DIY Bulli Vaporizer

Egzoset

Banned
Salutations Pipes,

A safety note: Only use protected batteries in DIY projects as shit does happen.

I was about to ask... So, that feature combined to your filp-vape design should provide additional safety i guess.

:peace:
 
Egzoset,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Salutations Pipes,



I was about to ask... So, that feature combined to you filp-vape design should provide additional safety i guess.

:peace:
Yes it does. A quick tug and the device will detach. The 90 degree elbows stays cool enough to grab and pull to remove even while fired. I wouldn't hold on for any length of time but long enough to get it off and switch hands to hold the top by the mouth piece. With the TET handle the way it currently is, this is a must.

Now I realize the RCA connectors will loosen up over time and loose the current stiffness I'm enjoying.:hmm: That's the reason I went for the best grade connectors I could find but expect them to become a little too easily flip-able over time. Will have to see how time treats them. Although not the end of the world to replace. Also, going this route protects those vulnerable 510 connections.

As to the battery warning, the reason I posted was because of a couple incidences I had and posted in the Cera thread here.
Specially in using IMRs, I know they are chemically safe and will not blow up but can leak if over heated. They can also push extremely high current. Double edge sword in this regard. Great for performance but if anything shorts the battery will keep pumping out the current till something gives. Usually by burning the weakest or thinnest link. This will be the spring if no thinner gauge wire is in the circuit. When playing with DIY stuff one little slip up in goofing around can happen quicker then one thinks. Always treat these batteries with respect as they hold the power to be dangerous if mistreated.

Pipes
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Not a bad find. Might be a good back up unit.
First time I saw those particular ones. If anything like the knock offs I got a while back, I would not expect them to last through the punishment of many re-builds.
The other issue with the knock offs is the unknown metals underneath that chromed looking finish. Likely fine for a while and good for back up as the price is right. I don't think I would keep as my everyday vape.
Wish they showed the inside of it. Chamber screen etc.

It's good to see that they have gone to the pre-made herb part of it. Wonder what product they are cloning? Hopefully there is a product which is that idea but of know quality materials either already out there or soon to be?

Pipes
 
Pipes,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Well I have gone back to the AWG 28 for the reason of quicker start up time.

However, before I get to that, I thought it might be a good idea to kind of make some better sense of this thread. I know if trying to read through it must get confusing as to what is the best gauge wire, voltage etc.? Well in a nut shell they all have advantages and some better then others with a major factor being on how the user likes to vape.
The wire gauges really works backward in many regards. The picture below shows the same resistance (1.2 ohm) in the 3 wire gauges I used in the 3.7 volt set ups. All of these work.

P1050052_zps51d3fded.jpg


The thicker gauge takes a whole lot more material to make the same resistance thus takes longer to get to it's max temperature. It has the benefit of retaining the temperature better while drawing air over it. Good for huge pulls once hot. Also takes longer to get to the "don't pull slow" stage. Also know as the "turn off for a few seconds" stage. Valid for continuous "ON" technique.
Unexplained is the fact that this also results in a cooler external device.? (I'll take it)

The other end of the scale is a shorter, thinner wire which heats up itself very fast. The heat surge is governed more by use of the heat absorbing material and amount used. In this case a few types of ceramics have been tried. The thinner wire used the more power regulation via the switch comes into play. Units exterior tends to get un-touchable with this set up.

So many variables, voltage, wire used, heater placement/distance, screen type, available power sources, heat absorbing material and shape (important) and even intake hole placement.

OK, on with my new vertical heater. Here are the two I tried, both are 1.2 ohm, one is AWG 28 and the other is AWG 26.

P1050060_zps9ae662f4.jpg
P1050063_zps07ba8879.jpg


P1050077_zps6e4a6b1d.jpg
P1050079_zps2f5a3cdc.jpg


I have been using both these coils and must say I like the AWG 28 (thinner) wire better. Can still use with power continuously on and heat up is like one whispy start up puff and just keeps getting better. Will need to turn it off for a few second break about 2/3 the way through, give a stir and turn back on for about 3 or so more pulls. It you want to blacken (char) it this is where it turns fast. Not necessarily combust but very close to it.

The AWG 26 takes close to a minute to get "fair" production. What's nice is just sit back and take your time and give a little wait between a pull or two can rip very nice but will need to step up the pulls near the end as temp will finally get quite hot but will be almost be done by then anyway.

Let's go through the AWG 28 re-build. First off I took the screws and bushings off for a good cleaning. Note the silicone bushing on the positive post. This is one I rebuilt from the insulating bushings I bought a while back. Links above somewhere.

P1050055_zpsb8adf69d.jpg


Next I mounted the wire which I already coiled around a cue-tip earlier.
Note: I found it's best to always have a hold of the positive post while tightening in all the way. It's basically floating in the bushing soldered to a wire leading to the center of 510 connector.

P1050057_zpsd5570193.jpg


I used the wooded cue-tip rod to help form and place the coil where I wanted.
NOTE: As a precaution I attached the bottom of coil to positive screw. The reason is, shorts will generally be around the top and in this configuration it will be closer to ground potential. As well as the vertical wire leading up to the top. Would still work if positive but more chance of shorting.

P1050058_zps6d072abb.jpg

P1050061_zpsb2bbef8e.jpg
P1050062_zpsa17dee3b.jpg


I cut the ceramic rod to be such that it just touches the screen when screwed into place. The last 1/2 turn of heater top I guide the center of ceramic to contact to center of screen.

P1050064_zps862b6d92.jpg

P1050065e_zpsf9b0783d.jpg
P1050066_zpseb2728eb.jpg


It has been performing nicely.:tup:

P1050073_zpsf2803187.jpg
P1050072_zpsa0fdcc9c.jpg

P1050069_zpsf8166234.jpg


Link to TrustFire Handle Thread.

Happy Modding,
Pipes
 

Norlin

Classic Rocker
Pipes, could you give me some measurements of the bulli? You've inspired me, I'm going to be attempting to create one or something similar from scratch. I'd just go by feel, but I'm worried about making it too large or small.
 
Norlin,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Pipes, could you give me some measurements of the bulli? You've inspired me, I'm going to be attempting to create one or something similar from scratch.
Good stuff, glad I caught your interest.
Oh to have those kind of tools. I would never leave the shop.
I shall get the callipers out next week and take a few numbers down.
You will have to keep us up on your progress. Anything I can help with, shoot me a PM.

Pipes
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Pipes, could you give me some measurements of the bulli? You've inspired me, I'm going to be attempting to create one or something similar from scratch. I'd just go by feel, but I'm worried about making it too large or small.
Took the numbers down and should be fairly close.

P1050081_zps4fce6b2d.jpg


I think the base piece might be need further explanation. The 510 connector is pressure fit into the bottom of base. The threaded part is standard but the outer attached cylinder which pressure fits into the base is larger than standard. This is so the base sides are a strait cut machining for 510 to pressure fit in. (hope that makes sense?) Never had this part apart. If 510 fails I would consider installing an RCA connector instead.?
The upper positive hole size is the same as the center hole in 510 connector. This is so the same insulating bushing can be used at both ends.
The center pin of the 510 is soldered to a fair gauge wire. The other end goes to a similar post that has a screw threaded hole on the upper side. (earlier pic in thread) This is were screw affixes the heater wire.
Originally this base was packed with silicone of some kind which I removed during the bushing replacements. I believe this was to help prevent the user from twisting the positive post around shorting it out in the inside on unit. The post is bent at about 70 degrees. I always secure the base below the screw while tightening or unitightening the screw as practice now anyway. I also put a piece of shink tubing on the bottom of this post to cover the soldering as well.

Base assembly.
Install bushings 1st into the holes.
Solder a couple inch wire to upper connection pin and add optional shrink wrap.
Feed wire down hole through silicone bushings and out the bottom and position upper post.
Cut and trim exposed wire leaving just enough room to solder.
Apply solder to both end of wire and contact, then solder together quick as don't want wire's insulation to shrink up.
Push into place.

Be sure to use descent wire for this with not too wimpy of insulation neither.

Hope this hopes with your new project,
Pipes
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
^^Very nice.^^ Special order from across the pond. :tup:

I modded a Bolt for a co-worker today to have a lit latchable switch for use with his Bulli. The original switch was a typical horn switch.

P1050082_zpsa300757e.jpg
P1050083_zps3800edea.jpg


Talk about a tight fit. But he had already purchased for the task before I started to use the "leave on" technique. He's a little jealous of the TrustFire Flashlight mod. ($10 vs over $40)
No safety though, so if going to pocket it, the vaporizer should be removed first. At least the Flashlights switches are counter sunk.

Also, I did receive the UltraFire Flaslight I ordered a couple days back and looks pretty much the same deal as the mod for the TrustFire. Quality wise I like the finish on the TrustFire better.

Happy Modding,
Pipes
 

Norlin

Classic Rocker
Oh, Pipes, you're amazing. Thank you so much for going through all that time and work! I'll get working on the CAD immediately!
I'm just going off the top of my head, but from the way it looks it has little to keep the heat in, undoubtedly due to it's intended purpose as an atomizer. Somewhere I've got to work in some thermal mass...

Btw, nice job on that bolt, drop dead gorgeous.
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Oh, Pipes, you're amazing. Thank you so much for going through all that time and work! I'll get working on the CAD immediately!
I'm just going off the top of my head, but from the way it looks it has little to keep the heat in, undoubtedly due to it's intended purpose as an atomizer. Somewhere I've got to work in some thermal mass...

Btw, nice job on that bolt, drop dead gorgeous.
Your very welcome and thanks. Can I suggest you make the center piece with the screen already incorporated into it. Like bubble the top and drill nice small holes?

As for the heat, in 3.7 volt it really doesn't seem a big issue. Gets hot and can burn but can touch briefly. I think for this reason it would be the preferred mode of operation. In 6 volts momentary switching operation it does get very hot and can burn quite fast. Notice that not long after I went to 3.7 volt I took off the rubber heat shield I was using.

Pipes
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
A quick update on a couple experiments.

One is the heater coil.
I thought I'd try the AWG 26 gauge one more time. The problem with the first attempt was the heat up took too long and was just not as consistent for clouds as thinner gauge.
So I figured that there was already a lot of metal there already with the amount of element needed to get 1.2 ohm. I made the element the same as shown in the comparison pics from post post #105 above. This time I made the diameter a little wider and no ceramic at all. Still vertically mounted. Wrapped and adjusted wire around a steel shaft and removed shaft once happy with the orientation.
This configuration seems to work very well. The clouds are somewhat smaller but very consistent. I like this config for driving as very little risk of combustion and does not roast while not drawing at all.
Good for anyone having a hard time finding good ceramic too.

A second update is another Cree flashlight I made up for this Bull. This time with an UltraFire Brand.

P1050103_zpsbb556019.jpg


What's kind of neat with this one is that I left the front lens in and installed a white LED for the power indicator.

P1050099_zpse183e1a7.jpg


And selected a series resister such that it produces a dim usable light which adds to the stealth effect for sure. Also, can play the scary vaporer while vaping in the dark. Booo.

P1050106_zpsaf59df81.jpg


Another difference with this one is I left the inside top modification all mounted on the screw in plate as the top is only one piece rather then 2 with the Trushfire.

P1050090_zps506e0eb1.jpg

P1050096_zpsfddf16f9.jpg


Since the top insides screw in place I found the grounding between the plate and outer container is not ideal and causes unwanted losses. To solve this I have some conductive epoxy on order. This also makes it not the best approach for most folks as this (silver) epoxy is expensive and counters the cost effectiveness of this mod. Unless a different method is used for this design flaw, I would rate this Ultrafire handle a no go for most to do from scratch without an idea to solve this shortfall.

P1050105_zps6624451b.jpg


Happy Modding.
Pipes
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
The search for the perfect coil continues...

I have tried a few variations of the vertical winding now and zeroing in on the coil which delivers AND is as conservative with power as possible.
Here is a link to my album which contains many photos of my vertical coil efferts.
It contains successes as well as failures.

So far I have been able to get to power levels down to under 10 watts (1.4 ohm) with a single coil with dual looping. The idea is to help improve the cloud size from the previous coil mentioned in above post which has no ceramic at all to help maintain heat while drawing. But rather relying on the bulk in the metal from going to a thick AWG 26 element. As mentioned above it works very consistently and gives nice relaxing easy sessions. The downfall is the temp drops off quick once drawing and therefore the cloud size is relatively small.
To help maintain the heat longer I added a small piece of ceramic and used less then 20% of the heating element t wrap it. Used the center portion of the heating element as that should get the hottest. The remaining length I wrapped an outside ring of loops as should below. Now this is not an easy type winding and needs patients to get it right.

P1050195_zps30dbd8b9.jpg
P1050194_zps62786761.jpg
P1050192_zpsbfa3bbe0.jpg


Now this particular coil ended up causing combustion too easily but did show me that the idea was sound. I just needed to widen the outer ring to give more even heat coming up. The coil below ended up working best so far. It really looks like a water park slide. I used a smaller diameter of ceramic to gain some more length for outer rings.

P1050179_zps76b910c1.jpg
P1050180_zps42fb19a4.jpg
P1050181_zpsd25eaf44.jpg
P1050183_zpsb7d23b53.jpg

P1050185_zpsca4cfb2c.jpg


The idea is to cover as much air flow space the best as possible and still have a reserve of heat to extend the heat transfer time while drawing. Notice the glow is not that bright glow as before but find it doesn't need to be glowing a blaze to get good results. Also note the outside loops reside about 1/2 way between the center and outside rim of screen.

So far this has been working well and I'm getting bigger clouds then the previous winding as well as improved the power efficiency by about 8% or so. I'll take it. Having a vape operating under 10 watts is a very cool improvement as helps with overheating of device connections as well as being easier on the batteries.

The project continues,
Pipes
 

VolcAnTV

Well-Known Member
Good thread, i've been following since page 2. Im running 30 awg A1 Kanthal with dual coils. I started with screen from an old grinder cut to size and flamed. Got a 60 wire Ti screen from ALT last month that been working better. For ceramic element i broke an old plastic knife shapener apart for one of it's rods which are almost 1/8" thick then broke a piece off. Went to dual sloped coils utilizing the other half of the ceramic rod.
I use 3.7v IMR batt cells 16650 1200mah flat tops and 18650 2200mah/ button. PTFE ufo MP for top screen. Single hole drilled on middle ring. So far so good!
 

jambandphan03

in flavor country
Hey, just wanted to mention that I am diving into the world of wood turning. I am starting small with pens, and a few ideas I have for wood mouthpieces etc... going to see where it takes me :) I hope to one day incorporate wood turning with vaping in some way. Wood tubes have a lot of uses, not sure where they can apply in your mods, but you never know what may come up later on down the road... wish me luck!!
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Good thread, i've been following since page 2. Im running 30 awg A1 Kanthal with dual coils. I started with screen from an old grinder cut to size and flamed. Got a 60 wire Ti screen from ALT last month that been working better. For ceramic element i broke an old plastic knife shapener apart for one of it's rods which are almost 1/8" thick then broke a piece off. Went to dual sloped coils utilizing the other half of the ceramic rod.
I use 3.7v IMR batt cells 16650 1200mah flat tops and 18650 2200mah/ button. PTFE ufo MP for top screen. Single hole drilled on middle ring. So far so good!
Good stuff. Have to admit I never did a dual coil once I went to 3.7 volt set up. Couple questions for you if it's Ok.
What resistance are you running at?
Continuous power or on demand momentary switch?
And lastly, any chance you can throw a couple pics in to show your creation?

Thanks.

Hey, just wanted to mention that I am diving into the world of wood turning. I am starting small with pens, and a few ideas I have for wood mouthpieces etc... going to see where it takes me :) I hope to one day incorporate wood turning with vaping in some way. Wood tubes have a lot of uses, not sure where they can apply in your mods, but you never know what may come up later on down the road... wish me luck!!

Good for you Jam. A new hobby is always fun. I actually looked at a metal lave but then had to decide if it was worth a divorce or not. Tough choice.........................
Naw, too much money. Not the Lave. :rolleyes:

All the best in your new endeavor, I'm sure you will enjoy it.

Pipes
 

VolcAnTV

Well-Known Member
Could not have gotten this without all of the R&D you have done in this thread. Thank you for your efforts and starting this thread Pipes. You're a vapor hero.

As for resistance, i didn't check, just eyballed it. I started trying a double twisted 30 awg single coil and soon realized how easy i could turn that into a double core. Easy to make also, I just use one long wire bent in half secured at that point with first screw. Then wrapped the ceramics and secured with final screw.
Constant power but once it get going it's a freight train. After letting off the extra heat stored in the ceramic gets you one or two more pulls without power.

I'll try and get a pic of the naked core in action and post it soon. Maybe just the glow through the screen. I just don't like to disassemle because with the new screen its a pretty tight fit and rubs the coils a bit when unscrewing/screwing. I wouldn't want to have to move the screen around again to prevent a short out. Im sure its set pretty good and sticky after all the flowers and H2O it's seen. Maybe a video of performance

Edit: The batteries i mentioned are actually 17650.
 
VolcAnTV,
  • Like
Reactions: Pipes

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Constant power but once it get going it's a freight train. After letting off the extra heat stored in the ceramic gets you one or two more pulls without power.

I'll try and get a pic of the naked core in action and post it soon. Maybe just the glow through the screen. I just don't like to disassemle because with the new screen its a pretty tight fit and rubs the coils a bit when unscrewing/screwing. I wouldn't want to have to move the screen around again to prevent a short out. Im sure its set pretty good and sticky after all the flowers and H2O it's seen. Maybe a video of performance

Edit: The batteries i mentioned are actually 17650.
Thank you very much. It's been a blast getting it all to this point.
Sounds like your well into the fun. Getting pulls after your turn the power off is something I never achieved. That and your wait time indicates a fair size ceramic. Finding the right balance in this regard is what I have been playing with these days. More ceramic (heat retainer), the longer you can pull before temperature drops below vaping temperature. But also takes longer to build the heat back up. I found that large ceramic also can get into combustion if not drawing often and hard specially once it gets going.
Less ceramic is faster heat up but harder to get huge clouds.
Finding the best mix along with matching the coil gauge and length makes the possibilities endless.
And now getting into mixing it up with using some coil for ceramic and some for free standing with no ceramic at all. Puts in even more possibilities. And design fun.
Getting the screen right is a big issue for this unit and I really enjoy the permanent screens I got. The holes could be a bit smaller though. I only shake upside down with them as sometimes if shake some herb falls into the oven and get a little taste of smoke.
As for the screen getting sticky, I found it stays quite clean because of being so close to the heat but I have never done H2O. Maybe a good thing for holding in place. I imagine you have been adding it to the herb?
Looking forward to seeing a picture or two of your efforts.
Great stuff.

Pipes

EDIT: An ohm meter would be a good investment. ;)
 
Pipes,

VolcAnTV

Well-Known Member
Usually herb alone, occasionally mixed with H2o, seldomly i run straight H2O. The plus side is i can throw the straight into a cap/pill after. The screen does keep itself very clean still as you mentioned. I just don't want to mess with it for now in case i had to hold the screen in place while turning the rest of the piece over the threads. Don't remember if i had to or not. The core gets caught on the screen when i try to unscrew it. I'd like to see how the 40 wire Ti screen compares to the 60.
Pics are a farce for me so you might have to take my word for it. Each coil is about 4 wraps the ceramic isn't quite red hot but the wires are saturated in the top half of each coil it appears. Impossible to combust, and i wouldn't want to abuse it with that much prolonged heat in an attempt. ABV is browned and slightly green so probaly not as dark as some prefer. I have a multi-meter and an amprobe but i think it's different then what i need to measure ohms.
 
VolcAnTV,
  • Like
Reactions: Pipes

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Nicely done and keep us up to date on any changes.
Running on a 17650 cell is good to know information as I can get 2 sessions per charge on a 18650 but always start a session on a fresh charge so most of the charge is never used.
Thanks for the info,
Pipes
 
Pipes,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
**********1St Attempt at Concentrate******************

Since I am pretty much happy with the Herb Bulli set up I figured it's time to try something new.

This was my first attempt at modding the Bull for Concentrate use. The main component needed is a method to hold the concentrate and I found that fish aquarium bubble stone seems to work fine for this function. Initially I heard of this in the ecig forums where some types are used to wick the ejuice in genesis style atomizers. (which I am also using a variation in my genesis ecig) I got mine at PetSmart.
Note: The blue stone type (popular one) is bad news as breaks down in high heat.

P1050217_zps850f67a0.jpg


My idea was to cut these such that a element can fit up the center and an air hole drilled into the top for vapour flow. The main problem is to how to hold the oil up into the ceramic and keep it from just falling out the bottom. In an initial attempt I found the concentrate would just melt into it and would drop out the bottom. To try and remedy this I coated the outside and bottom with a ceramic coating which is far less absorbent. Leaving the top and inside exposed to the bubble stone.

P1050220_zps2086e255.jpg

P1050221_zpsd5903ab2.jpg


I tested the sponge with a torch to ensure no cracking etc.

P1050223_zps7a6f849c.jpg


The element I started with is a AWG 26 and one side returns to the terminal contact via the center of coil. My thinking was to keep the return wire out of the way so that installing the "sponge" would be to simply set it over the element. Started with a modest 1.6 ohm.

P1050224_zpsb5e03c34.jpg

P1050225_zps73a6b3a8.jpg

P1050226_zps74a71690.jpg


Here all seemed good so I loaded er up. Maybe 1/8 gram or so.
Bare in mind I only have lube I make from my AVB so it's not the best and I never have much so I have a hard time performing any extensive testing. At this point I was not getting much vapour but could feel the heat for sure. Adding a little more also did not improve the situation.

P1050227_zpsdbaef76c.jpg

P1050229_zps8e119ecd.jpg

P1050230_zps408ac2e5.jpg

P1050231_zpsdf2c74fc.jpg


Once things cooled down I opened the bottom to find that the oil still managed to get around my barricade.

P1050232_zpsa499cbf1.jpg

P1050234_zpsd3f02fde.jpg


At this point I called it a day. Put the sponge on a steel rod to torch it clean. Found a lot of concentrate ran down the rod after heating indicating that the "sponge" was doing it's job as anticipated which was to hold the concentrate. So although this experiment was a bust, the concept certainly looks doable. Might have to enclose the element at the bottom and make a small side intake hole rather then up through the bottom.? Would have to mount as a complete heater core. Was hoping to keep it simple for cleaning. Oh well.

Let the fun continue........
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Come gather around the campfire again. I have some more marshmallows to share.

Well the fun continues and now convinced this is a doable endeavor.

After the first attempt we found that a better way to contain the goo inside the ceramic encasement.
So I cleaned up the first unit from above post and drilled a side hole and made a new element.




Then I sealed the bottom.



Next I added about 1/8 gram of concentrate and ran for close to a minute strait. Added another dab of concentrate but could not achieve much vapor. I could get small amount but only after long heat times.
So this attempt was also a failure.........Dang......

But once I disassembled it I found that the bottom seal WORKED. The underside was completely dry.



This was a big step forward. Now the trouble seemed to be heat. The failed unit was running around 1.5 ohm and tight against the aquarium stone. I was thinking that the stone contact was holding the heat back and preventing the element from getting to the needed temperatures.

So I know the option to lower the resistance to up the power was there but one of my goals was to keep the device usable for my "Gripper"ecig VV. Reason for this is to have some temperature control of the element. My other goal is to have a device that still functions (optimised) well on a 3.7 volt without a VV mod. This means the lowest resistance would be 1.2 ohms before the "gripper" or similar VV mod refuses to fire. Can't do much about the 10 second timeout except pulse the switch.

So my next try was to lower the element to 1.2 ohm and I also changed out the sponge material to Pumice Stone which can be obtained at most dollar stores. This stuff is very easy to work with but chips very easy. Excellent sponge characteristics. Once encapsulated with my mixed ceramic mixture it becomes much easier to handle.







Next step was to load er up. Here it is with about 3 hefty scoops 150-200 mg? of ISO wash lube.




And after only 10 seconds.....



And.......
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
:
tumblr_megpxz0Law1rmot3ko1_400.jpg

:
:
:
:
:
:
I took a couple pulls and found wow, get more than can handle when drawing slow and steady. Went for about 8-9 good pulls and I stopped for a looksee inside.




No leakage and actually looks like can go for a few more. And looks like it was never close to a full load. Yeah...

I think this might be the one.......or at least getting close. But I know it's now just a matter of tweaking up on the idea.

Something neat is that you can look down the mouthpiece while unit is fired to see the glowing element and when the glow disappears the vape is ready to draw as it blocks the visible glow.

Couple notes:

Taste- The lube I have which is AVB ISO wash so not the best to judge with, to me it has same type taste as I get using the Kanger cartos. No addition tastes which I can notice.

Heat- The unit gets physically hot such you need to wait a bit to remove. Or use shirttail. Doesn't get too hot that I have to worry about the power handle. In this case the gripper. Hitting hard with friends would likely be a different story.

A very happy vaporist,
Pipes
 
Top Bottom