bizwaxzion
Enigmatic Cannabist
For flower, I usually test press a small amount without a bag - but when doing 5-7g presses I use the 160u bags. I've not ventured into pressing hash yet, but have some 37u bags for that.
Dabpress Rosin Plates
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voxdei
Well-Known Member
Did you notice that the 'bundle' available with that unit includes
Dabpress iBudtek dp-bt160ns Stitched Extraction Filter Bag - 160 Micron Bags?
Also in the bundle is a puck press which seems pretty desirable.
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bizwaxzion
Enigmatic Cannabist
Yes. Depending on the amount you will regularly be pressing. For amounts between 3-6g the 30mm is great. For presses up to 12g at a time I use two pucks. If you want to process more materal at a time, the 40mm pre-press and larger bags would be nice. I use a vice to pre-press cuz I'm old - haha - but seriously, it's much easier to get the puck bagged and into the press if it's smaller to start with. The puck will be a bit more difficult to remove from the pre-press, but a dead blow hammer pops them right out. Use of a pre-press also helps with consistent pressure if you have a gauge because your puck square inch size is the same.
@voxdei That is a great pairing, especially if you plan on pressing buds. Also, the bundle is a good option as you end up getting one of the bundled items for free, and all bundled items are generally very useful for beginners.
I live in the southern high country away from cities and civilization
Unfortunately we don't have a retail space to do any in-person demos at this time. I will be glad to make new content to post on my youtube which would be almost as good as in-person if you need!
@bizwaxzion nice tips! Couldn't agree more.
@btka for buds you might want to start out with 160u filters, then as you refine your technique switch over to a smaller micron if you like? I think the 90u's are a good pairing to buds as well, so 90/120/160 will all work fine, the higher microns will allow more bits like stigma's pass through on occasion, whereas the 90's will trap everything. If you plan on pressing hash, I would suggest our 37u filters.
@FlyingLow one of the bigger misconceptions with making rosin is the need for excessive pressure. Just a quick browse through this thread, I can see my trend moving downward in pressure and the quality moving upward. I used to press in the 1500-1700 PSI range at the bag, very much overkill for flower. Now a days I'm at around 1000 PSI.
Just to put it into perspective, I've heard of people putting 3x3" plates on a 20T press. It's really not a good use of your budget unless you already have a 20T press laying around.
For pressing buds, 1000 PSI on plates (consider your shop press should be used below it's max limit to prolong hydraulic life)
3x3 = 9000 lbs = 4.5 tons max (6 ton shop press)
3x5 = 15000 lbs = 7.5 tons max (10 ton shop press)
3x7 = 21000 lbs = 10.5 tons max (12 ton shop press)
4x7 = 28000 lbs = 14 tons max (20 ton shop press)
5.5x7 = 38500 lbs = 19.25 tons max (30 ton shop press)
For these reasons we recommend to have your hydraulics rated for an extra 15-20% than the max tonnage you will be using.
I live in the southern high country away from cities and civilization
Unfortunately we don't have a retail space to do any in-person demos at this time. I will be glad to make new content to post on my youtube which would be almost as good as in-person if you need!@bizwaxzion nice tips! Couldn't agree more.
@btka for buds you might want to start out with 160u filters, then as you refine your technique switch over to a smaller micron if you like? I think the 90u's are a good pairing to buds as well, so 90/120/160 will all work fine, the higher microns will allow more bits like stigma's pass through on occasion, whereas the 90's will trap everything. If you plan on pressing hash, I would suggest our 37u filters.
@FlyingLow one of the bigger misconceptions with making rosin is the need for excessive pressure. Just a quick browse through this thread, I can see my trend moving downward in pressure and the quality moving upward. I used to press in the 1500-1700 PSI range at the bag, very much overkill for flower. Now a days I'm at around 1000 PSI.
Just to put it into perspective, I've heard of people putting 3x3" plates on a 20T press. It's really not a good use of your budget unless you already have a 20T press laying around.
For pressing buds, 1000 PSI on plates (consider your shop press should be used below it's max limit to prolong hydraulic life)
3x3 = 9000 lbs = 4.5 tons max (6 ton shop press)
3x5 = 15000 lbs = 7.5 tons max (10 ton shop press)
3x7 = 21000 lbs = 10.5 tons max (12 ton shop press)
4x7 = 28000 lbs = 14 tons max (20 ton shop press)
5.5x7 = 38500 lbs = 19.25 tons max (30 ton shop press)
For these reasons we recommend to have your hydraulics rated for an extra 15-20% than the max tonnage you will be using.
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I'll hit you up if I'm ever in the area! Just sampled some swiss cheese rosin, just wonderful. For peeps out there, check it out, nirvana swiss cheese auto. Good yields and super awesome meds, dense fat buds. Pretty sure it has a fair bit of CBD in it as well
anda1anda2
Well-Known Member
psychonaut said:
So without a guage, is there a rule of thumb for manual pressing to avoid hitting the max limit? How close to fully cranked down is safe?
I usually watch the color of the flow. If the color of the flow is still the same as when you started, you can usually give it a little more pressure, until the jack feels tight, not too tight. Watch for the color to darken. If you do decide to use extra pressure I'd suggest it at the very end of your pressing time so your darker rosin will be around the puck and instead of in the flow. Also, if you can count the # of pumps you do, it'll give you a ballpark idea for how many pumps to do on the next presses.
anda1anda2
Well-Known Member
I’ve had a couple presses with a small green ring of oil right around the puck, but I assume those were ones I really cranked down on. I can usually tell when I am getting close to that point, so that might be a good benchmark for me.
Our hydraulic rosin presses are starting to restock in the Amazon warehouse, bj6t35 is now available again for US customers.
https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-dp-bj6t35-Anodized-Plates-Machine/dp/B07KQ3QB9N
bj3t33 should be restocked soon.
https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-dp-bj6t35-Anodized-Plates-Machine/dp/B07KQ3QB9N
bj3t33 should be restocked soon.
JohnnyMauser
Well-Known Member
Hy Folks,
i have done just some presses with my bj3t33. The first presses (strain #1) were bagless, i didnt weight any, just doing same i did with my straightner. Put some little bud (about 0.1-0.2) in and press. Worked fine, but this machine is for more than that, although its pretty fun to press with it.
I experienced by pressing more bagless that the bud is pressed into rosin, or the rosin doesnt get away from the bud. Its not that bummer for me, i vape all my pressed flowers with my herbo ti. So i thought maybe the bags will solve that, stop the expansion of the flower and let the oil go.
So i took the dp-bt160ns 2"x4", and cut and filled the bag like this. I did about 3 presses like that. yield was 10% 12% 9%. Pressed at 190 210 and 200. Had all flowers @ 62%rh, the last press was another, more potent strain. I put more pressing power to the first 2 presses, take less pressure to the last press.
First presses and strain, really dark brown rosin
last press and second strain, light amber and more tasty
I press on oil slick paper. times were about 2,5 / 2 / 2 prepress on the last was with most
On the YT videos it looks like the presses are so close that you cant even see the puck anymore. I could not press the 3,5g puck so close even if i want, i can see it all the time.
Before i continue pressing, i need to check this and hope you guys can help me:
I think the bags soaks a lot of my yields away, and maybe i have too much bag for 3.5g with that technique?
I found that technique easyier then the one with the closed bottom and inverted overlapping edges, is there a method to prefer?
Can you really overpress with the bj3t33 for 3,5g+ pre pressed pucks?
i have done just some presses with my bj3t33. The first presses (strain #1) were bagless, i didnt weight any, just doing same i did with my straightner. Put some little bud (about 0.1-0.2) in and press. Worked fine, but this machine is for more than that, although its pretty fun to press with it.
I experienced by pressing more bagless that the bud is pressed into rosin, or the rosin doesnt get away from the bud. Its not that bummer for me, i vape all my pressed flowers with my herbo ti. So i thought maybe the bags will solve that, stop the expansion of the flower and let the oil go.
So i took the dp-bt160ns 2"x4", and cut and filled the bag like this. I did about 3 presses like that. yield was 10% 12% 9%. Pressed at 190 210 and 200. Had all flowers @ 62%rh, the last press was another, more potent strain. I put more pressing power to the first 2 presses, take less pressure to the last press.
First presses and strain, really dark brown rosin
last press and second strain, light amber and more tasty
I press on oil slick paper. times were about 2,5 / 2 / 2 prepress on the last was with most
On the YT videos it looks like the presses are so close that you cant even see the puck anymore. I could not press the 3,5g puck so close even if i want, i can see it all the time.
Before i continue pressing, i need to check this and hope you guys can help me:
I think the bags soaks a lot of my yields away, and maybe i have too much bag for 3.5g with that technique?
I found that technique easyier then the one with the closed bottom and inverted overlapping edges, is there a method to prefer?
Can you really overpress with the bj3t33 for 3,5g+ pre pressed pucks?
voxdei
Well-Known Member
Bags for sure hang onto some oil, when I use the method shown in the video, I use the 30mm pre-press puck maker and put 3.5g in, the filter I use is 2" wide by about 2.5" long. Both ends are open and I put the puck in the filter and fold all the ends up. The finished puck size is roughly 1.75" diameter. That's 2.4sq/in, and I apply 1000 PSI to the puck, so only about 1.2 tons.
If I am using a 2x4" filter, I keep the bottom stiching in place, fold in the corners, then cut the filter down about 1" above the puck for folding the top side up, bottle tech style.
You definitely can overpress with the bj3t33. Check for parchment bleed through, tearing in the parchment, and also blowouts on the filter, as well as a darker rosin flow when you reach the top end of your applied pressure. If you're pressing 3.5g using a 2" wide filter for bottle tech, you will be using under half the pressure available in the jack, when applying optimal pressure.
There are a lot of people pressing bagless, just using the puck maker to form the puck. Works fine and saves money! Just keep in mind the puck will stretch out more and you will have to increase the pressure to be as effective as a smaller bagged puck.
Thanks! We are in the process of updating our plates right now. I hope to have some news in the next month or two.
For now, the insulation for dp-rp37 is a bamboo plank for underneath the cage frame, then you will retract the ram from the top of the cage frame until you are ready for pressing.
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JohnnyMauser
Well-Known Member
Thank you very much, so the answer is yes, i used too much bag for the 3.5g, and probably thats why the yields arent that big / theres so much oil on bag. I just found that 2 videos about the bottle tech style with the closed end of the bag, but i hang on open questions/explanations like.... is the shape of the bottom more than a V or U or |_| ?? And how much should the edges overlap and so on. It that perfectionism that makes those things hard for me sometimes.... often maybe i should just try....
Another Factor in here is, how much was prepressed, higher prepress, i need less room in the bag? But this way the oil could be stick in there? Should i use the irwin clamp for 3.5g, or just go for what my hands can handle?
Thats why i got to the bags, my feeling was i stretch the flower into the rosin, so maybe it makes sense to go to a estimated power, and dont press more after that, if youre pressing bagless... ? Or either way?
Looks like this whole thing is easy to learn... but hard to master.
Edit: If i cut the lenght side of 2x4 in half... it is 2x2 .... so maybe it wasnt too much bag.
Take a look at this video I did, it shows a small filter with one open end. I fold in the bottom corners, and hand stuff the filter with buds. I like to have just a little overlap in the top folds so there is no "open" areas of buds exposed. The filter behaves much like when you wrap a present, with the folding.
Either way works fine, the pre-press mold, and especially if using assisted pressure from a clamp or vise, is going to cram a lot more material in the space. For smaller loads, you can hand stuff 3.5g w/o a pre-press and it will fit underneath all our our plates. If you start going upwards to 7g, for sure you will need a tight pre-press to keep a small enough height puck to fit in the press.
Yes sounds like your bag size is fine.
The advantage to bottle tech is your surface area of your squish is generally reduced in comparison to other methods, so you end up using less pressure, and it's more effecient this way. I'm sure there is more to it but it works really well for small personal runs. The advantage to filters is for repeatable results, I can pretty much duplicate my process from run to run since the puck stays the same size.
JohnnyMauser
Well-Known Member
I will try the next press like that. I noticed that your plates on this 3.5g press are so close (point where camera goes up?), i feel that i cant get mine like that without using a lot of power on the lever. Does that matter anyway?
Ah ok, i thought i need this for exact surface area (yea the bag limits that too). I will try this one day with 3.5g bagless then, and the next one without prepressing in a bag.
Thank you so far @psychonaut !
agentcooper
Member
Hi,
I should be receiving my dp-hr10t35v later this week (my strongway was just delivered), and wanted to ask you about your experience with different PSI's for your presses.
Where have you settled on as a sweet spot for PSI?
I figured that I would start at 1000PSI, which seems reasonable for quality flower (and in line with your comments)
(I'm currently using a Nugsmasher, but really feel that a gauge will help with my consistency)
Thanks
Those were back in the high pressure days, probably was using a lot more than necessary. 1000 PSI is a good spot for yields and efficiency, I believe in that video it was more in the 1500-1750 PSI range.
I look forward to your results!
Sweet! Thanks for your business, you are going to have a lot of fun with your press
Your figures are perfect IMO. You can go -/+ 200 PSI from there. When I first started, I was applying so much pressure my filters were blowing out, then when I got a gauge I was just overpressing because I was still learning, then after all the research on the internet, trial and error, discussion with customers, friends and forums, dropped the pressure down gradually to 1000 PSI and difference in yields is there, but I am fairly certain I'm pressing minimal unwanted compounds, so now a days all my rosin is very good, and whatevers left in the pucks go to my edible stash which never seems to shrink
voxdei
Well-Known Member
It is really good questions
Currently we just prepare a piece of bamboo in the package of unit. It was placed between plates and hydraulic.
In fact, We are trying to find good heat-resistant material to separate hot plate and cold plate. We also made a lot of test. But after one hour working, cold and hot plate will have the same temperature.
Do you have any suggestions?
Thank you
Roger
I am excited about the great new sale you have going for the dp-rp37 combo!
https://www.dabpress.com/products/dp-rp37-diy-rosin-heat-plates
I am ready to buy it but wonder if I can get a better insulation than a thin bamboo.
How about some blanks like are used on your press kits? May I get 2 blanks?
Yes it's a nice deal!
The bamboo actually does very well to insulate the shop press from the heat on the caged frame. You can also put the silicone mat inbetween the bamboo and table plate to increase the insulation.
I would recommend a single thicker insulation if that's what you would like. You can find small hardwood lumber such as hickory or cherry usually (unfinished hardwood flooring) and have them cut it down to size for you at home depot and such. 10mm thickness will do excellent. There will always be upward heat from the heat radiating off the platens, so we still recommend to power off the press when you are finished working.
voxdei
Well-Known Member
I see, thanks. So any hardwood can handle 20 tons, eh?
A couple of other questions if I may:
Is attaching a pressure gauge, like the Dabpress 10000# unit, simply a matter of attaching it
inline with an air/hydraulic piston? (Teeing off the threaded base, below the air inlet, for the following.)
https://express.google.com/product/..._u=RKQPTXM5VMCZEOQ&ouid=109152746609152953166
It seems to me that dp-pm4007s puck press would be a better match than dp-pm3015r for the
dp-rp37 caged plates. If so, may I pay more to get that substitution?
Sorry for my confusion!
