nodrog
Well-Known Member
oh, over time for sure. I think an occasional cleaning would be easier than removing the insert after each session.
CCA Liger banger V3.0
- Thread starter mrbonsai420
- Start date
oh, over time for sure. I think an occasional cleaning would be easier than removing the insert after each session.
After countless ounces of product through these things I have yet to have one stick? I guess you guys are getting them to stick by dabbing on the side of the Ti and letting it drip in between the insert and the bucket? Maybe I am just steady handed but even on the 16mm I don't miss the insert so I haven't had this issue. In fact the inside of all of my Ti buckets never need cleaned at all for this reason? only the top where I cap it needs cleaning after a few weeks.
BUT Josh is fully aware that this was an issue for some users with the V2 inserts and that issue has been addressed, that is why you see the chamfered outside edge of the V3 insert. This angled cut reduces the chance of the insert "locking" into the bucket from the occasional missed dab.
I will take a close up pic tonight and show you what I am talking about.
nodrog
Well-Known Member
My guess is that it has to do with the temperature. I dab at 600-625, so it doesn't all vaporize at once. My guess is if I were dabbing at 750-850, I'd have less sticking issues. I'm pretty careful to only hit the bottom of the bucket with the dab -- my guess is that some of the vapor is condensing and causing the sticking. I haven't actually tried this liger without the insert, interesting thought.
mutten840
Well-Known Member
I have had my dish and the SiC insert get stuck together where I could not spin or move the insert. I dropped it in a baggie with ISO and ran hot water over it. After soaking for a few, I was then able to move the insert without issue. My instance was from me getting it on the top of the insert and it then getting between the insert and the bucket. Since correcting for this, I have not had any issues with removing the inserts once the Liger has completely cooled down.
So I'm thinking about investing in either the 20 mm or the 30 mm. I was originally only considering the 20mm but I see everyone saying if you're taking "big dabs" to go for the 30mm. I think of my dabs as big, because compared to my partner and the few friends who dab with me from time to time they are big. However, I think in the general scheme of things my dabs may be small enough for the 20 mm. So the question I have for people who've used both, what size dab is "big" and calls for the 30mm over the 20mm? And if everyone else ever using my set up is only taking tiny dabs would I just be better off getting the 20mm so I don't have an unecessarilly large surface for everyone else?
alittledabwilldoya'
Sapphire Powered Dabstronaut.
I'm with Bonsai on this one.
I too have dabbed multiple ounces through my V3s over the last few months.
I have never had any issues with inserts sticking in the bucket.
I always keep an insert in the bucket.
The only time there isn't an insert in my bucket is if I'm switching inserts (wihich I do with the nail hot).
The bottom of the inserts and the bottom of the bucket are always super clean with no vapor residue.
I'm running my 20mm V3 @ 640*-660* depending upon which insert I'm using.
As Bonsai noted the V3 inserts have a chamfered bottom outer edge to help alleviate any sticking.
I didn't use the V2 enough to see whether or not insert sticking was an issue.
Gonzo_da_wind
Well-Known Member
Exactly,however how high you put the temperature can affect the lifespan of your coil. DNAIL advises staying clear of 900. Stating that to run the coil near or at 900 will void Thier warranty.I'd stick with the Auber flat coil or if you can find any other flat coils with a higher wattage, the higher, the better .... probably. I personally don't feel like the 30mm is advisable for a regular and or consistent use.
I dab around 560-600 and whilst the neck of the liger will get clogged with charred build up after awhile. I've not HAD the issue of the insert getting stuck inside even at the lower temperature that I dab at daily.
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Hmmmm, man I don't see the guys here with the 30mm Liger using temps anywhere near 900f - I'm not sure where this reference came from (maybe for cleaning? I don't clean anything by heating my coils up this way though!)? 650f is the sort of temperature I'm hearing for the 30mm with sapphire insert. That is perfectly reasonable for hybrid nails that use an insert rather than direct contact between a coil and the sapphire surface - not much higher temp than I use my sapphire halo in direct contact with my flat coil (no heater retainer in-between for me!). Any standard flat coil should be fine being used at 600-700f on a 30mm liger - heat cleaning at super high temps will of course reduce the lifespan.
I have only ever used d-nail heaters and have had one single coil die on me since I've been using enails in the last 2-3 years. This was from a known faulty batch of coils that slipped through QC and was swiftly replaced under warranty. I leave my d-nail on 24/7. The current coil has been running for years!
By the way, if you're wondering: I use pressurized steam, tightly controlled high-temp water baths (you should see how clean even the filthiest evo ELB comes out if after you iso clean it, you leave it in a dish full of water boiling at 360f for 10-20 mins!) iso and qtips to clean materials including sapphire, ti, quartz, borosilicate and nearly everything else vape related. I never use super high temps to clean anything except for blowtorching silicone carbide clean. I don't even torch quartz or ti!
Gonzo_da_wind
Well-Known Member
I was speaking in relation to a reference made by no nodrog mentioning a temp range between 750-850, as well as the initial design needing to be run around this temperature range whichhas been marginally improved since, but still see a need for temperature settings to be mid 700s at least To achieve a complete one draw dab from the 30mm with a fair amount of vapor trail.
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Was this with sapphire, or one of the other inserts? IIRC nobody has the final heater shroud yet and the beta one for the 30mm was too big and so inefficient. They use a washer now which makes it a little more efficient but this is a stop-gap solution. The final version shroud is supposed to be properly sized and shaped for better efficiency. This sort of thing is not that uncommon with beta products unfortunately. We'll obviously see if it is properly sized and more efficient soon enough!
KimDracula
Well-Known Member
If stuff is sticking together I think the best advice is to simply clean it more often. I'm not really a heavy user relative to many dabbers but I do an iso soak followed by hot water and minimal q-tipping about twice a week and it keeps things easy to break down and to use.
I did finally have an issue with the insert sticking in the vapor bucket. It was probably due to some oil getting between the insert and the Ti. I just left the insert in the bucket as it went into the iso jar and it came out fine. It was actually fortunate for me since I hadn't realized how gunky the SiC insert had gotten (although I did notice a dip in flavor before discovering the reason). I used a little steel wool and q-tip action and got it back to performance shape. Since the SiC is such a dark color it can be hard to see buildup.
I did finally have an issue with the insert sticking in the vapor bucket. It was probably due to some oil getting between the insert and the Ti. I just left the insert in the bucket as it went into the iso jar and it came out fine. It was actually fortunate for me since I hadn't realized how gunky the SiC insert had gotten (although I did notice a dip in flavor before discovering the reason). I used a little steel wool and q-tip action and got it back to performance shape. Since the SiC is such a dark color it can be hard to see buildup.
I probably have over 25 total inserts by now in all sizes and I have never broken one (Knock on wood) and I abuse mine pretty hard. My very first V1 quartz insert that goes in the original V1 liger is still a daily driver for my sister. I have dropped the 20mm sic on the hard tile floor red hot and it didn't leave a mark. I thought it was a gonner for sure. I also dropped the 16mm quartz on concrete and it survived the fall. I torch clean mine as well and no heat stress marks at all.
So all in all I would say they are pretty sturdy. Plus the fact that you usually have them surrounded in Ti helps. I wouldn't suggest dropping them on the tile floor or concrete like I did but it's nice to know they survived when I did.
I dropped my SiC insert on tile while it was hot too. Just bounced a few times and then I had to wait for it to cool before I picked it up. My inserts fall out of my 2.0 if I turn it over while it's hot.
YabaDabaGoo
New Member
The 20mm will work great for most people. I haven't tried the flat coil setup that the 30mm requires but Bonsai has them all and he likes the 20mm the best as well.
"Big Dabbing" for the 30mm to really be advantageous is like 1/8 gram dabs minimum (like almost three rice grains!).
herbivore21
Well-Known Member
Yes, I was gonna say I would never recommend this especially if you own sapphire or quartz. You're gonna break shit.
But again, to clarify, nobody has the final 30mm heater shroud part and so we should take all reviews of the 30mm with a pinch of salt until the final version has been put through the paces.
Also a larger dabbing surface gives more efficient vaporization if it is efficiently heated and you spread your dab around effectively by moving the storm cap or by applying it in this way with your dabber. More hot surface area in contact with a thin film of your dab = more efficient boiling.
Armerad
Dabbin'
Hey, sorry to repost, but I posted this on page 5 and it got looked over. Any takers?
alittledabwilldoya'
Sapphire Powered Dabstronaut.
1: Yes, although I'm not sure if the website is set up with that option.
However, the deciding factor that allows one to dabncap all in one motion, is not the carbcap.
It's the handle.
The Skeleton handle (which comes with the master set) is the handle you want if you desire to "dabncap".
Although one can still use the Skeleton handle in the more traditional dab-flip-cap method.
The contoured/slim handle will not allow one to dabncap (only dab-flip-cap).
It's possible that another variant of the contoured handle will be released that will allow a dabncap, I haven't heard the final word regarding that suggestion.
2: No, not scrape.
Although I haven't used the shovel/scoop in this fashion.
With the other tips, after adjusting it to the proper depth, it's possible to touch the sides of the insert.
I've tried to use it to aid in the dropping of the dab by circling the tip around the outside of the insert.
Seems to work well, I have relatively little oil run up the dabber tip (less than when using the dab-flip-cap method.
Honestly I have only tried to use the Skeleton handle/Stormcell dabncap combo a couple of times.
If you want to dabncap the Hurricane cap is the way to go.
Anecdotal estimated data indicates that I'm using the StormCell cap with Contoured handle ~75%.
vs Hurricane cap with Skeleton handle 20%.
& Hurricane cap with Contoured handle 5%.
E) dry qtip after each dab and occasionally an ISO qtip
And Josh advised we use the dropper tech on the others. ( I am spoiled and lazy so I still torch clean mine sometimes
) But this is the way is should be done according to the manufacturer for major cleanings in addition to regular swabbing."I personally use 2 Q-tips (both sides) after every dab! This is key as it will keep the insert very clean overall; just be sure to wipe/scrub before the oil turns black and starts to turn hard.
To Deep clean inserts (Quartz, SiC & Sapphire):
1) Find/Buy 2 eye-drop containers, fill 1 with distilled water & the other with 91%+ ISO
2) With all your equipment installed (like you would have it if you were taking a dab), turn your E-nail down to 250° F
3) Grab a stack of Q-Tips! You will need them handy for the next step
4) Once the E-nail is at 250°, take your Distilled water dropper & carefully go 1 drop at a time directly into the insert (Be-careful! It like to quickly overfill!) {USE Q-TIPS IN CASE OF OVERFLOW}
5) Once the water is almost finished boiling inside the insert, apply a single drop of ISO into the insert
6) Scrub clean with your Q-tip before the ISO evaporates
7) Repeat steps 3 - 5 as necessary. (I usually repeat it 2 or 3 times)
"
alittledabwilldoya'
Sapphire Powered Dabstronaut.
For me, A.
I haven't tried the h20/iso@250* yet.
If my dab is so good that I forget to q-tip, I will normally crank up the heat to 999* for a bit (giving me coil temperature of ~850*).
@nodrog the stuck inserts that you are experiencing, are they in a Liger V2 or V3?
Gonzo_da_wind
Well-Known Member
I'd be concerned with a small amount of residual alcohol getting into the body of the nail and caugbt in any reclaim in the right or liger. that could taste pretty knarly on one's next Dab . I can't imagine that there'd be enough to do much more than taste but a word of caution to any overly stoned neat freak who might get overzealous with the alcohol cleaning mid session. Vaping alcohol has a increased bioavailabilty than ingestion and one could almost instantly suffer from alcohol intoxication and or overdose. JUST be sure to give adequate enough time and tasked a small test pull on the rig before going in for the actual dab.E) dry qtip after each dab and occasionally an ISO qtip
And Josh advised we use the dropper tech on the others. ( I am spoiled and lazy so I still torch clean mine sometimes
"I personally use 2 Q-tips (both sides) after every dab! This is key as it will keep the insert very clean overall; just be sure to wipe/scrub before the oil turns black and starts to turn hard.
To Deep clean inserts (Quartz, SiC & Sapphire):
1) Find/Buy 2 eye-drop containers, fill 1 with distilled water & the other with 91%+ ISO
2) With all your equipment installed (like you would have it if you were taking a dab), turn your E-nail down to 250° F
3) Grab a stack of Q-Tips! You will need them handy for the next step
4) Once the E-nail is at 250°, take your Distilled water dropper & carefully go 1 drop at a time directly into the insert (Be-careful! It like to quickly overfill!) {USE Q-TIPS IN CASE OF OVERFLOW}
5) Once the water is almost finished boiling inside the insert, apply a single drop of ISO into the insert
6) Scrub clean with your Q-tip before the ISO evaporates
7) Repeat steps 3 - 5 as necessary. (I usually repeat it 2 or 3 times)
"
.
