DIY Bulli Vaporizer

[Egzoset]

Salutations Pipes,

...my pliers slipped...

I remember stating my concerns after i saw some good pictures and this was my reply:

​

...because i thought those screws shouldn't be located in the oven chamber.

Now we have confirmation that repeated manipulations may also be an issue!

 

[Spliff]

Pipes,

You got me. I have to give this a try now.
I had/have working vapes, so contentment kept me from tinkering.
Not anymore. Thanks for the kick.

Spliff

 

[Pipes]

Pipes,

You got me. I have to give this a try now.
I had/have working vapes, so contentment kept me from tinkering.
Not anymore. Thanks for the kick.

Spliff

Cool Spliff, when ordering remember to request no holes drilled in mid section. The default is a pre-drilled single hole. Not the end of the world but two lower placed holes are preferable. Welcome to the fun.

If not sure about what to order feel free to ask. Couple options for the mouthpiece. Mega to 510 adapter and use a standard drip tip or a single ego dual coil drip tip. If considering using with glass the single dual core would attach better to tubing. Get both options for the extra buck or 2.
Also, next time your in a dollar store or Walmart grab a stainless steel strainer to make the dome screens from. Still working on a way to affix it better but they do stay under their own compression. For the ceramic element keep an eye open for a ceramic tweaking tool. I have newly discovered that it is a solution for the needed heat transfer characteristics.

I will be updating the thread with this find shortly.

Salutations Pipes,

I remember stating my concerns after i saw some good pictures and this was my reply:

...because i thought those screws shouldn't be located in the oven chamber.​

Now we have confirmation that repeated manipulations may also be an issue!

Thanks for your concern Egz. Have not had trouble with the screws themselves but have wondered about the insulated bushing on the positive post. This is why I decided to use the crimp on posts. That and makes easier to adjust the finial position which still in place better do to the firm crimped legs.
The trouble with having the element embedded as in your picture, is the wasted heat in the portion buried. After all we are down to little element to work with once down to 3.7 volts.
Interesting concern though and quite true for a heat transfer reduction down to the connector but does waste power because of the un-used element.

Pipes

 

[Pipes]

OK, so I found a very good solution to have really good heat transfer material. As shown in the post above, the bits from a ceramic screw driver I had sitting around is working out great. Here are pictures from the first coil I tried.

I have since discovered that the thicker end of the ceramic works even better. The videos below show the construction from start to finish with the thicker end. The coil which I replace is actually the one shown in pictures above. Excuse the back of hand shots which come into play all too often. No narration as made them at work with some curious on lookers....lol Good job they are all use to seeing me dick around with weird stuff. They just assume it's an ecig project. In a way they are right.
Note, I have gone back to AWG 28, still with finial goal of 1 ohm. The significance of the volt meter measurement is what the element receives when the supply is set to 3.8 Amp limit. Mimicking a battery which is only capable of this current. As the break-in progresses and the resistance rises the voltage also rises. The idea is that if it makes it to 3.7 volts it is drawing equal or under 3.8 amps. Making it usable for batteries capable of delivering this current.

The break-in process consists of cycling the element from hot to cold multiple times. Upwards of 20 or so cycles. If seems nothing is changing then it just seems to change quite quickly and then levels off.

The result shows that the 1 ohm mark seems to be the maximum load for most "standard" 18650s and should set one requirement for any design. Which is only my opinion of course.

BTW, I have ordered a couple good AW 3100 mAh batteries and better charger. Very curious to see how this performs with them. Working with my current batteries but can tell most have a hard time, my one new mid quality 18650 battery which I received with a $15 laser works great.

Happy modding,

Pipes

 

[Egzoset]

Hi,

...the element embedded as in your picture...

That image was awfull and it was only meant as a complement to some text i've long forgotten, never mind! I think i'm getting a better idea of the restrictions you work with and yet it seems i keep making mistakes, in any case i find that your efforts to provide graphical documentation is remarquable, at least that i do know.

If the other readers browse the web using images too then Google may bring you good company, eventually.

Have fun, good luck!

 

[Pipes]

Hi,
That image was awfull and it was only meant as a complement to some text i've long forgotten, never mind! I think i'm getting a better idea of the restrictions you work with and yet it seems i keep making mistakes, in any case i find that your efforts to provide graphical documentation is remarquable, at least that i do know.

No worries, I have a hard time spitting out out I mean too. Firm believer in a picture is worth a thousand words.


Pipes

 

[Spliff]

Ceramic.. That's the pieces that were going to be a pita to get just how I liked. Nice find on the tool above. What method did you use to cut to size?

Found these and a few other rebuildables with ease. Choosing one will be based on ease of mod, parts, and of course making sure I don't set shit on fire. A few were made with clear, thick, walls (tank? portion). Thinking it might work depending on heat tolerance of my soon to be chamber. How hot do you think it gets at the point your screen meets the herb?
Did your med tubing ever "give" in any way to the heat?

http://www.mountainoakvapors.com/MOV-Phoenix-Rebuildable-Atomizer-p/phoenix-rebuild.htm
http://www.empiremods.com/product_p/reba7.htm
http://shop.hotvapes.com/Dot-Tanks-DotTank.htm

Man Pipes, you got some creative ideas. Thanks for the inspiration.
I love your heat from bottom idea, but how about a heat from the center of the chamber vape. I know, I know heat rises....but how about a tank - turned into a chamber - that's clear allowing you to see the herb as you go!?
The carts that go into those glass tanks are duel coil, but I bet we could do something about that. Get more heat. Having the heat vertical may have other challenges though.

This idea looks like to much fun to pass up. With so many ways to go to.
Gotta hit up more ecig sights, any favorites?

 

[Pipes]

Ceramic.. That's the pieces that were going to be a pita to get just how I liked. Nice find on the tool above. What method did you use to cut to size?

You got that right. All the time I was looking and going through draws and searching the web. The dang tweaker was right in front of me in my cup with pens.

Found these and a few other rebuildables with ease. Choosing one will be based on ease of mod, parts, and of course making sure I don't set shit on fire. A few were made with clear, thick, walls (tank? portion). Thinking it might work depending on heat tolerance of my soon to be chamber.

I have not tried any but the Bulli and Bulli china Clone.
I do know the cheaper one I did would not hold up for multiple experimentation. OK for me to do the mod and use until it goes tits up but not really for a learning unit. If you are serious about this the Authentic Bulli may cost more but is truely much better quality. The stainless stain is of German quality and purity is excellent. Have always been told the easiest way to judge ss quality is with a magnet and the Bulli has no magnetic attraction indicating good quality stainless steel. You might also hit other snags but that's what the fun part is.

How hot do you think it gets at the point your screen meets the herb?

Good question. This is part of the design in element placement. If too close to screen the herb will combust so getting it to where it borders on this is the best. So in theory, it would be at the upper range of vaporization just before combustion. Closer the better to ensure the herb towards the upper portion gets hot enough to vape without having to shake or stir it much.

Did your med tubing ever "give" in any way to the heat?

After a couple weeks it does darken up and ends get a little gross. I just replace from time to time. Need at least one little piece around the base to be able to remove while hot. I am not sure of the temp rating of the stuff I have but high heat tubing is available.

This idea looks like to much fun to pass up. With so many ways to go to.
Gotta hit up more ecig sights, any favorites?

I belong to this forum as well as ECF. ECF is a huge forum but very strict in regard to discussions that must be in regard to ecigs and not our vape types.

So welcome to the fun and keep posting your results.

Last point I forgot to mention, if purchasing the Bulli, sign up to his newsletter and get 10% off. Funny, now that I think of it, I have never received any emails....LOL

Pipes

 

[kingofnull]

Wow Pipes, i just got caught up. amazing progress so far. id love to hear morwe about how the ceramic performs.

 

[Pipes]

Wow Pipes, i just got caught up. amazing progress so far. id love to hear morwe about how the ceramic performs.

So far it's been great. It's a really smooth glossy surface. Hard as hell to snip with side cutters. Initially I took a torch to it to ensure it could take the heat and no problems at all.
Just to continue with the game I have ordered some AWG 26 gauge from here. It's type D but it's all he's got right now. Not sure on differences on types but IIRC, it has to do with upper temperature limits.??
My thinking is the thicker the wire the less ceramic needed. Might improve heat up time.? Interested to see what differences this will introduce. More metal less ceramic? I'm just never satisfied....
Fun and games.

Pipes

 

[Hippie Dickie]

smallparts.com has ceramic rod (and other shapes) -- kind of pricey at over $1 per inch, 12" length.

 

[Pipes]

smallparts.com has ceramic rod (and other shapes) -- kind of pricey at over $1 per inch, 12" length.

Thanks HD, Great find. I followed your link and it jumps to Amazonsupply.
I found this item on the site which looks like the right idea. $18.42 for 3 inches. This is glass mica.
And the one I think your indicating is Aluminum Oxide here. $20.57 for 12"
Would be nice to see how each type would perform in compairision. Does seem like a lot of money for such a little hunk of ceramic.
I am not sure of the material in the tweaking tool but suspect it's Aluminum Oxide.

Great info HD, thanks again,

EDIT: I found the material type in the Ceramic Alignment tool here It is zirconia ceramic which kind of surprised me. Explains why it is such tough stuff.
Pipes

 

[Pipes]

Checking in with a couple quick updates.

First off I have ordered what I hope is a solution for the screen falling out from time to time. I purchased some "RE-USABLE HEAVY DUTY 12mm CONCAVE STEEL PIPE SCREENS"

These beauties measure 12 mm and the Bulli's hole with a lower lip is 11 mm so I will have to shave a little or press it more concave somehow. I purchased through ebay uk here.
Nice thick Stainless steel. Will update once I've given a try.

I have received my AW 3100 mAh 6.5 Amp drain batteries and charger yesterday. Charged them up at 1 A setting and took close to 2 hours to charge which is about right for off the shelf. My initial findings are disappointing (outperformed by elCheapos) but hope after a couple cycles things will improve. Too early to get into this right now but worth mentioning.

EDIT: Just took the batteries off the charger. 1st "complete" cycle from controlled depletion.
After charge yesterday I never depleted all the way before charging again. Today depleted by cycling between 1 and 4 ohm loads until voltages dropped to 3.15 under load or 3.5 with no load.
They took almost exactly 2.5 hours to charge at 1 amp and both completed very close time wise.

What a difference. Yeah......Now that is what I expected. More to follow I'm sure.
Guess it does take a good flush to clear the drain...

I searched the web about "Li-ion break-in" and from what I found they would say they bare good right from the first charge. Now I never did an intense search mind you. These findings are worth noting as not true. at least for this application.

Hoping information might be helpful for some.

Pipes

 

[Pipes]

Hey I have some great news here. I received the AWG 26 Kanthal D heater wire and did some experimenting and came up with a very different methodology on the approach.

I made a conservative 1.2 ohm (which will work in at more like 1.4 ohm). Found the warm up to a little glow takes like 20 seconds or so and no heat could be felt when drawing. I was testing at 3.56 volts (real life) and it was drawing only 3.3 amps. (under 12 watts) Once it ran continuous I started getting some really nice results after the initial puff or two. Very tasty and not harsh at all. Previous windings now seem hot in comparison. Towards the end it would get warm tasting which I thought was normal.?

It got me thinking to that rectangular ceramic winding I had tried previously and I classified it a failure. Could I have just not waited long enough? Never tried the continuous on technique after a longer warm up. So I pulled out that old ceramic piece and gave it a go.

This is the new wire (thick stuff):

Here is the wire and the piece of ceramic it will go around. 4 inches active length.

This is where I got that ceramic from. Much easier to obtain then the tweakers.
The little darker one was from previous testing.

And lastly the wire on the ceramic.

Testing this got me very excited very quickly as after the 20 second warm up, it just honks from start to finish with the power just left on. The taste is great and the unit itself actually stays cooler. The element doesn't have that bright glow as before but doesn't seem to need it. I believe the longer thicker element combined which a rectangular ceramic giving more vertical surface is a winning combination.

Now this is why I was searching for a power handle which can be left in the "ON" position. Could not find so I made the one I posted in $5 18650 PV Mod

Now combining this handle with this 3.6V DIY Bulli mod is freakin awesome.
Battery life is very good. Runs a full load with no problem at all. 2 loads with the second not as cooked as the first be acceptable. With this in mind I have never really gone for broke, rather just go with fresh for each session.
External heat is much less. And with its own handle I can remove my little rubber piece. It's some how odd that the outside temperature stays cooler ever though it's running all the time. I have also noticed that you can leave it run for quite a while between draws (those duh moments) and it still does not combust. This really proves no to dick conduction vaping happening proving that it's working on almost all convection heat.
Have no problem with combustion at all, not even much cinching happening. Maybe a little up the center if you don't agitate at all. Hopefully the new SS screens will stomp that out completely.

WARNING: I thought I'd add this here as some may start doing the 100% on. I have 5 Bulli's which 2 are for ecig and 3 for my herb experiment. Running these guys hard does have it's toll on the rubber bushing or insulators. Mostly because of my assembling over and over again but they do give out. I have ordered what I hope will work as replacement from AvidVape here..
I read they will work but?? In the mean time I started to use heat shrink tubing. 2 to 1 shrink and just large enough to fit over the bottom inside (extended out) connector. Shrink it down leaving it over the nibble. It takes shape to the pin and then cut the access off around the out side of nipple and push into the hole.

As for power handles the DIY MODS seem best as lots of possibilities. I would like something like MadVapes Gripper but with a toggle switch, LED and a hole large enough for the Bulli.
But I have a couple ideas. That cheap flashlight is more of a stop gap till I figure something out.
Would like to get away from the 510 all together. Thinking RCA type as the actual original bulli (not the A2) was RCA or (phono) type connector. Cheap easy and effective. Guess what I'm trying to say is, if starting from scratch I would get with the strait Bulli with RCA as readily available everywhere. and not fragile as the 510s are.

Ok, been debating about posting this video and still not completely sure if good idea but WTF.

So that's about it for now. I will leave a picture of a real incognito unit I'm working on.

Hint... it incorporates an RCA adapter.

Cheers,
Pipes

Will report back with the results of the new SS screens which I should be receiving this week.


EDIT: Forgot to add that I have found a more local Bulli supplier here at Vaporcigzz And actually a bit cheaper. Getting the mid section without the holes will delay the order some thought.

 

[AlterEgo]

Best..Thread.. Ever.

You are doing amazing work man, and I now that this is the place to be to getting a 510 threaded rebuildable for dry herbs to work. Hey if you ever need a tester..

So anyway I really wanna get this to work for myself as well and have quite a few rebuildables laying around, though most are genesis style. I was also thinking of throwing this on a variable wattage device to achieve consistent high-watt vaping. If we really need to hit stuff like 20 watts then maybe dual DNA boards soldered together helix style.

But anyway I'm thinking of trying to mod the Vision Eternity RBA. The only reason I'm thinking of using it is cause 1. got it free in a contest and 2. It already has a piece that covers the coil directly above coil with holes in it. Probably not enough tho to make a good screen from stock. It also comes with a tank attachment to fit the ego tank cartridges like what you posted a couple pages back. What do you think? Any suggestions?

I have spools of Kanthal A1 in 28g 32g 33g 34g, though I normally use 32g twisted. (BTW so glad you tried out the twisted method, that info was helpful )

 

[AlterEgo]

 

[Pipes]

Hey Alter, that unit looks much like the ones I got but got the Ego TM version. That would be a strait T version. T means tank and TM is mega tank. I found the non-mega version really hold a small amount of herb where as the TM gives more choices.

Anyway, you could do something with that one but would not attempt to re-work many times as those little screws for tightening against the wire break if you look at them wrong. I would drill out that mid section leaving just enough lips to squeeze in a screen of some type. From the picture you just need to screen off the drip tip somehow as well. Also looks like a center air feeder. If so I found drilling out the side holes on the 510 connector helped the air restriction. Did not touch the main center hole going down the center of 510. If the skirt is attached and you don't want to use ego adapter, you can break it away if the metal is the same stuff mine are made of.

Depending the voltage you are running and other tastes would determine the correct recipe for you.
However this is the fun stuff IMO. Hense a product which can take some abuse and if you do screw up can still re-build the re-buildable. And you are correct in that the re-buildables have taken the Genesis route for a huge part. Makes a lot of scents for the ecig would. I might switch over to that method for my ecig habit down the road.

Hope this helps you out and for sure keep us posted on you results. Some fun stuff IMO and a great hobby.

Pipes

 

[AlterEgo]

Thanks for the advice Pipes! Hey when you say drill out the midsection, are you referring to that entire top face including the small holes, or just the center puncture pin? I know some of it has got to go and I really liked what you did for screens above your coils.

Screening off the drip tip is gonna be a breeze, but I hadn't even thought of it so thanks again! Fortunately on this model where the drip tip enters there is a small lip preventing putting the drip tip in too far. I should be able to cut a small screen and just put it in before placing in the drip tip, which should also make it easily replaceable.

You are correct it does pull its air from the small holes in the 510 connector and I totally agree extra holes on the side underneath the coil should make the draw much airier. Any size recommendations? I usually go 1/16 but thats for ecigs. Actually it doesn't require an eGo adapter. The picture doesn't show it but its actually just standing up on its 510 connector, though the unit does come with the optional ego thread ring, but thats just for vanity.

Ya if you are looking for the best flavor and vapor production, and you don't mind fiddling, Genesis attys are the best IMO. Here is my current setup, running a 4/5 wrap of Twisted 32g Kanthal. This beast just spew vapor Plus I work better with the SS mesh wicks, though I saw you were having good success with ceramics

Sorry for the novel. lol I just get excited and this thread is EXACTLY what I was looking for...well.. First I looked to see if anybody had made any ones for sale that were any good, but I haven't heard great things about the two I saw Atmos, and something else

 

[AlterEgo]

Oh hey another question for ya on screen material. Do you think I could just use some of the stainless steel mesh I already have as screen material? It may be woven too fine, I think what I have right now is 400. I can send you some if you wanna try it out.

 

[Pipes]

Hey Alt, yes you are correct about the mid section. Not just the puncher post but pretty much as much as you can to make room for the screen. The 400 SS is away too fine. That's what I use for wicking material. I am currently using SS screen from sink strainer. Start with over sized piece and push the bump into it. Avoid doing the cutting until the shape is there. I use a good pair (at least they use to be) of precision scissors. Once cut you do not want to move it much as it will want to frey. It will take a couple tries. Good job the hunk of screen is huge. The trick is to have the size correct and it pushes in and holds itself by it's own side pressure. Once in, it never needs much for cleaning as the heat does that. Give a good burn off before using as with any screen.
As for the hole size, I think I used 3/32" but not sure. Was one size up from the standard that is usually there.

A finial friendly note is that the rules state that you use the edit function when adding more to a thread as preferred for moderating purposes and keeps threads shorter.

Good stuff and keep on modding,
Pipes

 

[Pipes]

Good news, I received the SS screens today. I had already made a jig to adjust them for the bulli. Using a washer I drilled the hole the 11 mm diameter. The screens were 12 mm as stated in the ad. I then thickened up the washer using, you guessed it, JB Weld. This time the normal dry time tube stuff. Wanted as strong as possible. Using a steel shaft I fashioned a round end close the the needed guestimated size.

Aligned the screen and used a hammer to tap into the hole. Took a bit of tapping checking the fit til it was very close. Used a vise to do the finial "click" into place. I found you have to be careful as I though all was good but the bowl was very tight to screw into place. It actually stretched out the threading some. Pushed back out. And was not easy which is a good thing. Hammered a few more times and "clicked" it back it. Have been working the threads back in but confident they'll work their way back. Just still a little tight. (squeaky) The second unit I have done is fine.

Performance seems much the same but very early to judge for sure. Nice upgrade for sure and no more worrying about the screen falling out. At least that's the plan.

As you can see the fit and arc are bang on. Holes maybe slightly big but seems OK so far.

All in all, it's been a good day.

Pipes

EDIT:

Have been thinking about where I started and where I have ended up and what would I do if I were to do again?

Well what main changes have come about which meets "my" criteria.
-Device which works off 3.7 volts with wide working range eliminating need for regulator. Must also be a reasonable power conservative. (achieved under 12 watts)
Reason: wanted a more common 18650 battery.

Trial and error discoveries:
-Discovered low voltage = longer warm up + technique change. (leave power on)
Remedy: A DIY power handle is needed.
-Bulli weak point is it's 510 connector and insulator. Hopefully new less external heat design will solve this. In any case have replacement parts on order and other solutions on hand. Worse case drill out 510 and change to RCA (phono)
-Proper SS screening material obtainable.

Now combining these findings and preferences the best approach IMHO, would be to go the original Bulli with the RCA type connector and the single strait tube. Going to give the straight tube another try now that a proper screen which can be wedged up the tube with little problem is available. The advantage here would be the adjustability of the screen height would be a more controllable. (Think I'm past that now though?)
So you'd end up with an RCA device with only one piece from mouth piece adapter to the heater core. Make a 18650 power source and your away.

 

[Egzoset]

Salutations Pipes,

Have you seen the TriiHouse Waldo? I'm asking because its most noticeable feature happens to be the way into which it's being articulated... When i saw your late progress i thought perhaps one day it would be nice if you could have a similar wooden shell around those metal parts, to delay buildup of body heat - and/or enhance the appearance, include more features, etc.

 

[Pipes]

Salutations Pipes,

Have you seen the TriiHouse Waldo? I'm asking because its most noticeable feature happens to be the way into which it's being articulated... When i saw your late progress i thought perhaps one day it would be nice if you could have a similar wooden shell around those metal parts, to delay buildup of body heat - and/or enhance the appearance, include more features, etc.

Hi Eqz, you are right on in your thinking. Seems every time I see any container these days that's more or less the right size, I start to think how a battery and Bulli would fit. In fact I have ordered a couple 18650 DIY battery cases that are made to hold 2 batteries. One of the battery spots can be used for the Bulli.
As for wood, this is more or less how I'd do it. Plus an LED. IMO pretty much mandatory for a device with a latchable power switch.

Pending realistate, a spring loaded latch to be able to push Bulli inside the box would be cool. Also, the use of micro switched could be implemented to suffice as a switch.
Yes, this is what I call the fun part as the unit is functioning so well.

As for your concern about the heat. It is no longer an issue as the new winding which seems much more efficient tends not to spread it's heat as easily externally. No idea why but happy it went that way rather then getting even hotter with leaving it on.

Cheers and off to work,
Pipes

 

[2clicker]

holy crap... great thread pipes!

thinking about trying this

 

[Pipes]

holy crap... great thread pipes!

thinking about trying this

Thanks 2click. It's been a journey into the unknown for sure.

Good for those who like to tinker but would not recommend if one is not comfortable with rebuilding the rebuildable if need be. Remember there is no warranty with this project but really nothing to fail that can't be fixed.

I'm back with the TM version as easier to dump out (wider) and seems to have clearer draw as well and screen placement on the strait A2 can be a pita.

Lot's of fun and experimentation to zero in on personal preference. Can't get it to taste like a PAX or Solo but sure gets the job done. I'm presently running like the Cera from what I have read on it. My current method is to leave on for the most part and turning off if getting too hot. And running at about the 10 watt mark makes it nice for battery life.

I have been having fun making power handles these days. Latest is from a Cree 18650 battery flashlight I picked up off ebay for $10.25. here. Link might be dead but its a "TrustFire TR-801 Cree Q5 5-Mode 300-Lumen waterproof LED Flashlight torch Lamp".
So far is working very nice. Here is the larger version of the gif in my current signature.

This TET handle has great size and quality. Modded to be used with 18650s with a spring added to the bottom to keep the protection circuit functional. Works as a reverse kill switch as the normal state is "on". Hold to push battery towards bottom to momentarily turn power off. The actual switch is to remove the device via the added RCA connectors.

And there was this one. Used for a week or so but found I could taste the air coming from inside the case. Not terrible but it was taste-able.

Of course the first real cheapo.

I also have another flashlight handle coming in which I picked up for $8.50 here. Again if link fails its a "CREE Q5 300LM LED Mini 18650 Flashlight Torch 3-Mode Silver Handlamp"
I picked these units because of measurements for the most part. The gamble is getting reasonable quality switches. The Cree's seem not too bad and can likely get replacement switches of better quality if need be.??

A safety note: Only use protected batteries in DIY projects as shit does happen.

There is a more local supplier for the Bulli here. However, my co-worker has had on order from them since mid December with the hold up being the request for the center portion NOT to be pre drilled. Making it a special order to Germany. Kind of a pita as it's not really that big of deal. I have 2 with original holes but added a second on the opposite side but at the preferred lower level.

Happy Modding,
Pipes