Divine Tribe atty's

[FMSQ]

More people getting their QQ's, some having some issues, others pretty smooth, seems about 50/50 at this point. Regardless, I'm sure Matt will make sure all the early purchasers of the QQ will get the same units and parts that third, fourth, 5th and future production runs of this product, and he'll do as much as he can to help you get your QQ's vaping right.

For the early purchasers of the DTV2, do you remember all the free DTV2.5 atomizers you received shortly after? (Go, big airflow holes!)

After my first weekend of playing with the QQ was free of technical glitches, I had one tiny issue: from puffing too hard on the mouthpiece, I caused a little trickle of oil to spill over and splash one of the posts and wire leads for the ceramic rods. This only caused my Ω to rise from a fairly stable 0.25 to a slightly shaky 0.26-0.29 at rest. It still worked and fired up fine in TC, but bothered me. Finally, one time it slipped to over 0.3 upon waking up and kicked to watts mode before fiiring, so I decided I should break it down for the first cleaning. @OF had a great verbal description of the parts on the QQ, so here is a pic showing that:

Cup with rods still inside, saddle, post screws and 510 pin with insulator (what material is that? is that what burned on you @Danksta?) and then the main metal base and, lets call it, floating post? Positive post?

It was a little tricky to bend the lead wires for the rods and cram them into the posts. I made a small chip off the quartz tunnel for the rods break off securing the wires , but it's ok. When I screwed the center 510 pin all the way with a flathead (too tight) it made the coil read 0.025, atomizer low! But I backed off the screw a half turn or so, and back to 0.26Ω! A little more work than the V3, but not very hard to rebuild the QQ.


@FMSQ great first post on FC for us! Nice review and great pics! I largely agree with your post, and it's nice to see someone else using the QQ with a nice glass setup!

@JigMelon nice work with the VVM atty and quartz cup! It seems a little tenuous, and I didn't think it could be made to work with that atty in particular, but you did it. If the quartz cup is going to work well with other RBAs, it will most likely have post-less, flat build decks. I hope everyone will be on the lookout for other RBAs that may handle the quartz cup well, something might be out there.

Anyways, I had many test sessions with my QQ over the weekend. On an eleaf invoke with 2 fresh VTC6 batteries, I was getting at least 10-12 full sessions, with a couple of burn-offs as well, before I had only 30% charge, so that was a little better than I expected. Although @ArchVape showed you can power this thing fine with a single 18650, you would probably get less than half the sessions with a single cell than you could get with 2 equivalent cells because you don't work the batteries as hard during use.

This is how I connected it to my rigs at first:

Although I felt that hose was too long, so I put a little 14/14 m/m adapter on top the QQ cap to make a shorter, more direct tube and I like this better.

I was able to get decent results without water, puffing straight off the cap, but I would have to take shorter puffs and the harshness would test my throat and cause me to cough mildly at times, usually after the 3rd-4th puff after the cup gets fully heat soaked.

Going through glass, I was able to get some good sessions too, but I would have to take much longer puffs to get a satisfying cloud, instead of being able to nibble quick, large clouds directly off the MP with no water. (because of the longer vapor path)

And with having to take longer puffs to fill the dab rig with the QQ, it would be challenging to keep the cup from overheating. Sometimes I would pulse the button just right and be able to coast the 2nd, 3rd, 4th puff to perfection, great taste, not too hot, allowing me to rapidly return to the next puff to finish the bowl. About 2-3 minutes seems like a good time frame to fully enjoy a QQ session, as some of the videos have shown. Then the cloud tapers off as only dark reclaim oil is left in the cup, and you can quickly swab this up to keep your cup tidy.

But at other times, I have held the button down for too long during puffs, and overheated the cup, causing overly harsh hits causing me to cough and pause momentarily, all the while the rest of my dab is still cooking in that QC which holds its heat much longer than a donut, almost like a real quartz banger. If I have to wait 30 second or so to regain my breath, that reclaim has gotten pretty crusty and cooked, and is no longer pleasant to puff on, and my cotton swab comes out much more soaked, feeling like a more wasteful session.

So basically, it may take some more technique and practice to fully utilize this atty. Compared to the DTV3, which still requires a certain range of permissible pull/draw methods to not "mess up" it seems the QQ requires more judgement and timing and discipline. It's a ton of fun when you get it just right. As much as I like it so far, it isn't going to replace my V3s as the daily driver just yet....

A few more tips now that I've used it more: (could be repeating others)

• Pre-heat the cup until you see vapor rising and wisping up before you start your draw

• Take a long, slow draw to get the best results, especially through a larger glass piece. Although when the cup is cooking, it is possible to get nice, big, quick nibble-draws using just the MP dry

• Pulse the power button after good vapor production is achieved. Pulse the button for 2-5 seconds at a time with short breaks, not 8-10 seconds at a time. Based on your draw technique and mod settings, you will have to adjust and use your judgement

• Swivel the cap during use to target oil on the other side of the cup. Perhaps swivel the cap only CW (not CCW) so you don't accidentally unscrew the atty from your mod with tight-fitting o-rings by trying to only swivel the cap?

• Don't puff on the MP too hard or oil can jump the cup and spill over. Don't overload, 20-40mg, about the same you would load your V3, is a good amount. Keep it level, don't tilt that much.

(i could have loaded a tiny bit more up there)

Regarding temp stability, I tried very hard to dial in the QQ for low-temp hits with mixed results. I tried to match settings to vape with the cup surface around 450F, but this made for weak, dribbly hits that wasted my oil. Moving up to around 500-520F, I was able to get strong, satisfying vape that tasted good as long as I didn't let the cup overheat.

The problem remains for me: if you continue to hold the button down for several 15 second time-outs, the cup temp will continue to rise well above 500, to 600F if you don't give it a break! Although with some settings, I was able to see the cup remain around 480-500F, or at least rise above that temp at a rate much slower than the initial temp rise, giving you a chance to pulse the button and avoid overheat.

The settings that seemed to help me match screens and cup temps:

TCR = 240
Watts = 60
Temp = 490-510F

PI = 900, 20 also seemed to help hold it stable for a little longer than without PI control

How long you hold the button down influences the actual cup temp more than some of those settings, it seems, but at least I was able to keep screen/cup temps somewhat close in the 20-40 second time range.

Thanks for the breakdown photos of the quest. The pulse method to retain the cup temperature is useful, much appreciated.
I will try your settings on my vapecige sd75c (dna75c) and on my voopoo newbie (gene). I have success without TCR, but this is where I want to learn more (using TCR).

The adapter on the quest is a modified Camelbak Kid's Eddy Kids Bite Valve that I use to connect to the HVT glass rig adapter.

Here's some photos I took this morning: (mini imgur album here)

 

[2clicker]

Plus, a warm alumina cup would (almost) swab clean after use as easily as a hot quartz crucible!

i wanna see a nice powered SiC cup. i know Source Vapes makes a SiC cup atty but its heated at the bottom only. been considering trying one.

regarding a DNA chipped device that was the size, or similar, to a vtwo/vtc mini... this was a requirement for me as well when i went from Joyetech to DNA. it was very important for me to have this size. and if you look, even though the looking can be daunting, they are out there. the one im about to suggest is not in production anymore, but there are more out there. and can be had for $40-50. its almost the exact same size as my vtwo/vtc mini devices. its a few mm thicker, but the other dimentions are very close. side by side with the vtc minis you can hardly tell at all. i fucking love this thing. my joyetech devices are now back up devices.

EDIT: its also lighter than any of my joyetech devices because its machined from billet aluminum and not whatever cheap metal like most other brands.

Volcano LavaBox M

btw... dont everyone go out and buy the rest of these out! i want to get another. lol

@Vape Donkey 650... the issue with joyetech devices is the 510 pin not giving a solid resistance reading. if the chip isnt gettin as good of a resistance reading all the time, how can it give as good temp control as devices with proper grounding? it just isnt gonna happen regardless of what firmware is installed on the chip.

heres the quote from the people at AF themselves

“the main hardware problem is in connection of negative 510 post (threading) to common ground. It is not connected by wire (as on Pico), it is just press fitted in body. And common ground from PCB goes on body through screws. The saddest situation is in Predator, the grounding passes through the body through a variety of compounds, which can not in any way provide a good contact. No solid contact - the resistance is incorrectly measured, it is usually overestimated on atomizer detect. Then you press Fire, the current (compared to the measuring one) increases significantly, somewhere the contact gets better, and the box measures the resistance already lower than in the idle time, which is actually the right one.”

same thing with the inadequate gauge of wire used in the other models. seems the eleaf products may not suffer from this issue.

regardless it doesnt mean that joyetech products are bad. they are great! just not as accurate as other devices on the market. and not all cost much more money. so are the joyetech devices, with AF, as accurate as others? no. tons of data can be found to support this, BUT... will it affect your vaping experience...? thats up to you. many people use and love them as they should.

 

[Bad Ocelot]

If I can observe my V3 donuts powered joyetech & eleaf mods running AF with PI control to display temperature stability that steadily hovers within 2-3F from my target, as I can see with an IR gun tuned to e=0.65 at a wide range of temperatures, and confirmed with the NFE device monitor, what more can I realistically expect then, and how much does the thickness of the leads on my 510 connector really matter?

All you need to set are 4 figures: TCR, watts, lock a good coil Ω, and PI figures. Get those right, and you should have a broad, usable sweep of around 300-500F where you can observe accurate temps.

Even with AF and no PI control, with a stable, accurate coil Ω locked in, I would observe normal temp oscillations around 5-7F and only a small initial overshoot. Even with the crappy stock firmware, 10-15F swings would be the typical observation on any large alumina ceramic heater that could fill up the aperature on my IR gun. Yes, there are better ways to take temp measurements than IR guns, of course, but I think that @funkyjunky's tests in dialing in the tubo evic with the "tubomyevic" software attests to the capabilities of even these "budget / entry level mods"

I've been wondering about this too. What is the maximum benefit of the higher end chipsets? I've been considering picking up one for quite a while now, I just can't imagine that the benefit would be worth both the added cost as well as the time spent learning & setting up new software, setting curves etc. Though my arguably unhealthy desire for infinite tinkering has had my interest piqued for about a year now, ha.

...the issue with joyetech devices is the 510 pin not giving a solid resistance reading. if the chip isnt gettin as good of a resistance reading all the time, how can it give as good temp control as devices with proper grounding? it just isnt gonna happen regardless of what firmware is installed on the chip.

heres the quote from the people at AF themselves

“the main hardware problem is in connection of negative 510 post (threading) to common ground. It is not connected by wire (as on Pico), it is just press fitted in body. And common ground from PCB goes on body through screws. The saddest situation is in Predator, the grounding passes through the body through a variety of compounds, which can not in any way provide a good contact. No solid contact - the resistance is incorrectly measured, it is usually overestimated on atomizer detect. Then you press Fire, the current (compared to the measuring one) increases significantly, somewhere the contact gets better, and the box measures the resistance already lower than in the idle time, which is actually the right one.”

I could see how this could affect crazy low resistance builds, especially with SS316, but given the QQ is about the lowest resistance concentrate atty I've come across, and that the stated resistance of the QQ coils (as well as donut resistance in other DT products) is within 0-5 hundredths of an ohm of the resistance the mod is detecting, I just don't know how clinically significant that added resolution could be for our purposes. All this being said, I still kinda want one, ha.

I'm also curious, do any of the premium chipsets seem better for DT & similar products? DNA, Gene, HSK, YiHi... I don't really know the difference... I assume they all have a PC interface?

Well, since you mentioned it, and the naughty mid-sized wild feline got into it, I went and plugged those familiar values into my QQ profile for AF, since we have known 900, 20 (or close) to help tame and control ceramic donuts in a variety of applications.

Having a session with PI 900, 20, the calculated temp #s on the screen ramp up a little more slowly as it reaches protection, and it hits protection much less, hardly at all, from what I see, hovering 2-4F under my target most of the time. I just had a couple sessions like this, but it doesn't seem to make a big difference in the vape experience with the QQ. It still takes about the same time to warm up (long) although when I looked at the cup with my IR gun set to e=0.93 it seems that adding PI control helped attain a longer period of temp stability and matching of the cup / screen temp. After reaching ~480 somewhat fast, it slowly rose to around 500F, but continuing to fire the button without pause let the cup rise to 520F and higher, which is too hot for me. A better vape with the QQ and more PI tuning may be attainable with more testing, but I think it may be necessary to hold off on the button periodicially and pulse the button still after the cup has reached ideal vaping temps. Cmon you PI guys....

Glad to know PI values do have some... value here Hopefully someone more knowledgeable than I will chime in to let us know if they can be further optimized. Though from your testing it doesn't look like there's just a whole lot of room for improvement.

I've definitely been feathering the power, even though I've been using TC, at about the same rate that I do with the Gen2 to avoid the burnt popcorn taste that can occur with flower vapes. And truth be told, I don't know if it'll be possible to fix that via TC settings without significantly increasing warm up time. Since the ceramic heaters heat up much more quickly than the quartz cup, and the only way to get the cup up to temp quickly is to overshoot the temp you want on the coils, and the only way to reduce the highest temp the cup will reach is to reduce the max heater temp, it seems we may be at a bit of an impasse. Although if I had a full day of free time & a better IR gun I might could tinker with wattage & temp curves enough to significantly mitigate this issue, but I don't know that I could solve it, plus I never have that much free time Of course, if we're willing to make some sacrifices with ramp up time, the problem becomes a bit easier.

I've been thinking the same. My vaping habits up until recently had been easily powered by mods with a single, aged, worn 18650. But with the QQ now, (and my tubo evic pushes a cell's limits too) and some of those multi-donut RBAs I've been working on, my single cell mods and non-removable battery mods don't seem up to all of the vape tasks I would ask of them. High discharge cells and 2 cell mods are more necessary and attractive to me now.

The new 20700's seem to thread a needle in between one and two 18650s mods very well, and seem to over-perform for their size. Where I would once overlook 20700 and 26650s as excessive, I should look closer at them in the future, but I already have way too many mods!

Same, I've got a few single 18650 mods, and a slew of internal LiPo cell mods which have all been more than adequate. The only multi-cell mod I have is an old RX200 with the original firmware & that's pretty much dedicated to the Gen2 at this point, ha. Gonna try and time an order from hohmtech to be delivered around the same time as my invoke. Now to decide between their higher discharge rate cells & the higher mAh cells... Leaning towards higher discharge rate at the moment, even though it'll mean slightly more frequent recharging. I've been running the QQ on my Pico, as I figured if it's good enough for Matt it's good enough for me but I really don't like how hot the mod gets during a session.

Speaking of the Invoke, I wish I'd seen the Wismec RX2 before I ordered the Invoke... it's only marginally bigger (35x82x43mm vs 27x72x45mm) and holds 2 20700 cells, which would be more than enough amperage for the QQ without even really stressing the batteries at all. The Invoke certainly looks more pocket friendly, but given that the QQ isn't really an "out & about" type device, the added size & weight of the RX2 isn't much of an issue as it will mostly only be on my coffee table & in my vape cabinet. In fact the shape looks as if it would be harder to inadvertently tip over whilst on my coffee table than the Invoke.

 

[Bad Ocelot]

Damnit... I also hit the 10K character limit... sorry for the double post, but I'm not an editor

I had my hopes on a DT version of a sealed ceramic cup with leads soldered on it, like the source terra, but also with better, targeted airflow, since I had shared @Hoosier 's suspicion that the lack of direct airflow on a heated ceramic cup would hinder vapor production.

It turns out, it was not so easy to design and produce a working ceramic cup like that as it might seem. (Matt's been trying) Maybe this type of heater with a good targeted-airflow atty can still be perfected in the near-future, it's not impossible. The larger the alumina heater, the slower it will take to heat up, like the DC Gen 2 heater, to make it not suitable for quick dabbing. And if we could get that nice sized ceramic cup that heats up quickly and accurately, with the sides too, I wouldn't even bother dropping a quartz cup inside of it! I'd just dab straight off that! Adding a QC to a ceramic cup would just make the heat-up time longer, and a bare ceramic cup without an insert could cool-down quicker after hits to make reclaim hits for later on a single load more palatable. Plus, a warm alumina cup would (almost) swab clean after use as easily as a hot quartz crucible!

Been thinking about this a little bit too lately... What if we're thinking the wrong shape... an inverted cone or dome shape with a couple of donut heaters "wrapped" around the outside? Given the shapes of the various DT mouthpieces, curved shapes are clearly not a problem, and we know the donut heaters work like gangbusters, so that might be something to think about. There would be some added ramp up time as the mass of alumina would be larger, but still shorter than the QQ's, which is totally reasonable. Seems like it could work to me, but I could be a bit off

 

[21stCenturyVape]

Discount Link for the Quart Quest

TI wires i wrapped and installed on the Quest in this video

One of the wire leads on the ceramic rods broke off so I ordered myself some USA-made 24 guage titanium grade 1 wire. What settings are you using with the titanium coils to heat up the quartz Quest cup?

 

[2clicker]

I've been wondering about this too. What is the maximum benefit of the higher end chipsets? I've been considering picking up one for quite a while now, I just can't imagine that the benefit would be worth both the added cost as well as the time spent learning & setting up new software, setting curves etc. Though my arguably unhealthy desire for infinite tinkering has had my interest piqued for about a year now, ha.



I could see how this could affect crazy low resistance builds, especially with SS316, but given the QQ is about the lowest resistance concentrate atty I've come across, and that the stated resistance of the QQ coils (as well as donut resistance in other DT products) is within 0-5 hundredths of an ohm of the resistance the mod is detecting, I just don't know how clinically significant that added resolution could be for our purposes. All this being said, I still kinda want one, ha.

I'm also curious, do any of the premium chipsets seem better for DT & similar products? DNA, Gene, HSK, YiHi... I don't really know the difference... I assume they all have a PC interface?



Glad to know PI values do have some... value here Hopefully someone more knowledgeable than I will chime in to let us know if they can be further optimized. Though from your testing it doesn't look like there's just a whole lot of room for improvement.

I've definitely been feathering the power, even though I've been using TC, at about the same rate that I do with the Gen2 to avoid the burnt popcorn taste that can occur with flower vapes. And truth be told, I don't know if it'll be possible to fix that via TC settings without significantly increasing warm up time. Since the ceramic heaters heat up much more quickly than the quartz cup, and the only way to get the cup up to temp quickly is to overshoot the temp you want on the coils, and the only way to reduce the highest temp the cup will reach is to reduce the max heater temp, it seems we may be at a bit of an impasse. Although if I had a full day of free time & a better IR gun I might could tinker with wattage & temp curves enough to significantly mitigate this issue, but I don't know that I could solve it, plus I never have that much free time Of course, if we're willing to make some sacrifices with ramp up time, the problem becomes a bit easier.



Same, I've got a few single 18650 mods, and a slew of internal LiPo cell mods which have all been more than adequate. The only multi-cell mod I have is an old RX200 with the original firmware & that's pretty much dedicated to the Gen2 at this point, ha. Gonna try and time an order from hohmtech to be delivered around the same time as my invoke. Now to decide between their higher discharge rate cells & the higher mAh cells... Leaning towards higher discharge rate at the moment, even though it'll mean slightly more frequent recharging. I've been running the QQ on my Pico, as I figured if it's good enough for Matt it's good enough for me but I really don't like how hot the mod gets during a session.

Speaking of the Invoke, I wish I'd seen the Wismec RX2 before I ordered the Invoke... it's only marginally bigger (35x82x43mm vs 27x72x45mm) and holds 2 20700 cells, which would be more than enough amperage for the QQ without even really stressing the batteries at all. The Invoke certainly looks more pocket friendly, but given that the QQ isn't really an "out & about" type device, the added size & weight of the RX2 isn't much of an issue as it will mostly only be on my coffee table & in my vape cabinet. In fact the shape looks as if it would be harder to inadvertently tip over whilst on my coffee table than the Invoke.

the extra cost for a DNA device doesnt have to be that much. esp in the 75 watt range. and using Escribe is a breaze.

i cannot speak to anything other than joyetech and DNA chips. i do know the Yihi chip is automatically not an option because their firmware includes a dry coil warning that will kill power to the coil as soon as it detects it isnt submerged in juice. i do not know about the other chips, but you can find all kinds of data from ecig reviewers online tracking performance between the dif chips in TC mode. there is tons of that stuff out there.

will you notice a difference between your resistance reading even .01ohm more than what it actually is? when using the QQ...? IMO you will def notice it.

 

[Bad Ocelot]

the extra cost for a DNA device doesnt have to be that much. esp in the 75 watt range. and using Escribe is a breaze.

i cannot speak to anything other than joyetech and DNA chips. i do know the Yihi chip is automatically not an option because their firmware includes a dry coil warning that will kill power to the coil as soon as it detects it isnt submerged in juice. i do not know about the other chips, but you can find all kinds of data from ecig reviewers online tracking performance between the dif chips in TC mode. there is tons of that stuff out there.

will you notice a difference between your resistance reading even .01ohm more than what it actually is? when using the QQ...? IMO you will def notice it.

Glad to know escribe is easy! Most of my (browser) window shopping on the higher end has been for DNA mods. How would you describe the difference? What is it exactly that you notice?

 

[2clicker]

Glad to know escribe is easy! Most of my (browser) window shopping on the higher end has been for DNA mods. How would you describe the difference? What is it exactly that you notice?

i cant say for sure about the QQ. or even donuts because its been a while since i used them, but on my old joyetech stuff i would sometimes trick the chip into thinking the resistance was higher than it was. i would do this by keeping the resistance unlocked, tapping the fire button just a bit to raise the coils resistance by .01-.02ohms, and then locked it there at the warmer resistance. and the result was a far hotter vape than when locked at its “real” cold resistance. in short... its at the wrong temp. so unless im misunderstanding, of which is very possible lol, id say the difference in that .01ohm can be considerable. and i would imagine this would be the case regardless of the material being heated...?

 

[Bad Ocelot]

Having the wrong resistance reading can certainly have downstream effects. When vaping nic juice, where the juice is directly in contact with the coil, this is pretty easily noticeable. However since our wire is encased in ceramic, and in the case of the QQ the ceramic is in contact with the quartz, we're a few degrees removed from the end user of the heat, so to speak. Since it's the ceramic heating the concentrate, or the ceramic heating the quartz heating the concentrate, getting the precise resistance of the wire is a little less important.

To be fair I was initially a little skeptical about flashing AF to my mods as they worked pretty well with stock firmware. I've certainly changed my tune there though as AF makes these considerably more idiot proof in that it's much more difficult to scorch a load or a donut & thus require a premature cleaning. Especially important if you're not the only one using it, ha. Flavor is much more consistent too, as one would expect. So if my skepticism turns out to be unfounded it certainly won't be the first time, I just wonder how much more improvement is feasible to expect. At a certain point it's like getting a TV with better resolution than your eyes.

Some of those VooPoo mods look pretty sweet too, anyone using those or other mods with the Gene chipset?

 

[2clicker]

Having the wrong resistance reading can certainly have downstream effects. When vaping nic juice, where the juice is directly in contact with the coil, this is pretty easily noticeable. However since our wire is encased in ceramic, and in the case of the QQ the ceramic is in contact with the quartz, we're a few degrees removed from the end user of the heat, so to speak. Since it's the ceramic heating the concentrate, or the ceramic heating the quartz heating the concentrate, getting the precise resistance of the wire is a little less important.

To be fair I was initially a little skeptical about flashing AF to my mods as they worked pretty well with stock firmware. I've certainly changed my tune there though as AF makes these considerably more idiot proof in that it's much more difficult to scorch a load or a donut & thus require a premature cleaning. Especially important if you're not the only one using it, ha. Flavor is much more consistent too, as one would expect. So if my skepticism turns out to be unfounded it certainly won't be the first time, I just wonder how much more improvement is feasible to expect. At a certain point it's like getting a TV with better resolution than your eyes.

Some of those VooPoo mods look pretty sweet too, anyone using those or other mods with the Gene chipset?

yeah i can see that with the quartz and probably ceramics too. all in all the normal user will probably never notice a dif between these two brand of chips. in regards to TC. and to be honest in a month this conversation could be old news as the new 2018 mods should start coming out like crazy any day now if they havent started already. we will look back at this and laugh as the new shit will just work.

sucks that AF isn’t available for Mac users yet. or at least wasnt when i first used it. check it out at a buddies house. had him install it, enjoyed it, lent the mod to a buddy and he returned it with the joyetech firmware re-installed on it. havent messed with it since. just been using them as backups, for the spouse, while ive got the DNA out.

id like to see them support Mac users. id be more likely to use my joyetech mods more if i didnt have to go to a buddies house to set up. Escribe is flawless on a Mac.

 

[graydeh1]

I really like Arctic Fox on my Pico 75 watt, especially cuz the display is so small you can set it up on your computer instead.

Using it with my Sequoia so I will try with my quartz Quest as soon as it lands.

 

[looney2nz]

I've got my QQ's, but they will stay in the box until I get over this flu.
OK... now that you've all started this, what preferences are you discovering in 2 cell mods?

 

[JCat]

I got mine in today! I've been fiddling around with it for the better part of the day, and think I'm finally having some pretty good success.

- First few attempts, had trouble trying to dial in settings, and kept going into protection mode w/ the heat sink on (unusable), but worked somewhat without the heat sink.
- tried cleaning up the ends to make sure no burs etc were causing the problem, still no luck
- Removed the screws including the bottom one, and then put everything back in and tightened down well (used my own larger handle #000 Philips instead of the provided one to get them good and tight)
- Tried again, now with stock eleaf pico 75 firmware, and had good results, but burnt the rosin quite a bit after the first hit
- Tried again a couple times since, and have now lowered the wattage to 45W and am no longer burning things, but have to be careful not to hold the button down too long, have to let off once the cup is to temp, and only press off and on to maintain temp as vapour drops off

Think I'll try again with the AF firmware now that I know it's working right and I'm getting a bit of a feel for it

Edit: Ok ... tried a few more with the AF firmware, with really good results! Very happy! Running it with TCR 440, 220F, 45W, P=900, I=20. Seems to be pretty good results! You do have to get a feel for it to let off the button in order to not burn your concentrate, but with the quartz dish and the ability to get a visual on it, plus the feel on the throat, you can dial it in pretty good

 

[divinetribe]

no more green mouthpieces i just found out the green mouthpieces were painted glass. so i did a lead test. fortunately, it came up negative for lead. I was told the paint was non-toxic but i will no longer be selling them because i was under the impression it was real green glass.

 

[JigMelon]

Thanks for looking out for us, @divinetribe

 

[JCat]

Love the transparency!! Super awesome!! (and a great way to get your customers to trust you ... by earning it )

Way to go @divinetribe ... I must say, so far my experience with you has been absolutely top notch ... best service ever

 

[graydeh1]

no more green mouthpieces i just found out the green mouthpieces were painted glass. so i did a lead test. fortunately, it came up negative for lead. I was told the paint was non-toxic but i will no longer be selling them because i was under the impression it was real green glass.

I would not have added it to the order if I had known. Although its nice to have things in hand as fast as we can, I think better beta testing on the actual first production run and qq are a must! I would rather wait than have to possibly reassemble and or use materials Im (we're) not wanting to use.
Matt seems like a standup guy, but this is worrysome.
All di best and cant wait for mine to land.

 

[just_the_flu]

...anyone else break a glass cap yet? mine broke first night putting it back on and a buddy's broke before he used it.. i was going to order another and some parts anyways, just sucks because this thing is a game changer..

...this atomizer is the shit so far! it makes me look at others differently now i will have to wait a week or so to enjoy it more... but i think its worth the wait...

 

[JCat]

I would not have added it to the order if I had known. Although its nice to have things in hand as fast as we can, I think better beta testing on the actual first production run and qq are a must! I would rather wait than have to possibly reassemble and or use materials Im (we're) not wanting to use.
Matt seems like a standup guy, but this is worrysome.
All di best and cant wait for mine to land.

I have to disagree here ... I'm super happy to have gotten it when I did, and so far the problems are minor and were easily fixable. If you aren't comfortable with disassembly and reassembly I'm not sure this is the right device for you (as by nature, you will have to do so to clean and to replace heating coils eventually)

Or maybe I just don't mind being a beta tester?

 

[graydeh1]

Im fine assembing and such, im a technician. What i said was my observation and if your opinion differs thats fine, ill stand by what i said , I ordered knowing all the info about the first run and cant wait for mine to arrive today.
I was saying to me it would have been better if Divine tribe knew he didnt like the green glass and the screws etc. Before release.

And Divine tribe is offering a free shipping label for anyone who wants to return their 0 to 1000 s/n units, class act, great customer support and very active everywhere, but no way am I returning mine.

 

[2clicker]

@divinetribe... are there any plans for a SS cap for the QQ or even donut attys? the direct airflow should still be pretty easily doable.

 

[OF]

I have to disagree here ... I'm super happy to have gotten it when I did, and so far the problems are minor and were easily fixable.

Or maybe I just don't mind being a beta tester?

I too am very happy to be able to get in on this. Despite Matt's history/reputation it is always a bit of a risk with new products. In exchange for that we get a jump on availability. For sure I've bought a lot of vapes that didn't 'measure up', and I'll probably do it again sometime if I'm lucky? This is not one of them I'm thinking.

I disagree a bit, we're not Beta Testers in the traditional sense. That was long ago, those guys were basically secret (every time I've done it it came with a NDA, Non Disclosure Agreement, of some sort). Beta units are traditionally hand built (and therefore have an additional set of problems). After you Beta Test/refine your design you release for a Pilot Run. This is a first attempt to build production units directly from design/documentation. I have worked at places where R&D (the design/test guys) are forbidden from personally working on that run. One boss called it "Hole in the Wall Engineering". An imaginary wall between you and production with a hole in it for drawings and instructions. You send 'paper' to Production (including DMI, Detailed Manufacturing Instructions), including what to buy and from whom (approved Vendors) and how to make any parts that can't be bought. And the final performance specification (and any special testing needed). Production sends you notes with problems, but every problem gets written (and approved) instruction, not fair if you go fix it personally.

Friends, we are not Beta Testers, but customers of the Pilot Run in my experience. Big, and IMO important difference. There's a thousand pieces in the Pilot Run, that's a huge investment for a guy like Matt I'm sure. Nothing like building a couple Prototypes and asking guys to test them and report. He could easily go bust with a bad call here. Beta Testing was before that.

I'm not only glad I got in early (even though I haven't actually got to use it due to flu.....) I am seriously considering getting a couple more. I've got this friend.........

OF

 

[JCat]

Im fine assembing and such, im a technician. What i said was my observation and if your opinion differs thats fine, ill stand by what i said , I ordered knowing all the info about the first run and cant wait for mine to arrive today.
I was saying to me it would have been better if Divine tribe knew he didnt like the green glass and the screws etc. Before release.

And Divine tribe is offering a free shipping label for anyone who wants to return their 0 to 1000 s/n units, class act, great customer support and very active everywhere, but no way am I returning mine.

Didn't mean any offense, was just presenting a differing opinion (although maybe not that different?)

I too am very happy to be able to get in on this. Despite Matt's history/reputation it is always a bit of a risk with new products. In exchange for that we get a jump on availability. For sure I've bought a lot of vapes that didn't 'measure up', and I'll probably do it again sometime if I'm lucky? This is not one of them I'm thinking.

I disagree a bit, we're not Beta Testers in the traditional sense. That was long ago, those guys were basically secret (every time I've done it it came with a NDA, Non Disclosure Agreement, of some sort). Beta units are traditionally hand built (and therefore have an additional set of problems). After you Beta Test/refine your design you release for a Pilot Run. This is a first attempt to build production units directly from design/documentation. I have worked at places where R&D (the design/test guys) are forbidden from personally working on that run. One boss called it "Hole in the Wall Engineering". An imaginary wall between you and production with a hole in it for drawings and instructions. You send 'paper' to Production (including DMI, Detailed Manufacturing Instructions), including what to buy and from whom (approved Vendors) and how to make any parts that can't be bought. And the final performance specification (and any special testing needed). Production sends you notes with problems, but every problem gets written (and approved) instruction, not fair if you go fix it personally.

Friends, we are not Beta Testers, but customers of the Pilot Run in my experience. Big, and IMO important difference. There's a thousand pieces in the Pilot Run, that's a huge investment for a guy like Matt I'm sure. Nothing like building a couple Prototypes and asking guys to test them and report. He could easily go bust with a bad call here. Beta Testing was before that.

I'm not only glad I got in early (even though I haven't actually got to use it due to flu.....) I am seriously considering getting a couple more. I've got this friend.........

OF

Sorry @OF ... you are quite right ... I misworded it by saying "beta" ... "pilot" is much more apt of a description (I'm a software developer so I get the distinction )

 

[OF]

"pilot" is much more apt of a description (I'm a software developer so I get the distinction )

A 'Softhead'? One of 'them'? Oh, well, we're all vapists here?

In your defense I suspect you were younger when you started down that troubled path?

I used to envy the Software guys. Rewrite a few lines of code (I understand that's not trivial....), burn a new PROM and you've got a different product to test. Hardware guys have a tougher row to hoe to test fixes for sure. Then again some software bugs don't show up right away, I had to meet several Merchant Ships in strange ports to swap out versions, a mighty expensive thing to do when you think about it. Good way to see backwater India or places in China not on any tourist lists. And you can get some 'interesting' foreign food that way too.

Matt has my sympathy and respect for sure. Big risk, according to the rules of Capitalism he should get big rewards if it works out. And we have another choice in the market, most cool.

Please enjoy your QQ for me, I'm getting mighty tired of looking at mine........

OF

 

[PandaLee]

Ok so I started spinning the glass top around now while hitting it, like I read here, and that's pretty cool...but I keep pulling it off at the end of the draw like I'm expecting to clear it and I just end up sucking in all this room air lol