Dynavap VapCap
- Thread starter Fenton Mewley
- Start date
vandalizedbythelotus
Well-Known Member
this heating method will tame any IH (within reason) and give better results closer to a single flame.
the idea is to extend the heating time because past a certain point (a few seconds matter) it becomes too fast for even thorough cooking.
and because the temp indicator is in the cap, which is separate from the actual oven which holds the material, giving the system time to balance will make for a more accurate click.
Last edited:
LabPong
Well-Known Member
Which tip...which cap...which induction heater.......too many variables not shown here for your assumption. But in general it is true....not with all IH's though. Some are not as hot...some click in periods over 9 seconds....some click in 2 seconds!
vandalizedbythelotus
Well-Known Member
any tip/cap/IH ... aim for let's say 10-15s for TI and 15-20s for SS heating time from cold to click.
this gives components time to heat transfer and make those variables less relevant to the end result.
2s seems way too short. i used the same components in my heaters. i suspect besides the coil being on the tighter side, there might be the issue of incorrect depth insertion. you want the middle of the bowl segment to align with the middle segment of the coil.
Last edited:
vandalizedbythelotus
Well-Known Member
you should def not combust if you use pulse heating method ...
i'm saying lengthen the heating time to 10-15s up to the click, by using the pulse heating technique shown in the video. you can experiment with timings.
LabPong
Well-Known Member
With a 3 second heat up time.....way too hard to go that long with that many micro heats.....
With my Jarhead or Skeletor...they have a 9 second heat up....I can do it easily though.
vandalizedbythelotus
Well-Known Member
i agree 9s is reasonable and 3s is too short, but maybe there's an easy fix.
i'm just saying IMHO those are the shortest steps you can try towards a desirable outcome without a return:
make sure the bottom stopper/button is set to correctly align the coil to the bowl mid sections when pressed in.
pulse heating: 1s in 2s out: repeat until click
i'm just saying IMHO those are the shortest steps you can try towards a desirable outcome without a return:
make sure the bottom stopper/button is set to correctly align the coil to the bowl mid sections when pressed in.
pulse heating: 1s in 2s out: repeat until click
LabPong
Well-Known Member
and that right there defeats my reason to use a IH...lol Id rather just torch it than play tag with the IH
I prefer my IH use to be a mindless and wonderful easy experience....push it in...it clicks ...i decide if i need to go .5 or 2 seconds after click......pull.....draw.....done deal with the hit.
Repeat as necessary.....
StringTheorista
Well-Known Member
If he engineered a spinning cover for that yellow thing, that let you expose a single hole at a time and clicked in place so it stays closed, you could use it to carry 5 premeasured cap-fills (or 5 dosing cartridges for the ONE/Fury 2).
And you could backfill with ABV
vandalizedbythelotus
Well-Known Member
oh i totally get that. however IMHO current heaters are all 1st gen or 2nd gen devices, adapted for dynavap use, more or less adequately tuned, with/without extra features. the cauldron is barebones and yours seems to have issues.and that right there defeats my reason to use a IH...lol Id rather just torch it than play tag with the IH
I prefer my IH use to be a mindless and wonderful easy experience....push it in...it clicks ...i decide if i need to go .5 or 2 seconds after click......pull.....draw.....done deal with the hit.
Repeat as necessary.....
if you ask me, the ideal IH for Dynavap needs PWM (innate pulse heating if you will), Temp settings with visual indicator, and maybe adjustable heating time and insertion depth and detection. if it also has to be custom built from scratch, reliable and durable that's a tall order indeed. and battery tech still sucks. i can see why we don't have one yet on the market. especially when a torch is so cheap and performs so well.
i will say tho i still find it easier to pulse IH one handed than to use a torch which takes 2 hands + eye coordination.
AcidFlashbang
Well-Known Member
That 'other' is water. Everclear is an azeotrope. By the way if you can find spirytus in your liquor stores, it's the same as everclear but much cheaper.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Good to know @AcidFlashbang - I have a 1/5th going on 3 years now and still enough for one more. Basically 2 shots for a clean grinder.
Same nasty smell or is it different?
Same nasty smell or is it different?
AcidFlashbang
Well-Known Member
Jeez I dont remember well enough to say lol (we weren't drinking them); I think they were rather similar. After all, 95% alcohol has a rather pungent odor in and of itself.
cybrguy
Putin is a War Criminal
I don't know if you noticed that this was the 50 thousandth post in this thread...Way cool of you George! Thanks
LabPong
Well-Known Member
not PO'd...... but i do not want to add something to the circuit like that.....its bad enough I have a laptop brick in there now. lol
But I understand that is is something that can be done with rheostat or the like. Im just surprised that the Caldron is so radically different than the Jarhead and Skeletors. Have not tried a PSM to know if that one is like this as well. Wondering if I could get a new brick with less output possibly.
I have no idea if my Caldron is acting normal or not....only that Pipes mentioned his #1 question about it is how to make it heat slower. Which is the mechanical way to move the tip higher slightly. I did that...maybe 2mm. Got 1 more second out of it....3-4 sec heat time now.
I have been using his past designs for almost almost 3 years now and was not prepared for such a change...if the Caldron I have is normal. Anyway taking my issue here to the proper thread now.
Last edited: