Well I have gone back to the AWG 28 for the reason of quicker start up time.
However, before I get to that, I thought it might be a good idea to kind of make some better sense of this thread. I know if trying to read through it must get confusing as to what is the best gauge wire, voltage etc.? Well in a nut shell they all have advantages and some better then others with a major factor being on how the user likes to vape.
The wire gauges really works backward in many regards. The picture below shows the same resistance (1.2 ohm) in the 3 wire gauges I used in the 3.7 volt set ups. All of these work.
The thicker gauge takes a whole lot more material to make the same resistance thus takes longer to get to it's max temperature. It has the benefit of retaining the temperature better while drawing air over it. Good for huge pulls once hot. Also takes longer to get to the "don't pull slow" stage. Also know as the "turn off for a few seconds" stage. Valid for continuous "ON" technique.
Unexplained is the fact that this also results in a cooler external device.? (I'll take it)
The other end of the scale is a shorter, thinner wire which heats up itself very fast. The heat surge is governed more by use of the heat absorbing material and amount used. In this case a few types of ceramics have been tried. The thinner wire used the more power regulation via the switch comes into play. Units exterior tends to get un-touchable with this set up.
So many variables, voltage, wire used, heater placement/distance, screen type, available power sources, heat absorbing material and shape (important) and even intake hole placement.
OK, on with my new vertical heater. Here are the two I tried, both are 1.2 ohm, one is AWG 28 and the other is AWG 26.
I have been using both these coils and must say I like the AWG 28 (thinner) wire better. Can still use with power continuously on and heat up is like one whispy start up puff and just keeps getting better. Will need to turn it off for a few second break about 2/3 the way through, give a stir and turn back on for about 3 or so more pulls. It you want to blacken (char) it this is where it turns fast. Not necessarily combust but very close to it.
The AWG 26 takes close to a minute to get "fair" production. What's nice is just sit back and take your time and give a little wait between a pull or two can rip very nice but will need to step up the pulls near the end as temp will finally get quite hot but will be almost be done by then anyway.
Let's go through the AWG 28 re-build. First off I took the screws and bushings off for a good cleaning. Note the silicone bushing on the positive post. This is one I rebuilt from the insulating bushings I bought a while back. Links above somewhere.
Next I mounted the wire which I already coiled around a cue-tip earlier.
Note: I found it's best to always have a hold of the positive post while tightening in all the way. It's basically floating in the bushing soldered to a wire leading to the center of 510 connector.
I used the wooded cue-tip rod to help form and place the coil where I wanted.
NOTE: As a precaution I attached the bottom of coil to positive screw. The reason is, shorts will generally be around the top and in this configuration it will be closer to ground potential. As well as the vertical wire leading up to the top. Would still work if positive but more chance of shorting.
I cut the ceramic rod to be such that it just touches the screen when screwed into place. The last 1/2 turn of heater top I guide the center of ceramic to contact to center of screen.
It has been performing nicely.
Link to TrustFire Handle Thread.
Happy Modding,
Pipes