Divine Tribe atty's

[Vape Donkey 650]

If anyone has a picture of the V3 on top of an evic VTC Mini I'd like to see it. Please, and thank you!

No pics yet?

How bout I do one better and line it up against one representative from each model of mod I use:

I threw in the pink VTC with a 2.7 for comparative measure. The atty is the same height but a tad bit wider and thicker.

So much to do and say right now....my package came later in the day than some of you other guys. Steven and Matt have got us off to a good start as far as settings. I don't think the whole TCR / finding your settings thing should be too difficult. Just start low and work up. You can "dry fire" your attys with no oil in it to observe the wattages output and resistance rise of your donuts in real time. It doesn't behave exactly the same as when loaded up, but it can help you get an idea without wasting any wax yet.

And yes...all you 12 watt hard-liners are going to have to get over the arbitrary fixation with that number. (at least until the V-3 small donut comes out ) 12w won't do nothing on these larger donuts. We don't have an officially recommended wattage yet, but 25w seems like a good starting point. (But the ramp-up is still MUCH slower compared to v2.5 @ 25w) . Those of us using TC mods more nimble than the istick 40w TC may benefit from higher watts and quicker warm-ups, but we will have to experiment to find out.

Cold large donut on pico @ TCR 245, 25w takes about 7 seconds to hit protection

As for the TCR, I see no problem in using the figures we currently use and possibly adjusting the temp target to our liking. It may not be a very accurate representation of actual donut temps, but what works, works.

I am hereby assigning OF and fernand to re-work the v3.0 TCR curve. Anyone with a good thermocouple and a working knowledge of algebra the the temperature coeffecient of resistance formula can work it out. (i has no thermocouple maybe i should get one)

I have already verified by dry firing at 20w VW that the donut still makes two large semi-circle hot spots on either side of the disc. Still has two cool spots around the same spots.

I'm also pleased to find out the base of the V3.0 donut will allow a 1/2" silicon tube to slip around the base and grip it pretty firmly (if you remove the o-rings) It's slightly more snug and tight than the 2.5 base, but it's not hard to attach and remove, this will allow me to instantly attach the v3.0 base to all my silicon-on-glass globe connectors for my dab rigs! I think adapting the v3.0 to water tools will give e-nails and bangers a serious run for their money, while retaining the low-temp, high vapor-quality capabilities of the 2.5

And a couple more notes to close on: the mouthpiece to o-ring seal on the base is TIGHT almost too tight... takes a bit of effort to remove. Not a little loose like the 2.7.... I don't think these mouthpieces will be falling off by accident much.

And also, the re-designed splash-guard mouthpiece is nice...an improvement from 2.7. Mainly in the way that the splash-guard cup is now a rounded-bowl shape, rather than a sharp cylindrical shape like the 2.7. This means scrapers and re-claimers will have less trouble in re-capturing this splashed oil for disposal or re-use. I often find mouthpiece-splatter reclaim to be the freshest, most usable reclaim from DT attys

So much more to come.......

 

[Steven]

No pics yet?

How bout I do one better and line it up against one representative each from each model of mod I use:

I threw in the pink VTC with a 2.7 for comparative measure. The atty is the same height but a tad bit wider and thicker.

So much to do and say right now....my package came later in the day than some of you other guys. Steven and Matt have got us off to a good start as far as settings. I don't think the whole TCR / finding your settings thing should be too difficult. Just start low and work up. You can "dry fire" your attys with no oil in it to observe the wattages output and resistance rise of your donuts in real time. It doesn't behave exactly the same as when loaded up, but it can help you get an idea without wasting any wax yet.

And yes...all you 12 watt hard-liners are going to have to get over the arbitrary fixation with that number. (at least until the V-3 small donut comes out ) 12w won't do nothing on these larger donuts. We don't have an officially recommended wattage yet, but 25w seems like a good starting point. (But the ramp-up is still MUCH slower compared to v2.5 @ 25w) . Those of us using TC mods more nimble than the istick 40w TC may benefit from higher watts and quicker warm-ups, but we will have to experiment to find out.

Cold large donut on pico @ TCR 245, 25w takes about 7 seconds to hit protection

As for the TCR, I see no problem in using the figures we currently use and possibly adjusting the temp target to our liking. It may not be a very accurate representation of actual donut temps, but what works, works.

I am hereby assigning OF and fernand to re-work the v3.0 TCR curve. Anyone with a good thermocouple and a working knowledge of algebra the the temperature coeffecient of resistance formula can work it out. (i has no thermocouple maybe i should get one)

I have already verified by dry firing at 20w VW that the donut still makes two large semi-circle hot spots on either side of the disc. Still has two cool spots around the same spots.

I'm also pleased to find out the base of the V3.0 donut will allow a 1/2" silicon tube to slip around the base and grip it pretty firmly (if you remove the o-rings) It's slightly more snug and tight than the 2.5 base, but it's not hard to attach and remove, this will allow me to instantly attach the v3.0 base to all my silicon-on-glass globe connectors for my dab rigs! I think adapting the v3.0 to water tools will give e-nails and bangers a serious run for their money, while retaining the low-temp, high vapor-quality capabilities of the 2.5

And a couple more notes to close on: the mouthpiece to o-ring seal on the base is TIGHT almost too tight... takes a bit of effort to remove. Not a little loose like the 2.7.... I don't think these mouthpieces will be falling off by accident much.

And also, the re-designed splash-guard mouthpiece is nice...an improvement from 2.7. Mainly in the way that the splash-guard cup is now a rounded-bowl shape, rather than a sharp cylindrical shape like the 2.7. This means scrapers and re-claimers will have less trouble in re-capturing this splashed oil for disposal or re-use. I often find mouthpiece-splatter reclaim to be the freshest, most usable reclaim from DT attys

So much more to come.......

I think it's a proportion thing about wattage. Since u like 25w on the 2.5, I'm assuming ur gonna want a much higher wattage. What I did was put in a 2.5 base in wattage mode and looked at the voltage reading at my desired wattage. Then I switch to the v3 and set the wattage until it matches the 2.5's voltage reading.

Also, y always the jabs at others' preferred settings man. I also loved the 2.5 at 12.5w. And it's only common sense more wattage would be needed on a bigger donut. Why would you be so suprised that I, or others who use 12w wouldn't arrive to this conclusion. It's not rocket science. Much more experimentation is needed and I'm looking forward to what u and others have to say about it though

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

I think it's a proportion thing about wattage. Since u like 25w on the 2.5, I'm assuming ur gonna want a much higher wattage. What I did was put in a 2.5 base in wattage mode and looked at the voltage reading at my desired wattage. Then I switch to the v3 and set the wattage until it matches the 2.5's voltage reading.

That's a good method to transfer over one's desired power level from 2.5 to 3.0. Using that conversion factor, a 2.5 base @ 0.72Ω needed 4.24v to achieve the 25w that I liked to start the warm-up. This warms up a cold, loaded donut in about 1.5 sec, TC mode.

So now, one of my v3's @ 0.41Ω needs 44w in VW mode to have the voltage at 4.24v as well. But the warm-up time to 400F @ 44w TCR 245 is still about 4 seconds on an empty load....

Also, y always the jabs at others' preferred settings man. I also loved the 2.5 at 12.5w. And it's only common sense more wattage would be needed on a bigger donut. Why would you be so suprised that I, or others who use 12w wouldn't arrive to this conclusion. It's not rocket science. Much more experimentation is needed and I'm looking forward to what u and others have to say about it though

Yes, 25w is the new 12w, or maybe even less. I'm not trying to make it personal, but I couldn't resist that, with how much the 12w figure has been repeated, like a religious mantra. It could lead new users to automatically want to transfer it over, even though it makes no sense to experienced DT users like you and me. I was referring to this, as much.

What TCRs are other people using? The 245 I tried first never hit Temp Protection. Nether did TC-Ni or TCRs from 100->320 so far.

ok I'm back and figured it out. It was the wattage. Tried it on my iStick TC40W and like Matt said, you wanna dial the temp down compared to your v2.5 settings. So next I set my Pico to 25W in TC-Ni bc the 40W seemed a little harsh. This is a really nice sweet spot for me 25W TC-Ni at 300F.

If other find the same as me, they will need to move their TC max wattages up somewhat compared to v2.5s.

Maybe if the official wattage recommendation for the 2.5 was not so safe and inflexibly conservative, (and higher wattages within reason were embraced) then people wouldn't be misinforming themselves with this irrelevant information right now. Some users will be very safe and conservative. But it should not be hard to figure out if you know the relationship between ohms, watts and volts. (not everyone)

This is a brave new donut world now, and we need to collab' to find the best settings for different users' desired vaping styles. It will not be the same for everyone, using different mods.

 

[auntsuzie]

Thank you Fuck Combustion staff and members.
This is for everyone of you that supported me up to this point.
I would not be here without you
DISCOUNT LINK Click HERE
PLEASE PASS ALONG TO YOUR FRIENDS IF YOU WISH.
FRIDAY I WILL BE SHIPPING THE 1ST BATCH OF V3s. they are coming in Thursday. Please direct questions about the v3 directly to my email matt@ineedhemp.com I will not be able to check this blog to much and read every post..
This is the version "3.0" The hits you get from it are amazing, and you can finally take this thing apart and clean it.
The donut jumped in size from 7mm to 13mm. i am still working on the smaller donut 7mm and 10mm rebuilds. Either i am very impatient or just getting this device to its present state seemed to take forever.. Now that we finally have a rebuild that is worthy. My next step is to get this puppy offgas tested .

http://ineedhemp.com/product/divine...mic-donut-atomizer-fcombustion-discount-link/

here is a discount link to everyone who see this post, It might not be up for long, feel free to email me to discuss distribution in your area.

damn those fc savings, definitely gonna grab one

 

[auntsuzie]

will replacement cups/donuts be up on the site soon?

 

[flamethrownlove]

Anyone know the diameter of the V3?

I have a Knight v1 and the v3 coming in the mail tomorrow but didn't even think about it potentially being too fat for a side loading mod. The knight can fit tanks up to 23mm...

 

[StickyShisha2]

the v3 fits perfectly on my white Pico, and looks sexy.

im still figuring out its power needs. I can't do testing the way i did with the 2.5 to really dial in the TCR value because this v3 is too much of a beast for me to keep hitting.

 

[FX]

I'm using a TCR of 245 with 32w with a temp of 350-380. I haven't broken anything yet and feel like I'm getting better hits. This is a first for me so I have nothing to compare to.

I put food grade silicone spray on the mouthpiece to smoothen up the o-rings. It's much easier to pull off and on now and yeah, yeah I know ... I drink from the garden hose too.

 

[divinetribe]

will replacement cups/donuts be up on the site soon?

yes , i will hopefully have all the parts that make up the v3 and be able to sell them all separately by mid oct, 2 extras come with the package already , i will also have them in 3 different ohm settings, right now they are the .4-.6ohm, i will offer those + .8-1.1ohm and 1.7-2.1ohm

 

[clearlight]

i’m back up to 40W now and loving it. And for comparison I was a 15W guy on the 2.5s. Tried as high as 50W and it survived one load without any immediately apparent damage.

And the 245 does seem best so far in my testing. I tested from 100->600 at intervals of 50. 250 seemed better than 300 or 200. and any higher or lower than that range got even worse. So 250 won my experimental competition, which yeah, 245.

Looking forward to the smaller donuts, I didn’t really need a bigger donut, just a fully rebuildable and soakable one. Would love to hear some reports of big load experiments on this 13mm donut though..

And the higher resistance donuts excite me even more. recently i’d gone back to some of those 2.5s Matt had w the higher resistance. they weigh in at 1.35-.145 and they work in TC on the newer mods. I’ve been liking those lately.

 

[Haywood]

My V3 arrived this weekend while I was on the road, but I've been playing for an hour or so, and I have a few observations.

I never ordered a V2.7, only the V2.5 (and some black clones), so the V3 mouthpiece is new to me. Haven't at all made up my mind about it, but my first thoughts are that I don't care for the larger size in my mouth (yeah, yeah), but I do appreciate the sputter guard construction. I'll see after I actually use it a while. I wish the V2.5 mouthpiece fit the V3 atty, but it doesn't.

When I got my first V2 DT atty, long before I loaded any concentrate, I experimented initially with the power setting (not TC, just power, to start) until I reached a wattage that just caused the disk to start to barely glow red. This is the most power I ever wanted to put through the disk, and it took a number of seconds (>10 from cold) to start glowing. It turned out to be 12.5W with the V2 DT atty, which had a cold resistance of ~ 0.67Ω, as I recall. I also noted that the resistance rose to ~1.1Ω just as the disk started to glow. (When I was cleaning it, I would switch from TC to Power mode and use a tiny bit more power (14W-15W), but would limit the time I would allow it to glow, usually by pulsing it).

Once I knew the resistance of the disk at the maximum temperature I wanted to allow (irrespective of what temperature it was), I switched my MOD to TC/Ni mode, and adjusted the temperature settings so that the power was being limited when the (hot) resistance reached 1.1Ω. In my case, using the Joyetech eVic VTC Mini, I found that setting the TC mode to Ni, the desired temperature to 420°F, and the maximum power to 12.5W did the trick. I didn't bother with using the TCR settings instead of the Ni settings because everything worked exactly as I wanted using the Ni/420°F/12.5W settings. It's not that I couldn't get it to work properly using the TCR mode, it just wasn't necessary since I didn't care if the 420°F temp setting was accurate or not (it most likely wasn't). I just wanted to make sure the disk got hot enough to vaporize the content in a reasonable amount of time, but never got hot enough to cause the disk to glow red (i.e., the resistance never went over 1.1Ω). If one wants the temperature setting to be accurate, then using the TCR mode is the only way to go. (Though if you've read this thread you'll know that getting an accurate reading of the actual temperature of the disk is NOT easy).

So I've been playing with the V3 using the same "technique". My V3's cold resistance is 0.47Ω and it takes 19W-20W to get the disk to start glowing. Below that I can power it until the cows come home and it won't glow. Even set to 20W it takes more than 10 seconds to get a faint glow. When it starts to glow, the V3's hot resistance is ~0.80Ω. So it seems to have a slightly smaller resistance change from room temp to just glowing than the V2 did. (1.1Ω - 0.67Ω = 0.43Ω versus 0.80Ω - 0.47Ω = 0.33Ω). I just started playing with this, so I'm not yet sure the V3 "hot" resistance is perfectly accurate. It may wind up being 0.75Ω instead of 0.80Ω, I want to do a little more testing. With the V3, if I leave the setting in TC/Ni, setting the temp to 300°F causes it to limit at 0.71Ω. 320°F at 0.74Ω. 340°F at 0.77Ω. 360°F at 0.80Ω. Remember, since I'm not using a calculated TCR, temperatures will NOT be accurate (unless there's a monumental coincidence). The temperature setting is only used to properly limit how hot I want the donut to get, even though I have no idea what the actual temperature is. I'll put some concentrate in the V3 later, and fool around some more. I trim the temp setting a bit to suit the concentrate anyway. Plus sooner or later @OF will get a DT V3 atty and figure out the proper TCR value to make the temp setting somewhat accurate.

Also note that the V3 DT atty requires about 1.6 times the power that the V2 DT atty did, so your battery run time is going to be less...


For those of you with the Joyetech eVic VTC Mini, there are two new firmware updates. Both now support an initial "boost" mode, where you can set an initial wattage and duration. (So you can have the main wattage set for 12.5W, and also have it supply, e.g., 25W for 1 second before dropping down to 12.5W). This will allow you to heat the disk more rapidly without continuously supplying a higher power than you desire. I have not experimented with this yet though, so I don't know if it is appropriate/desirable for the DT attys. It might allow you to safely speed up the initial time before the concentrate starts vaporizing without risking burning of either the load or the disk. The difference between the two new firmwares is the display. The 5.04 firmware has a horrible circular display; the 3.04 firmware has the same great display as the previous versions. Both support the new "boost" mode. Gotta love Joyetech for their continual useful firmware updates, with both Mac and PC updaters available.

 

[Steven]

@Haywood that's a funny coincidence. I guess good minds think alike. I've done the barely glow test for years trying to figure out my preferred settings. I also came to your conclusions and numbers about 20w being the wattage where the donut barely starts to glow. Ever since mods came out with all the readings on display, I just use the readings to see what will work on the old donuts to see what works with the newer ones. Nice solid post. Thanx for sharing the goods

 

[Steven]

@Haywood[/USER] that's a funny coincidence. I guess good minds think alike. I've done the barely glow test for years trying to figure out my preferred settings. I also came to your conclusions and numbers about 20w being the wattage where the donut barely starts to glow. Ever since mods came out with all the readings on display, I just use the readings to see what will work on the old donuts to see what works with the newer ones. This takes the guess work and trial and error out of it kinda. Nice solid post. Thanx for sharing the goods

Idk why my edit turned into a double post

 

[Raz0r]

Protection is just what it says when it reaches your set temp. With your current TCR values 300 is too low obviously. Don't be scared to turn the temp up. I am hitting mine on 500 degrees (390 is my norm) through water right now on TCR 245 at 15 watts and it's fine. These things are cheap enough and last long enough even with constant abuse. Don't be afraid to turn it up! I used to run my old ones on wattage mode at 14 watts, try that and you will definitely get hits.

Thanks, will try it on new one, because today have killed my 2.7 donut 50w*2sec. Forgot change from 510 nail

 

[OF]

So it seems to have a slightly smaller resistance change from room temp to just glowing than the V2 did. (1.1Ω - 0.67Ω = 0.43Ω versus 0.80Ω - 0.47Ω = 0.33Ω). I just started playing with this, so I'm not yet sure the V3 "hot" resistance is perfectly accurate. It may wind up being 0.75Ω instead of 0.80Ω,

I trim the temp setting a bit to suit the concentrate anyway. Plus sooner or later @OF will get a DT V3 atty and figure out the proper TCR value to make the temp setting somewhat accurate.

Also note that the V3 DT atty requires about 1.6 times the power that the V2 DT atty did, so your battery run time is going to be less...

Interesting. Your thinking is a bit off, though. We want percentage of change not absolute change in Ohms. With your numbers I get a 65% for the V2 and 70% for the V3? Given the subjective nature of the comparison I'd say a 5% match is pretty darn good, wouldn't you? The same material seems to be being used for the heater (as we suspected) so the same TCR value (245) should be a good starting place.

That's where I'll probably start when I get mine later this week and get around to it. I intend to start with 245 and say 350F and walk it up slowly.

What I find interesting is the power needed is not higher still. The disk is about twice the diameter? If it scaled up directly it would need closer to four times the power......based on area alone. There's some 'savings' in having 'less edge for the area' of course, but it seems to me that the heater must be covering less of the available area.......which should be a good thing in that more concentrate can be loaded so you can vape more between refills.......

FWIW I'm not all that big on the V2.7 top either. But it's nice to have options.

Thanks for the post, food for thought.

OF

 

[Haywood]

I just loaded some concentrate (discussion and math being one thing, vaping concentrate another ) and it's a little anemic in TC/Ni/360°F, but I've been thinking about either upping the temp a little or trying out the new function in the eVic mini firmware and boosting the starting power to 25W for the first second or so. I haven't taken the V3 apart, but finally being able to clean a DT atty is a great thing... More later.

 

[KeroZen]

I'm not sure this "boost" feature is a good thing for the longevity of your heating element. It might not be glowing red during the initial boost but it will still see a higher current.

Also are you sure that the firmware is smart enough not to apply boost when the coil is already close or at temperature? I mean, on my custom 510 dry herb attys or in the Project, I get the impression that if I pulse the trigger on the evic VTC mini it can already overshoot and gets hotter than if I hold the trigger straight and let the mod enter protection and cycle.

Some mods have awfully slow update rates too for their TC mode, the DNA ones are said to be the top, while the evic is ok at best. It's simple to see using any bare coil in your 510 atty of choice: keep the trigger on with a setting where the coil is visibly glowing. You will see that the color will alternate from glowing to not glowing in a rather slow cycle frequency. I'm not sure it's only due to the sampling rate, the protection mechanism implementation also comes into play... but I'm drifting!

 

[OF]

I'm not sure this "boost" feature is a good thing for the longevity of your heating element. It might not be glowing red during the initial boost but it will still see a higher current.

I agree, and in fact will take it a step or two more, I'm pretty sure it's a very bad idea from a heater preservation POV. We're using an average change across a wide assortment of conditions, for sure such a 'flash heating' will effect some parts more than others. More importantly, I think it'll be hardest on the attachment of the leads, they will see much more stress this way I bet.

I think it's going to be thermal stresses which are more damaging usually at a faster rate rather than the absolute temperature reached. They don't 'burn out' as much as wear out under cycle use?

A metal coil of wire, mechanically clamped, like in normal e-cig applications is another matter most likely.

Same as you can also drive your car with 'burning rubber off the line' and 'full on panic stops' and stay under the speed limit and stop for every light on the way to work blowing and get to work faster. But there you sacrifice other things like your MPG and brake pad life, wearing tires out faster and needing a new car/engine sooner. Same as you (at least) should 'warm up your car's engine gradually before demanding full power', I'd advise some caution here?

OF

 

[FX]

I'm cleaning my V3 for the first time and have a question if anyone is familiar with the location of the ceramic ring.

The ring is suspended about a millimeter or two above the cup. This is causing a bit of a rattle with the cup because it is between the ceramic ring and the deck posts which are gapped. Because the deck is rebuildable, can I loosen the terminals and sit the ring directly to the bottom of the cup? So that it's all right and holding together? I feel this would allow the bottom of the ring to cook anything that may melt under it and even prevent it from doing so.

 

[divinetribe]

I'm cleaning my V3 for the first time and have a question if anyone is familiar with the location of the ceramic ring.

The ring is suspended about a millimeter or two above the cup. This is causing a bit of a rattle with the cup because it is between the ceramic ring and the deck posts which are gapped. Because the deck is rebuildable, can I loosen the terminals and sit the ring directly to the bottom of the cup? So that it's all right and holding together? I feel this would allow the bottom of the ring to cook anything that may melt under it and even prevent it from doing so.

I would keep the donut As tight to the cup as possible

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

I've had about 6 sessions with my V3's by now, and DAMN this thing is s beast! A hog!

But it is a civilized, refined, hoggish beast. The vapor flow is amazing, but the flavor and vapor quality is just as great; about the same as the v2.5.

With TCR 245, I've tried 30, 32, and 35 watts, and starting temps from 330-360F, and it blows through the usual 20-50mg sized loads we put on the 2.5 in a single huge pull, maybe leaving a tiny bit oil left on the donut / cup if my meager lungs are filled, mid-puff. Normally, I would take at least 4-10 hits to clear that amount on the 2.5.

I've put on cheap waxy crumbles, shatters, and some live resin so far, (but not co2 yet) and they all work great.

Before I load these new v3's up, I am dry firing them a few times and watching them heat up, and taking some puffs from the empty atty. It smells / tastes like nothing at all, other than hot air. It will be interesting to see the off-gassing test results from these things. With the materials, (steel, copper, ceramic, silicon and nichrome?) I see no reason to expect anything nasty, foul, or harmful that should not be in our vape / air supply. What other vape companies are even trying to do this?

I think it's great that Matt has aimed to make these devices truly capable of being "medical grade" and I have full faith the lab results will show that.

A few questions for @divinetribe at this point:

Regarding the upcoming medium and small size (10 & 7mm) donuts that you're still working on:

• will we be able to convert our large size V3 housings to the medium and small donuts simply by swapping out the cup / donut part to M or S, or will the cups for the M and S size donuts be different enough from L as to require a complete different outer ceramic housing to go with it also?

• for heat cleaning / burning clean the new donuts: what watts setting on VW mode should we use to burn it clean? should we blow through the side air holes while powering it to blow out the crust and reclaim like on the v2.5 right?

• What is the highest wattage setting you recommend for use on temp control modes?

Since you're using the istick 40w TC, that means 40, at least. I suspect 50w might be ok too, but probably not much more than that

• Is there any reason why the end-users should remove / unscrew / alter the copper, flat-head, positive 510-slot screw on the bottom of the atty?

I am assuming that is just full of the copper post that leads up to the top of the deck, and it's isolated from the rest of the metal base with a thin silicon layer, so we have no need to touch that part?

yes , i will hopefully have all the parts that make up the v3 and be able to sell them all separately by mid oct, 2 extras come with the package already , i will also have them in 3 different ohm settings, right now they are the .4-.6ohm, i will offer those + .8-1.1ohm and 1.7-2.1ohm

Interesting...more resistance ranges for the same donut sizes? What is the purpose / intent of offering more resistance choices?

Wouldn't the higher resistance donuts use up more milliamp-hours of battery life to achieve the same heating and vaping effects as the lower resistance equivalents?

The low-resistance donuts are generally preferable, aren't they? Don't they tend to be controlled by TC more effectively?

Thanks again for all your efforts to bring us this game-changing device, Matt.

 

[Steven]

So idk about everyone else but I've done a full complete breakdown cleaning twice already. Honestly I have different heat setting for cleaning compared to many. On the 2.5 base I used 10.5-11w for cleaning.

For the v3 I do a complete disassemble and soak everything in alcohol. While soaked in alcohol I use a sewing needle to scrape and clean the parts. I use a sewing needle to agitate the reclaim out of the posts while under alcohol. Also, I use a sewing needle to scrap the cup and underside of the donut clean while soaked in alcohol. I never scrap the top side of the donut. The setup basically can get brand new and white again if cleaned properly. Mine looks brand new. Once everything is clean and dry I reassemble and dry burn off the alcohol and any remains residue at 21w. I power the v3 at 21w until it glows

It's noteworthy to mention that in my first run at this I began first with removing the housing and flipping the unit upside down and began the usual 21w and letting the reclaim drip out as I wipe away. I was trying to remove as much reclaim as I can before disassembly. This did do that, but it also burned reclaim into the cup and underside of the donut, making it very hard to clean out. It's possible to get it out but just much harder. Also, you can probably only get away with cleaning the v3 using old methods only a few times before you will get leaks I'm assuming. More specifically I mean if u don't want to take off the housing and just flip the whole unit upside down, it will probably leak after a few cleaning sessions.

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Good notes, I haven't cleaned any of mines yet.

For the ceramic cup, don't you think, that after soaking it iso and rinsing, you can burn it clean with a mini-torch (with the donut removed, of course) while you hold it with some tweezers to get the cup pearly white again?

Kinda like what @fernand is doing with his little crucibles?

And sorry fern, the airflow is coming straight from the bottom, not the side, so I don't think the crucible method will work with V3. But maybe someone should buy a ~ 10mm or so crucible and put it in their v3 and try it? There's plenty of space in there...

And speaking of inserts...I got the idea that maybe we can make a quick, on-demand convection flower vape out of the v3.0 donut if we try a little stainless steel insert for flowers?

These stainless steel dosing capsules for the volcano easy valve came out a while ago, and maybe if we drop one of these inside our new large donuts, and find the right settings, we can make a fairly cheap, effective convection vape out it?

It would be mostly convection, because this thing has copious airflow, coming in underneath the donut, it will be pre-heated air flowing through. I've warmed up my new large donuts when it's empty and blown air through it from the side air holes, and felt the hot air coming out from the donut! Enough hot air to convect?

I'm trying to find out the exact size of these things but I'm guessing they're about 10mm diameter and maybe 5-8mm tall? I think they will fit inside the V3 and be heavy enough to not be lifted by a user's breath.

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Not too many pics up yet, how bout the first round of raunchy

version 3.0 dough nut pr0n ! ! ! ! !

clean donut

now with a little bit of shatter. To try and pre-melt, or evenly distribute the little shard of shatter, i pre-warmed the donut with nothing on it, let it cool for a couple seconds, then started smearing my tool with the shatter over the disc. it started bubbling and vaping the oil on contact, though, (terp loss ) so i should have let it cool down a little more, even though it did what I wanted, more or less. i think it vapes better if you try to spread your oil evenly over the large disc rather than lumping it in one big compact ball in one spot.

ok these are gonna get raunchy now...real dirty. @KeroZen's, the prude, faint-hearted, children and the elderly should avert their gaze from these dirty discs.

Spoiler: click here for dirty donut prawn

this is what's left after one massive gale of live-resin vape. the little yellow schmear in the middle of the donut still looks good

And a little splatter on the side. there's also a small crease or notch where the cup seals to the main ceramic body, a little reclaim will accumulate there.

I put some crumbles, then 2 shatters on this disc on the evic basic. This is whats left, not too bad. These hoggish V3 donuts will test the battery life on this tiny mod now.

I placed 2 bb's of shatter in one un-melted ball then vaped it in this pic above. Maybe it would have left less of a char mark if I spread the bb and pre-melted it some?

Side view

Ok here's the grossest one I piled on a large sprinkling of some cheap fatty crumble break downs all over this donut, got 1 huge cloud, then a couple meager reclaimy hits after, this is what's left. It's not vaping off at reasonable temps, it has to be burned off.

But don't those little melted yellow specs in the middle look good still?

 

[Steven]

It seems many characteristics are exaggerated with the v3 from the v2.5. This time I'm talking about effects after cleaning. When fully cleaned the donut will need a few bowls before it will put out massive amounts of vapor. The v3 needs a bit more priming than the v2.5. The collected reclaim from previous bowls probably is what is giving off massive vapor later on but I like that. But I also like a clean donut so this will be a battle for me. It's just I gotta be prepared to get 3 wispy bowls or so if I clean the v3. I used to clean my donuts about 2-3 times a day, but it's probably gonna be once a day or every other day now with the v3

@Vape Donkey 650. Yes I'm sure u can clean the cup with a torch. However, I actually don't even own a torch anymore. I got rid of that setup years ago and never really liked using a torch.