Dynavap VapCap

[GreenHopper]

I have been using my M for a couple days and i like it.
My only negative comment is the airflow is ridiculous, there is none, it feels like trying to suck a golf ball through a garden hose. I actually prefer the airflow from my Vapman.
Everyting else is great, loading, handling, clicking cap, but damn that airflow!

I had the same experience (used it for the first time last night for 6 or 7 sessions) but since this is only my second vape, I blamed my incompetence.

Basically what I found is that if I leave the carb completely open, the hit is smooth and I have no problem inhaling...which sounds logical. But doing this, I don't really get a lot of vapour production and as such I feel like I'm not "doing it right".
On the contrary, if I put my finger on the carb completely blocking it, the hit is so much satisfying, hotter, cough-inducing, with definitely more vapour...but it's super hard to do it, I really need to put some lung power in it. The golf ball and hose metaphor definitely fits.

Also, another thing I found is that my sessions only last for a single draw, and I use a single torch lighter that - if I understand correctly - should make the cap retain heat better. Like I heat it, in about 15/20 seconds the cap clicks, I take a slow draw and when I'm exhaling usually it's already clicking another time, meaning it's cooled down.

I put only a couple little nugs in there, so maybe I need to pack it more? Also, my weed is pretty old and dry, hopefully I'll have some better quality one to try my M with.

I will of course keep trying to improve my technique, but if you have any advice please do share!

Thanks

Same here, it's super open when uncarbed, or completely blocked when carbed.
I have found that by roling the vape side to side in between my fingers ever so slightly i can open the carb very little and control fresh air intake, but i wish it had more flow with the carb plugged.
It definitely works, but it's not super enjoyable.

Hi Guys,

One option for managing the carb on a non-Omni device is to take a bit of rolling paper (a small square tab from the gum section) and place it over the carb hole.

You can then take a needle and pierce a small hole in the paper to allow a smaller amount of air in through the carb hole. The bigger the hole in the paper the more air is in the mixture resulting in a lower draw resistance.

Obviously this is a work around and is less adjustable than playing with the O-Ring placement but it is easy to apply/remove so works well when trying to figure out your prefered air to vapor mixture.

 

[Mustang_52]

will a titanium tip work on the M? and will it improve the M by doing this?

 

[TheVaporist]

Somebody knows if the search button is dead these days?

 

[mucsusn]

Cheers man, I will try that tonight. It's confusing because, coming from smoking (both blunts and cigarettes) I had to learn how to inhale directly into lungs when I got my Alternate, because at the beginning I was doing "mouth to lung" without results. With the M it's the other way around!
Excited to put my new knowledge at test


Cool, I will try that as well. I haven't disassembled the M yet, since I was a bit afraid of fucking things up. But this looks like a good way to automatically restrict the airflow a bit; and since I want to use it with my smokers friends to try and convert them it definitely seems like a good idea.
Thanks!

Amazing how different techniques are applied to these little beasts......with my VC's, I do deep click to click lung pulls, feathering the carb for temp and flow, but mostly closed.....as far as torches go, I splurged on a nice two flame Lotus that points the two flames together. Sort of like a hotter single. On my two Omni's, I keep the condenser dialed out as much as possible, but still use the carb. On my new M, I tried the suggestion from a few pages back where I set the condenser in from the mouthpiece about 1/8", makes it behave a bit closer to the Omni's. Worth a try by M users to see if it complements your style of use.

Edit - And I always forget to talk about grind and moisture......I think that these two things make a huge difference in performance across the range of techniques. Our great friend @Squiby, and some others, are fans of the "Nug pinch" method. For me, I started out early with C-Vaults and Boveda packs, so my weekly prep grind is VERY consistent (given that an Oz. can last me 4 months on average, as opposed to an Oz. a month when I was combusting). I create my weekly stash by grinding 2g in a large Santa Cruz 4pc, grinding upright for the maximum grind size. That leaves me with what I consider a medium/coarse grind. I store that in a 50ml Miron Vitality Glass wide mouth container. My EDC for the ground flower is a doob tube, which can easily hold 4 days of use. So from day to day and week to week, I've created a routine that gives me very consistent material for my vapes. An added bonus is that my chosen grind works well in every device on my list (as I don't own any of the pure conduction vapes which like a finer grind), which makes the overall ritual that much more satisfying . Life is good........

 

[jds]

Does anyone know what kind of temperature the various parts of a vapcap reach?

Mainly the cap itself, the tip (both ti and SS) and the inside of the chamber.

 

[GreenHopper]

Still a vapcap newb. But I can see the engineering design behind both and there is enough of a dif that there is one distinctive pro/con. The 'M' has no moving parts. Omni you can adjust. to oversimplify.


I'm not sure how I'm supposed to be using the carb. Do I keep it covered when I heat my cap? Do I keep it covered at the beginning then allow for the click then release the carb. I don't feel like I'm getting the knack.

I know that if I allow any flame to slip between the cap and the materials means combustion. Pass it on.

My 3 flame torch is empty already from all the testing. I also want to get skilled with an ordinary lighter in a pinch. Starting to see why some might prefer a slower lighter perhaps. Any insight and advanced method or understanding would be helpful and would speed up my learning curve and I can pass that on to save on butane for all Vap newbs like me. I don't feel like I'm getting the best results with what I'm working with. So anyone want to walk us through their technique? I need to get to the intermediate level if I can be of help.

Any geeks want to geekspeak about the engineering and how it is meant to work on the science level of things? Am I supposed to try to get the tip to absorb some heat or should the cap get nearly all the heat? Or some other ideal ratio?
Am I purposely trying to heat the airspace between the condenser and the outer wall. And how should I effectively use the carb. Feel clueless as to best method and I don't feel like wasting the fuel from another lighter right away. Oh I did lower the fuel intake, etc. TX.

Edit - just caught @stardustsailor 's post a sec ago.

Hello bud,

So the flame placement is the difference between a quick click and a slow click.

The clicker is in the end of the cap so the further back along the cap the flame goes the longer it takes for the heat to travel to the clicker, thus a slower click.

The longer it takes to get to the click the more heat is being transferred to the cap, and thus the tip by heat transference.

I try to keep the inner darker part of the flame licking the cap, sorry the drawing is a little crude but in real life the weaker part of the flame isn't quite as large as what I've depicted but it gives you an idea.

A dual flame lighter will transfer heat quicker to the cap as well as heating up a wider section of the cap. This means more heat in less time and a quicker time to click.

Can't comment on triple flame as I don't use one. Although one can assume another jet flame would equal more heat and depending if it's inline or in a triangular format possibly offers a wider heating profile over more surface area of the cap. Again quicker time to click and more heat transferred to the cap/tip in less time.

The more heat that gets into the Cap and (thus the Tip) the higher the higher the heat being passed on to the material. The higher heat releases actives that boil off at the higher heat range just like any other vape.

You do not need to cover the carb when heating the cap.

The carb only comes into play when air is being drawn through the Tip.

When drawing on the VapCap you are pulling air in through the tip as well as through the carb hole.

If you want greater density of Vapor you can close off the carb hole so that you are mixing less cool air with the hot vapor.

The small blue-to-red arrows indicate air heated up by the Tip and the Cap which apply the convection style heat to the material.

The large orange arrows indicate conductive heat that is applied to the material.

 

[Winegums]

Does anyone know what kind of temperature the various parts of a vapcap reach?

Mainly the cap itself, the tip (both ti and SS) and the inside of the chamber.

It depends where you heat the cap, and since you can combust you're looking at anything from 70F-500F. The cap gets the hottest during use as it's what takes the heat input and transfers it to the tip, (conduction-radiated heat). I've gotten my cap glowing orange when it's in the flame but never combusted. The tip doesn't get nearly as hot

If you're wanting to know for the purposes of vapourization and cannabinoid targeting. The range of effects falls somewhere in the 400-420*F area when you're riding the edge of combustion. If you heat it near the tip of the cap you're going to get a much lower temp extraction in the 355-375*F range.

I'm sorry I can't give you specific temperatures, it's the nature of the vape.

Someone,in order to measure the temp of the chamber , would need a K type thermocouple
Inserted via the mp throughout the condenser to tip .
CCD has to be removed or the center hole of it to be enlarged so that the thermocouple
wire can fit through .Then a high accuracy K type thermocouple HID has to be used.

I plan on doing it ,as I have all the equipment needed.
But not until next weekend .

This was my thought too. Maybe George has already been doing this and we can get some findings from him?

 

[stardustsailor]

Does anyone know what kind of temperature the various parts of a vapcap reach?

Mainly the cap itself, the tip (both ti and SS) and the inside of the chamber.

Someone,in order to measure the temp of the chamber , would need a K type thermocouple
Inserted via the mp throughout the condenser to tip .
CCD has to be removed or the center hole of it to be enlarged so that the thermocouple
wire can fit through .Then a high accuracy K type thermocouple HID has to be used.

I plan on doing it ,as I have all the equipment needed.
But not until next weekend .

 

[Dynalowrider]

Ok, people are asking why the Omni is more expensive than others, just read back through the last few pages. All the discussion about the carb, airport, whatever you want to call it.
Well the answer to all that is the Omni. There is a sweet spot that is just right for your taste. I adjust my Omni for use with glass, close it almost shut with a little carb-air mixed in. I adjust it for use with a little more carb-air for native vaping.
As to that I think the Omni is the most versatile, economical, satisfying, vape out there. The Omni is made for micro dosing. To quote Ron Popiel, "Just set it, and forget it."

If all the nubees would just RTF Thread all the mystery and confusion would be removed. Then you would know what the rest of us know. This is one awesome vape system. Good on you George.
Doc said that.

 

[exime]

@CuckFumbustion To use my "M" I use a 3 flame vertigo torch and hold the flame far away enough so that you're heating where the three flames turn into 1 light blue flame. It will seem far away at first but it's still a massive amount of heat. You will need dark lighting to be able to see this part of the flame which will be invisible in sunlight but once you memorize where it is you can do it even in bright lighting. I try to heat all around the side of the cap make sure not keeping it in one place. I used a 2 flame torch and didnt like it as much.

The first click won't give you a lot of vapor. Then as it warms up your 2nd, and 3rd click should yield a lot of vapor if you're doing it right. I just feather the carb or cover it about 3/4 full or 1/2 full. If I'm not holding it at 3/4 or 1/2 full then I will take my finger off completely then fully close carb and repeat really fast (feathering).

Towards the end of the session I go about a second past the click. I found some of my strains will give a massive cloud at the end of a session if I do this. It will taste a touch popcorny but not bad. I assume this is about 430 degrees if you go a second or so past the click. The problem with this technique is if you're not careful you will combust but it's worth it to get all of the goodies out of it unless you want potent AVB.

 

[PeteSeattle]

Anyone catch the half page ad for VC in Dope Magazine? This is from the Seattle publication. Moving on up!

 

[stardustsailor]

I'm sorry I can't give you specific temperatures, it's the nature of the vape.
This was my thought too. Maybe George has already been doing this and we can get some findings from him?

Come to think better about it.
You are right!
It's the vape's nature that won't allow for precise temp measurments inside the chamber.
After all its the cap's clickers that click at certain -predetermined_ temperature.
And I'm pretty sure that George can provide us with the exact click temperature of the cap.
Knowing that constant,the user -mainly by acquired experience can then adjust the
variables involed into the nature of the vape,like :flame distance,roll speed,
cap zone heated,number of flames,etc,in order to achieve the desired effects.

So its the clickers' temperature we're after.That is a constant value,at least to begin with.

 

[SloJimFizz]

Plus I tried a church warden-esque stem.

Shorter gong with mouth piece

The church warden (flat mouth piece)

Thanks for looking.
And I hope everyone receives their green/purple packages soon!

Nice work.
These long stem Winston Churchill style, although not my cup of tea, have peaked my interest.
School me on these, do you still use the condenser and load it from the tip side?
The glass Vong is tits! I can see adding one of those to the rotation.

 

[smokeydabear]

Come to think better about it.
You are right!
It's the vape's nature that won't allow for precise temp measurments inside the chamber.
After all its the cap's clickers that click at certain -predetermined_ temperature.
And I'm pretty sure that George can provide us with the exact click temperature of the cap.
Knowing that constant,the user -mainly by acquired experience can then adjust the
variables involed into the nature of the vape,like :flame distance,roll speed,
cap zone heated,number of flames,etc,in order to achieve the desired effects.

So its the clickers' temperature we're after.That is a constant value,at least to begin with.

On the dynavap youtube page they have a Q&A vid that mentions the approximate temps the cap click at.

 

[PeteSeattle]

Nice work.
These long stem Winston Churchill style, although not my cup of tea, have peaked my interest.
School me on these, do you still use the condenser and load it from the tip side?
The glass Vong is tits! I can see adding one of those to the rotation.

Thanks @SloJimFizz. I do use the condenser in the long stems with just one o-ring past the carb inserting from the top.
And, yes, fill the tip as normal.

Thanks for your feedback

 

[Winegums]

Come to think better about it.
You are right!
It's the vape's nature that won't allow for precise temp measurments inside the chamber.
After all its the cap's clickers that click at certain -predetermined_ temperature.
And I'm pretty sure that George can provide us with the exact click temperature of the cap.
Knowing that constant,the user -mainly by acquired experience can then adjust the
variables involed into the nature of the vape,like :flame distance,roll speed,
cap zone heated,number of flames,etc,in order to achieve the desired effects.

So its the clickers' temperature we're after.That is a constant value,at least to begin with.

There's so many variables that you can change isn't there? I think this why this vape is working for so many different people. Depending on your heating ritual, chamber settings and vapour path you might get a totally different experience/performance out of what is essentially the same vape. It can be a light sipper or a heavy hitter, more conduction or less conduction depending on how slowly you heat it, etc.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I just enjoyed 2 light heats on a whole nug, before crushing it into dust and reloading for two more strong follow up hits. I easily could have toasted the nug in one go through my bong but this seemed like the way to go this morning.

Single flame torch heating on "DY"navap, four times
2/3 size bowl, whole nug (compressed)
Omni set to 90% choke
Ti 4th gen tip

 

[DirtyD]

Any cappers using organic cotton instead of hemp fiber for filter samwich??? I got plenty, alas no degummed HF till my next pkg arrives. Cheers and more beers, dirty d.

 

[FabulatorPoeta]

Does anyone know what kind of temperature the various parts of a vapcap reach?

Mainly the cap itself, the tip (both ti and SS) and the inside of the chamber.

This past post offered some info about that :
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/dynavap-vapcap.18853/page-98#post-925590

 

[stardustsailor]

On the dynavap youtube page they have a Q&A vid that mentions the approximate temps the cap click at.

Well not exactly.
George is -most probably-mentioning the approx. temperatures the chamber will have when the click is heard,depending on where exactly you heat the cap.
The two clickers have an exact temperature value (constant) when they do "click".
So,depending where the heat is applied on the cap,
that temperature to be reached, will need a certain amount of time.
Depending whether that amount of time was short or long ,
the chamber 's temperature will increase accordingly.

But ,as mentioned before ,there are more than few variables that will affect the chamber's temperature.
The clickers "action temp" ,from the other hand,has a pretty constant and exact value.

 

[Winegums]

Any cappers using organic cotton instead of hemp fiber for filter samwich??? I got plenty, alas no degummed HF till my next pkg arrives. Cheers and more beers, dirty d.

I find that Cotton will effect the flavour slightly when brought up to vapourization temps. Though I haven't put it in my Vapcap I have used it in my Herbalizer.

 

[DirtyD]

Thanks @Winegums , u da man. Cheers, dirty d.

 

[TheVaporist]

...

and a Thuya Square

The legendary black cap, proudly standing between his brothers, he has obviously the bigger!

And what a beautiful Thuya square! Smooth and great shape! His owner is gonna be pleased for sure!

 

[Squiby]

I have been using my M for a couple days and i like it.
My only negative comment is the airflow is ridiculous, there is none, it feels like trying to suck a golf ball through a garden hose. I actually prefer the airflow from my Vapman.
Everyting else is great, loading, handling, clicking cap, but damn that airflow!

if I leave the carb completely open, the hit is smooth and I have no problem inhaling...which sounds logical. But doing this, I don't really get a lot of vapour production and as such I feel like I'm not "doing it right".
On the contrary, if I put my finger on the carb completely blocking it, the hit is so much satisfying, hotter, cough-inducing, with definitely more vapour...but it's super hard to do it, I really need to put some lung power in it.

Use the mouthpull technique for smooth thick vapor that is easy on your throat and lungs. See my tips in the posts below in my signature at the bottom of this post for the full technique.

I'm not sure how I'm supposed to be using the carb. Do I keep it covered when I heat my cap? Do I keep it covered at the beginning then allow for the click then release the carb. I don't feel like I'm getting the knack.

Heating the cap prior to toking and using the carb while toking are two separate activities. First you heat the cap while twirling the VC for even heating. When it comes to toking temps, the cap will click. At this point you stop twirling the VC, bring it to your lips, cover the carb (or not) and start toking. Covering the carb will concentrate the vapor since you are not introducing fresh air, but pulling the vapor directly into your lungs with the carb closed would be difficult. Please read links to the posts below for a full explanation.

will a titanium tip work on the M? and will it improve the M by doing this?

Yes! The SS M tip has fewer and shallower channels in the tip to allow air to be heated and drawn through material.

The Ti tip has many deep and wide air channels allowing for much more superheated air to be heated between the cap and chamber as well as more cooling fins on the neck for heat dispersion. There is a greater convection action with the Ti tip and less draw resistance even with the carb closed.

 

[jds]

This past post offered some info about that :
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/dynavap-vapcap.18853/page-98#post-925590

Interesting, I always imagined the cap would reach a much higher temperature than 400f, but this design makes a lot of sense now.

 

[Jethro]

I'm gonna ask a stupid question, but I think I've been here long enough to have earned the right LOLOLOL..

How are people liking the Nonavongs? I use my ti-woody right now every day, almost exclusively through water. I use the rubber mouth tip to one of the three OG's that I have broken and push that into my glass piece, almost always a D-020. Sometimes the UFO. It seals pretty good if I push it down, but with the tight draw of the Dynavap I'm a little worried that the wood won't seal tight as the rubber. Am I being foolish in thinking that? I imagine I am because I don't see George sending anything out to pasture that isn't up to snuff. Just looking for feedback because I am going to place an order this weekend to get in with the sale and I've never used anything other than glass on glass or the rubber on glass with my bubbler.