Dynavap VapCap
- Thread starter Fenton Mewley
- Start date
Vaporware
Well-Known Member
I don’t know enough about how ebay works, but I’d think that just the fact it’s a counterfeit product should be enough to make them take it down without worrying about what it is...on the other hand, like I said the “replica” label might give them cover to leave it, or they might look into what it is like you said.
Maybe @VapCap would like to weigh in on it?
Otherwise I think we might be derailing the thread too much and maybe we should take it to the counterfeit thread if there’s more to say?
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/china-vapcap-clone.34455/
Maybe @VapCap would like to weigh in on it?
Otherwise I think we might be derailing the thread too much and maybe we should take it to the counterfeit thread if there’s more to say?
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/china-vapcap-clone.34455/
Hackerman
User
I don't have much knowledge about today's CAD CAM equipment but it's almost like they acquired the actual DynaVap CAD CAM working file. Either an ex-employee or some other way.
If they had actually studied it and copied it by hand, they would have known about how the cap works. It almost seems like they simply took a file and popped it into the machine and started pooping them out.
Why else include the logo but not even have it functional. Between that and they way they are assembled backwards, it's almost obvious they don't know anything about it or what it is or how it works.
Pretty strange, for sure.
rouxdy
Well-Known Member
I really do not want to derail the thread but I feel that I should make some notes ,after reading the last couple of pages of this thread .
First .If something is made in China that does not necessarily means that is of bad or mediocre quality .
Actually the 5-12 V ZVS I.H. module is made of very few parts .
The pcb itself is very well made for the job and does not to be gold-plated or having other ,
comin' directly of " hi-end audio " world ,qualities .
Most of parts are of very good quality ,except the two MOSFETS ,that Pipes does replace at once with higher quality branded ones ,for every device he's making .
Most of the available devices,especially the DIY ones , can be problematic because they are not actually complete devices,
but encased modules .
Most of times they might be lacking quite a few things .
Like good soldering job on the module itself .Or between the work -coil and the modules coil pads .
MOSFETs are very sensitive devices .They get fried instantly IF something small ,a tiny detail, a small fault was left unfixed .
For example :
You have made your new IH device with that chinese ZVS module .
You have also added thermal protection at the coil ,de bouncing circuit at the tactile switch ,a fuse and so on ...
And you power it not from batteries ,but using a power supply .
You plug the whole rig together and you test it .
It works perfectly !!!
How nice is that !
After having couple of caps ,you unplug the mains socket of the power supply unit
(your IH device still remains connected to the PSU itself ) .
You notice that couple of LED light are still on (i.e. the psu LED and/or the IH power LED ) ...
And you decide to press the button / tactile switch for one last draw ...
Guess what .
You 've just fried your IH device .
Because it's not a proper device .It's just a module inside a case .
No matter what other sub -circuit they may have been added for extra protection and stability .
It's not a device made and tested by specialists .
last time I heard that DV was testing version six . Or was it version seven ?
That's the difference .
Myself ,Pipes ,fluxerheaters and many others that might be building their own IH devices or for selling
can not compete with a team of electronic engineers ,paid to design and make " this device for that purpose ".
BTW ,there is that SJK device .
Chinese ,but enough well made .
Thing is that is not actually made to heat such mass of metal ,like a VC tip & cap combo has .
It's work coil is made of very thin wire ,wrapped many-many times ,while having a very short length (as coil,not as wire ).
So ,the operating current is very low ( higher AMPERAGE is needed to heat some metal mass ) ,
while the coil is made to induce a very strong magnetic field on a very small length range .
This device is made to heat small and thin metal objects ,like a scalpel or any other wax-carving tool.
At most couple of grams of metal .
A titanium tip with a cap is close to 4 grams ,while a M tip with it's cap is close to 6-7 grams.
Heating a VC with a SJK device will cause overheating of the work coil of the device
and /or possibly overheating or even failure of other sub-circuits or electronic parts .
It's not the right device .The work coil should be like the one the ZVS module comes with .
At least 1 mm of wire diameter is needed for the job (to " handle " the appropriate -high- amperage ) .
Over and out .
Back to the thread's rails...
Well, the thing is the SJK thing works. And for most people, buying something that does what they actually need it to do is more than "good enough."
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stark1
Lonesome Planet
FleaBay has had, and presently have vaporizers, and vapes on its site for ever.
It is PayPal (ironically, owned by FleaBay) which won’t let vaporizer makers and vendors to transact business thru them.
A bit of duplicity here.
Try paying using PayPal at DynaVap.
MassDrop used to have snazzy vaporizers on their site. PayPal blocked them.
Fortunately, as the old guard pass
, and young blood 
replaces them, the constraints will pass as well. 
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beyond6strings
Just another traveller in the Cannaverse
Fortunately, as the old guard pass
True dat.
rouxdy
Well-Known Member
It has a 5 cycle shutdown. I'm not an engineer, but I can assume that's there for the protection of the system. If you aren't bypassing that, it seems to me it's not an actual overdrive issue.
Dynavap have been aware of the problem for a while.
EBay has genuine VC's listed so I'm with @KidFated. report it as a fake.
If people buy them out of curiosity that just fuels the demand and more will get made.
George and the rest of us have built up a community of VC users and we should keep that going.
Boycott and report the fakes.
Even contact the suppliers and tell them to jog on.
I'm sure @paehtod could draft us up a 'go fuk yourself' letter in Mandarin that we could all copy, paste and forward on to the company concerned.
EBay has genuine VC's listed so I'm with @KidFated. report it as a fake.
If people buy them out of curiosity that just fuels the demand and more will get made.
George and the rest of us have built up a community of VC users and we should keep that going.
Boycott and report the fakes.
Even contact the suppliers and tell them to jog on.
I'm sure @paehtod could draft us up a 'go fuk yourself' letter in Mandarin that we could all copy, paste and forward on to the company concerned.
Never said that it does not work .
It's just not the right tool .Or the best available choice for the money .
Yes, but during each cycle the device is working under "overload" conditions .
Outside it's specs .
This IH device it's designed to heat metal masses ,shapes and diameters like these pictured :
https://www.google.com/search?q=den...AUIDigB&biw=1280&bih=895#imgrc=ynOcUZe5bwqvkM:
Of course it can heat a VC .
Likewise I can use my ordinary Ford Fiesta to climb a snake -like mountain dirt road ,at top speed .
But for sure it's not the appropriate automobile for the task .
Furthermore it's not a "5 cycle shutdown".
The actual shutdown is 15 secs of continuous use .
Imagine the overload conditions involved ,so that the device is shutting down after 5x heating cycles with 4x intermittent breaks (during which the device has the time to cool down a bit ).
The SJK is a - much cheaper -copy of this :
http://whipmix.com/wp-content/uploads/Heat-Zone-Manual_021318.pdf
Let us not derail the thread further ,please .
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Progressive health issues and I feel like a dog listening to a person talk when you guys get all technical, lol.
Summer
Long Island, NY
Yeah, huh?
Marlon Rando
Well-Known Member
New Shiny 2019?
A new Gen tip?
bring it G!
BTW Hard necks are coming along nicely, indoors this year
A new Gen tip?
bring it G!
BTW Hard necks are coming along nicely, indoors this year
2hrs
Well-Known Member
I'm going to get an omniXL soon. was thinking about getting an M too just to experience the difference in the steel tip and to try the shorter form factor and to have a cheaper one that i wouldn't cry over if I lost it or have to ditch it for some reason.
now i'm doubting its worth doing that...but I was looking at the builder and researching the "lego-ness" of the interchangeable parts.
I'm confused about the omni vs regular condensers and the interchangeability with M parts. Is it a bad Idea to buy and M just to try the stainless and small form factor and to have as "parts"? because it looks limited in ability to be able to use the smaller size condenser for anything other configuration. is that the deal with the M is the condenser is M only?
On the custom builder there is an option for a "stainlesss stell M stem up/down" Is this just a stem that's made to look like an M body, but cannot actually be used as an M? or if I had an M could I use the body as stem if I wanted to construct an XL with standard condenser and spinning mouthpiece?
I guess I was under the impression that the M had parts that weren't compatible with other configs? trying to figure out if I should grab an extra condenser/MP to go with these two for ultimate configuration testing setup. If I buy an M with the omni TiXL for the purpose of configuring around could I:
now i'm doubting its worth doing that...but I was looking at the builder and researching the "lego-ness" of the interchangeable parts.
I'm confused about the omni vs regular condensers and the interchangeability with M parts. Is it a bad Idea to buy and M just to try the stainless and small form factor and to have as "parts"? because it looks limited in ability to be able to use the smaller size condenser for anything other configuration. is that the deal with the M is the condenser is M only?
On the custom builder there is an option for a "stainlesss stell M stem up/down" Is this just a stem that's made to look like an M body, but cannot actually be used as an M? or if I had an M could I use the body as stem if I wanted to construct an XL with standard condenser and spinning mouthpiece?
I guess I was under the impression that the M had parts that weren't compatible with other configs? trying to figure out if I should grab an extra condenser/MP to go with these two for ultimate configuration testing setup. If I buy an M with the omni TiXL for the purpose of configuring around could I:
- put the TI tip on the M body and condenser for "Ti-M"?
- put the SS tip on the omni TiXL just to experience the SS tip with TiXL body cooling/draw customization?
- get a standard XL condenser and a some other mouthpiece and us the M body as a XL stem for this setup? (with either tip, right?)
- get an omniXL condenser/mp assembly and use the M body as the stem for another XL omni sort of setup? (with either tip, right?)
2hrs
Well-Known Member
@Gray Area lol is that an "all of the above"?
Gray Area
Well-Known Member
Skunkport
Well-Known Member
I don't if any of you have actually managed to make it work, but according to Dynavap -
Yes
NO - The SS tip doesn't work properly with the Omni Condenser
Yes
NO - The M body is not compatible with the Omni Condenser
The Beagle
Bubbles & Bags
Anyone else here prefers lighters to induction?
I had two IHs but sold both as I didn't use them.
Too bulky for on the go use, to easy to combust with if using a VC through water.
I had two IHs but sold both as I didn't use them.
Too bulky for on the go use, to easy to combust with if using a VC through water.
beyond6strings
Just another traveller in the Cannaverse
Last night I did something that may well become the norm for me with my vapcaps: tamping and stirring.
For the past few months I've been having an affair with a hand-made full convection vaporizer. Proper tamping is a huge part of the success in that vape. Too loose and wispy hits are the result, too tight and combustion can result.
Last night I used my normal straw technique to suck up the flower, but instead of just leveling the load I used a dowel to tamp it down. I did two heating cycles and then stirred and tamped again for two more. I got much bigger rips, and much thicker clouds of vapor.
I'm not a scientist, but it seems that tamping, especially with the vapcap, results in more conduction, but I'll let those of you who dabble in the science of vaporization chime in with facts. My understanding of tamping on my other device is that it aids most in creating draw restriction which helps amp up the heat a bit faster, but it may also be adding conduction to the convection experience on that device too.
For the past few months I've been having an affair with a hand-made full convection vaporizer. Proper tamping is a huge part of the success in that vape. Too loose and wispy hits are the result, too tight and combustion can result.
Last night I used my normal straw technique to suck up the flower, but instead of just leveling the load I used a dowel to tamp it down. I did two heating cycles and then stirred and tamped again for two more. I got much bigger rips, and much thicker clouds of vapor.
I'm not a scientist, but it seems that tamping, especially with the vapcap, results in more conduction, but I'll let those of you who dabble in the science of vaporization chime in with facts. My understanding of tamping on my other device is that it aids most in creating draw restriction which helps amp up the heat a bit faster, but it may also be adding conduction to the convection experience on that device too.