Agreed, if it have to go that far past the click the click isn't set right If multiple clicks were possibly now that would be fantastic: low temp, mid temp, high temp. I know that is easier said then done.
Dani Fusion by Battery-free Ganz
- Thread starter batteryfreeganz
- Start date
Flavorousness
New Member
Yeah totally makes sense if @batteryfreeganz will have an upgrade for the fusion thermal disc in the future with the temp about 20 more degree celsius compare to now. In that case I will stop at the click and not go pass for 5-6 sec like usual. 
Sativapo
Well-Known Member
Fully inserted in the reversed wand till the lip mine clicks at 34 seconds from ambient temp or 20 ish if it's a reheat. then I can add between 15 and 25 seconds, at 30 risk of combustion. So under the max temp timer limit of 1 minute of the wand. It's kind of half of that with a good torch on the high temp ring.
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Weird, mine takes like 2 minutes.
Sativapo
Well-Known Member
Tested again, now it clicked at 40 s from completely cold and gave more vapor at + 15 seconds than my first test. It clicked at 17 seconds for the second heat cycle. It's not exact science but definitely not 2 minutes for me. In 2 minutes it would immediately carbonise to ashes when I would draw. Mine stands a bit bent blocking on the lip of the reversed wand. Do you use the wand ? How good are your batteries ? I keep my wand USB connected as if it was a desktop heater so the charge is always at 3-4 bars.
What a sacrifice I really get baked for the sake of science.
What
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I do use the Wand, I just set it to max temp which gets it to click and a few more seconds and I have started running it for another cycle for 10 secs. I'm using the batteries that came with it, it is a 50% charged. It stands straight up in upside down Wand. I wonder if it gets hotter being connected to USB or if putting it in on a bit of an angle gets it hotter faster, or both.
Yeah mine sits right in it and the ridge of the glass glass keeps it from falling through.
TigoleBitties
Big and Bouncy
I wouldn't stand it straight up as I had bad results trying this (took forever). I keep the wand button side down too but if it's in the glass hole standing straight it's not going to heat the tip effectively and it'll burn whatever is underneath. Even if you balanced it on the glass lip straight up (hard I think) you would risk burning stuff underneath if it ever slipped off and for whatever reason mine didn't heat well oriented vertically.
I let it sit at an angle against the lip. I use a piece of cork underneath to prevent any burns through the hole.
I get similar times with the Wand.
Sativapo
Well-Known Member
Maybe there little tolerances on the fusion or the wand. My wands lip blocks only the base were the airflow holes are that protrudes like 1 mm over the cap.
Edit : with this discussion I just found out that I can fit it straight without reverting ! Mine deeps inside down to the base with the airholes. Very effective it clicks a bit faster with equivalent amounts of vapor.
Edit 2 : in fact this isn't a very good method cause there is a lot of contact with the wand and a lot heat transferred to it. With an angle while reverted: less contact
@Kreator87 if I understood what you said you shouldn't be able to do this ? Cause your cap is bigger than you're ridge?
Edit : with this discussion I just found out that I can fit it straight without reverting ! Mine deeps inside down to the base with the airholes. Very effective it clicks a bit faster with equivalent amounts of vapor.
Edit 2 : in fact this isn't a very good method cause there is a lot of contact with the wand and a lot heat transferred to it. With an angle while reverted: less contact
@Kreator87 if I understood what you said you shouldn't be able to do this ? Cause your cap is bigger than you're ridge?
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Correct, my Fusion tip will not fit through the opening of the Wand while it is facing up.
moose_hunt
Member
I would love to see a video of the fusion being used with the wand to really get an idea of how long it takes and vapour production on the first and second heat. I’m eyeing the fusion but am not keen on torching as the main method again, the wand is just too convenient with the dynavap. Some batteries are better than others, the age of your batteries can make the difference too in heat up time. Or it is just difference in mAh. Samsung 30Q are good.
redeyemaster
Well-Known Member
I spent some time yesterday doing wand only hits and it's doable just not nearly as quick as a torch.
I also find I can get the exact heat distribution I want more easily with a torch but it wouldn't be fair to not mention I have ~5-6 years experience using a torch and I've had a wand for maybe a week and I only really started using is more seriously this weekend; so it's new territory for me twice over.
I have been approaching the wand differntly than I've heard others do it; I hold my dani vertically and put the wand on top so I can see the display while heating.
leanpubpackage
Well-Known Member
I actually appreciate the way it’s calibrated now. Though the experience becomes more manual, it allows for more temperature options.
One complaint though is that the click isn’t very loud and I often second guess when there’s a click, especially when I’m toasted. I also still keep the cap backed off a quarter turn because I’m a bit scarred with cap sticking
Sativapo
Well-Known Member
I'm also kind of getting used to it but It would have options if set a bit higher too. The low temp ring is quite useless when it doesn't produce any vapor at all at the click.
For the use I have which is ending full dark I think it's normal counting after the click but in this case you must do it even for moderate heating or you won't half vape your load.
For the use I have which is ending full dark I think it's normal counting after the click but in this case you must do it even for moderate heating or you won't half vape your load.
redeyemaster
Well-Known Member
It's an interesting dynamic for sure.
I personally don't especially mind it because I use the click more of a gauge of how fast my heat is ramping up and it's easy for me to lose track of what it's like for people not aiming at that fine line between combustion and vaporization.
Tooling it a bit higher might be better if the low temp technique isn't getting hot enough to produce vapor; but I would also say a caveat of going for lower temps with a device of this nature is you're probably going to have to stir for a more even extraction.
I will have to test more low temp pulls on it for good measure; My fav things about the butane vape space is the process of finding the technique that gives you the results you want but it can also be it's biggest downside because I have no idea if someone I share it with is going to have a good experience.
A click calibrated closer to the "best" temp for a consistent experience would certainly help narrow end users missing the mark either over or under.
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
I received my Dani Fusion and Dani WPA. Tried first to clean the WPA and all my hands and cotton got red from the paint that this wood has been soaked into. This is my first wooden stem ever and will be my last,who know what finish they used onto it,now soaked into my skin... really disappointed with that..... I tried the Dani Fusion stem and same result.... @batteryfreeganz Also my spiral inside is so jammed i cannot get it out no matter what i try... Machining work on my Dani V3 was also better quality,there are a few screatches here and there,but i wont complain about this ,having in mind the other more pressing issues.
Upon futher check i found that the WPA doesnt fit my Dani V3 tip which i bought it for and only messes the orings. pushing them to the front
Upon futher check i found that the WPA doesnt fit my Dani V3 tip which i bought it for and only messes the orings. pushing them to the front
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redeyemaster
Well-Known Member
What are you cleaning the wood with?
Abysmal Vapor
Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Distilled water at first and then 70 % ethanol cause i tried to see if it going to get clean. It is clearly water soluable... Nothing like that happens on my tinymight or any of my logvapes. This one is clearly dyed. I can post some horrifying photos, but i am sure anyone can find out for himself.|
I am sure sweat from hands is enough to dissolve that crap too.
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redeyemaster
Well-Known Member
Interesting... I've never cleaned wood vape stuff with anything besides coconut oil; if you got ethanol on the stem that would cause any stain to come loose.
Didn't have any residue come off my short stem when I cleaned it but I also shelved the stem fairly promptly because I'm concerned the frequent cycles between high heat and cool will cause the wood to split over time since it has a metal core and the dani gets quite hot.
Sour Dream
Blue Dream enthusiast
I’ve had the same thing happen with my wood stem just using water
leanpubpackage
Well-Known Member
That’s true. The top ring is useless for sure lol. Maybe this current version can be the “low temp cap” and a better calibrated roastier cap can follow. The only problem is that these caps don’t seem cheap to buy separately. $65 for the v3 IH cap felt steep
seriousTone
Well-Known Member
Idk, I go for a bunch of low temp hits at first before finishing off the bowl by temp stepping - I would guess 6-8 heat cycles. I haven't had to stir at all and the abv comes out so perfectly medium to dark coffee brown.
Next bowl I'll test just heating the top ring for every cycle and see how the abv comes out.
Holy shit, that's pretty disconcerting...I just tried rubbing the top of mine with 70% alcohol, it did leave a little color on the q tip but not a crazy amount - maybe the alcohol not strong enough. Hopefully whatever they used is non toxic...
redeyemaster
Well-Known Member
Point. But I wonder if the temp stepping is what eventually provides your even roast? Hard to say as I tend to flirt with combustion and look for that one heat and done experience.