Dani Fusion by Battery-free Ganz

Sour Dream

Blue Dream enthusiast
Idk, I go for a bunch of low temp hits at first before finishing off the bowl by temp stepping - I would guess 6-8 heat cycles. I haven't had to stir at all and the abv comes out so perfectly medium to dark coffee brown.

Next bowl I'll test just heating the top ring for every cycle and see how the abv comes out.


Holy shit, that's pretty disconcerting...I just tried rubbing the top of mine with 70% alcohol, it did leave a little color on the q tip but not a crazy amount - maybe the alcohol not strong enough. Hopefully whatever they used is non toxic...
Tbh I’m not concerned, just gonna make sure I add some wax to my fusion when it gets here
 
Sour Dream,

seriousTone

Well-Known Member
Point. But I wonder if the temp stepping is what eventually provides your even roast? Hard to say as I tend to flirt with combustion and look for that one heat and done experience.
Yeah I guess if you only want 1 or 2 heat cycles but also only want to take the abv light- medium yellow ish brown tan maybe you'll have some uneven issues.

But if you want a fully roasted load, I don't see how the bowl wouldn't get fully heat soaked and even abv eventually.

Is your herb evenly roasted with 1 heat cycle extractions?
 

redeyemaster

Well-Known Member
Yeah I guess if you only want 1 or 2 heat cycles but also only want to take the abv light- medium yellow ish brown tan maybe you'll have some uneven issues.

But if you want a fully roasted load, I don't see how the bowl wouldn't get fully heat soaked and even abv eventually.

Is your herb evenly roasted with 1 heat cycle extractions?
I'm getting fairly even roasting, maybe slightly less roasted near the bottom middle of the pack with my preferred technique (so far).

I'd say it's well into the dark brown, almost coffee colored from a full hit including a heat soak.
 

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Luckily i bought the glass stem and got around to use it . Well i can say my V3 tip + cap delivers stronger hits ,but this one is a bit tastier. I tried the V3 cap on the new TIP i found that it transfered a lot of heat to the o-ring area and got some funky silicone smell.. roast was golden brown . Switched back to the new cap and tried it one more time, and yes you have to pack it loosely. With the smaller bowl size and because you have to keep a loose pack for better results ,the bowl capacity is half of the previous one , i dont think i can jam 0.14 there loosely . If i overfill i get overcooked at the top and green at the bottom, radiation isnt helping much with this lower mass bowl.
BFG replied me instagram that they use a rosewood and he showed me some picks of the wood. I have some rosewood items and they do not leave such dye on my hands, it might have been fresh or i dont know ,but for sure ,i have no plans of vaping that red dye,whatever it is ,because if it gets on my hands it will get everywhere after. As it is now to me that WPA and the Stem are paperweight .
 

2pumpchump

Well-Known Member
Hay I'm new to IH but was wondering if you could preheat your cap I click off as it clicks off screw it on and heat past the click really push cap temp keeping tip temp down
 
2pumpchump,

Perfect_Speed4069

I am the beetle in a box that only you can see
rub my wood :brow: with iso
I've had very very good results with pure acetone on wood (from Vapman maintenance). It will absolutely take a soak if my experience is anything to go by - my hydravong stem, Noisy Cricket, Vapman central post. As well as deep cleaning/unseasoning the wood (I'm guessing it dissolves the reclaim/vape resin build-up), it's not made any of my pieces swell or messed up any of their tolerances. But don't take my word for it. Look elsewhere on FC or Google before you give it a try. Best of luck
 

Sativapo

Well-Known Member
I've had very very good results with pure acetone on wood (from Vapman maintenance). It will absolutely take a soak if my experience is anything to go by - my hydravong stem, Noisy Cricket, Vapman central post. As well as deep cleaning/unseasoning the wood (I'm guessing it dissolves the reclaim/vape resin build-up), it's not made any of my pieces swell or messed up any of their tolerances. But don't take my word for it. Look elsewhere on FC or Google before you give it a try. Best of luck
Thanks for the acetone tip which can be useful but this was just a test to find out my stem doesn't have this stain issue.... I can still rub it though but with my homemade butter to prevent it from drying with heat.
 
Sativapo,

redeyemaster

Well-Known Member
Just scrubbed the hell out of the shorty stem

Rubbed with nothing (just cotton cloth) - No color
Rubbed with water - No color
Rubbed with oil - No color

ISO might cause some bleed of the stain, not sure... I'm still more concerned about the heat than anything else.
 

seriousTone

Well-Known Member
My wood stem does get pretty toasty near the neck of the tip...here's to hoping it doesn't crack over time.

If I'm not mistaken, the metal lining helps with cracking as well?
 

2pumpchump

Well-Known Member
My wood stem does get pretty toasty near the neck of the tip...here's to hoping it doesn't crack over time.

If I'm not mistaken, the metal lining helps with cracking as well?
don't let your wood get dry always good to use moisturizer on your wood lmoa sorry had to :lol:
 
2pumpchump,

Arawfish

Tree climber
I've had very very good results with pure acetone on wood (from Vapman maintenance). It will absolutely take a soak if my experience is anything to go by - my hydravong stem, Noisy Cricket, Vapman central post. As well as deep cleaning/unseasoning the wood (I'm guessing it dissolves the reclaim/vape resin build-up), it's not made any of my pieces swell or messed up any of their tolerances. But don't take my word for it. Look elsewhere on FC or Google before you give it a try. Best of luck
Acetone is the only acceptable applicant for cleaning our wooden pieces soaked in resin. It has 0% water content and evaporates easily even at low temperatures without leaving any residues. Iso leaves bitterants and contains a % amount of water. Ethanol does not contain bitterants but does contain water.

@Abysmal Vapor - Have you seen the reports of Ed’s stems leeching Sap/Pigments from particular wood species? I don’t think there is a dye being applied to the Rosewood but I very well could be wrong about that. I rubbed mine down hard with a bit of Iso and there was definitely some pigmentation that leeched from the wood but that’s definitely not getting on my hands during normal operation while at max temperatures.
Im kinda surprised you used distilled water of all things, I would have thought a Vapour wizard such as yourself would have known better haha. Thought you mentioned it came off with just the water being applied? I rubbed mine with water and didn’t have the pigment leech like I did with the Iso.

Edit::: I have picture from iso rub


Cheeky double edit::

I just rubbed down my Enano XL wpa from Ed, which is African Blackwood and has had a full Acetone bath several times so I know there’s no original finish from Ed still on it, and got black / brown pigments from the wood just like I did the Rosewood.

Ninja triple edit::

Just checked with Vu and he confirmed they do not dye their woods, and is just finished in the same manner as any other wood piece; with mineral oil.
 
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Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
@Arawfish Recommendations was to use water first,i usually only use ethanol,but i did not wanted to damage the wood or smth. As mentioned i have previous experience with Rosewood and nothing like that. Anyway i better direct this to the man behind the wheel.
Sofar they have showed good customer service.
 
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Arawfish

Tree climber
@Arawfish Recommendations was to use water first,i usually only use ethanol,but i did not wanted to damage the wood or smth. As mentioned i have previous experience with Rosewood and nothing like that. I am going to leave this photos ,so you can make a judgement for your self. I woundnt mind the unit being dyed either but that it makes me bloody handed i cannot bare with that.. transfering that on everything i touch after

Mine was very red compared to yours... i am guessing i just got something with excess of that finish applied on it and here you can clearly see the stained color contrasting to the cleaned one.

https://postimg.cc/06fsfQ2R
6-DEC593-C-BCE8-4783-AA51-348-D5-B94-F695.jpg




Oil that up and it’ll look red again 🤷🏼‍♂️ to me that looks like pigmentation from the wood, although definitely more prominent than mine but still the same hue nonetheless. That faded look on the wood after you rubbed it is what wood looks like stripped of the waxy / oily finish.

I get brown stains when I wipe the mineral oil off my Firewood when I clean it too. And my Walnut Vapman. It just comes down to the wood.

Something else that can happen I think, if an oil rich finish is applied too thick without polishing it off, it can also cause the pigments to leech the longer it sits. But that’s probably reaching on my part.

I’d wax it up if I were you, and go through a couple cycles, it shouldn’t be coming off on your hands.
 

Sativapo

Well-Known Member
Not working today and kid at school. Put a little Vietnamese action flick "Furies" on Netflix to go with my fusion. Got the hang of timing 20 sec after click on the wand and a mini j hook that I have. As seen in @Arawfish vid shorty fits on a 14mm joint ( not all of them I guess). Mine seems to be good rosewood, well made/durable. Nice full flavorful and vaporfull durban poison day sessions in 3-4 heats no tamping and very effective also on 2/3 of bowl load for microdosing.(getting too stoned with this testing-honeymoon period and cramping up my tolerance). After use it's completely doable to use mainly the wand when at home, better for watching movies than torch.

Edit : another technique I found for cashing the bowl straight is waiting till the click in the wand and then inhale while keeping the wand on top like a neo. Big long draw or several puffs until it tastes toasty than you remove the wand and continue the draw. Works for perfect full extraction. Forgiving enough for the time to remove the wand without combusting.
 
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MDude

Well-Known Member
Just about to pull the trigger on this.

Are the o-rings the same as for dynavap? Can anyone confirm?
I have lots of those so dont want to order more.
 
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MDude,

BingsBuddery

Derelict Meatsack
Oil that up and it’ll look red again 🤷🏼‍♂️ to me that looks like pigmentation from the wood, although definitely more prominent than mine but still the same hue nonetheless. That faded look on the wood after you rubbed it is what wood looks like stripped of the waxy / oily finish.

I get brown stains when I wipe the mineral oil off my Firewood when I clean it too. And my Walnut Vapman. It just comes down to the wood.

Something else that can happen I think, if an oil rich finish is applied too thick without polishing it off, it can also cause the pigments to leech the longer it sits. But that’s probably reaching on my part.

I’d wax it up if I were you, and go through a couple cycles, it shouldn’t be coming off on your hands.
I'm a little late to this convo, but this very thing occurred to another customer of SV recently who had used ISO on their Fusion stem and saw the same bleaching and leaching of pigment. I reached out to Vu to confirm that no dye, stain, or other product is applied to the wood to colour it. He confirmed that they only use a natural oil and beeswax/carnuba to finish. They are well aware of the risks of applying any type of colouring product to a vape stem. So what you are seeing is the pigment of the wood and perhaps some left over fine particulate being stripped away by a solvent.

Edit: Just read back and saw you confirmed with Vu, as well.. apologies for the echo.
 
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tinctorus

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
@Arawfish I'm glad that you're satisfied but it isn't enough for me, personally. I would need transparency on how it happened and how it won't happen again. I'd also be really pissed if I was Soothing Vapours and whoever else this might have happened to.
They just stated it was a simple mix up, no reason to drag this out and keep bringing up a situation that was handled as soon as BFG was made aware abs workout question...
 
tinctorus,
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Sativapo

Well-Known Member
Just about to pull the trigger on this Fusion 😎
Are the o-rings the same as for dynavap? Can anyone confirm?
I have lots of those so dont want to order more.
They look the same dimensions to me. But vapcaps are viton these feel like silicon. Not the same stiffness. That should work. I don't know if others experimented with previous danies.. ?

Edit : I know one stem is 8mm the other 9 when you put orings one on top of the other they look the same maybe there is like tenth of mm difference
 
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redeyemaster

Well-Known Member
Just about to pull the trigger on this.

Are the o-rings the same as for dynavap? Can anyone confirm?
I have lots of those so dont want to order more.
Dani is 9mm, dynas are 8mm.

Not 100% sure if they’re the same size or not as I have never checked 1:1 but both my dani’s came with spares from Wesley pipes (us distributor)
 
redeyemaster,
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