Divine Tribe atty's

OF

Well-Known Member
Are you sure about that? When I was testing TCRs with my IR thermometer, I found that 300-400 was running a lot hotter than the 235-255 suggested range.

You are correct. Think about it a minute. That factor is 'how many percent does the resistance change per degree'. With some 'decimal point shifting' thrown in to keep it from being too easy. Normally this sort of value is expressed in PPM (Parts Per Million), 1/10,000th of a percent. But the real numbers are more like 2450 PPM per degree C. So to save memory and display space, they drop the units and call the value 245. About 1/4 of one percent.

We want to go, roughly, from 20C to 200C? A 180C rise. Times .00245 (.245%) gives us a delta (change) of .441 (44.1%). If we start out at say .7 Ohms cold, that's a rise of .31 Ohms (.7 X .441) for a new target resistance just over one Ohm (.7 + .31). The Mod will apply full power (typically 12 Watts) until the measured resistance reaches that point then limit out. It doesn't know degrees, all it knows is resistance change. We tell it, through the entered value and selected temperature, what to shoot for using the above logic.

If we double the value, to 490, we double the calculated rise in resistance. The real rise, of course, is still about 2450 PPM. It's now looking for 1.3 Ohms. It's going to go much hotter and still not get there, either radiated heat losses will limit it before it reaches 380 C, the power limit will kick in or the heater will check out. Smaller numbers give lower temperatures. Remember the machine multiplies that number by the temperature (rise) you asked for. It controls by Ohms. Or rather change in Ohms. Even if, like the Pico, it doesn't display that change, it's there, it's what the game is all about.

.245% per degree C (.136% per degree F), is real. It's based on the material (chemistry) not mechanics. Since we can safely assume they didn't change the metal in the heater just for your new unit, that's what's happening there. Any change has to relate to the mechanics of the assembly then.

If you heated it to glowing red (not a good thing to be doing, BTW) it's clearly plenty hot to make vapor. Normally it is 'stood up' off the floor by raised bosses where the leads for the heater leave. They are simply wedged in place by rubber bits below and can easily break right at the bond with the doughnut. Often the doughnuts aren't flat from what I've seen. I broke one trying to fix that part. Fortunately it was before I loaded it the first time, now I leave them be.

It's entirely possible, I think, for a modest load of concentrate to not be deep enough to make good contact with the doughnut. Concentrate has to contact it to get the game going. Is it possible, since this one never produced, that it just doesn't have a big enough initial load to work? I load about .050 (1/20 of a gram) normally (at least I think I do.....) but I usually load 2 or 3 times that for the initial load. I want a puddle deep enough to reach up to the doughnut and form a meniscus with the doughnut hole. Not the Meniscus in your knee mind, but the curved surface of (some) liquids where they contact the walls. For instance, water 'climbs the walls in an eye dropper, but 'beads up' on wax paper. It has to do with surface tension and that good stuff, how the liquid behaves where it ends and air begins. Or in out case, concentrate ends. I want the gap under filled until it reaches the hole and I can see the surface distorted to tell me it's contacted the bottm (I don't have to wait until is flows out the top and leaks down the vents and all. I gauge the fill by that concave surface.

After the initial fill, residual will forever remain making the next fill a 'top up' really. I may be off base here (happens more and more often......) but about now I'd probably be investing some more concentrate in the project. Enough to reach that glowing doughnut is sure to make vapor for you........

Regards to all.

OF

Edit: BTW it's probably better to experiment with different M values by simply tweaking the requested temperature. Lots easier to do (less fiddling with buttons) and you don't get lost.

Your call, of course, either scheme changes the target temperature, both are proportional (by even steps). One removes all discussion of M factors from the experiment, easier for most to think in degrees?

OF
 
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Steven

Well-Known Member
Are you sure about that? When I was testing TCRs with my IR thermometer, I found that 300-400 was running a lot hotter than the 235-255 suggested range.
No I'm not sure on that and I very may be wrong. It's what I was told on this forum when I asked. It was quite a while ago and I don't remember the details.

All I know is I keep it at tcr 245 with most dt attys and I get billows of vapor. Anyone with a decent draw technique is always amazed at how much vapor this thing puts out. I keep it at tcr 245 and 420F with all attys and I only adjust wattage for varying attys. So far I've only needed to go as high as 13.5w. Some attys even work well at 10.5w. I also noticed some attys can be cleaned with 10w in vw mode but others may need 11w. I'm just saying this is what I do and it works great for me.
 
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Quote

Member
Is it possible, since this one never produced, that it just doesn't have a big enough initial load to work?
I loaded more in the new one that didn't work than I loaded in the old one that did work. It just can't transfer enough heat into the wax to boil the layer on the bottom. Just a bad atty. :[
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
I loaded more in the new one that didn't work than I loaded in the old one that did work. It just can't transfer enough heat into the wax to boil the layer on the bottom. Just a bad atty. :[

Thanks for trying.

It makes no sense from here. Glowing red and not enough heat transfer? Perhaps Matt will have some insight, he's no doubt 'seen it all' by now.

Too much glaze on the underside of the doughnut????

OF
 

Quote

Member
Thanks for trying.

It makes no sense from here. Glowing red and not enough heat transfer? Perhaps Matt will have some insight, he's no doubt 'seen it all' by now.

Too much glaze on the underside of the doughnut????

OF
I think it's just the donut is too high off the floor of the cup. Not too concerned though. Like I said, the old one should last til the V3. I don't wanna get in Matt's way trying to release it. :D
 

fernand

Well-Known Member
Grumble, Mofos, lousy workmen, you name it. My eVic VTC mini just went brain dead.

Put in a charged battery, it shows a normal screen but with the battery showing empty and then it just flips to "Key lock". Try pushing buttons you get various crazies, like stealth on, off, key lock, it's unusable. Judging by the symptoms, or signs rather, I'd guess one of the buttons is shorted permanently on. Have I ever dropped it? Does a bear shit in the woods? Of course I've dropped it, though not as mercilessly as my Kangxin VF minis, that have survived unspeakable crashes, been straightened out the Russian way with pliers and a mallet, and keep on ticking.

This isn't right. And 90 days "warranty"? I'm getting upset about too many things today. Dumbest of all I can't remember where I bought it. Doesn't show on GearBest, e-bay, Amazon or PayPal. ?

[later] Eciggity hawaii, on credit card. Damn. 90 days warranty. That's not much.

[later] FIXED. The Evic VTC mini isn't hard to tear down. What it took was dismantling it down to the board level and washing everything in 91% isopropyl alcohol, soaks & shakes, and with a little brush. It's fixed enough to respond to buttons properly, unassembled. Now the trick is finding if there was a spring at the top battery terminal, because if there was it's somewhere on the carpet.

But here is the lesson. These devices are shockingly unprotected from leaks. Anything that can will leak in at the 510 connector and below. I had some glycerin leaks that I didn't think much about, but the insides were soaked, shorting out I/O pins on the microprocessor.

Here is a good piece of advice. It's like with carts and RTAs. In spite of the nuisance, NEVER store yer mods upright with an atomizer on top. Anything that leaks will leak, and you will end up with a dead & goopy mod.


Just found the (necessary) top battery connector spring on the floor. Do you have a relative or enemy you want to give a gift that keeps on taking? Give them a little rug or chair mat in a modernist pattern of little screws and springs. They'll never find anything off the floor again ;-)
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
Judging by the symptoms, or signs rather, I'd guess one of the buttons is shorted permanently on.

Bummer. Based on what you've said I think that's a high probability diagnosis. It's obviously trying to work or you would get no display at all?

There are only 3 buttons, I suggest you go to a quiet place (so you can hear them) and see if you can figure it out that way?

Good luck.

OF
 
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fernand

Well-Known Member
@OF, thanks. The buttons sounded normal and felt credible. Turned out the permanent on-state was there, but right at the microcontroller i/o lines that were soaked in glycerin and crap.

It seems OK now, I'm reassembling it later tonight. The vendor had offered to sell me a new one, so I HAD to dig in. {from a sense of shame}

[later] The design of the eVic' VTC mini's 510 connector and the front panel is such that a low viscosity material like e-liquid just seeps right in. Surprisingly thoughtless.

Good thing we're not messing around with nicotine-laced candy-flavored liquids to enslave the kiddies.
 
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mrbonsai420

Accessory Maker
Accessory Maker
I can tell u for sure they are not "leaked V 3's".

The construction appears to have the same top air holes and inlets in the base as the more conventional black donut ones I got from keepitmovin13, so they are likely just that with a different heater. The one picture I had showed the wires weren't as evenly distributed.




They do quote a higher resistance range, so the heater wire could be different, maybe better and maybe worse for TC. Certainly would require some recalibration and testing. An BTW this is where having a real time resistance readout, like on the Joyetechs, is very handy.


I got this solid disc donut atty and I don't care for mine. It's just a lower grade donut IMO. I will be looking forward to the V3 or the new Kiln. Still might order a miracle coil but this wasn't a winner. Until then the V2.7 will do the trick.
 

fernand

Well-Known Member
The whole micro fabrication that makes these Temperature Controlled "mods" possible is so impressive. A Cann pipe with the brains of a desktop PC.

I had to fix my eVic as only the Joyetech shows the changing resistance in real time, and that's essential to derive a ballpark TCR.

With microprocessors (actually the right word is microcontroller, as it has i/o pins right on the chip) with tens to hundreds of contacts somehow soldered into a 3D maze of pathways in a multi-layer board, and the microscopic capacitors, resistors etc., you either take it for granted or you get amazed. It's stunning how fast China has adopted this technology, and how e-commerce is spreading it all over.

The LCD pixel array on the eVic has 40 raw connections to the micro, whose software handles turning it into a graphic display internally. Layers of software become reusable modules. The chip vendors offer all sorts of functions as ready-made firmware to the designer. The concepts per cubic millimeter are going through the roof.

There's a company that repairs the (production - truly miniaturized) iPhones whose display circuits are failing due to flexing (Apple doesn't even try to service them). The micro-manipulators they use are something out a microbiology lab.
 
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WKONE

Active Member
Hi all.

New to the world of mods & atomizers, but why let that stop me?
I dove in and bought an Evic Mini 2 mod with a DT 2.7 atty.

I know the recommended voltage is 11V, but there's no recommended ohm setting on the DT website. TBH the site and the internet in general is kinda lacking with info about actually using the DT donut, there isn't even a general noob tutorial anywhere for total noobs like me.

I know I'll probably fuck up and break this thing figuring it out, but can someone give me a general starting point for settings on my Evic when I try to use this thing with some stable C02 shatter, that would be great. Also if someone could actually tell me how to load it? Yeah. I'm THAT new.

Feel free to clown me all you want, as long as you give me some advice I can use. Thanks!
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
We don't clown noobs over here, but we do invite them to read the last 10 to 20 pages of the thread to catch up! :nod:

I'm not using the DT, I'm just hanging there because I had hopes for the DC and then I stuck around... But you need to use your evic either in Power mode or in TCR mode. In either case you need to set the max power to 12W if I'm correct (W for Watts, not V for Volts like you wrote)

In TCR mode you will have to tweak two extra parameters, the values are somewhere in the last few pages I think, but maybe another kind soul will write them here for you.
 

nikcorda

Well-Known Member
Where's everybody? Found a new love? Couch-locked an' grinning in Tarzana?
actually im new to dt style attys, and im trying to figure out which one to buy. id prefer to buy a legit one from dt, and was going to.

but you rocked my world with those little crucible style dishes to put on top of the ceramic donut. thats definitely the way i want to go, but i want to buy the right size so the dish doesnt get lifted up during the draw, you all say its due to the low location of the air vents on some styles.

there was talk of a seller on ebay that had the right style that had air vents high enough to not lift the dish, but when i checked i couldnt find a listing.

can someone point me in the right direction to a properly sized dt atty, that i can use these crucible cups on without worry of them moving around? i would prefer to buy from dt if they have the right size.

thanks!
 

Bad Ocelot

Well-Known Member
IIRC the actual divine tribe donut attys have the air flow holes too low for the crucibles. Sucking air right onto the crucible mucks up the temp control, so you want the air flow to be above the height of the crucible. I haven't tried the crucibles yet but it sounds pretty cool. I've got some of those Source enail attys that are basically the same thing, but the cup/crucible doesn't fit in the DT.
Where's everybody? Found a new love? Couch-locked an' grinning in Tarzana?

been outta full melt :uhoh: so working on vapcap technique for bubble hash :tup:

Hopefully i'll be back on the full melt & back in the DT thread soon. 3.0 is coming.
 

divinetribe

We are trying our hardest to become Medical Grade
Manufacturer
Thank you Fuck Combustion staff and members.
This is for everyone of you that supported me up to this point.
I would not be here without you

DISCOUNT LINK Click HERE
PLEASE PASS ALONG TO YOUR FRIENDS IF YOU WISH.

FRIDAY I WILL BE SHIPPING THE 1ST BATCH OF V3s. they are coming in Thursday. Please direct questions about the v3 directly to my email matt@ineedhemp.com I will not be able to check this blog to much and read every post..
This is the version "3.0" The hits you get from it are amazing, and you can finally take this thing apart and clean it.
The donut jumped in size from 7mm to 13mm. i am still working on the smaller donut 7mm and 10mm rebuilds. Either i am very impatient or just getting this device to its present state seemed to take forever.. Now that we finally have a rebuild that is worthy. My next step is to get this puppy offgas tested .

http://ineedhemp.com/product/divine...mic-donut-atomizer-fcombustion-discount-link/

here is a discount link to everyone who see this post, It might not be up for long, feel free to email me to discuss distribution in your area.
 

Steven

Well-Known Member
Thank you Fuck Combustion staff and members.
This is for everyone of you that supported me up to this point.
I would not be here without you

DISCOUNT LINK Click HERE
PLEASE PASS ALONG TO YOUR FRIENDS IF YOU WISH.

FRIDAY I WILL BE SHIPPING THE 1ST BATCH OF V3s. they are coming in Thursday. Please direct questions about the v3 directly to my email matt@ineedhemp.com I will not be able to check this blog to much and read every post..
This is the version "3.0" The hits you get from it are amazing, and you can finally take this thing apart and clean it.
The donut jumped in size from 7mm to 13mm. i am still working on the smaller donut 7mm and 10mm rebuilds. Either i am very impatient or just getting this device to its present state seemed to take forever.. Now that we finally have a rebuild that is worthy. My next step is to get this puppy offgas tested .

http://ineedhemp.com/product/divine...mic-donut-atomizer-fcombustion-discount-link/

here is a discount link to everyone who see this post, It might not be up for long, feel free to email me to discuss distribution in your area.
Yeeeoowza. What news. At first I was a bit bummed that I just got 2 more back up bases but this release with the discount is so overwhelmingly pleasant that I'm just filled with excitement waiting for the v3 to be in my hands. My only question would be are the air holes coming from above the donut like the older versions or are the air holes coming from beneath the donut?
 
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Bad Ocelot

Well-Known Member
did not need to spend any more money on vape gadgetry this week, but totally just ordered the 3.0, ha. Can't wait to give it a spin. I'm also curious about the airflow and whether it would be feasible to use small SiC, quartz, or possibly sapphire crucibles in it.
 

WKONE

Active Member
Dammit, you just shipped me a 2.7.

Edit: Just ordered a v3, with a request to return the 2.7 when I receive it?
 
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WKONE,

Raz0r

Member
Hi guys. I'm using Cuboid + DT 2.7 combo. And have problems
1) atomizer for dry herb. First time I have tried in wattage mode, up to 40w. First try was OK. When I tried TC M1 with 12w on 230F but after 5seconds of fire button it starts run in wattage mode? My settings for TC Dry herb is incorrect or I should use Ti or Ni modes in TC?
The second - atomizer became extremely hot after 3*10 seconds and don't vape as I expecting
2) donut atomizer - on TC 230F on 12w it going in "protection" mode, and nothing happened. On 20w wattage mode my shatter became liquid and that's all.

I have no problem with Chinese 510 titanium nail on 50w, but wanna use DT attys. Please help with settings
 
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Critronton

Well-Known Member
I bought a ten pack of 2.7 bases a month ago with a friend but I'm such a fan that I snap bought two v3. I'm hoping that the v3 is so good that I'll have to buy a backup battery so I can leave my mod at work and one at home.
 

Bad Ocelot

Well-Known Member
Dammit, you just shipped me a 2.7.

Edit: Just ordered a v3, with a request to return the 2.7 when I receive it?

The 2.7 is a great atomizer, as is the 2.5. Certainly worth keeping as backups or for different strains, etc.

Hi guys. I'm using Cuboid + DT 2.7 combo. And have problems
1) atomizer for dry herb. First time I have tried in wattage mode, up to 40w. First try was OK. When I tried TC M1 with 12w on 230F but after 5seconds of fire button it starts run in wattage mode? My settings for TC Dry herb is incorrect or I should use Ti or Ni modes in TC?
The second - atomizer became extremely hot after 3*10 seconds and don't vape as I expecting
2) donut atomizer - on TC 230F on 12w it going in "protection" mode, and nothing happened. On 20w wattage mode my shatter became liquid and that's all.

I have no problem with Chinese 510 titanium nail on 50w, but wanna use DT attys. Please help with settings

I haven't been able to keep the dry herb atomizer in TC on a few mods, seems to be a common problem. I don't know what the memory settings are by default in the cuboid, but typically you have to tinker with those to get the desired temperature.

What TC mode are you in when trying to use the donut atomizer? I use Ni Mode and 230-250F on a Tesla Nano 60w. On the cuboid you're probably going to want to set one of the TCR memory slots to 245 or so & between 370-400F. If possible set max wattage to something <13w.

Hope that helps!
 
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