Is this an issue with the CL? If so not good.I also broke the wooden sleeve of the glass mouthpiece, but not as yours, mine opened like a fruit in half, LOL. I glue it with dual epoxy and works ok but has an outside line in one part of the glued stem.
CouchLog
- Thread starter Chris@420Eng
- Start date
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
Only one I've ever heard of. @condition , did it crack while your were removing a stuck chamber?
Edit: I just worked my chamber out of my new glass stem. It was pretty well stuck in there--I pried gently around the edge with a screwdriver until I could pull it free. Upshot seems like it was sorta glued in place by wood resin--little bits are cooked to the chamber. I checked it against my OG mouthpiece (also made of grenadill) and I think the ID of that mouthpiece may be slightly larger, like maybe 1mm, so my guess would be that it's wide enough to elude heat-swelling issues. I would also suppose that any resin-gluing issues matter more when the tolerance is closer.
Maybe make sure you can move (or remove) your chamber while it's still warm? There's not a lot of wood there to sand much away, but that was the other thought: sand away at the ID until it's a tad looser? Not sure it's recommended!
Last edited:
I have not had this issue but I think it has happened to @Abele Rizieri Ferrari twice sadly.
I used to use my kingwood stem all the time without an issue, although lately I usually use the glass bowl.
I wonder if it is a problem with some woods or individual pieces.
Weedaholic
Well-Known Member
Yeah i use 5mm glass beads in the stem since the day i got my CL. I find the airflow a whole lot better then the mesh pads.The mesh cooling pads kind of restricted it to much for me.Yeah they cool the vapor a lot better then the mesh pads.
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
It may be a glass stem-specific thing: the tolerance seems slightly tighter, but I think the key is that the OG mouthpiece has a ledge below the chamber that prevents it going in deep enough to become lodged; the glass mouthpiece does not have that ledge so the bowl can go deeper into the stem leaving more metal to bind with the resin, and less outside for leverage for removal, and less wiggle room altogether.
Last edited:
Abele Rizieri Ferrari
Well-Known Member
YeahI did all of that actually. And offer my first experience with the damaged chamber I'd been trying to regularly check if the chamber was still removable, removing resin from the inside of the stem as well as the chamber. But after honeymooning with another vape CL became my daily driver again and I probably wasn't as alert as before. Oh well, luckily it's functional still, plus I got the p3 bowl coming to check that out.
I believe some of you have been using CL with wooden bowls as well, which is something im also interested in for CL (and probably SX as well then)
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
I have a DFreeZ bowl that's pretty nice but it's a fairly tight hit, more like the MP than the glass bowl. The Z8 and presumably the SX don't fit the opening, unfortunately. I have mentioned a general need for 14mm injector chambers to @GoodVibesBoro , so maybe he will make some someday. Maybe DFreeZ would be open to it too?
Last edited:
Abele Rizieri Ferrari
Well-Known Member
I asked my buddy @woodyvapors on IG to see if he can do a 14mm f to 14mm m bowl 
and he agreed to it. I'll let you all know how it turns out!
Ah yes:
I have the idea the glass lining has an escalating effect on this process, as the regular stems seem to be fine and the only known issues to date were with the glass lined stem (albeit only 2 cases i know of).
and he agreed to it. I'll let you all know how it turns out!I think Chris mentioned it was specifically the case with kingwood
Ah yes:
I have the idea the glass lining has an escalating effect on this process, as the regular stems seem to be fine and the only known issues to date were with the glass lined stem (albeit only 2 cases i know of).
SurrealToker
Active Member
Does anyone know what kind of powerbank i would need to use the CL, for a fair amount of time at least? 
I remember reading somewhere on this thread that a powerbank could be used, I think Chris said it himself @Beefcake@420Eng
I remember reading somewhere on this thread that a powerbank could be used, I think Chris said it himself @Beefcake@420Eng
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
I have a Renogy Pheonix 100 with AC out, which they don't make any more apparently, but they have some 200s. They also have kits with solar panels, etc. I'm not sure how they compare with other powerstations, but that one has worked nicely for me. Mine lasts like 3+ hours (I think. I've only played with it to test the concept and time how long it works).Does anyone know what kind of powerbank i would need to use the CL, for a fair amount of time at least?
Can't wait to see it. Hopefully it's a success and he keeps making them!I asked my buddy @woodyvapors on IG to see if he can do a 14mm f to 14mm m bowl
SurrealToker
Active Member
Looked it up and I was thinking about something smaller like regular powerbanks, wondering about the power needed for those to function
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
That I can't answer. My guess would be if it puts out ac it'll 'work', but for how long? The several-dollar question.
Nebelmann
Well-Known Member
There was another burl release? You lucky one. Can't wait for those pics.I couldn't resist any longer, the burl was exactly what I was hoping for when I originally posted here months back.
I'll update with pictures when it arrives..
Razhumikin
Well-Known Member
Does the Thuya burl unit have a strong smell? I love the look of thuya burl but the 18mm WPA I have that is made of it is almost unusable because of how strong the aroma/flavor is from the wood.
A little late to the party but I had the same issue happen with my Kingswood glass lined stem. Got the chamber out by applying heat and then twisting it off with pliers. Once I got it out I sanded down things a bit and haven't had the issue since. I keep going back and forth which I like best- this or the glass bowl.
condition
Well-Known Member
Mine broken after pressing slightly the glass insert, not after removing stuck chamber. I am a new user and I have some questions for later but the wooden sleeve is thin and seems easy crackable.
I.had the chamber's screen stuck sometimes. It gets easily deformed and the outer edge gets loose and scratches then inside of the wooden sleeve. The screen flatten is half inch? Can I use the flat spare screens that I have for bowls?
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
I hope you won't have to worry about the wood cracking, I'm surprised to see it tbh. Not sure how big it is, but I don't see why you couldn't shove a regular screen down in there as you would another bowl., either way it's a friction fit. I wonder if Chris saw some airflow/performance improvement with those, or he just thought they'd stay better. Maybe it's so they're easier to remove/clean?
on the cracking:
thats not good and i will keep an eye on it.
We have an resin issue with the Kingwood. I updated my manual accordingly.
If the herbchamber got stuck with the glas mouthpiece, please remove the glas part by twist-pull it and then try to push the chamber out with a pen or something.
I will order longer glas next time, so the chamber cant go as deep as it goes now.
Please hook me up for a new one if you just pushed the glas.
it seems pretty unused on the picture so there might be a crack before u got it.
You will get a dead space at the bottom of the chamber and the roasting is slightly worse.
thats not good and i will keep an eye on it.
We have an resin issue with the Kingwood. I updated my manual accordingly.
If the herbchamber got stuck with the glas mouthpiece, please remove the glas part by twist-pull it and then try to push the chamber out with a pen or something.
I will order longer glas next time, so the chamber cant go as deep as it goes now.
Please hook me up for a new one if you just pushed the glas.
it seems pretty unused on the picture so there might be a crack before u got it.
Yes, flat screens work.
You will get a dead space at the bottom of the chamber and the roasting is slightly worse.
I recently put some glass and ruby beads along with the mesh cooling pad (going first) and i also removed the SS bowl and put a SS screen ( a formed screen from Underdog or @Alan) and it has become my favourite stem for the CL. It does cool extremely well this way , and for someone not after clouds I get big ones at only 5.5 and long slow draw
onesixty2
Well-Known Member
I'm in love with this tiny vape and I've only just met it.. The wait to get a Burl was very difficult, as was arguing with myself over the price, I knew I'd be happy with the oak.. so glad I ignored the 'responsible' thought and went with 'treat yo self'.
First impressions: I honestly could not have been prepared for the actual size of the unit. Even seeing pictures before arriving, it just didn't actually register to my brain. It blows me away that this tiny little device is so powerful. Everything arrived properly packaged, wrapped and protected. Grabbed myself 2x 18mm and a 14mm bowls, as well as one of the new glasswood bowls just to have a variety and backup. Shipping cost is quite a lot so I took the advice many of you gave and prepared for a future cleaning accident.
Did my first hit on 4 (sorry, manual, I know you recommended 3 ^_^) and it was so tasty. Upped it to 6.. perfectly even dark roast, basically identical to what I see out of my TM2 on 6-7 range, so this is dialed in for me real easy out of the box it seems like. Haven't put it through a full session yet, just a CBD bowl during the workday, but I am already very satisfied with my decision. More posting to come as I spend time with it
First impressions: I honestly could not have been prepared for the actual size of the unit. Even seeing pictures before arriving, it just didn't actually register to my brain. It blows me away that this tiny little device is so powerful. Everything arrived properly packaged, wrapped and protected. Grabbed myself 2x 18mm and a 14mm bowls, as well as one of the new glasswood bowls just to have a variety and backup. Shipping cost is quite a lot so I took the advice many of you gave and prepared for a future cleaning accident.
Did my first hit on 4 (sorry, manual, I know you recommended 3 ^_^) and it was so tasty. Upped it to 6.. perfectly even dark roast, basically identical to what I see out of my TM2 on 6-7 range, so this is dialed in for me real easy out of the box it seems like. Haven't put it through a full session yet, just a CBD bowl during the workday, but I am already very satisfied with my decision. More posting to come as I spend time with it
goldenbrown
Active Member
But that's a lot of energy for only 3+ hours. With a 20Ah powerbank the WS runs for 8 hours, so the Couchlog being 6V and using a bit less power than WS, should last at least 8 hours with a 20000mAh powerbank
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
Guess I'll have to try it again! ; )
condition
Well-Known Member
I am using it only through glass. In general, I am satisfied with the purchase, it is my 1st log vape. After starting using it with hash, I like it even more. With herbs the roast wasn't even, only sometimes with very fine grind.
I haven't tried yet through the glass injector with flat screen, but I believe the screens of the metal chamber are a weak point. They stuck inside the wooden sleeve, and I recommend providing also rimmed screens (if possible) as they do not lose their form, like the minivap filters or the tinymight 3d cooling stem. They last for very long time.
Also do I insert the default stem, inside a 14mm bong, or am I going to damage it? Now that I have the wooden sleeve of the glass M/P broken and glued, am I going to scratch the default stem where it makes contact with the glass? Because on the website there is a photo of the default stem inserted on (what appears to be) a 18mm bubbler, because mine doesn't go so deep and I only have 14mm bubbler ATM.
Finally, does the wood quality affects the vapor or all CLs provide the same vapor?
I haven't tried yet through the glass injector with flat screen, but I believe the screens of the metal chamber are a weak point. They stuck inside the wooden sleeve, and I recommend providing also rimmed screens (if possible) as they do not lose their form, like the minivap filters or the tinymight 3d cooling stem. They last for very long time.
Also do I insert the default stem, inside a 14mm bong, or am I going to damage it? Now that I have the wooden sleeve of the glass M/P broken and glued, am I going to scratch the default stem where it makes contact with the glass? Because on the website there is a photo of the default stem inserted on (what appears to be) a 18mm bubbler, because mine doesn't go so deep and I only have 14mm bubbler ATM.
Finally, does the wood quality affects the vapor or all CLs provide the same vapor?
I also worry about scratching the stem on a frosted joint. I pretty much only used it as a WPA on 14mm because it seems like less of a problem with that. However, I suspect I am worrying for nothing. The glass lined ones have a 14mm glass plug at the end. However, you saw there are some problems that can happen with some of those above in the thread.
I have entirely switched away from using the wood stem as a WPA because I much prefer the glass bowl to the metal herb chamber. A few of my friends prefer the chamber, which can also just be dropped into a typical 18mm injector bowl with an oring.
I get no wood taste from my CL stems, but other people have with various woods. I think any flavor cures out eventually.