DIY Bulli Vaporizer

[Pipes]

Thanks for the compliment @xenodius. Cool your on board with the idea.
A small correction on the coil above. Believe it or not, that coil and all that wire ended up being only .2 ohms cold. So hard to measure that low of resistance. This is OK for the TC handle but none of my VW handles will work that low. (best one can take .3 ohm min.) I observed the resistance changes very noticeably while getting hot. Applying 3.6 volts the current starts at 12 amps but then drops to around 6 amp in about 2-3 seconds as it gets reddish. Ohm's law suggests the resistance is going from .3 to .5 ohm.

WARNING: USE ONLY HIGH DRAIN BATTERIES FOR THIS ENDEAVOR

So as an experiment, I have it attached to my Nemesis mechanical mod. Can get a toke in 2-3 seconds but have to start to using the power button as a regulator to keep from combusting. Once my TC handle comes in, things should get very interesting very fast. Things are looking very promising indeed.
I also recommend an additional 510 heat sink. Not only for heat dissipation but more importantly you can leave it on the Bull and ensure good contact. I found one of the Bull's weaknesses is in the center post height and these heatsinks have dual height adjustments for the 510 fit. Problem solved.
Here is the NI200 installed into the Bull and on the Nemesis.

The coil really fills up the space in there. The better the heat transfer the faster you can draw.

And the disassembled Bull.

I'm honestly getting really excited to get my TC handle!!! Feeling like I'm getting a whole new vape. VASed out completely. Finding myself testing this hard with manual pulsing the Nemi and can't believe the speed and vape quality. Once this thing has it's high end governed, it's going to be a winner. Hell, I'm haven't used my other vapes since testing began.

So the initial dream and vision of this thread is now becoming a reality. For anyone into ecig vapes, are carrying their handle and atomizer anyway, so this whole vaporizer, including needed power is only the Bulli section and can be swapped into play quickly for a puff on the side.

For those who are interested in how I made the coil, here we go.

Using the AWG 30 NI200 double wound. Meaning, I used a drill to twist two wires together and then used those wires to twist together again. 4 wires in total. The total length after winding was around 9 inches. (working on memory there) For the twisting procedure, there are tons of videos on the web. I did a loose twist. Ended up with .2 ohm according to one of my VW Mods. (The one that only works on .3 ohm min.)
So first off I wrapped a few wraps around a wooden stick from a Qtip.

Then inserted into a tube which had a slot. I just found this around but some tin wrapped around a nail would suffix for this jig.

Then I reversed wrapped the coil back down to the bottom.

Then I torched it a bit to get rid of the spring in the coil. Makes it less springy and more brittle feel. Pushed and pulled it out and voila.

And here it is with some power. Note that I have added the ceramic chip back which evens out the temperature from at least a visual glow point of view.

That ceramic chip acts as a kind of storage for the heat. If thinking about it in electronic terms, it would be like a capacitor. Slows down the initial speed but also delays the cool down. If that makes any sense?

Anyway, a couple added observations.
Using high drain batteries and can really tell the older ones from the newer ones.
Regardless, getting 3-4 bowls per battery, so in a word, fucking fantastic.... was that 2 words.
Using as vape on demand is hard to do. Always feel you have to finish the bowl......is this bad..?
Did I say I'm getting excited here....lol. Seriously, this is looking that good.

Back to testing..............................

 

[xenodius]

Uh, yeah, I'm on board-- I prototyped a 4-wire (Kelvin sensing) setup with a wheatstone amp and got really incredibly accurate resistance measures on my Arduino, too accurate actually-- not enough range. But then I saw a Sigelei 150W on Massdrop for $77 and I bought it. I'll use it for this, even concentrates, as well as juice... worth it. It goes up to 100 joules and is rated for .1 ohm elements.

I'll use the arduino to measure the resistance of the strain-gauge torque sensor on my ebike. Make it really bionic =)

Thanks for the coil-winding tutorial, I'll have to make one like that!

Why do you say it's hard to use as a vape on demand? Self-control? Cause I really want an on-demand vape for headaches. =)

 

[Pipes]

This is going to be a breakthrough...? Still using the Bull with the Nemi and found the method to use is almost identical to the FlashVape. Fire for 2-3 seconds followed by pulsing while monitoring the taste. Lacking the visual but shorter vapor path. Can milk it great now that I'm getting use to it. Actually, it's a little faster than the FV and that boils down to better battery life. At least that's what I'm getting. Hard to judge because I've been changing the battery after two bowls. Don't want to drive the charge too low. The charger is indicating the charge is only down by about 1/3, meaning I being over cautious.? Suspect I could get at least a couple more bowls per charge.
So impressed that have been shelving of my couple daily drivers.
According to the tracking number, my TC unit is now in Canada. Getting quite excited.
If it works as hoping and comes up to temp this quick and throttles back at desired temp as it should, awesomeness this way comes...

 

[Pipes]

Hey guys. Been experimenting with the new TC unit. So far, loving it. There is a couple bugs which I'm working on fixing and ends up I'm again waiting on another delivery of more element wire. So thought I'd give an update for those who might be following the thread.

The main problem which needs addressing is the temperature range, "most" TC mod boxes run at 100-600F typically. Trouble is in the losses transferring the heat to the load in the bowl. I realized there would be losses but setting the unit to max is just barely hitting vaping temp. Tried many different ways to fool the device with some success. Twisting Kanthal and Nickel together had some success in having the 600F max setting getting further into the temperature range. After much experimenting I ran out of frickin Nickel wire.... Anyway, that's not the preferred solution.

Easiest way to get it to work, but have to set up every time you do a bowl, is to warm it before the unit takes a resistance measurement. The way this TC unit works is that every time you take the atomizer off and put back on it asks if it's a new coil or not. Reason for this is the resistance increases as the coil is hot and the unit is asking if measurement would be valid. We use this to "trick" the unit into thinking the coil has more resistance than it does.
Example: My coil is actually .19 ohm and if I fool the unit into thinking it's .21 ohm I know setting the temp to 530F is perfect from start to finish of bowl with even brown ABV.
Procedure which I'm currently using: Put on the vaporizer, have it read and heat it for a second or two. Take it back off for a few seconds and put back on. Let it read and if reads too high take it back off again to cool a bit more. Repeat until I get my .21 ohm. Adjust temp if needed. Vape on. Almost like an ecig.
Note, once unit times out and turns off, the resistance is read again upon bootup so the .21 is lost til next "trick" is performed,
Note: For ecig usage....I'm hooked, no more burnt coils.

OK, the future.
1/Look for TC mods that go to 650F or better. I have found a couple but suspect it's because they are "directly" TI compatible.
I ordered one of these. Need two anyway. But will likely end up with more. This unit was my first choice but is a pre-order.

2/TITANIUM coils is the newest fade for ecig TC units. From the feedbacks and discussions I've read, they are compatible with the TC mods out there but the temperature has to be dialled back by 100F or so. Meaning N200 users that like 400F have to dial back to 300F when switching to TI coils. Good news for our purpose as that's exactly how much more we need.
So Titanium has a health hazard of off gassing if gets too hot. But (again from what I've read only) the temps needs to be 1200F for this to happen. Really bright red changing to white. Don't think we will be hitting these temps but have to mention it.
Some newer mods have TI as an option. They have the proper coefficient math built in.

3/Not Available yet? This technology is changing sooo fast.

So for now I have to fiddle a bit. But the future looks hassle free.

Happy Modding

 

[crazelee]

i read somewhere said TITANIUM coils hate dry burn

 

[Pipes]

i read somewhere said TITANIUM coils hate dry burn

This is correct but over exaggerated. The talk stems mainly from the fact Titanium does emit it's own form of dioxide when heated to 1200 C. (2190F) Check out the Chemical properties on THIS page.

So, yes, yes, yes, IT WORKS!!!!!!

The Titanium 22 AWG was the ticket.

Here is the resulting ABV before and after. In this case after and before.

No stirring and just go til taste goes south. Certainly not missing the timing and judging part of it. A true convection vape on demand.

Being using now for close to a week with the first coil I made from the Ti wire.
Not my best looking coil but works great. It measures .4 ohm.
Currently using my DOVPO as it functions OK for the task. Finding that the TC mods have many bad models out right now as they are so new, everyone is jumping on the bandwagon whether their ready or not. For example, the second unit I got, a Dolphin ADT50 and it is really bad. works til it's warmed up then fires full. Also keeps asking for an ohms measurement. Garbage.
Have a couple other units on order as need for my ecig anyway. Currently sharing the DOVPO between ecig and Bulli and I really don't care for the feel and weight of it. Giving both the Joyetech eVic VTC Mini (backordered and priced at $39 with coupon code "MAP"), and iPV D2 (in the mail, YiHi chip)
Will let you guys know if any good or not.

Finding setting up the unit for 440 F Ni mode and using the Titanium wire gives the actual heater chamber temperature of around 600 F. Interesting on-line conversion here.
So with 600 + F in the oven means there must be a 40% loss while mixing with the incoming air. So the user still has some control as well. Fun to play with. Adjusting the device temp to the point where regardless what you do there is no combustion would be the obvious goal. Or is it?
Here's some more good reading for those wondering about the TC devices.

My work is done here, I think. IT WORKS!!! TOO WELL?

Enjoy!

 

[xenodius]

Man, I finally got my Sigelei 150... it's awesome. I recently found out a classic love of mine, a freebase alkaloid extracted from jurema rootbark, is highly soluble in PG/VG. So I'll be using this thing as a universal spaceship, since my Delta2 tank can blow truly monstrous clouds. Should mask the mothball taste and make "popping through" outdoors discreet enough to be anxiety free (in remote areas, obviously). That's what I'm calling my mod, the Spaceship.

Problem is my spaceship keeps flashing a DRY COIL NO LIQUID error instead of heating. I need to find something to use as a heat ballast, I think, in order for it to work properly. I am rather envious of your coil Pipes, I didn't make anything that pretty... but I think I'll simply do two parallel coils, directly in front of the air vents on my mod, with a small piece of ceramic inside. If it's not hot enough I'll use your resistance trick or get some Ti wire. Great info here Pipes!!! Thanks for the inspiration.

Two questions though, been a while since I scoured the thread. Where the heck did you get that tip for your Bulli? I need something permanent-- I even considered 3d-printing a mold for a similarly shaped silicone tip, the only silicone tips I have are so restricted... I want to use a whip anyway.

Second, where did you get that screen you have over your coil? Does it actually keep bud off? I am having a super hard time keeping my screens in place!

Cheers =)

 

[Pipes]

Why thank you.
It's been a great ride modding this device to suit the herb users needs. Has ended up far exceeding my initial expectations big time. Mostly do to the TC technology changing in the ecig world.

Have never had a dry coil warning..? Maybe an option to avoid when purchasing an TC driver. I get "over temp protection" flashing while maintaining the temp. Maybe yours takes the heat up speed into the equation. just guessing. Try a thicker gauge wire.

The 510 tip I have is an old one left over from my Thermovape T1. Very nice, I agree. They have long ones which are close but not great. Have tried many. If you are talking about the adapter part, it's full name is "510 Drip Tip Adapter for Clear eGo Mega", can google for it. I found other interesting options when I did and looked at the images. I had gotten mine from Madvapes but can't seem to find it there anymore.

As for the heater screen side, it works fine for keeping the herb back. Also stays in place in a close to permanent way. Need to really give a push to "pop" it out. Link is posted a couple time back in the thread. I do remember it was a UK ebay seller.
Anyway, don't worry as I have been testing with a normal screen lately to further streamline things powerwise. I figure the thicker screen was robbing some heat, therefore forcing the losses higher. Find when using a normal screen that I can set the temperature down by 40 degrees F. So now running at around the 400 F mark and actually find the taste less harsh or should I say sweeter..
I'm currently using a good quality 1/2" screen which is ever so slightly too big. Slower bent the rim of the screen around and over on itself. Little at a time going around it 3 times before vising it flat. Making it a tight fit.pushed onto the top by laying the screen perfectly flat on a breadboard and pushing the barrel onto it. Flip and carefully push it down onto that very small lip. Still thinking/looking for a better way.

So post pics of your Spaceship. Let's see it fly!!!

 

[xenodius]

I lent it to a friend; I extracted the, uh... "Dmitri" (Looks like glass ) for a birthday gift for him and he found a pipe to be a bit harsh, so I'm letting him use my spaceship juice-- I wouldn't try to breakthrough on it but it works GREAT for "pop-ups", which he's been doing regularly. It's a great system; no need to worry about space-travel, really, unless you're next to red-hot glass. So it can be a solo affair. Most interestingly the onset is much smoother than with a pipe, you don't get that crumpling cellophane sound when you break reality.

Anyway, I'll try your folding method when I get it back and take some pictures-- I used tin snips before, and it was hard to get a perfect round but I got pretty close. I just couldn't get the lower screen to stay on the ring that surrounds the coils, it always got pushed into the upper tube. So I had to reseat every time. But I like the sound of your approach.

I haven't really fixed the DRY COIL error, but if I suck hard enough it goes away. Like you though, that wasn't hot enough to actually vape anything. But I turned my mod up to 110 watts, upside down (so that it was pure convection and less conduction, for efficiency) and used a whip with it... hot damn, I had been practicing ghosting but I wasn't prepared for that. I didn't burn ANYTHING and I had clouds after 10 seconds of toking, 20 seconds of holding... that was my one and only hit, but I vaped around 150 milligrams of 32/1.2 flower and it got me as high as I've ever been. What a beast. I got pretty good at watching the element glow and adjusting temp with airflow-- also, the nickel is intrinsically self-regulating anyway, this isn't a DNA40 and it only reads resistance when you first fire the mod. Frankly it did such a good job I hardly care about the TC function but it doesn't hurt to be idiot-proof. So I'll wrap a kanthal/nickel wire here shortly. I got 28 gauge nickel, I figure that should be PLENTY thick to heat slowly... Perhaps the problem is actually that it is too thick, and it's relatively low surface-area:volume means that it doesn't transfer as much heat to the air. Perhaps I'll look into titanium wire...

Hmmmmm! Thanks for the info I may nab one of those adapters! I have a few drip tips on hand, I actually thought that was a single part... sweet.

I'll share a video of liftoff when I get it back. =)

 

[Pipes]

Hey, got my iPV-D2 and it works great.
Couple benefits over the DOVPO which has been working like a charm. The D2 has lockable ohms measurement. This is needed for times when you have to swap out the battery while your in mid session. Since the Bulli takes time to cool, and the Dovpo reads a new reading when battery is replaced, the reading is a way off. Making you wait til the Bull cools down to use again safely.
Another benefit is the temperature menu is easier to access without having to push two buttons at once ect. Also can change in 1 degree implements.
@xenodius, I've confirmed that "dry coil" is the same as set temp reached or "temp protection" ect. The coils do not really glow at vaping temp so hard to tell that they are going. The AWG 22 Ti wire is the ticket. Both my units running for Nickel coefficient set at 450 F are hitting great with ZERO black with the use of the normal screen.
Think the Bull setup is pretty much defined now for optimum performance and ease of use. It's honestly like an ecig in it's simplicity.
I too was impressed by using it with the VW mod, (21 watts was my preferred setup), but once you get some Ti in TC, you'll see what my hype is about.

Above is how my screen looks. Folded downwards into the top by around .5mm. Note that it hasn't really seem any extreme heat. Never cleaned and don't think it will ever need be. It's been in there for over a week. The coil is also original with no cleaning after over a week. Some small debris but blows away.
I have officially put my other vapes away as this one fits all the needs in and out and about.

Also, if anyone who is honestly interested and have a Bulli and TC unit, give me a PM. I'm willing to make a coil up and bend a couple screens for you. Might stick you with postage, pending costs. But you would of course have to install yourself. This offer is for established FC members only.

Have a great Thanksgiving to all the FC Canucks out there!

 

[Pipes]

Man, I finally got my Sigelei 150...
Problem is my spaceship keeps flashing a DRY COIL NO LIQUID error instead of heating. I need to find something to use as a heat ballast,
Cheers =)

Hey, found the same happens with some of my experimental coils.
Seems different devices have different programming. What I think is happening is the unit tracks the time it takes to reach the set temperature and if air draw doesn't attempt to pull the temp down in "X" amount of time it shuts down. The "X" will be different depending programming as well as the action on what to do..?
Besides theorizing, I got around the issue by turning down the watts or Joules. 50 Joules would kick out too quick if I wasn't drawing immediately. 40 Joules gives me a reasonable time to start drawing.
Although the reasoning for thinner wire, as you mentioned, seems the way, i found thicker is better. Takes a couple seconds longer to reach temp but holds it much better. Also, that extra second or two helps the "dry wick" error. I'm in heaven playing with this and really can't improve much. Maybe fine-tuning would be the term now.

Here is my latest creation which is 2 each 22AWG Ti twisted. (Could not find 20AWG Ti)
Seems the more wire you can fit in, the better. I noticed the more element I get in the lower I can set the temperature. The only conclusion I can think of is that with more element heating crammed into the given space, the less losses happen in the transfer from oven to load. Any sense? This pup measures .12 ohm cold.

Looking at the picture shows stuff I normally don't really notice. Those screw posts for instance, have they seen enough pliers? lol.
BTW, it does take some manipulation to get it sitting with no shorts. But with this gauge at least it doesn't just burn out instantly and can easily troubleshoot the setup when/if needed. Well guess it could be a beauty pending where the short may be sitting. This is the reason why I always have the positive going up the center. Most likely any shorts will be on the outside and not as bad of situation.
Anyway, have fun all!

 

[xenodius]

That's a generous offer Pipes. You deserve more than postage for all your work. Great info and inspiration. I imagined that a thinner coil would be better, but now that you mention it, the opposite should be true! Just as you say! I think this is why...

I was thinking that the core temperature would affect the total resistance, but I almost forgot-- all those electrons are traveling on the surface of the wire. That's why stranded wire has higher ampacity for the same gauge. But that internal mass acts as the perfect heat ballast, sucking heat from the surface of the wire to slow heating and donating it back when it's cooled. The electrical equivalent of a capacitor. I am not sure you could perfect it any more! It's better than ceramics, I think. Also, packing all that wire in there means you've got turbulent flow in there, mixing the hot air and exposing it further, instead of laminar flow... even better!

I was able to keep the error from happening at one hundred joules, 575F set temp... but only when drawing air too fast to actually vape at. Can't wait to get it back now, and test a bigger coil-- wonder how high it'll go?!

I found some promising drip tips-- recalling that the vapor was warm when I was running this thing at ~130w (drawing quickly, so much vapor omg ) even with a whip, and that I may want to use this camping etc when the performance of a whip isn't that important.... I ordered that 510 eGo adapter you mentioned, as well as a couple interesting tips from Fasttech. They'll take forever to get here but they're cheap, and the glass one looks like it belongs on a cannabis vaporizer:

https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10009521/1841504-glass-stainless-steel-bent-510-drip-tip
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3019/10014777/2648200
https://www.fasttech.com/products/3019/10014777/2648100

I like the idea of glass, just had to get it, but I think the stainless tip would probably give cooler vapor since it's a bit longer, and also stainless... the second one has fins, not sure if that'll help but I had to try. I'll report my impressions of these three when I get my mod back-- I think my buddy is more or less done with it =)

I'm betting that vs a 1/2" whip, one of these tips with the TC dialed in could produce some very thick vapor-- I still got thick vapor with the whip, maybe not milky but I extracted FAST. Don't recall if I said, but I finished 150mg of 32% flower that was just plastered in trichomes in just two ten second hits!! That's better than desktops... or anything I've ever used... nuts.

PS: perhaps the best one, this 510 heatsink is 7x cheaper than elsewhere: https://www.fasttech.com/product/2404004

I will report back on everything asap =)

 

[Pipes]

You seem to be galloping in the right direction. Thats for sure.
I would avoid the metal drip tips. They get a way too hot. Search for acrylic 510 drip tips. Hard to get one that fits really nice like the Thermovape piece does that I have. Yeah, I'm smirking....lol
BTW, the double twisted coil is coming back off. Too much lag to heat while drawing. Works but one step back is better. 1/4- 1/3 ohm AWG22 Ti is still the winning sweet spot.
I'm glad you have interest @xenodius and will be following up on our PM convo.
Game on!!!

 

[xenodius]

Just saw your post. Do glass drip tips tend to get too hot? I'm actually not discouraged because I can just slip some silicone over the drip tip, it's actually good that it gets hot because my hope was for it to absorb heat. As long as I can draw fast enough through them, the vapor temp seems to be the limiting factor. I'm not very susceptible to irritation, e.g. vapor thickness, but don't want to burn my mouth or my lungs. So if I have a big bowl and lots of hot airflow I want to be able to cool it down.

Thank you again Pipes =) You should let me know if you could use any 3d-printed parts... I can turn a sketch with dimensions into a model fairly quickly, and the Ultimaker 2 I have at work is printing white ABS down to ~50 micron layer heights with a minimum wall thickness of .4mm.

One of the best uses, I think, is to make molds for casting things out of more useful materials. Such as silicone rubbers. Maybe I should print a mold to make a fitted silicone tip for the Bulli with a lipped recess to pop a screen into? Flexible silicone rubbers like high-temp RTV can be thickened with cornstarch, it's messy but it does toughen it up a bit.

I made an oven tamper for my Flowermate 8 that way. POS in comparison.. lol! Okay back to work...

 

[Pipes]

Glass tips are fine from the ones I've tried. Actually, I have the one you posted a link to. It's good but kills the stealth.
The problem with medal is it burns your lips. Not vapor temp but the physical metal gets very uncomfortable even with the length, the heat conduction is just too much.
Your offer about 3D printer to construct a mold to make a one piece firmed up high temp silicone mouthpiece is brilliant!!! Can you scan an object? I'll be including a couple options with your package to measure up/scan. With some computer magic to alter a couple measurements, a dandy mouthpiece could be made. Adding a rim to hold a screen ect. Love it.

Stretch the length and add the rim. I have a few of these as ordered when I ordered the clone Bullis a way back when. They are too short and also get hot on the lips as is. But would be a great starting point for a DIY piece.
Maybe a groove for an additional O ring for 14-18mm WT. oh yeah....

 

[xenodius]

Well my reasoning is if the metal tip gets hot, it's cooling the vapor, and if I put a silicone condom on the end I won't burn my lips and can get milkier vapor. We'll see.

As far as stealth, good point, though frankly so many people are smoking joints and what are obviously concentrate pens in public... I can't imagine I could have any problems if I make any attempt at discretion. 90% of the time when I'm outside I'm either biking or hiking and stealth isn't a problem for me there. Plus everyone is so open about it in Washington. I haven't been to my bosses place, and not had him bring out the volcano. In fact the theme for the second work party I went to was "Special", all the food was... well... special. Times are changing. Though we're not a normal group cause we're scientists, so... could just be I'm living in a bubble.

I can scan an object, i have AgiSoft photoscan, but even with a half-decent dedicated camera, it comes out rather poor on small objects. And it's *really* hard to modify scans, since none of the software I have can really work with meshes or convert them to solid objects. I took a mold of my ear and 3d-printed a scale copy of it with room for the drivers of my shamefully nice gifted IEM's that my puppy nearly finished eating, and it worked, but only with great trouble-- I had to blow it up and then sand it down to get it smooth.

Is that a standard size drip tip? I have a bulli to measure fitment from, what I really meant was the contour, aperture, overall length etc. that you would personally prefer. It won't take that long to make in solidworks, I print stuff at work surprisingly often-- last object was a clamp to mount to a stereotaxic micromanipulator and hold an intracranial crystal endoscope... =O It ended up ugly but it works great. My PI spent $160,000 on an in-vivo calcium imaging system and they couldn't provide a necessary component that took under an hour to make... Frankly I like using the thing, it makes cool robot sounds and it's a 3d printer, come on!

Last time I printed a 140mm wide part, it was 140.00mm... exactly. not sure if the extrusion is still so accurate, but I'm guessing there'd be no need for an o-ring especially since silicone has some elasticity as it is. I should be able to get a perfect fit. It's a cool machine. I printed a housing for an arduino-based torque sensor and a controller mount for my latest ebike on it-- this bike is only 7kw, my last was 18kw....

Anyway I'm rambling again. Let me know what kind of shape you'd prefer, I assume something along the lines of the tip you pictured but a little longer, perhaps? Any other accessories you can think to use it for?

 

[Pipes]

Rambling is good. Love reading it.
Well all this stem talk got me thinking.
And here's what I came up with.
$2 hulk of 1/2'' dowling.

Simple, and 100% DIY which give you control of length and even load size now.
Used 2 O rings(different thicknesses), one for seal and other for a stopper. Might add a second seal.. Just curved in two channels for them to fit.

Have just started to use. Nice air flow!!!
I rubbed it down with vegetable oil for now. Not sure what best sealer to use. Ideas welcome.

 

[jambandphan03]

beeswax mix with a bit of coconut oil ( or oil of choice) warm and mix, then rub in as needed. I used this on my log vape, when I had the HI. I just saw it up on the classifieds again, too bad I can't afford to get it back. Nice work on your DIY mods btw. I haven't been tinkering lately, busy learning glass, but I'm sure it will come back around at some point. Glad to see you still active Pipes

 

[Quetzalcoatl]

The cooking oils will go rancid at some point... I would recommend something like butcher block oil or what @jambandphan03 said. Haven't tried coconut oil on wood yet ( ) but have used beeswax to success. It was on my Launch Box which I use native mostly, and is exposed to hand + mouth oils.

 

[Pipes]

Thanks Jam and Q. Beeswax sounds like a great idea. Might hold off on the coconut oil though. I have put some stain on it. The light wood just looked too new...
Jam, let me know if the TC part entices you. You have almost everything needed. Once I have compared a couple more TC mods boxes, I can recommend the best of what I've tried. They are so slow to get...grrr.
@xenodius will be confirming the functionality of the Sigelei 150 before long. Curious about his findings there.

 

[Quetzalcoatl]

Thanks Jam and Q. Beeswax sounds like a great idea. Might hold off on the coconut oil though. I have put some stain on it. The light wood just looked too new...
Jam, let me know if the TC part entices you. You have almost everything needed. Once I have compared a couple more TC mods boxes, I can recommend the best of what I've tried. They are so slow to get...grrr.
@xenodius will be confirming the functionality of the Sigelei 150 before long. Curious about his findings there.

Re: this bit in a previous post:

"I noticed the more element I get in the lower I can set the temperature. The only conclusion I can think of is that with more element heating crammed into the given space, the less losses happen in the transfer from oven to load. Any sense? This pup measures .12 ohm cold."

That on the IPV D2? I have one as well and have enjoyed it but there is a limitation to it, that being that it can't step down/buck. If I throw in a ~.25 ohm build and fire it at 7 watts it fires hot as hell like if it were at 50 watts, because it can't step down the voltage of the battery (4.2 freshly charged). The fix for that is going higher ohms, I had a ~1.5 ohm single coil build and noticed a difference between 50 and 30 and 7 watts. I know for sure it happens with kanthal but am unsure about if it works that way with TC. Also keep in mind that the higher your ohms go the more metal you have to heat at a given temperature/setting. More metal = more thermal mass = more available heat for transfer. Further up in the thread you were using the ceramic bit as a heat sink, the thicker wire and more wire in the overall build is acting like that to a degree. I still haven't played around with TC on my D2...

 

[Pipes]

Good point Qman. Never tried the D2 with Kanthal but the step down part seems to work fine with Ti and Nickel in TC mode. I heard that these units have an initial full battery out when button is first pushed but then drops to the charted/calculated value from the measured resistance is feedback. Thus, making the closed loop feedback possible. Kind of guessing on this, but makes sense.
The D2 has a YiHi control chip which is "supposedly" one of the best. Why the step down has trouble with non-TC mode is a mystery or maybe non-TC use is becoming obsolete..?
The D2 also stalls out and states dry wick if there isn't some draw to actively try and bringing the temperature down. This is the trouble @xenodius was having with his Siegle 150. Hoping my advice on lowering the wattage and introducing a coil I sent him will rectify the problem. I had to lower from 50 Joules to 40 to keep from premature cut off.
Sounds much like the GH flow sensor complains, hmmmm. Suspecting very similar technology used with it as what's happening here.

My EVic VTC mini has finally shipped. Hoping for a better fit for the task unit.
Lockable resistance measurement is needed as is "up front" temperature switching. One degree increments would be nice too. Let the search continue.
We live in a great time, don't we....?

Oh yeah, almost forgot. I have gone back to single coil 1/4 ohm of so. The double twist had too much lag time and got generally hotter physically to the touch. Prefer the single coil. 5-6 inches of AWG22 T1.

 

[xenodius]

Got my adapter today, and just noticed you're... not using a stock bulli? Your chamber is a little shorter and fatter. It doesn't fit mine... Hmm! Either way, I'm still planning on 3d printing a mold for a silicone tip. There's just always something else on the to-do list.

Pipes, you could fit a TON of herb in there with that dowel! Cool!

 

[Pipes]

You must have the original A2 unit. I have that as well but found the stock Mega top (A2TM) a better fit for this procedure. You have a threaded top end as well then. Different adapter.. Original chamber is too long and upper portion doesn't get as vaped as the lower meaning you need to stir it while using. You can upgrade here.
With the dowel, the depth is adjustable. Have already made a couple more. Can make more O ring notches if want less load.
For anyone just getting enticed Complete Bull from OEM supplier....Not cheap but compared to other herb vapes, it's a deal.

 

[xenodius]

Yes, I sure do... hmm... you're right... I've been just filling it partially but I never saw the A2-TM. Perfect!! They have a 24k gold version, lol...! Bit too much bling.

I should get my sigelei back soon and can't wait to report back! Hopefully I'll have a chance to use it next weekend. For this weekend, I'll settle for the pax, hah!

Thanks again Pipes =)