Dynavap VapCap

[sixstringsmash]

Hey guys so I seemed to have fixed my little issue here. I was able to fix it by some miracle. What I did was I heated the cap like 10 seconds past the heating time, and while it was still HOT I threw it in a vise grip and went at it with some pliers. Thankfully one real good tug at it while it was in there managed to get it out. The cap has a little dent in it from the force I needed to use to get it unstuck but it seems to still work perfectly fine. Thank god!

Once again thanks for all the helpful tips and suggestions.

 

[SloJimFizz]

This is exactly what I'm experiencing with my new omnivap. It's usually so hard to suck I've tried slowing my draw down which helps and I thought it would have those o-rings like the tiglassy I have but it doesn't. I've unscrewed the mouthpiece to allow airflow in to the point it comes falling out lol and I'm getting good hits at certain times but then it's like no vapour and my abv is still very light in color. Idk if it's the weed I have cause it's very airy and light but I just want more smooth easy hits.

Hmm, so on your Omni, when you say you unscrew the mouthpiece so much, what part is falling out? The condenser part that screws into the mouthpiece part? Those two are barely together, maybe by one thread turn, in other words? "Wide open" with maximum airflow is those two screwed together fully and not letting the condenser go up into the Ti tip. Doing it the other way, barely together at fullest length pushes the condenser into the tip,restricting airflow. Good for bong and bubbler time, not so much for free draw.
Trying to help you get that thing going.

 

[OldCombustor]

I just want more smooth easy hits.

Yup. Same here.
I keep feeling like I am doing something wrong...

I use my M during the evening; getting three or four bowls. Exclusive use since I got the M a month ago. (My pipes are jealous.)
Each bowl gets two or three heats. I've experimented with holding, spinning, lighter sizes, heat duration, load sizes, all kinds of stuff.
I've got heat timing down to a point that sometimes I take the lighter away from the cap and then I hear the click.

One thing I found is what seems to be greater control of heating with a single flame torch. I don't quite understand those that write about heating the crap out of the tip to get big clouds. I heat until the click and I get vapor that chokes me and I end up coughing.

Another thing I found is similar to a discussion back in this thread about pre-heating. If I heat the cap nearer to the discs, I get a very light vapor with oodles of flavor. A second heat near the middle of the cap and I get vapor galore. The AVB that remains is chocolate brown.

I simply must keep trying.

All this experimentation is getting me wrecked.

 

[stardustsailor]

By now ,I'm almost sure that the new generation 5 fin Ti tips are "faster " (or "quicker" it is ? )
than the previous generation 7 fin tips.
If I remember correctly ,George did mentioned an almost 20% reduction of mass at the new Ti tips .

"Specific Heat:
The specific heat is the amount of heat per unit mass required to raise the temperature by one degree Celsius.

https://chem.libretexts.org/Core/Ph...stry/Thermodynamics/Calorimetry/Heat_Capacity

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/thermo/spht.html

If the new tips have 20% less mass than the previous tips ,
then they should require 20% less energy to increase their temperature till the click.

Yes,I remember George mentioning that the material removed was not from the chamber .
Yes ,Ti grade is not exactly famous for it's thermal conduction properties.
So while heating the chamber area ,it will take some time for the heat to spread inside
the material of the tip and towards the fins .
Still the bimetallic discs are not on the tip ,but on the cap and not on the direct flame path.
What I mean is that the reduction of mass WILL affect in at least one direct way
the energy needed till the click is heard .
(Both the heat and cool down clicks actually )
Keep in mind that Energy = Power x Time
Meaning :
For the same power (flame) the new tip will take less time till the click .
Or
For the same heating time -till click- ,the new tip requires less power.

Well and one more thing ...

The new tips are better for anodising ,as the tint "shows",
more among the wide gaps of 5 fins,rather than the more "dense" 7 fin tips.
Yeap,have to admit that.


(* BTW ,the anodised tint of Titanium seems to has self-healing properties .)

I'm ..hm..i'm ..ahh.uh..kinda ..starting to ...guh ..
ehm..hm..like them ...
maybe ..
a bit ..
or...
a lot ..maybe ..


Cheers.

 

[little maggie]

About new tips: how many generations of new tips are there?

 

[almost there]

By now ,I'm almost sure that the new generation 5 fin Ti tips are "faster " (or "quicker" it is ? )
than the previous generation 7 fin tips.
If I remember correctly ,George did mentioned an almost 20% reduction of mass at the new Ti tips .

"Specific Heat:
The specific heat is the amount of heat per unit mass required to raise the temperature by one degree Celsius.

https://chem.libretexts.org/Core/Ph...stry/Thermodynamics/Calorimetry/Heat_Capacity

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/thermo/spht.html

If the new tips have 20% less mass than the previous tips ,
then they should require 20% less energy to increase their temperature till the click.

Yes,I remember George mentioning that the material removed was not from the chamber .
Yes ,Ti grade is not exactly famous for it's thermal conduction properties.
So while heating the chamber area ,it will take some time for the heat to spread inside
the material of the tip and towards the fins .
Still the bimetallic discs are not on the tip ,but on the cap and not on the direct flame path.
What I mean is that the reduction of mass WILL affect in at least one direct way
the energy needed till the click is heard .
(Both the heat and cool down clicks actually )
Keep in mind that Energy = Power x Time
Meaning :
For the same power (flame) the new tip will take less time till the click .
Or
For the same heating time -till click- ,the new tip requires less power.

Well and one more thing ...

The new tips are better for anodising ,as the tint "shows",
more among the wide gaps of 5 fins,rather than the more "dense" 7 fin tips.
Yeap,have to admit that.


I'm ..hm..i'm ..ahh.uh..kinda ..starting to ...guh ..
ehm..hm..like them ...
maybe ..
a bit ..
or...
a lot ..maybe ..


Cheers.

Thanks for the report......now .....i'm .........curious. Haha, u and I were the 2 most keen on the 7 I believe. How's about a rainbow anodized tip, one color for every fin? Too tacky?

 

[cybrguy]

Still the bimetallic discs are not on the tip ,but on the cap and not on the direct flame path.
What I mean is that the reduction of mass WILL affect in at least one direct way
the energy needed till the click is heard .

So, I am not getting this. Why would changing the mass of the tip change the heat up time of the cap? I can see how it might change heat up and cool down of the tip and therefore possibly change the quality or density of your hits, but nothing has changed in the cap. While it may influence conduction in a very small way, do you think it would be noticeable in the click? Needless to say I don't have a gen5 tip to sample.

How's about a rainbow anodized tip, one color for every fin?

If that's doable I want one...

 

[Stu]

Why would changing the mass of the tip change the heat up time of the cap?

Because as the cap is being heated, it is transferring that heat to the tip that it's in contact with... via conduction. So the tip and cap have to share that heat between them. The less mass to heat, the faster the rest of the mass (cap + tip) can heat up together. With the larger mass of the 7-fin tip, it requires more time or more applied energy. Assuming that we keep the energy applied constant (same lighter, same flame length for example) then more time is going to be necessary to heat the larger mass of the 7-fin tip than the 5-fin tip.

 

[Gigsabits53]

I had to jump on this train. Just ordered a VapCap M. Also added a dynastash, triple torch lighter, and extra screens. The whole thing was only $112 shipped. I am excited to try this one out.

 

[droog77]

Hi folks. Brand new M owner here. It's my first Vapcap, and I just got it yesterday.

While I was waiting for it to be delivered, I tried to do some research on effective use of the carb, as I had already ready about the trade-off between airflow and the thickness of the vapour.

Perhaps my research skills aren't good enough, but the only comments I can find on the matter always refer to having it closed (covered) or open (uncovered) or some kind of mod to fix the device somewhere in between.

The term "feathering" is used, but I haven't seen an actual description of how that is done (I presume it's just lifting your finger off and lowering it back on the hole, but I'm new to this and could be wrong.)

When I tried my M for the first time, I stumbled on a nice carb technique after the third or fourth heat cycle, and have been using it ever since.

When the cap is up to temp, I hold the unit with thumb and finger, with my fingertip over the hole and thumb on the opposite side. This is the starting position. Then all I have to do is just roll it between thumb and finger. Rolling it just a few degrees counter-clockwise (when holding it in my right hand) is enough to go from completely closed to completely open. By rolling it back and forth, I can adjust the airflow anywhere in between open and closed.

This technique allows continuously variable adjustment to the airflow. I can get very cloudy hits on the second heat cycle (without resorting to mouth pulls on a completely closed carb), and then gradually move towards the completely open position as I finish the draw. The ease of this technique and the fine level of control it provides makes me less likely to pay the premium for an Omnivap. I'll probably get a titanium tip though (the modular nature of these is great).

Anyway, sorry if this is all common knowledge. I'm new to this thread and my search results didn't turn up any detailed discussion of this technique.

I hope this is useful information for some.

 

[BT Bean]

I've unscrewed the mouthpiece to allow airflow in to the point it comes falling out

I wonder if you’re making the same mistake I made when I got my Omni. I was turning the mouthpiece and letting it pull out as I turned. But after some reading I realized I was doing it wrong and the mouthpiece needs to stay flush with the body as you turn, or it needs to be pushed back in if it starts to come out.

Coming from using a Vapman, when I first got my Omni a short while back I was actually fine using it completely open, and was sort of kicking myself for getting the Omni. Then I adjusted the airflow to be about 15-20 percent closed and blamo, vape nirvana.

I use a single torch, mostly a little Eagle I bought for about a dollar on e-Bay. I heat at an angle near the tip for a lovely low temp hit. Delicious. Then another. Lovely. After the two terpene hits I move way down by the digger, and heat as low as possible. I leave a little space between the flame and the cap so it takes a long time to heat. I respect the click here as I have for the other two, but now I get a very satisfying warm flow of vapor that is still rather tasty. For the fourth hit I light it the same way as the third, low and slow, but I go past the click, maybe an entire rotation. This hit can choke me, and leave me staring into the abyss. I then can usually get one more wispy hit (maybe two).

This device is absolutely miraculous. I love it. And the amazing customer service (Arielle) adds to the experience. This is what fucking combustion is all about.

And George is a fucking genius.

 

[Derrrpp]

Enjoying my VapCap by the fire. The northern lights are dancing in the sky. It's a good night.

Happy Memorial day weekend everyone!

 

[horizon88]

Hmm, so on your Omni, when you say you unscrew the mouthpiece so much, what part is falling out? The condenser part that screws into the mouthpiece part? Those two are barely together, maybe by one thread turn, in other words? "Wide open" with maximum airflow is those two screwed together fully and not letting the condenser go up into the Ti tip. Doing it the other way, barely together at fullest length pushes the condenser into the tip,restricting airflow. Good for bong and bubbler time, not so much for free draw.
Trying to help you get that thing going.

Yes I was twisting the mouth piece off the condenser like sepersting them. I'm finding it's definitely the lighter you use and how you apply heat. I wasn't putting my finger on the carb in time and drawing in time so now I'm trying to and I noticed if I wait two seconds after the click idk where I must of read about that but it helps with getting a good hit. Its all practice I guess but when it works it's so good.

 

[mucsusn]

Hi folks. Brand new M owner here. It's my first Vapcap, and I just got it yesterday.

While I was waiting for it to be delivered, I tried to do some research on effective use of the carb, as I had already ready about the trade-off between airflow and the thickness of the vapour.

Perhaps my research skills aren't good enough, but the only comments I can find on the matter always refer to having it closed (covered) or open (uncovered) or some kind of mod to fix the device somewhere in between.

The term "feathering" is used, but I haven't seen an actual description of how that is done (I presume it's just lifting your finger off and lowering it back on the hole, but I'm new to this and could be wrong.)

When I tried my M for the first time, I stumbled on a nice carb technique after the third or fourth heat cycle, and have been using it ever since.

When the cap is up to temp, I hold the unit with thumb and finger, with my fingertip over the hole and thumb on the opposite side. This is the starting position. Then all I have to do is just roll it between thumb and finger. Rolling it just a few degrees counter-clockwise (when holding it in my right hand) is enough to go from completely closed to completely open. By rolling it back and forth, I can adjust the airflow anywhere in between open and closed.

This technique allows continuously variable adjustment to the airflow. I can get very cloudy hits on the second heat cycle (without resorting to mouth pulls on a completely closed carb), and then gradually move towards the completely open position as I finish the draw. The ease of this technique and the fine level of control it provides makes me less likely to pay the premium for an Omnivap. I'll probably get a titanium tip though (the modular nature of these is great).

Anyway, sorry if this is all common knowledge. I'm new to this thread and my search results didn't turn up any detailed discussion of this technique.

I hope this is useful information for some.

You nailed it!

 

[Cl4ud3]

My OG Dynastash and Ti Vong - and the new Ebony OmniVong with filled wormhole

 

[stardustsailor]

Because as the cap is being heated, it is transferring that heat to the tip that it's in contact with... via conduction. So the tip and cap have to share that heat between them. The less mass to heat, the faster the rest of the mass (cap + tip) can heat up together. With the larger mass of the 7-fin tip, it requires more time or more applied energy. Assuming that we keep the energy applied constant (same lighter, same flame length for example) then more time is going to be necessary to heat the larger mass of the 7-fin tip than the 5-fin tip.

Exactly .
With a silly note ,just for the semantics : It's "applied power" and not "applied energy ",
as energy is the result of power x time .
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It has come to my understanding that in a conduction vaporizer system
a low "thermal inertia" (allow me to use this term in order to describe the general thermal response of the vaporising system in relation with the energy exchange incorporated ) is wished as ideal ,due to nature of the vaporization technique involved ,while regarding the convection vaporizers,then a high thermal inertia should be considered ideal.

A conduction vaporizer should have a heating system that is rather fast ,
regarding the increase / decrease of it's temperature,
depending on the amount of "ingoing" and "outgoing" energy ,respectively .
That characteristic is the most ideal as the herb material is in contact with the heating
element(s) and constant control of the heating power and time is involved ,either if this is achieved manually by the user adjusting the flame characteristics or
is an automated action performed by electronic systems
involving ultra precise and highly sophisticated PID control .

That, in order to be able to keep ideal temperatures for sustainable vaporization and
avoid overheating and possible combustion.
Quick regarding heating times but also quick to cool down .
Or to put it power-wise : "easy" to heat and "easy" to cool.

From the other hand , a convection vaporizer should have a "rock -steady" heating system.
As the heating element is not in contact with the herb material ,but it heats an air stream.
No matter the speed of the air stream(created by inhalation or fan ) ,
the heating system must maintain a steady temperature.
Precise temperature control is not the main issue at this case ,but
to have the ability to store heat.And storing heat requires lots of mass.
But lot's of mass takes long time to heat and cool ,or needs lots of power
to heat / cool ,or both .
--------------------------------------------------------------------
How the 5 fin M tip functions ,compared with the new 5 fin Ti tip ?

The M tip compared with the new Ti tips is like comparing
a Fiat with a Ferrari in terms of "speed" of thermal reaction ,towards applied or subtracted energy.

Many times it happened to me ,while heating the M the lighter went off,
before reaching the click temperature.
Still the cap clicked just few moments afterwards !
That is the thermal "inertia" I'm talking about.
And while the M is great for introducing someone to the wonder-world of VapCaps or
even revert a smoker into a vaper ,still can not be compared to a VC with a Ti Tip.
Especially with the latest generation Ti tip ,which is extremely fast.
Yes,it is much better tip than the previous 7 fin generation.
With noticeable differencies function-wise.At least ,from what I can tell .

 

[stark1]

Exactly .
With a silly note ,just for the semantics : It's "applied power" and not "applied energy ",
as energy is the result of power x time .

It comes to my understanding that in a conduction vaporizer system
a low "thermal inertia" (allow me to use this term in order to describe the general thermal response of the vaporising system in relation with the energy exchange incorporated ) is wished ,while regarding the convection vaporizers,
then a high thermal inertia should be considered ideal.

A conduction vaporizer should have a heating system that is rather fast ,
regarding the increase / decrease of it's temperature,
depending on the amount of "ingoing" and "outgoing" energy ,respectively .
That, in order to be able to keep ideal temperatures for sustainable vaporization and
avoid overheating and possible combustion.
Quick regarding heating times but also quick to cool down .

From the other hand , a convection vaporizer should have a "rock -steady" heating system.
No matter the speed of the air stream(created by inhalation or fan ) ,
the heating system must maintain a steady temperature.
Meaning ,to have the ability to store heat.And storing heat requires lots of mass.
But lot's of mass takes long time to heat and cool ,or needs lots of power
to heat / cool ,or both .

The M tip compared with the new Ti tips is like comparing
a Fiat with a Ferrari in terms of "speed" of thermal reaction ,towards applied or subtracted energy.

Many times it happened to me ,while heating the M the lighter went off,
before reaching the click temperature.
Still the cap clicked just few moments afterwards !
That is the thermal "inertia" I'm talking about.
And while the M is great for introducing someone to the wonder-world of VapCaps or
even revert a smoker into a vaper ,still can not be compared with a VC with a Ti Tip.
Especially the latest generation one ,which is extremely fast.
Yes,it is much better tip than the previous generation.
With noticeable differencies function-wise.At least ,from what I can tell .

Hey, sounds like I am back in thermodynamics class.
Thanks, for the mini-lesson!

Now I can heat transfer with my VapCap M effectively.
--OH, wait! Should I pull out my precious Omni

with the 5-fin tip and

 

[SloJimFizz]

Those are two handsome specimens.
We have similar tastes my friend.
So much so I recreated your pic.
Had them both out this morning a/b ing them and the differing draw resistance between two gen 4 tips. My head is like

 

[toked23]

Ok guys(and ladies) I'm interested in one of these. They just look beautiful to me, and only needing a lighter and no batteries seems cool. Question I have for all of you is which one to choose? Which one is better? Why should I choose one or the other? Helppp please

For instance: m is 50$, Omni is 170$ ish. Does the Omni outperform it or is it just materials or look?

 

[SloJimFizz]

Ok guys.
For instance: m is 50$, Omni is 170$ ish. Does the Omni outperform it or is it just materials or look?

Some of the most informed here are ladies.
Materials and the work put into building the omni raise the cost. The M is their entry level unit and will get you most of the VC experience. The Omni is just built like a tank, is easier to clean and pull apart. No messing with little condenser rings. The condenser/mouthpiece is what jacks the price up between the Ti Woody and the Omni. That piece is worth $50 over the standard condenser any day.
Which one is right for you can only be answered by you. Can't go wrong either way.
Slippery slope though. Their like potato chips.....

 

[Prolusio]

When the cap is up to temp, I hold the unit with thumb and finger, with my fingertip over the hole and thumb on the opposite side. This is the starting position. Then all I have to do is just roll it between thumb and finger. Rolling it just a few degrees counter-clockwise (when holding it in my right hand) is enough to go from completely closed to completely open. By rolling it back and forth, I can adjust the airflow anywhere in between open and closed.

Welcome to the Family!

That's exactly how I "feather" my carb hole as well! I find it perfect for adjusting the airflow and I feel more secure keeping the Vapcap pinched in my fingers than my lips. With a spinning MP it's even easier!

My favourite combo for this technique is my Nonavong with a Ti spinning MP. With the flat sides it feels like you can get a really small gap between your finger and carb hole so lots of airflow variance; and the spinning MP makes it twist back and forth completely freely. Pictured right. Edit: @Winegums Amphora on the left!

 

[toked23]

Some of the most informed here are ladies.
Materials and the work put into building the omni raise the cost. The M is their entry level unit and will get you most of the VC experience. The Omni is just built like a tank, is easier to clean and pull apart. No messing with little condenser rings. The condenser/mouthpiece is what jacks the price up between the Ti Woody and the Omni. That piece is worth $50 over the standard condenser any day.
Which one is right for you can only be answered by you. Can't go wrong either way.
Slippery slope though. Their like potato chips.....

Ha, edited just for you, but I did mean guys as in everyone, haha.

So you suggest the Omni?

Anyone else have a suggestion? Things to consider etc

 

[Winegums]

Ok guys(and ladies) I'm interested in one of these. They just look beautiful to me, and only needing a lighter and no batteries seems cool. Question I have for all of you is which one to choose? Which one is better? Why should I choose one or the other? Helppp please

For instance: m is 50$, Omni is 170$ ish. Does the Omni outperform it or is it just materials or look?

The M is made from all Stainless steel and lacks any sort of adjustment or features. It doesn't have the adjust-a-bowl grooves that let you change the chamber size, it is not compatible with the Omni condenser, and it only comes with two X-ring locations on the condenser.

The Ti tips will heat up and cool faster than the SS tips allowing for better performance on the first heat cycle, as well as having better airflow.

The Omni Condenser is essentially a manual choke for the carb on the vapcap. It lets you dial in how much fresh air is coming in such that the vapour is diluted to your preference. The vapour coming off a vapcap can be quite hot and thick so adding a little air can make a huge difference. I used to not want to use my vapcap straight to my lips because it was actually burning my lip in places from the hot vapour. So I was exclusively using it with water pieces and not really getting a great portable experience. The Omni totally changed this for me once I got it set at 85% choke. The vapour is now smooth and doesn't burn my lips anymore.

Other things to note are the CCD differences. The CCD is the small screen that goes in the vapcap tip to prevent bits from coming through. I find that the Ti CCD are much harder to work with and often bend out of shape while trying to install and remove them. The SS screens on the other hand are much easier to deal with and offer the same performance as the Ti CCD. I recommend using a medium size sewing needle to install the screens, pushing via the small pinhole in the middle.

I would recommend picking up some hemp fibre, extra SS CCD, and o-rings with your purchase. The extra CCD and hemp fibre are used to make a filter pack for the vapcap which really helps to keep the inside of the piece clean. @Squiby has a post in her signature that will show you how to do it.

 

[stark1]

Ok guys(and ladies) I'm interested in one of these. They just look beautiful to me, and only needing a lighter and no batteries seems cool. Question I have for all of you is which one to choose? Which one is better? Why should I choose one or the other? Helppp please

For instance: m is 50$, Omni is 170$ ish. Does the Omni outperform it or is it just materials or look?

There are several ways to build up your VAS collection, bottom up, or top down.

Your wallet may be happier bottom up, but sometimes a person would do well fly high. Get all.
(Only, gradually).

 

[toked23]

The M is made from all Stainless steel and lacks any sort of adjustment or features. It doesn't have the adjust-a-bowl grooves that let you change the chamber size, it is not compatible with the Omni condenser, and it only comes with two X-ring locations on the condenser.

The Ti tips will heat up and cool faster than the SS tips allowing for better performance on the first heat cycle, as well as having better airflow.

The Omni Condenser is essentially a manual choke for the carb on the vapcap. It lets you dial in how much fresh air is coming in such that the vapour is diluted to your preference. The vapour coming off a vapcap can be quite hot and thick so adding a little air can make a huge difference. I used to not want to use my vapcap straight to my lips because it was actually burning my lip in places from the hot vapour. So I was exclusively using it with water pieces and not really getting a great portable experience. The Omni totally changed this for me once I got it set at 85% choke. The vapour is now smooth and doesn't burn my lips anymore.

Other things to note are the CCD differences. The CCD is the small screen that goes in the vapcap tip to prevent bits from coming through. I find that the Ti CCD are much harder to work with and often bend out of shape while trying to install and remove them. The SS screens on the other hand are much easier to deal with and offer the same performance as the Ti CCD. I recommend using a medium size sewing needle to install the screens, pushing via the small pinhole in the middle.

I would recommend picking up some hemp fibre, extra SS CCD, and o-rings with your purchase. The extra CCD and hemp fibre are used to make a filter pack for the vapcap which really helps to keep the inside of the piece clean. @Squiby has a post in her signature that will show you how to do it.

Ha, thank you. This is what I'm looking for. Great info

There are several ways to build up your VAS collection, bottom up, or top down.

Your wallet may be happier bottom up, but sometimes a person would do well fly high. Get all.
(Only, gradually).

Ha, I know all about VAS. I have the Pax 2, and 3. Firefly2 and some kind of pen and a v2 series 3. Adds up quick, lol. This one seems to have a place in my collection though, VC that is.