Dynavap VapCap

beyond6strings

beyond6strings

Just another traveller in the Cannaverse
Ripstar said:
Is anyone rocking the sneaky petes globes? If so, which size? I wish there was some sort of protective device for it like Austin Simrell showed in a video!
Click to expand...

I have both and ‘need’ both. The Mega Globe is perfect for my Ditanium, Flip Brick and Elev8r because of better stability and increased cooling. The Globe is perfect for all my vapcaps and VLeaf Go.

Cheers
 
Moses Baca

Moses Baca

Colorado State Reformatory #8755
No price yet. Updates posted yesterday in the Fluxer thread -

mr_cfromcali said:
Hi everyone,

We are almost at the end of October, and it's been a busy month behind the scenes here at Fluxer Heaters. I want to give you an update on where things stand with the various Fluxer projects.

The Flite:





The Flite is shaping up to be a great little heater, and I know you will like it a lot once it's ready to go.

Physically, things are pretty well set. Everything fits, and the result is a tight, solid build.

Functionally, @TommyDee has been helping me - or maybe I'm the one who has been the helper, lol - and we are getting closer to the correct recipe of inductance, capacitance, and work coil values to achieve the best heating performance and battery life we can. On Monday I sent him the most recent build and a selection of components to evaluate, and we are both hopeful that we'll have the right formula worked out very soon.

We've narrowed the choices to a few contenders in each of three categories: inductors, capacitors, and work coil size, and the final step is to test these in each possible combination and see which recipe emerges as the best overall.

The complicating factor, and one that I think took us both by surprise, is the variation in the circuit's performance when heating a lightweight ti tip vs. a slow-to-heat boat anchor like the 20M. This circuit makes the most of what it has to work with, and it needs to wring every erg and joule it can from the 18350 batteries. It's been challenging to find the happy medium that heats well and is also reliable. I have learned A LOT MORE about this circuit in the last four weeks or so, and this is after being pretty familiar with it for the last several years. It's been a very enlightening month. :sherlock: There is more range in the Dynavap product line than you may realize, and there's also more ability to tune the IH circuit than I realized. "The more you know," eh ;)

The TL;DR for the above: We are still testing a few components to find the best configuration. We are almost there, but we likely need at least one more week to test various component choices before we land on the correct configuration.

Other relevant news: I am still waiting for the cases to be made and shipped. That should happen within the next two weeks. I'll keep you updated and let you know as soon as I learn more.

Price: I'm still working on this. The configuration has changed quite a bit since I posted the "sneak peek" video a few months ago, and it isn't quite done yet. The Flite now has a lot more functionality and value than it did in its original configuration. It's also taken more iterations to reach this point than I expected it would, and as a result my development costs have been higher than anticipated.

Lastly, I recently found out that the rules around shipping Lion batteries are more permissive than I realized, and that it's legal to ship a few battery cells with a device as long as they are pre-installed in the device when it ships. :sherlock: TIL. Now that I am aware of this, I'm working with a battery vendor to purchase some 18350 cells in bulk, so I can offer together a "turn-key" package of the Flite, batteries, and a charger. That will be the top end, and the price for that package will determine the prices for less complete packages I offer "below" it. There's a delay at the moment as I need to complete some add'l paperwork for my resale license to finalize the bulk battery purchase price, and that paperwork is waiting on some other tax paperwork I'm expecting from my CPA. All of that will be settled soon, but that's why I haven't finalized the Flite's price(s) yet.

:popcorn:

Stay tuned! The final stages of development are usually boring from the outside, but as I learned with the Flix, they are absolutely necessary for a successful product launch. I'll be back with more info soon!

Flux Deluxe v2 (FDv2):



The latest on the FDv2 is that I received the first set of FDv2 circuit boards last week. Unfortunately, the first set of circuit boards had a few fitment issues that prevented me from assembling a working heater, but I am hopeful the next set will be better. That "next set" of FDv2 PCBs are on their way to me now and should be here by Friday. I'm hopeful they'll yield a working build. I'll keep you posted.

:popcorn:

Flix:

I am cautiously optimistic that I've finally cracked the mystery of the Flix's MOSFET issue, the one that has frustrated me and more than a few of you.

I discovered a clue I while I was testing the Flite: I observed that the heater circuit takes a "big gulp" of electrical power as it begins a heating cycle, but what happens next depends on its power source. When the heater is powered by batteries, the batteries limit this in-rush of current to some degree, and this keeps a minimal amount of electrical energy in all parts of the circuit. However, when the heater is powered by a mains adapter, the adapter is more efficient and thus capable of delivering a lot of energy to the heating circuit almost instantaneously. This initial in-rush of current comes so quickly and so strongly that it can deplete the capacitors, causing the MOSFETs to instantly die. This was especially evident when heating a heavy piece like the 20M.

The solution has been to alter the formula of capacitors and inductors to increase the capacitance and also slow down that "gulp". This seems to solve the root of the problem, which has always been my goal. :tup:

I have been slow to make more Flix while I wrestled with this issue, but testing is showing me that I now have a good formula, and this is the correct solution. I am not sure this will solve things 100% of the time - solving for 100% of anything seems unlikely - but starting with more capacitance and less inductance should make the Flix much more reliable, which is the goal.

I will be adding another batch of Flix to the store soon, and I'm hopeful this new configuration will prove to be more stable.

Going forward, if you are a current Flix owner and your Flix is working, please continue to use it as you have been. There's no need to change anything unless it stops working.

If your Flix does stop working and you send it back for repair, I will repair it with the new capacitor and inductor configuration. :nod:


OK, that's the latest. A lot of jibber-jabber, but hopefully some good stuff in there, too. :D

I'll have another update later in the week after I receive the next batch of PCBs from the manufacturer.

Cheers,
:leaf:
Click to expand...
 
mr_cfromcali

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
stark1 said:
:cool: Has anyone bought a very little/lite 18350, Flite_fromcali?

So many new toys, & it isn’t even—feels like Christmas already?

Click to expand...

Hi @stark1 ,

The short answer is that it isn't quite ready yet. I'm still waiting for the cases to arrive, for one thing, so that's probably the biggest dependency at the moment. There are a few other loose ends I need to tie up, too, so on the whole I think we are on track for launching ~3 weeks from now, assuming the necessary parts get here on time. I would like to begin selling these before Thanksgiving, and I am working very hard to make that happen. I may end up eating those words, lol, but things are pretty close.

The circuit is basically done, and we are just finalizing the values to find the best mix of performance and battery life. @TommyDee has been my adviser and lead tester for this project, and his contributions to this have been huge. I'll be posting another video, pricing info, options, etc. once we are just a bit closer to being done.

I have been using the current prototype as my daily driver for for the last month or so, and I don't think I'm over-hyping it to say that it's a very comfortable device. I'm very eager to finish it and get it out there!

I'll have more to share in the next few weeks, as we finalize the last few details and switch from testing to production.

Cheers,
:leaf:
 
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stark1

stark1

Lonesome Planet
mr_c/ TD, could a V V board and/or a temp control cxt be integrated into the unit to control
The heating, for a future project? :cool:
 
stark1,
mr_cfromcali

mr_cfromcali

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
stark1 said:
mr_c/ TD, could a V V board and/or a temp control cxt be integrated into the unit to control
The heating, for a future project? :cool:
Click to expand...

The Flite has a PWM control mode (PWM = pulse width modulation), which pulses the heater on and off, slowly. This is a very effective form of power adjustment: instead of heating continuously at a given voltage, you are pulsing the heater on and off several times per second. Using a trim pot, you can adjust the ratio of "on" time to "off" time per pulse - aka, the duty cycle, or the mark/space relationship, where mark = 'on' and space = 'off'. The more "off" time between pulses, the cooler and more slowly it heats. It works very well. imho.

Edited to add a word.
 
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Drug

Drug

Well-Known Member
Just got an e-mail my Shell Shock stems have been shipped by @VGOODIEZ! I can't wait to try these out with my stainless steel tips and some drip tips. I've got a iridescent as well as the silver one coming. As soon as they're in I'll post some pics and my experiences with it.

IMG_20201023_105127_862_1296x.jpg
 
G

gLuGaLuG

Well-Known Member
Hi,

I've been lurking in here since I purchased a Ti woody that inevitably found itself being upgraded... haven't seen one of these in here before, so thought i'd post up a pic of where my vape stands now...

omni kevlar/carbon 46.5mm body, 5th gen Ti tip, 3.5mm carb hole, std cap...



cheers to all for all the info, pics etc that i have enjoyed in here...
 
iammyself

iammyself

Well-Known Member
A very generous member here sold me a steal of a deal on an Ed’s TNT Dynavap including a wpa midsection so I could finally see what the hype is about. I’ve been loving it, my Mighty and Sticky Brick have been feeling neglected. The midsection I got doesn’t have a carb hole drilled in it, and I kind of want to add one. Where exactly should I drill, and what bit size should I use? Thanks.

BBE26E0C-1549-4A5E-A105-94FA4FDF0B41.jpeg
 
iammyself

iammyself

Well-Known Member
cybrguy said:
Funny, on my Vongs I end up blocking the air port with an Xring. When using in a water piece I can't imagine a reason to use an air port, but maybe that is just me.
Click to expand...
I wouldn’t if it didn’t come with a matching shorty wpa as well. But the draw seems so restricted, it’d be nice to flutter a carb to get some extra air for long draws. When I run it through water, I use the wpa to bypass the condenser and minimize loss due to condensation. So the longer piece doesn’t get used with water.
 
iammyself,
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iammyself

iammyself

Well-Known Member
I realized my post was confusing by only including a photo of the midsection I want to drill the hole in. Here’s both midsections that were included; I use the shorty wpa for use on my rattle can, and the longer midsection without water. Additionally, is there a mouthpiece that I should be looking at? Thanks again.

D3595E16-E0AD-4B09-AAD9-8039F291D97C.jpeg
 
cybrguy

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
iammyself said:
I wouldn’t if it didn’t come with a matching shorty wpa as well. But the draw seems so restricted, it’d be nice to flutter a carb to get some extra air for long draws. When I run it through water, I use the wpa to bypass the condenser and minimize loss due to condensation. So the longer piece doesn’t get used with water.
Click to expand...
When I use my VCs at home I am invariably using them through a water piece and I don't really find the draw restricted that way. Direct I always mouth pull my VCs, but through water I pull with my lungs and it works quite well for me. I don't have one of those shorty Vongs, all 3 of mine are stem length, one with a mouthpiece making it an XL.
iB2kDDx.jpg

3f6nBHU.jpg
 
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T

thunderstealer1337

Well-Known Member
iammyself said:
I realized my post was confusing by only including a photo of the midsection I want to drill the hole in. Here’s both midsections that were included; I use the shorty wpa for use on my rattle can, and the longer midsection without water. Additionally, is there a mouthpiece that I should be looking at? Thanks again.

View attachment 3455
Click to expand...
Nice pickup, those look like they were part of the woodscents package not the lite one
 
thunderstealer1337,
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Smokey McVape

Smokey McVape

Well-Known Member
skipbifferty said:
Hi. I bought a dynvap m 2020 recently because I wanted a portable vape that didn't need batteries or usb power. It's pretty nice. It gets me nicely high and the taste is good for the first couple of pulls. I decided to get the Omnivap XL soon after to compare them. From a taste point of view, the Dynavap M 2020 is better. It's a stronger taste, it'tastes 'purer' to me. The Omnivap XL taste is less satisfying and tastes slightly diluted. Otherwise I prefer the Omnivap XL and I get more overal satisfaction from it because I get more vapour from it. Firstly I'm wondering if adding a spinning mouthpiece to the Omnivap and losing the adaptable mouthpiece would change the draw resistance, I have it fully open, and whether it would improve the taste of the weed? The Dynvap M 2020 is much easier to draw from. Edit. That's probably another plus for the M 2020.
Click to expand...
You get more flavour with the 2020M because it takes alot longer than the titanium tip to get to the optimal operating temperature, this is also why the 2020M doesn't produce visable vapor until the 3rd or 4th heat cycle. There is so much metal in the neck of the 2020M tip that it acts like a heat sink rapidly cooling the tip. This problem didn't occur on the earlier s/s tips. The only good thing about the 2020M tip in my opinion is the adjustable bowl feature.

mwnger said:
Me too, kind of... as in, I don't need to buy a new Omnivap. Mine works excellently - durable, reliable, quick, efficient, fun to use, and good looking too. But if there was a new Omnivap...
Click to expand...
Or a re-release of the original....
 
danielj

danielj

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
MISTER BIGMOUTH! A bit of a Sunday teaser...1st prototype; carved too deep on the face and had to rebuild.
Turned out nice...test run today tovsee how it performs Once I have more experience carving in such small stem diameter (1/2"), I will be putting some out for your usage
IMG-0710.jpg
 
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