2a40faf492:g:BBgAAOxyJX1S~ytQ
(This e-bay vendor sells really high quality Ti Grd 2 tubes )
500mm for $ 14.1
Makes 8 stems.
Needs 7 cuts .each cut takes out ~1mm of material **.
500-7 = 493 .
6*61 mm = 488.
There are 5 mm left. Two of the eight can be of 62 mm length (Dynavap standard stem)
$14.1 /8 = ~ $ 1.8 per stem.Still way cheap ,to begin with .
So 6x 61 mm "shorts" plus 2x 62 mm standards .
I use a large flat profile BACHO file and a cheap set of small files .
Those are some great files to choose from :
http://www.bahco.com/en/s/sharpening-files/3c-eb-5c-9b-d5-5d-a5-be-ce-a3-0d-79-28-d4-9f-55/
**Note :The 61 mm stem "forces" the condenser deeper 1mm inside the tip.
Also the stem(s) are CARBLESS .
So ,they can be used only for mouthpulls,like the case of -primitive- joints.
Carbless + condenser further inside tip 1mm = High resistance and incoming air only from cap/tip .
Yes ,this particular stem design makes the VC to act more like a joint but in a CIVILIZED manner,
as a brother around here would 've said.
Or you can simply say that maybe some just hate searching for the hole .
Specially at dark.
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cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
If you give up the chance for flavor you can get good hits on that (first) cycle by going 3 or 4 seconds past the click. Normally I reserve the first cycle for flavor so don't try to get visible vapor. I never get flavor after the first cycle so I am not concerned about going hot enough for vapor. If the first cycle is really the third cycle as you describe above, the flavor is gone anyway so going past the click is fine, and 3 or 4 seconds after the click should yield vapor, but likely the last vapor your gonna get.
Again, there is some variability in drag strength, in temps reached, in moisture content and in other properties of your strain that can all influence your results, so it is always YMMV.
And BTW, almost ANY time I go more than 4 seconds past the click I am flirting with combustion, so it is very rare that I will risk it. I mean we are only talking average .06g or so so I would rather waste a tiny bit (toss it) than have to clean the VC.
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LabPong
Well-Known Member
Squiby
Well-Known Member
Now that I'm armed with all the trade secrets, I'm going to see how easy it is to go get hammered!
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Summer
Long Island, NY
@Winegums, what are the measurements? Thanks!
Hey Smokey, why don't you play with it a little before you decide what your next vc, or should I say vcas, purchase is gonna be.
Hey mmenzie, yesterday afternoon you were perplexed about the JH & 24-hours later, you're almost a pro. It's super easy to get acclimated to. 
Hey Smokey, why don't you play with it a little before you decide what your next vc, or should I say vcas, purchase is gonna be.
Hey mmenzie, yesterday afternoon you were perplexed about the JH & 24-hours later, you're almost a pro.
It's super easy to get acclimated to. 
VisiblyVaped
Well-Known Member
65mm wide x 110mm long x 20mm thick. A bit taller than a deck of cards.
I want that.....
Zecrono
Ravioli Ravioli Give Me The Formuoli
Silver420Surfer
Downward spiral
Well, both my M and Ti woody XL-S tips are not staying into their bodies. Only 2 months of use and now they seem to fall out more than stay in. Sent an email to DynaVap, hopefully they will have a solution. I am by no means rough or careless with any of my vapes/glass/etc so this is kind of surprising to me. I probably clean them like every two days, always "lubed" the orings and keep the wood body with a pristine shine.
Maybe they just got a bad batch of o-rings??
Maybe they just got a bad batch of o-rings??
Hello guys,
First time posting! I recently ordered my M model and couldn't be any more excited.
I have a quick question:
The M tip bowl size can't be adjusted like the ti tip. Is it really a useful feature? If i pack 75-50% in the M bowl, does it affect performance? Or the adjust-a-bowl makes it more efficient?
ps. I rather not use hemp fibers
First time posting! I recently ordered my M model and couldn't be any more excited.
I have a quick question:
The M tip bowl size can't be adjusted like the ti tip. Is it really a useful feature? If i pack 75-50% in the M bowl, does it affect performance? Or the adjust-a-bowl makes it more efficient?
ps. I rather not use hemp fibers
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Doktor Dub
Well-Known Member
@stardustsailor Thanks for all your Infos / Tutorials and bringing such a good vibe to this thread!
Have a great day!
Have a great day!
fågel
᚛ᚓᚐᚅ᚜
since i've hash & little else im working with the M a bit more.. oh my gosh its so much cleaner with the M vs in my UD stems. major factor haha. my can of butane i bought a year or so ago is finally out so i've just tried it with a candle and though it does take longer i feel like it's given me a more consistent result than my torches have. more trial needed of course but! i'm pleased the candle method works just as well with the M as i remember it with the og.