DIY Bulli Vaporizer
- Thread starter Pipes
- Start date
hektik8625
Well-Known Member
maybe a porous fish stone above vapin donuts may do the trick ??=) they fit perfect in ceramic cups...
2clicker
Observer
@hektik8625, what cups are you referring to?
hektik8625
Well-Known Member
I have the Ithaka, not bad for juice but a real pita for coiling. You have to join a non-resistive wire to the coil. The leads attach in the lower level. Maybe OK for the doughnuts because they have leads.
BTW, awesome find on those pups. Do they get red hot? Was tempted to get the .75-1 ohm guys for fun. But no time these days.
Also, how did the unit work that looked like a T1 with a ceramic screen? Does the air come in below those vertical coils? Or are they just post holes..? I had found a single thick long vertical spiral with an outer coil and a smaller inner coil embracing a small piece of hard ceramic. No need for bright red hot as the heat is spread out more. I posted near the end where I stopped the herbal unit. Looks like a slide ride.
Tightly wrapped coils tended to give hot spots. BTW, still have and use that very Bull to this day. Very dependable.
Couple points of interest.
Those heating discs look an awful lot like the heater in the Solo. Might churn some ideas.
Also, I saw a post in the FireFly thread of the heater breakdown. Could also get the ol brain going on ideas regarding air flows..
Keep up the great work.
hektik8625
Well-Known Member
yeah they get red hot, I have only experimented with the .50-.75 ohm versions. Im thinking my next purchase will be a ZAPPER V2 =) but the donuts are definitely not the same as the solo, I GOT THAT TOO ITS MY FAVORITE VAPE, but that would be sick to have a full ceramic non pours heater in a solo =)
and for that unit with ceramic screen etc... long story short.... never tried it =) got the drip tip from thermovape though for almost $20 bucks! way too much in my opinion but its cool =))
The air does come through those holes below the vertical coils... thats an AQUA clone RBA =)
and in my little experience of building coils the tighter and smaller the coils the better, they should glow from the middle out. but Im still a noob so don't take my advice =)
i gotta check out that firefly thread now =) thanks again!
and for that unit with ceramic screen etc... long story short.... never tried it =) got the drip tip from thermovape though for almost $20 bucks! way too much in my opinion but its cool =))
The air does come through those holes below the vertical coils... thats an AQUA clone RBA =)
and in my little experience of building coils the tighter and smaller the coils the better, they should glow from the middle out. but Im still a noob so don't take my advice =)
i gotta check out that firefly thread now =) thanks again!
About those doughnuts being like the Solo heater. Adding some idea ingredients here.
I have never had one apart myself but saw this post by thesoloman which shows the Solo oven broken down. A rare glimpse indeed as it's usually all covered in furnace cement.
Solo Oven by @thesoloman
And these posts in the FireFly thread might give some inspiration.
I think this airflow concept could be duplicated to some degree in your set up.
FireFly Oven by @genericandorwittyusername
This gives an idea on how hard it getting driven.
FireFly Heat Video by @natural farmer
Fun stuff...
I have never had one apart myself but saw this post by thesoloman which shows the Solo oven broken down. A rare glimpse indeed as it's usually all covered in furnace cement.
Solo Oven by @thesoloman
And these posts in the FireFly thread might give some inspiration.
I think this airflow concept could be duplicated to some degree in your set up.
FireFly Oven by @genericandorwittyusername
This gives an idea on how hard it getting driven.
FireFly Heat Video by @natural farmer
Fun stuff...
hektik8625
Well-Known Member
whoa! thats so cool that solo oven taken apart =) cool!!! those donuts look like the ones I've been trying to source from china =) think I saw em on aliexpress!!
about the firefly! WOW! can't believe the coil in that =)sick!!! dude were on the right track =)
for sure fun stuff!!!
about the firefly! WOW! can't believe the coil in that =)sick!!! dude were on the right track =)
for sure fun stuff!!!
2clicker
Observer
ahh ok. i was aware of those, but do not like the polycarbonite part of them.
what advantages do you find these have over say standard RDAs? the cup itself?
hektik8625
Well-Known Member
I love the ceramic cups, or just white ceramic in general. conducts heat good too... was thinking...would a nano coil enclosed in a mini glass tube make a good heating element? its gotta be real mini =)
and @Pipes Thanks for the link... about a month ago I talked with a supplier that would send 10 samples for 50$ shipped.... I never did go through with it, but maybe ill look back into it.....
This thing looks real cool too -- google- Diver V2 with Grail....
2clicker
Observer
yeah i use the braided ceramic wick and really like it. its sooo easy to completely clean by torching it for a few secs. in fact i can load a dab on my coil/wick, vape it gone, and then lay on the button letting the coil get red hot for a few secs and the wick comes out brand new looking... bright white.
makes each dab taste like it should.
hektik8625
Well-Known Member
-ADDED TO WISH LIST =)
Pets-mart or other aquarium fish store. Google bubble stone and look at images. Do not use the blue stone as breaks down with heat. The grey is what I've read is best. For ceramic rods, google "ceramic rod fluval". Can find in same place as bubble stone.
2clicker
Observer
ty pipes! are there specific types of ceramic that are safer than others for wicking? how did the bubble stone stuff become a wick choice?
No problem. I only heard to avoid the blue stuff. In the ecig world they use a ceramic wick called FC-2000 which, again what I've read in other forums, is the same stuff. Just already formed to size. There is a video I found about using a dremel tool to cut your own pieces. Pretty much how I did it. Shouldn't be too hard to find again. Bubble Stone 101
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2clicker
Observer
yeah ive got some FC-2000 and have been experimenting with it for oil.
what are you thoughts on this? http://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Aquarium-Ceramic-Diffusers-Diameter/dp/B0050HJ7Q6
or these...? http://silversurfervap.com/accessories/ssv-accessories-and-gear/ceramic-flavor-disc.html#
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Salutations Pipes,
Still in dreamer zone on my side...
Lets suppose the switch is located near the middle section of the vaporizer's body, between its heating chamber and the corresponding power pack. In the begining i thought to myself it would be nice to have a LED indicator next to that switch, then i wondered... Since there would have to be some sort of assembly for a switch anyway why not make it a "SOFT" one, perhaps with PWM control and, why not, a temperature sensor? Well, i know: it's not going to happen for real but this would ensure protection against over-heating while contributing to the extension of autonomy.
But this is not helping, most definitely.
I'm still curious though what you have in mind for the switch as i suppose it must be able to take punishment from the relatively intense current involved. Sorry if i missed a passage explaining this matter.
Hey, I'm a new guy here, read the first five pages... I have to say I'm impressed. I hope that the opportunities to leverage ecig tech for our purposes only become more abundant.... This looks like a brilliant mod!
EDIT: Sorry for resurrecting a 10 month old thread... I just noticed...
I bought a Flowermate V8 on Massdrop for $50-something as a first vape, wasn't really even sure if I was a stoner or not. Well, now I am, and just starting a month T-break and I plan to be productive and come back with better tools.
The flowermate sucks. It's harder to draw through than a coffee stirrer and the efficiency is a third or fourth that of my friends DBV, and that's on a good day. The size doesn't bother me. I ran a half gram through it for a couple friends, one who'd never tried herb, and neither felt anything (but they'd had a few drinks-- Americano, margarita, and negroni each). I always needed two bowls (.3g+) to get to a [7]. Anyway, I am looking for something technically portable, on demand, and efficient. Stealth doesn't matter, it'd be for home use, friends places, or camping and my new kickass waxpen will be for stealth use.
I thought about selling the FM8 and getting an Elevape, but it's pretty expensive! So I bought a bulli-smoker A2-T and it should arrive any day now (shipped 1 week ago) and when it does, I plan on cutting up my FM8 and using it like a big PID-regulated box mod. It's good for 120 watts which should allow for a generous, complete lungful of 70-->400F air in well under 5 seconds, theoretically. I'm so excited about it that I had to post before I have even done any of this... I'm going to try to reuse the main FM8 body (except will probably chuck the swivel on the bottom) at least temporarily, If I don't like it I'll make something else-- I have access to a 3d printer but can't use those prints to cast metal parts, at least not yet. If I reuse the FM8 body I'll try to recess most of the bulli in the huge FM8 chassis along the straw path.
My only dilemma is placement of the thermocouple... Lots of experimentation will ensue but I'm confident that I'll have an efficient on-demand system when it's all done. I might be drilling it out near the element for better airflow, if it turns out to be inadequate; I'll test it with the thermocouple almost right at the element at first, I believe the PID cycles 9 or 10 times per second so it should be capable of responding fast enough to handle a good deal of airflow if the element can transfer that heat effectively... and with the herb relatively close.
I am ready to go with a pair of 510 bases, I got a normal and an auto base, still haven't decided yet (although the auto base seems fragile and I question its wattage tolerance) but once I get the A2-T I'll start playing around with it.
I'll report back when I have results, in the meantime, thank you for the inspiration! Seriously =)
So ~12 volts into a 4.5 ohm coil is crazy bright;
This bulli looks fantastic. Basically designed to be a convection vape. The fact that the tube gets pretty hot when you run it will help keep the herbs right below vaporization temps when using convection... perfect!
I didn't take a pic with it off, but I drilled out the spacer that goes over the element with the tank skewer for more airflow and to open it up above the element, I got 100x 20mm pipe screens and dremeled a couple to fit and bent them into a dome over the element, and put another in the mouthpiece... so I can load from either end! I haven't pulled herbs through it but I toked on some Nelson Sauvin hops and they were tastier than in my FM8, plus it's easier to load and seems to be a tiny bit more efficient. Maybe 15% more vapor/load? Great way to taste hops by themselves before dry hopping a brew...
About that flowermate! It had a metal bit in the vaporpath with TINY holes in it that through some major oversight did not have it's sidewall drilled out so it's a miracle I was getting any vapor at all, now it's about 4x as efficient and has WAY better draw. Here's a pic; http://i.imgur.com/AdvoPvW.png
I just removed that metal piece in the picture.
So I'm going to wait another 13 days until my T-break is over then compare the Bulli and FM8, 95% sure I'm going to scrap the whole flowermate into a box mod, try to drop the thermocouple under the middle of the lower screen, and go nuts! Even if that doesn't work the NCM prismatic pouch inside is great... damn tiny for a 120-watt rated pack, and it will make a mean and long-lasting mini mech box mod. A convenient and efficient portable for the home! For like, $115...
This bulli looks fantastic. Basically designed to be a convection vape. The fact that the tube gets pretty hot when you run it will help keep the herbs right below vaporization temps when using convection... perfect!
I didn't take a pic with it off, but I drilled out the spacer that goes over the element with the tank skewer for more airflow and to open it up above the element, I got 100x 20mm pipe screens and dremeled a couple to fit and bent them into a dome over the element, and put another in the mouthpiece... so I can load from either end! I haven't pulled herbs through it but I toked on some Nelson Sauvin hops and they were tastier than in my FM8, plus it's easier to load and seems to be a tiny bit more efficient. Maybe 15% more vapor/load? Great way to taste hops by themselves before dry hopping a brew...
About that flowermate! It had a metal bit in the vaporpath with TINY holes in it that through some major oversight did not have it's sidewall drilled out so it's a miracle I was getting any vapor at all, now it's about 4x as efficient and has WAY better draw. Here's a pic; http://i.imgur.com/AdvoPvW.png
I just removed that metal piece in the picture.
So I'm going to wait another 13 days until my T-break is over then compare the Bulli and FM8, 95% sure I'm going to scrap the whole flowermate into a box mod, try to drop the thermocouple under the middle of the lower screen, and go nuts! Even if that doesn't work the NCM prismatic pouch inside is great... damn tiny for a 120-watt rated pack, and it will make a mean and long-lasting mini mech box mod. A convenient and efficient portable for the home! For like, $115...
So I got an Arduino Micro, Melexis MLX90614 infrared sensor, and a variety of other parts and prototyped an infrared-controlled Bulli today... It works! Though, I need to adjust my program so that it runs analog instead of hard on/off with my MOSFET, and scaled to the difference between the pot-adjusted set temperature and the coil temperature as read with the IR sensor. Here's a crappy cell phone video, all I can provide unfortunately;
https://goo.gl/photos/Sw1VbdTPfykoEePy9
Like I said, needs some adjustment on the software side, but it works. And the sensor polls fast enough to be very useful-- more than 10hz.
This will all eventually be assembled into a wireless desktop unit with a whip. It's running on a 12v power drill right now-- and probably will in its final form, as well.
Thank you tons for the inspiration Pipes et al.
https://goo.gl/photos/Sw1VbdTPfykoEePy9
Like I said, needs some adjustment on the software side, but it works. And the sensor polls fast enough to be very useful-- more than 10hz.
This will all eventually be assembled into a wireless desktop unit with a whip. It's running on a 12v power drill right now-- and probably will in its final form, as well.
Thank you tons for the inspiration Pipes et al.
Hey @xenodius, good stuff. I certainly agree that the Bulls design is perfect for experimentation into the vaping world. Incorporating a light sensitive feedback is brilliant!! Making it work correctly will be a fun challenge. Using the FM enclosure should help.
I've had my Bull shelved for a long time but decided to bring it back for a go with one of my VW subohm designed mod handles. Previously I only had mechanical mods that could handle the power well. The newer high power VWs work very well. Older were limited to 15 watts max. New ones are up in crazy numbers.
Enjoying the Bull once again but temperature control is still mostly via user technique and combustion is always around the corner if you lose concentration. And is that not part of the game here.?..lol
Moving through this thread you will find there are two distinctive methods I have tried. First one was to have a vape that responded like an ecig in that heat up time is close to immediate and using like an "on demand" vape. Second method is to lower the output and allow a longer heat up time and use in the "on" state for the whole session duration. The second option gives for easier control and less risk of combustion. Initially, I wanted option 1 but found too hard to control and ended up using option 2 for 3.7 volt use.
Now that new TC technology has been introduced, it's time to revisit this puppy. In the upcoming weeks I am going to start to create a TC Bulli (temperature controlled) thread. However, unlike your technique of using a sensor and achieving a closed loop feedback method, I am going to attempt using ecig methodology with a TC power handle and NI200 for the heating element. This here is the unit I have on order. Along with AWG 30 NI200 wire, which I already have. I hope is to be able to go back to vape on demand style. In theory, as you draw air over the coil the coil power should increase in an attempt to keep the temperature as set. Meanwhile never getting "too" hot. E-cig users like it because it won't scorch their cotton wicks.
Once I get going I'll start a new thread. Providing of course, there is some success. I think there will be..?
In anticipation I have already made and tested the NI200 element coil. I used AWG 30 double twisted. (4 wires in parallel) Total length of 1 ohm, This should maximise exposed surface area.
The above testing was without the small ceramic piece I had previously installed in the inside coil. Might have to put back to governs the center from getting hotter than the outside, Which is why I used previously.
Can't wait for my TC handle,
Happy modding all.
I've had my Bull shelved for a long time but decided to bring it back for a go with one of my VW subohm designed mod handles. Previously I only had mechanical mods that could handle the power well. The newer high power VWs work very well. Older were limited to 15 watts max. New ones are up in crazy numbers.
Enjoying the Bull once again but temperature control is still mostly via user technique and combustion is always around the corner if you lose concentration. And is that not part of the game here.?..lol
Moving through this thread you will find there are two distinctive methods I have tried. First one was to have a vape that responded like an ecig in that heat up time is close to immediate and using like an "on demand" vape. Second method is to lower the output and allow a longer heat up time and use in the "on" state for the whole session duration. The second option gives for easier control and less risk of combustion. Initially, I wanted option 1 but found too hard to control and ended up using option 2 for 3.7 volt use.
Now that new TC technology has been introduced, it's time to revisit this puppy. In the upcoming weeks I am going to start to create a TC Bulli (temperature controlled) thread. However, unlike your technique of using a sensor and achieving a closed loop feedback method, I am going to attempt using ecig methodology with a TC power handle and NI200 for the heating element. This here is the unit I have on order. Along with AWG 30 NI200 wire, which I already have. I hope is to be able to go back to vape on demand style. In theory, as you draw air over the coil the coil power should increase in an attempt to keep the temperature as set. Meanwhile never getting "too" hot. E-cig users like it because it won't scorch their cotton wicks.
Once I get going I'll start a new thread. Providing of course, there is some success. I think there will be..?
In anticipation I have already made and tested the NI200 element coil. I used AWG 30 double twisted. (4 wires in parallel) Total length of 1 ohm, This should maximise exposed surface area.
The above testing was without the small ceramic piece I had previously installed in the inside coil. Might have to put back to governs the center from getting hotter than the outside, Which is why I used previously.
Can't wait for my TC handle,
Happy modding all.
Holy shit Pipes that's brilliant. Forget about IR, I'm switching wires and just building this thing up as a variac/TC box mod! I had no idea such wire existed-- the high-temp RTD's I looked at were all equally as expensive as this IR sensor, plus they take about a second to respond. With the element and wire combined, I'll be able to adjust the input power several thousand times per second. Mmmm =)
You just saved me from wasting a lot of time programming!
PS: That coil is very symmetric and pretty damn gorgeous =)
You just saved me from wasting a lot of time programming!
PS: That coil is very symmetric and pretty damn gorgeous =)
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