Dynavap VapCap

[Dynalowrider]

You may not be able to change the combustion point, but you can change the boiling point, (temp the herb produces vapor). Just suck harder. The atmospheric pressure inside the bowl sets the vaporization temp.
Don't believe me? Boil water at sea level then again at altitude. Pull enough vacuum, it will boil at room temperature.
Boiling point is the temperature at which the vapor pressure is equal to the atmospheric pressure. Which means the harder you suck the more vapor you get. Doc

 

[London Vaper]

Noel why do you keep quotimg me but not sayimg anything? You keep doing it? Whats up?

 

[MinnBobber]

Huh? Did you mean to say Herbalizer will do 445F all day long without combustion?

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Yes, Herbalizer 445 F for multiple hits and ABV comes out a perfectly dark brown with no charring or combustion.
VapCap does a marvelous job for its size but it cannot match such consistent temp control.

 

[Skunkport]

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Yes, Herbalizer 445 F for multiple hits and ABV comes out a perfectly dark brown with no charring or combustion.

No, it's not getting the weed to 445 F. The heating element might be at that, the weed isn't.

 

[Vaporware]

I almost forgot which thread this was we’re so off topic here, but at least some of this info is relevant to VapCaps...we should really try to get back on topic before @Stu comes to move or delete a bunch of posts though.

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Actually, there are vapes that can hit 430 and beyond without a chance of combustion. Herbalizer will do 445 F all day long with combustion. Newest miniVAP upped their preset temps where red is now 455 F---again, with no combustion.

VapCap is a great vape, but with its uneven heating technique the results are way more variable which means combustion can easily happen if you are not super-careful.

I knew I should have been more specific... @Skunkport basically explained what I meant, but to add to that I’ve used the FlowerPot as high as 777 on the controller with a medium ramping up to fast draw and no combustion.

Hitting the surface quickly with convection is not the same as soaking it in with conduction or slow-moving convection, so you have a lot more room to crank the heat without getting the flower itself to its combustion point (generally recognized as 430f, but somewhat variable due to the moisture content of your materials, etc.).

If you use the FP with a slow draw at those temps you’re almost certain to combust, and with a primarily conduction device like the VapCap you’d combust at a much lower temp.

So i just hit 2 bowls and i cant see what the log would have done any better. Next challenger is my 2nd attempt at the Sticky Brick Jr with a restrictor disc. Will the Brick dethrone The Omni XL?!? I will report back next week.

No doubt Vapecritics stream tonight will trigger the VAS but hes a desktop guy so usually he dosent tuen me onto many vapes.

I had a splinter, uneven avb, too much airflow for me and as ive said i like dark avb sometimes it was too light for me and id combust trying to go darker, my vapcap always even dark brown 2/3 hits its so consistent regardless of strain.

Im checking out now i need to step out the VAS bubble and clear my head get back to the real world because it becomes obsessive so gota catch myself before i start spending silly money. Im actually quite proud of myself that i survived this onslaught of VAS cuz in past ive submitted and spent soo much unnecessarily.

As for AVB color, I think it’s important to recognize that there is less connection here than people tend to think. Yes dark AVB is often well extracted, but depending on the vaporizer I’m using, temp, draw speed, the particular flower I’m using, etc. I’ve ended up with pretty dark AVB long before full extraction, and I’ve got as full extraction as I’m interested in pursuing while having relatively light AVB.

I believe the color is more an indication of how much the bulk of the plant material has been cooked than how much of what we want to vaporize has been vaporized.

Aaand still The HeavyVape champion of the world - TI Omni XL!!

@VCBud does rate some desktops highly, but they earned those ratings. Most of his reviews used to be portables, and I know he still has portables he loves, but it’s not an accident that most people who use both put some of the best desktops at the top of their overall lists.

You may not be able to change the combustion point, but you can change the boiling point, (temp the herb produces vapor). Just suck harder. The atmospheric pressure inside the bowl sets the vaporization temp.
Don't believe me? Boil water at sea level then again at altitude. Pull enough vacuum, it will boil at room temperature.
Boiling point is the temperature at which the vapor pressure is equal to the atmospheric pressure. Which means the harder you suck the more vapor you get. Doc

Yeah, the original question though was about whether or not it was possible to combust with a particular vaporizer, and as long as you can heat the flower to its combustion point in any device, it can combust.

 

[MinnBobber]

No, it's not getting the weed to 445 F. The heating element might be at that, the weed isn't.

.................................................................................................................
trying to get back on topic but need to answer:
The Herbalizer chamber is getting to 445F (plus or minus 3 degrees) as that's all figured into the "program".
Herbie was designed/ created by two NASA space engineers so dialing in temp "in the actual chamber"
was childs' play for them

VapCap could be probably be used with Herbie with the right adapter/joint. Set the temp and turn on the
blower to turbo heat the VapCap???

 

[elykpeace]

.................................................................................................................
trying to get back on topic but need to answer:
The Herbalizer chamber is getting to 445F (plus or minus 3 degrees) as that's all figured into the "program".
Herbie was designed/ created by two NASA space engineers so dialing in temp "in the actual chamber"
was childs' play for them

VapCap could be probably be used with Herbie with the right adapter/joint. Set the temp and turn on the
blower to turbo heat the VapCap???

Expensive ass vapcap heater

 

[Ramahs]

Did you make your own? Can you post a pic? ✌

No. I bought the basic parts from Pipes.
The main heater module was $30, and the harness to plug it into a power adapter (I was only looking for plug-in home use) was $5
If you don't already have a power adapter, one from pipes is $15

So, $40 - $55 + shipping.

I got lazy looking for a decorative wood box to build it into, and just put it in a grinder Box mone of my SWII grinders came in. Works fine that way. I've been meaning to order more parts from Pipes to build a couple more for other rooms into better enclosures:

 

[Gray Area]

You know it's time to clean your vapcap when you're spinning the thing to heat it, and a big glob of reclaim runs out the mp end into the palm of you hand...



It was the sencond of a couple of back to back bowls... in my (feeble) defense.

 

[Smokey McVape]

Well I survived my eye lid surgery. My eye looks and feels like I got clocked in the eye. Trying to get well with my VapCap. Doc

@Dynalowrider - glad to hear that your surgery went well Doc.
Now put your feet up, grab a cap and your favourite beverage and get some rest and you will be good as new.

 

[Dynalowrider]

I'm working on it. I have a big black eye, swollen shut. I had a little kid notice my eye at Walmart, I think he is still running.
My Water Wands helped with my T break before the surgery. A few drops in a shot of Jack, great sleep all night. Thanks for the words of encouragement. Doc

 

[Smokey McVape]

As ive said my portside mini i cant get on with it but maybe Dynavaps heater will make the omni feel like a whole new vape i cant wait till its ready.

@London Vaper - If you want to sell your portside mini send me a pm and let me know how much you want for it. I live in London and am happy to pay the postage!

I'm working on it. I have a big black eye, swollen shut. I had a little kid notice my eye at Walmart, I think he is still running.
My Water Wands helped with my T break before the surgery. A few drops in a shot of Jack, great sleep all night. Thanks for the words of encouragement. Doc

No problem Doc. I'm opening a new bottle of the old Jack single barrel tonight - I'll have an extra one for you!

 

[Dynalowrider]

I've been a fan of Jack since it was old No. 6, and it pairs so well with Jack Herer. Doc

 

[SaturnIII]

I got a small issue.. I’ve combusted 2 more times and that’s not the problem, that’s just me not being able to say “when”. My 2018 M has got the new grey O-Rings. So I’ve combusted 3x and had it apart to clean 3x and each time I try to put it back together the big condenser O-ring DOES NOT want to go back in the main body. After like 10 attempts I can get it but I’m sure it’s moved from its spot on the condenser. The o-ring is a little too big or something.

 

[Ramahs]

I got a small issue.. I’ve combusted 2 more times and that’s not the problem, that’s just me not being able to say “when”. My 2018 M has got the new grey O-Rings. So I’ve combusted 3x and had it apart to clean 3x and each time I try to put it back together the big condenser O-ring DOES NOT want to go back in the main body. After like 10 attempts I can get it but I’m sure it’s moved from its spot on the condenser. The o-ring is a little too big or something.

Plastic straw

 

[Gray Area]

I got a small issue.. I’ve combusted 2 more times and that’s not the problem, that’s just me not being able to say “when”. My 2018 M has got the new grey O-Rings. So I’ve combusted 3x and had it apart to clean 3x and each time I try to put it back together the big condenser O-ring DOES NOT want to go back in the main body. After like 10 attempts I can get it but I’m sure it’s moved from its spot on the condenser. The o-ring is a little too big or something.

The smaller condenser o (or x) ring goes "inside" the body, and the larger one at the mp end. I always dampen the rings before sliding the condenser into the body... bit of water, or spit'll do it

 

[SaturnIII]

I actually saw a few minutes ago, I had them reversed (in the wrong spot). Wow that was dumb! Can’t imagine why I thought the large went inside the body? Thanks guys!

 

[noel]

agree!!!

Noel why do you keep quotimg me but not sayimg anything? You keep doing it? Whats up?

sorry man, my bad, i am new here and keep on pushing the wrong button.

 

[elykpeace]

My bad brother. Misunderstood

The sale you are mentioning was to help raise funds for the CE, we getting closer but not quite there yet.

 

[Vaporware]

..................................................................
Yes, Herbalizer 445 F for multiple hits and ABV comes out a perfectly dark brown with no charring or combustion.
VapCap does a marvelous job for its size but it cannot match such consistent temp control.

My main point that if any vaporizer can heat flower to its actual combustion point it can combust is true by definition, and most options without precise temp controls or a low temp limit can reach that point if you push them, but after re-researching the combustion temp I see most people saying it’s ~230c (446f) to a bit over 450f, and some were recommending 430f as a safe cutoff point rather than the combustion point. Either I confused those two temps and remembered it wrong for a long time, or other people were also misidentifying it and I just got bad info in the first place.

I still wouldn’t recommend going to 445 without being very sure about the temperature accuracy of your vaporizer - especially because draw speed, flower moisture content, etc. can affect the point at which just about any device can combust a load - but I’d agree that the generally accepted range for combustion is at least 15f above what I said.

Unless someone has other info I should see, from now on I’ll assume it’s ~450f.

Back in VC land, heating for too long we can reach and easily overshoot that temp, but that’s why we should (at least to a degree) respect the click which is maybe a little lower than it could be but a combustion-safe temp at least.

(I know you know that, just bring it a little bit back toward being on topic.)

Oh, and I know now for sure that I’ve never combusted because I let someone borrow my M and he definitely did...smelled terrible for quite a while even after soaking in iso.

 

[stark1]

@Hackerman , D - 3. Armageddon?

Outer here.

I like my heat lo, and slow, please. Did ya say, MXL!

r

 

[phattpiggie]

Indian Summer kind of a day today.
Full SS condenser, Ti insert and as the body is only made from acrylic it can take an Iso bath if needs be.

 

[WoodVillain]

Questions....

In the Dynabuilder... if I put together a titanium spinning mouthpiece, with an omni body, and Ti tip... it comes to $135.... But... Will it include a condenser? It doesn't say....


Anyone using a Ti spinning mouthpiece on an omni body with regular condenser? Work well?

 

[StringTheorista]

@WoodVillain, yes anything you build in the builder will be a complete usable vape, including condenser. With the spinning mouthpiece it will be a ti condenser (not Omni)

 

[mucsusn]

Questio spacns....

In the Dynabuilder... if I put together a titanium spinning mouthpiece, with an omni body, and Ti tip... it comes to $135.... But... Will it include a condenser? It doesn't say....


Anyone using a Ti spinning mouthpiece on an omni body with regular condenser? Work well?

I freakin' love my three Ti spinning MP's. They take the concept of the spin to its logical end. Right up there with a Ti Omni, IMHO.

Spent the evening with one of my E-Nano's and one of my Underdogs...straight sippin' and water...nice, economical evening with a manageable buzz. But finishing off with a Frankentstein Ti Omni..Ti Omni XL condenser, first gen Ed's TnT 14mm Vong and a 7-fin tip. Through a great little 14mm sidecar. VC's still own my world.

Hitting the same Vong with a 14mm J-hook, also. Fuckin' sweet