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Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer

QcMat

New Member
Anyone from Canada order a from NewVape lately? My SH shipped 24th of December, and since the 27th of December, has been stuck at "International item has left originating country and is en route to Canada" 11 Days stuck there.

Pretty disappointedly slow shipping, I already received 2 bongs and glass bowls I ordered on DHGate after my newvape order.

USPS Priority is cheap and shouldn't be used to ship such expensive items.
 

EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
Anyone from Canada order a from NewVape lately? My SH shipped 24th of December, and since the 27th of December, has been stuck at "International item has left originating country and is en route to Canada" 11 Days stuck there.

Pretty disappointedly slow shipping, I already received 2 bongs and glass bowls I ordered on DHGate after my newvape order.

USPS Priority is cheap and shouldn't be used to ship such expensive items.

Tbf to NV and USPS, xmas eve shipping in the west, I'd expect much potential delays, and less so from China. Also, IIRC, USPS have funky updating of tracking that doesnt accurately reflect its progress (seems that way in the UK when I import stuff anyway).
 

CANtalk

Well-Known Member
@QcMat, that's not surprising in my experience with shipping over the holidays, and especially beginning on the 24th. FWIW, I ordered an item out of the US on Dec 19th. It shipped by DHL on the 20th, went to Canada Post and arrived to me on Jan 4th.

I much prefer USPS/CP to FEDEX/UPS; they charge a lot of customs broker fees for packages shipped across the US/Canada border. YMMV.

Hope it gets to you soon.
 
Last edited:

Baron23

Well-Known Member
Late to the party but the tilt of the heater doesn't bother me at all and I agree with those who think that tightening this tolerance would cause more problems than it solves.

I always use the carb cap with my SH and I just press down with it to level the heater and get a good seal....I don't even think about it...just rather happens.

Cheers
 

thevapist

Well-Known Member
Hey everyone! This seems to be the spot to chat about everything NewVape.

How long does it typically take them to get you an invoice for the wire transfer? Curious if I'll be able to take this on a trip with me or if I'll be waiting a bit for the whole process to be complete.

Thanks!
 
thevapist,
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Vaporware

Well-Known Member
If you want to get an ETA and expedite things, I’d call them; the number should be on their website.

Otherwise I’d guess a day or maybe two, but it could even be same day. Not many of us can answer that specific question because they only had to start requiring wire transfers recently. They usually ship within a day or two when they’re not especially busy.
 
Vaporware,
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notlow

Active Member
Hey everyone! This seems to be the spot to chat about everything NewVape.

How long does it typically take them to get you an invoice for the wire transfer? Curious if I'll be able to take this on a trip with me or if I'll be waiting a bit for the whole process to be complete.

Thanks!

With all due respect to NewVape, making a purchase with them was one of the most painful purchases I've ever had.
a) Getting questions answered took longer than I expected, communication overall was very slow at best. (days to reply)
b) After getting tired of waiting, I had to email and ask them to send me the wire transfer information. (Turns out it's not a wire transfer at all it's an ACH transfer)

You need to place the order, wait for the ACH info to be manually sent out. Then after you do the ACH transfer, you need to wait for that to clear (1-2 days usually). Then once the ACH transfer clears they do seem to ship the same day.

If I wasn't dead set on getting their products already there's no way I would have gone through with the purchase.
 

Vaporware

Well-Known Member
That’s too bad...I know they read this thread, so hopefully they’ll see your post and look for ways to improve this new system. It was faster and easier before, but they were losing a lot of money to fraud. Credit card companies kept giving back hundreds or thousands of dollars to “customers” (AKA scammers) after they received their orders so NewVape had to do something to deal with it.

I hope they’re continuing to look for other good methods of payment, but the CC companies that seem to be hostile toward companies that sell this kind of equipment are the main problem here.
 

fatbiker

Well-Known Member
Sorry for double posting, but I have a quick question for vrod owners..
Should the 2 halves meet or is a gap normal?
I've screwed the 2 sections together, noticed a gap. Tried to unscrew them and they're stuck now.
I'm unable to use much force as I have blisters on my hands from trying to take the showerhead apart a couple of nights ago lol
I think I need to buy some big mole grips or something lol
rsviv8.jpg
Well, is this normal? Mine is like this too.
 
fatbiker,

Vaporware

Well-Known Member
I’m not sure whether or not that gap hurts performance, and it doesn’t seem to be uncommon to have a gap, but I don’t think that’s the way it was designed to fit.

How hard did you try to get it completely closed? When I put mine together (using a NewVape coil from Black Friday 2017) it started with a small gap, but I started moving it a little to see where the coil might still have room to slide, tightening when I could, and before long I had it completely closed.

If that doesn’t work you might also check to see if there’s a bend holding the VRod’s top up at the little cutout where the coil goes in. If that’s the problem you can bend it back down if you want to.

Of course it’s also possible (especially if you have a third party coil) that your coil is just a little too tall or slightly off somewhere that prevents a tight fit, so please don’t break anything trying to force it. Good luck though, if any of you try to massage it into place! I think a lot of you could get it together with some careful little adjustments. :)
 
Vaporware,
Any tips for cleaning the double weave screen? I use the debowler spike and have a little brush that I've been using, but if I look from the bottom, the circumference of the clean screen area is slowly shrinking. What do you all do? Should I drop it in ISO?
 
digitalninja,

Pyr0

Stoned Roses
Chuck it in ISO, rinse & dry and give it a brush, throw it on top of the showerhead (let it cool down) and give it a brush, lightly torch it (let it cool) and give it a brush.
Whatever works for you.
 

thevapist

Well-Known Member
With all due respect to NewVape, making a purchase with them was one of the most painful purchases I've ever had.
a) Getting questions answered took longer than I expected, communication overall was very slow at best. (days to reply)
b) After getting tired of waiting, I had to email and ask them to send me the wire transfer information. (Turns out it's not a wire transfer at all it's an ACH transfer)

You need to place the order, wait for the ACH info to be manually sent out. Then after you do the ACH transfer, you need to wait for that to clear (1-2 days usually). Then once the ACH transfer clears they do seem to ship the same day.

If I wasn't dead set on getting their products already there's no way I would have gone through with the purchase.

It is a little cumbersome, but I can feel for them getting ripped off as a small business. I got the invoice early this morning and they got back to me about a question I had right away and also altered my order for me. This all probably just depends on how busy they are like the site says.

It's an ACH payment yes, not a wire transfer, which I was ready to do. I think they should clarify this as they are separate forms of payment. Besides that I am overall happy with the service but I really wish they had someone on the phone for the price of this equipment.
 
thevapist,
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Vaporware

Well-Known Member
Any tips for cleaning the double weave screen? I use the debowler spike and have a little brush that I've been using, but if I look from the bottom, the circumference of the clean screen area is slowly shrinking. What do you all do? Should I drop it in ISO?

I soak them in iso, then I run the sink and a sprayer attached to the sink through them in both directions until it looks pretty clear. If it doean’t get clear it probably needs more time in the iso. If any tiny bits hang on a toothpick or a needle will take them out, depending on how deep they’re in the screen.

I don’t think it’s good for this stuff to be wet though, so I generally put them right back in iso after getting as much water off as I can. Of course I let the iso evaporate off before using any of it. If I had a good brush and used it regularly I doubt I’d have to do this very often, but as it is I do it probably every couple of weeks.

Personally I avoid torching because of the iso, the discoloration it could create (including on the bowl of the screen is in it), and the fact that the metal will weaken over time if it is repeatedly torched. The way I do it the same screens have lasted over a year with no significant signs of wear.

If anyone has a better method or concerns about the way I do it, please let me know because I’d be happy to refine (or if necessary replace) my cleaning methods if there’s a better way!
 

pxl_jockey

Just a dude
For all my screens, after iso soak, I give ‘em a quick rinse and inspection. If anything remains, I have & recommend a dedicated(not your partner’s!) power Pulsar toothbrush, one of those cheap ~$5 internal battery jobs and it’s lasted over a year and “pulses” (the head vibrates:brow:) like new since it’s only been used for screens and threads/grinder. It may seem like a silly suggestion to some but I really like the results.

Holding the screen with tweezers or my preference: old-school surgical forceps, I just hold the toothbrush against it. Since the bristles are vibrating there’s no trying to agitate debris by manual brushing, which sucks as the screen moves around. It’s amazing, even better than toothpick/needle duty, no concentration required! I’m with you @VaporWare on not torching screens, it’s easy to see benefits in longevity of normal screens and with the double-weaves, torching might not hurt them but it will ugly them up really good.

VW, you are correct about semi-regular brushings cutting down on the deep-clean but as you say, it’s not really that often. I’m currently using the S&B brushes cos they’re cheap and easy, like me. :D I don’t believe you need to worry about remaining water after rinsing screens in the sink, certainly no need to put them back in iso. Just dry the screen with your breath, t-shirt or atmosphere and you’re good! I love to hear about everybody’s methods and techniques because that’s where most of mine come from.

@Hogni As much joy as it brings me to disagree with you, regardless of topic, I’m honestly not sure if a titanium brush is required for the task at hand; just don’t use a SS brush on Ti is the big rule AFAIK. But is this why you want a titanium brush? Or do we “need” one for other purposes? I happen to know that you like pretty things so the repurposed flux brush, erm I mean the “Errlectric Ti Nail Brush” probably won’t interest you much, especially at $20US. So now we “need” a pretty titanium brush made by NV.
You sir, are a Ti fetishist! :razz:

I’m still feeling very strong emotions about the VRod but they are BIG MACHO emotions for sure! :cool: I’m not a one-vape man like many here, I like to play around too much throughout my day but the VRod has definitely taken Centre Stage. I’ve been so smitten that I already grabbed a 110V coil because I simply couldn’t bear the thought of being apart for 3-4 weeks on holiday. I’ll need a Pelican case next...:rolleyes:
Do I have a problem? :haw: Is this what a problem looks like? :mental: Please tell me it’s not a problem!!! :lol:
 

Vaporware

Well-Known Member
@pxl_jockey My biggest concern with the water is that I clean my screens and bowls without taking them apart and there’s a little cut-out holding the screen in place where water gets trapped.

I can blow through it and get most of that out, but without rinsing it with a safer (for this purpose) liquid or heating it up soon after rinsing, I don’t know how I’d easily and reliably get that part dry.

I don’t know how bad it would be to let it stay there until it evaporated after every cleaning, and I’d rather not worry about it if it doesn’t matter, but from what I know iso seems like less of a potential problem to leave in there than water.

Oh, and some people put their parts in a ziplock bag of iso and put that bag in an ultrasonic cleaner. That’s another good option for those looking for cleaning tips. :)
 

pxl_jockey

Just a dude
@VaporWare ah, missed the crucial part about not taking them apart. Sorry mate. :disgust:
Yeah, I was trying to avoid bringing the ultrasonic cleaner into the conversation. Because my brain has begun to circle around on these appliances lately. Everyone who has one, absolutely loves it; not sure if I have enough bits to warrant the purchase yet but completely sure that I’ll need one eventually. Lots of good members here use them for FP parts so between that and glass bits, I’ll surely be able to justify it to myself in no time!
 

Hogni

Honi soit qui mal y pense
@Hogni As much joy as it brings me to disagree with you, regardless of topic, I’m honestly not sure if a titanium brush is required for the task at hand; just don’t use a SS brush on Ti is the big rule AFAIK. But is this why you want a titanium brush? Or do we “need” one for other purposes? I happen to know that you like pretty things so the repurposed flux brush, erm I mean the “Errlectric Ti Nail Brush” probably won’t interest you much, especially at $20US. So now we “need” a pretty titanium brush made by NV.
You sir, are a Ti fetishist! :razz:

Do I have a problem? :haw: Is this what a problem looks like? :mental: Please tell me it’s not a problem!!! :lol:

That's exactly the reason. I'm also normally using the S&B brush for brushing away the loose debris and use a small ultrasonic cleaner with ISO for deeper cleanings of the small parts incl. my bowls and screens but I would like to use a ti brush in-between for the cleaning of the harder debris on the ti screens. And it would be nice not to have to order just an - relative - expensive brush at Errlectric across the pond with unreasonable shipment costs in addition but directly at NV together with other NV stuff for a - hopefully - cheaper price. Makes sense? So no, bro, it's not just ti fetishism ;)

Yes, Sir, you have a lot of problems but not this one. Sounds reasonable to have a 110v coil in stock for your US travels. But an ugly - but useful - Pelican case is too much :nod:
 
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