seki

Well-Known Member
I bought an M from pui last week and it’s cap is numbered

What does your cap look like after heating? Any discolouration at all?

I mean that’s the whole point of the vapcap click is to tell you its up to temperature right?
so I’m not sure why you would need to go so far past that.

Interesting though I’m curious to hear others’ experiences on this.

My experience is exactly the same as yours. I received my Portside Mini around mid-January this year, and I can go two or more seconds past the click on the first heat cycle, but in subsequent cycles, it will definitely combust if heat past the click for more than a second.
 
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CanadianBakin

Well-Known Member
I mean that’s the whole point of the vapcap click is to tell you its up to temperature right?
so I’m not sure why you would need to go so far past that.

Interesting though I’m curious to hear others’ experiences on this.

Each generation of the tip behaves differently in an induction heater. The 4G and 7-fin LE, I definitely respect the click. With the 5G and 6G, I can go a bit past to get a good hit. M tips are different, too. FWIW, each of the induction heaters I've used (Skeletor, Portside, PSMini, Jarhead) are slightly different as well. And each cap, for that matter.

I don't think of the click as an exact thing, it's more to let you know you're in the ballpark.
 

MAbud

Well-Known Member
If I go past the click using my IH with flower it’ll almost always combust...at least on the second hit.

With the coil I go about 2 seconds past the click and have been getting great results.


Same for me. I still very close to the click with my @Pipes IH. Maybe a second or two at most and mostly right at it. I get big clouds. 3-4 seconds would be combust levels for me
 

muunch

hotboxing the cockpit
I use the re-run of the 7fin LE tips, and even directly AT the click, on my 2nd cycle with my PSM heater, the load gets a bit roasty (for flowers)... I have a bit more leniency on the first cycle for sure.

I'm trying to just go to the first double-click now, and adopt @phattpiggie dip-n-sip technique, because that roasted, "did I combust???" flavor is not something I'm trying to taste once a load, let alone ever.

edit:

I agree that every cap/tip/heater is different, and same with flame heatings. We all also have our own preferences in regards to how vaped/roasty we like our flower to taste.
 

phattpiggie

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
@muunch make sure the load is tamped back by a mm or 2. The clicker gets hot and will scorch the surface of the weed.

I've found Ti needs 0-2 seconds and SS is 3-4 after the click on my first cycle with weed.
SS, shatter and cotton I've been going 6-7 seconds after the click.

It's pushing the cotton a bit but that's not going to matter with a coil.

@Chandler I think everyone is in the same boat. There's no UK stock that I've seen yet.
 

phattpiggie

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
@Chandler hardly humongous. I'm a lightweight this is an average size piece for me. I'll get pictures and a video of my next bowl.
20180916-204649.jpg
 

Ramahs

Fucking Combustion (mostly) Since February 2017
I’m curious to hear others’ experiences on this.

I usually go 2-3 seconds past the click on the first couple of heat cycles, then 1-2 seconds past the click for the next couple of heat cycles, then only a second to 1.5 seconds past the click for the next 2-3 heat cycles till vapor production finally disappears.
 

mrb

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
George suggested that using the dynacoil we should still follow the clicks. I haven't had any luck doing that.

George was referring to heating with a lighter. With a lighter you can concentrate the heat lower down the cap, towards the digger, and get a higher temperature click.
So a higher temp while still respecting the click.

With an IH this is not typically possible because they come with a limited depth to stick the tip into.

I've been wondering if the DV IH will have a solution for this..
 

sirwalter

Well-Known Member
George was referring to heating with a lighter. With a lighter you can concentrate the heat lower down the cap, towards the digger, and get a higher temperature click.
So a higher temp while still respecting the click.

With an IH this is not typically possible because they come with a limited depth to stick the tip into.

I've been wondering if the DV IH will have a solution for this..

I'm referring to both the torch and the induction heater. I find that I need to go past the click to get decent results. Even a torch at the base of the cap. I can get some nice results, just not following George's instructions. In my experience the dynacoil would benefit from a cap that clicks a little hotter.

Anyone have any luck using the dynacoil in an older tip? I can't get it to fit any of my older ones, atleast not easily.
 
sirwalter,
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stark1

Lonesome Planet
I'm referring to both the torch and the induction heater. I find that I need to go past the click to get decent results. Even a torch at the base of the cap. I can get some nice results, just not following George's instructions. In my experience the dynacoil would benefit from a cap that clicks a little hotter.

Anyone have any luck using the dynacoil in an older tip? I can't get it to fit any of my older ones, atleast not easily.


You may be on to something, with the hotter cap? :tup:
 

analytika

Well-Known Member
George was referring to heating with a lighter. With a lighter you can concentrate the heat lower down the cap, towards the digger, and get a higher temperature click.
So a higher temp while still respecting the click.

With an IH this is not typically possible because they come with a limited depth to stick the tip into.

I've been wondering if the DV IH will have a solution for this..
My ih has an on off switch, I can move in and out of the electromagnetic field and slow down the heating, akin to using a single flame or bottom focused heat.

Doesn't help much with the dynacoil. Still have to go significantly beyond the click.
 

KidFated.

Unknown Member
If you were doing a dab, would you dab at 385F like flower? Usually concentrates need a higher temp, and the dynacoil doesn’t have some exception regardless of what George said.. the dynacoil needs a little extra heat, and it won’t damage the cap I can promise you.. I’ve had them red hot to remove carpet melt :lol: it might take a little practice, but these things are insanely convenient.. the only thing that sucks is swapping tips flower and strips..:2c:
 

PPN

Volute of Vapor
Sounds like they all have their different times... just got to figure out the right timing for your unit.

Mine is one of the slower heaters, 3-4 seconds after a click for a good draw.
My Pipes desktop induction heater act the same than your and I use a first gen VapCap M with.
 
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Alexis

Well-Known Member
With an IH this is not typically possible because they come with a limited depth to stick the tip into.
Hi there. Actually, this may be adjustable, depending on the model of Induction heater. When my own Pipes Jarhead IH arrived in 2016, it was damaged en route. The plastic that was fixed to the underside of the lid and holding the glass tube and coil had snapped.

It wasn't easy fix to glue it back together onto the lid however there was something amiss with performance and after showing photographs to Pipes, he concluded that the glass tube has moved inside the coil.

I learnt that depending on how deeply the glass tube sits in the coil which is adjustable you will get a varying length of time to the Click and the longer it takes to click when the Tube is inserted deeper down inside the coil the further up the cap the heat is applied leading to a higher temperature hit.

When my tube is much closer to the top almost poking out the click is more immediate but yields far less vapour and it is more necessary to go several seconds past the Click.

And vice versa. So for the dynacoil, it may help to push the glass tube deeper down inside the coil to get heat further down the cap and tip.
 
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