Moses Baca

Colorado State Reformatory #8755
My PP koa stem has been good company for home quarantine.

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kronicking

New Member
Hi, I am new to the forums and the vapcap and was wondering if it is normal to have barely any airflow through the 2020m. I get harsh rips every time because the way I have to hit it is create pressure with the airflow valve closed and than open it to get the vapor that was built up. Hitting it in a bong almost seems pointless because the herb doesn't vape very well because it barely has any airflow. If I do the method with the building pressure and releasing I get really good rips and high but like I say it is very harsh so I begin coughing and wheezing the coughing lasts for about 20 mins and the wheezing can last up to 12 hours also flavor is very minimal even when heating the top of the cap. This makes a session very uncomfortable and hard to want to take anymore rips. Taking smaller rips doesn't seem to help at all and keeping the airflow channel open is pointless as I barely get anything and pulsing it causes the same harshness as I am just creating a smaller amount of pressure and than releasing it. Is this normal or did I get a dud? Also the CVap I received with it has even less airflow (pretty much zero) and is even harsher so I can't give it away as everyone hates it. So I really don't know if this is a normal thing with the vapcap. I also want to add that I am not new to vaping I got a sticky brick JR, cloud evo, da buddha which was harsh (from my recollection got it a long time ago) so I got the cloud evo. Sticky brick JR and cloud evo are nice but I wanted to get into the vapcap with the simplicity and not needing to plug it in and also after spending $200 on it.
 
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TommyDee

Vaporitor
Welcome to the forum @kronicking - First of all, don't pack the bowl to tight. Does the airflow improve if you use a smaller bowl setting with the screen thingy known as a CCD?

I've solved this on both the '18 and '19-M but I am waiting for the '20 to see if things changed. I turn my CCD over so the cone point to me. Too much flow now. I'll live with that.
 

kronicking

New Member
@TommyDee Thanks for the reply. I am doing these tests without anything packed. It appears to be the cap is the problem as it is what is causing the airflow issue.
 
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kronicking,
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kronicking

New Member
not really only if i get it right near the top and I don't really know how to get it to stay in position while being able to pull the cap off with the magnet. The weird thing is I have gotten a couple of good rips off of it but very few. When I do get good airflow it is only when the cap is right in that position if I turn it it slows the flow again I messed with the cap to try and get it to work more often but it doesn't help. I think I must have got a dud but I really can't believe both of em are bad. I am having terrible luck lately messed up nugsmasher mini which took forever to get a replacement and now this.
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
The VapCap is a different kind of vape than most others and relies on a different method of taking draws from it. Rather than drawing with your lungs or diaphram, many find it easier to draw with their mouths or mouth pull. I don't know whether you have ever smoked a cigar, but I am certain you have drawn a milkshake through a straw. This uses the same method, you create the negative pressure (sucking) with your mouth, filling it with vapor and THEN inhaling it into your lungs. This works very effectively with the Vapcap and allows it to be quite a heavy hitter even tho with your current experience this may seem unlikely. I assure you that once you have this unusual method down you will come to appreciate why this vape has a large loyal following.
You mentioned earlier that you were having problem using water with it as well and that is a little more unusual, as when using a waterpipe I don't find mouth pulling necessary and pulling with my lungs works quite effectively.

There are other users who don't find mouth pulling necessary either because they have better air flow for some reason on their VC or maybe they have stronger lungs, but I find when people are failing to get a decent hit from a VapCap, mouth pulling is often the solution. Give it a try.
 

kronicking

New Member
That sounds like the way I am using it actually. I breath it straw like and get a tiny little wisp of air on my tongue and than open the airpath. It does hit really heavy when I do this but I just felt like it wasn't usual to have barely any airflow and was wondering if others were the same. The cvap on the other hand I can't even get a wisp of air but it also hits hard but a lot harsher.
 
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kronicking

New Member
It has what looks like an indent on both the left and right side of the cap. The cvap doesn't have anything like this on the cap it is just round. I am not sure if those indents are the flat faces you are talking about?
 
kronicking,

natural farmer

Well-Known Member
Hi, I am new to the forums and the vapcap and was wondering if it is normal to have barely any airflow through the 2020m. I get harsh rips every time because the way I have to hit it is create pressure with the airflow valve closed and than open it to get the vapor that was built up. Hitting it in a bong almost seems pointless because the herb doesn't vape very well because it barely has any airflow. If I do the method with the building pressure and releasing I get really good rips and high but like I say it is very harsh so I begin coughing and wheezing the coughing lasts for about 20 mins and the wheezing can last up to 12 hours also flavor is very minimal even when heating the top of the cap. This makes a session very uncomfortable and hard to want to take anymore rips. Taking smaller rips doesn't seem to help at all and keeping the airflow channel open is pointless as I barely get anything and pulsing it causes the same harshness as I am just creating a smaller amount of pressure and than releasing it. Is this normal or did I get a dud? Also the CVap I received with it has even less airflow (pretty much zero) and is even harsher so I can't give it away as everyone hates it. So I really don't know if this is a normal thing with the vapcap. I also want to add that I am not new to vaping I got a sticky brick JR, cloud evo, da buddha which was harsh (from my recollection got it a long time ago) so I got the cloud evo. Sticky brick JR and cloud evo are nice but I wanted to get into the vapcap with the simplicity and not needing to plug it in and also after spending $200 on it.
IME since the first vapcaps, slightly different placement of the cap even by a bit can alter the airflow a lot. Sometimes when it's too loose the cap just sticks firmly to the tip and the airflow suffers. And that's why I don't get why the new captive caps are designed like this to have a loose fit and why most induction heaters rely on a push switch to fire.
In order to have optimal airflow you need a rather tight fitting cap (forget pulling it off with a magnet) and carefull placement when putting it on so that you get the best airflow. You should try it with airport closed of course so you can be able to judge how the airflow under the cap is.
I find vapcap hits the best, over and over again, with a closed airport, carefull placement of a tight fitting cap and slow mouth to lung hits. French kiss these babies cause they love it!
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
It has what looks like an indent on both the left and right side of the cap. The cvap doesn't have anything like this on the cap it is just round. I am not sure if those indents are the flat faces you are talking about?

Sorry I mis-spoke and changed 'cap' to 'tip' The tip should be an octagonal shape or maybe 10 sides. They replaced the grooves of the previous generations with the n-gon style. If for some reason your tip is round, I can see it not drawing well. Somehow that would be a serious outlier.

IME since the first vapcaps, slightly different placement of the cap even by a bit can alter the airflow a lot. Sometimes when it's too loose the cap just sticks firmly to the tip and the airflow suffers. And that's why I don't get why the new captive caps are designed like this to have a loose fit and why most induction heaters rely on a push switch to fire.
In order to have optimal airflow you need a rather tight fitting cap (forget pulling it off with a magnet) and carefull placement when putting it on so that you get the best airflow. You should try it with airport closed of course so you can be able to judge how the airflow under the cap is.
I find vapcap hits the best, over and over again, with a closed airport, carefull placement of a tight fitting cap and slow mouth to lung hits. French kiss these babies cause they love it!

I've noticed that the clicker in an '18-M can block airflow. I'd be drawing on the cap and on the first click things suddenly got way more restrictive. I deduced that the clicker in the cold state actually cups the bowl adding yet another restriction. '19 doesn't do this due to the crenellations. My little "S" spacer took care of that rather than filing the '18 tip.
 
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kronicking

New Member
I think you are onto something because I just tightened the cap and put it right near the top and get good airflow. I feel like it was supposed to be made so you don't have to have it that tight as on the videos I see people using the magnet to remove the cap but I guess I can deal with not being able to do that.

on the 2020m the tip has flat spots but they aren't too flat pretty smooth but definitely is slightly flat. On the cvap there is no flat spots at all.
 
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TommyDee

Vaporitor
Ah, yes, the C-Vap is an earlier blem version. Probably a '19 or maybe even an '18 or '17. The fact that you are experiencing the same with both probably says it is 'normal' or within the range of normal.

Once you figure this out, you'll understand what it took. I got mine worked out to the point where I was looking for a better vape and now I am satisfied by having the VapCap. I have a lot of Magic Flight stuff but I'll grab the VC first. I would not have said that a month ago.

Looking forward to getting my '20-M. I am looking forward to seeing if the bowl-selector will do what the reversed CCD did.
 

kronicking

New Member
I can't really say I am experiencing the same with both as the cvap is almost no airflow if none at all but the 2020m at least I can still breath but just really slowly. Thank you all for the responses by the way.

I don't know if anyone will see anything but I thought maybe I would add some pictures in case there is something that is noticeable.
Pic 1 is cvap cap
pic 2 cvap inside tip
pic 3 2020m captive cap
pic 4 2020m captive cap indent
pic 5 2020m inside tip


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TommyDee

Vaporitor
That is a '19 C-Vap you got. Turn the CCD over and put it back in with a 5/16" tube if you got one. I promise you it will improve the C-Vap.

I suspect the same with the '20. Bottom line is that air bleeds in gobs with only a small crack. The cap is restrictive but nothing like plant bits covering the screen. When I reversed the CCD, I opened up a lot more area including air coming in from the inner walls of the cap. That is why I recommended resetting the CCD to the smaller bowl and see if that improved the flow. The cap could be a red herring.
 

kronicking

New Member
i am pretty sure the ccd is the screen correct? If it is I don't understand why flipping it over would change anything if I get no airflow restriction without any herb and the cap off?
 
kronicking,

TommyDee

Vaporitor
CCD=screen, yes.

Look at the edges where the holes are. Normally they would lay flat on the bevel in the bottom of the bowl.

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Most people are perfectly happy with their VapCap. They have a technique that works for them. I am only addressing those what don't like their current airflow. I can say as fact that this makes a huge difference for me.
 

LabPong

Well-Known Member
@LabPong - yes, you can use a lower voltage brick to reduce the Caldron's output. Try to stay over 8 volts. 2s 18650, 7.2-8.4 volts, is a very tame IH.

I haven't played with rheostats yet. You might be dropping as much as 50 watts across the device.

The manufacture changed the PS used on the Caldron just recently....now it runs hot like this so it is closer to the PS mini he said. This is why I see such a big difference to my Jarhead from 2017.
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
IME since the first vapcaps, slightly different placement of the cap even by a bit can alter the airflow a lot. Sometimes when it's too loose the cap just sticks firmly to the tip and the airflow suffers. And that's why I don't get why the new captive caps are designed like this to have a loose fit and why most induction heaters rely on a push switch to fire.
In order to have optimal airflow you need a rather tight fitting cap (forget pulling it off with a magnet) and carefull placement when putting it on so that you get the best airflow. You should try it with airport closed of course so you can be able to judge how the airflow under the cap is.
I find vapcap hits the best, over and over again, with a closed airport, carefull placement of a tight fitting cap and slow mouth to lung hits. French kiss these babies cause they love it!

You hit on something I’ve asked in the past, most likely not a property worded question.

I’m new to VC’s, and was under the impression that the cap always was placed flush to the tip, and airflow was coming through the cutouts on the tip, then through the curved cutouts on the tip tops edges. (I’m leaving the Airport/carb out of this) I read just one poster, that said he didn’t put the cap on fully, and used his fingernail in one of the last grooves on the tip as a reference point stopper when he pushed the cap on, leaving a small air gap. This intrigued me as having the cap not flush with the tip would certainly let more air into the tip.

But, at least in this thread I haven’t seen much else on alternative cap positioning, so I assumed it was not popular for whatever reasons.

But, as you brought up, not having the cap flush to the tip, would not work, once you push the VC into most IH heaters, the cap will immediately be pushed flush to the tip again.
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
@LabPong

Yes. Lower power bricks can act like current limiters effectively lowering the voltage during high current draws. This is hard on those supplies because they are not designed for current limiting. The saving grace is the low duty cycle of heating a VC.

My first setup had really crappy wiring and delivered only 10 volts to the IH. It worked the way I wanted. Since I've built the variable voltage brick. I can deliver 12 volts at the IH without issue. The IH is a lot hotter now knocking 2-3 seconds off an 11 second heat time from the 10 volt wiring. I have my depth of the VC set very deep so the clicker is delayed. This makes the chamber hotter while it is moving the heat toward the clicker.

BTW; didn't you say you are running a Ti tip and a low temp cap? I only have stainless to test. Ti apparently heats up faster and of course, low temp caps click faster. Perfect storm.

Having gotten a peek into the Apollo 2 was nice. That is indeed a lot less power than the standard issue ZVS 120 watt units. I definitely don't have that much patience :uhh:

@RustyOldNail - you forgot this second one :nod:

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Now this is interesting. I ordered my '20-M when the 4:19 sale started. Had it ordered by 4:35. Got a receipt saying $60 for the '20-M. Now I've got a shipping memo with the full price of $75 on it. I hope I'm not going to have a credit card problem over this. Anyone else notice this on their shipping notice?
 
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Siebter

Less soul, more mind
But, as you brought up, not having the cap flush to the tip, would not work, once you push the VC into most IH heaters, the cap will immediately be pushed flush to the tip again.

I think one could see the flush cap pretty much as a default. If the draw seems too tight, one might want to play with the airport a bit. Because a fully closed airport during an entire hit is actually not a default anyway.

 
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