Arizer Solo

E

exit

Well-Known Member
RD said:
As I haven't received mine yet, this is the first good view I've had down the bowl. From an engineering view point, I can see why people report a better draw if the tube is lifted off the bottom. When all the way down, a tube would cover the holes as I see them. I saw that some one also suggested a screen to keep tube off bottom.
Click to expand...

I don't put a screen in there. I just leave my top cap unscrewed just a bit to make a looser fit. I have an O RING in mine for easy adjustment.
 
Gray Area

Gray Area

Well-Known Member
Lusi said:
I surrender! Just dumped bud everywhere again. My days of tying monkey's fists are over. Lol I Don't have feeling in All my fingers and thought it was me... the friends did the same.... we could all be ham fisted monkeys, but I think my solo stem Just needs breaking in. The other is easier to remove.

Twisting does help. So did pushing up. :)) The stem is just catching both ways and pops off. Time?

I'm afraid I'll break it off while removing ... :( I already knocked My solo over on the granite counter. The stem hit a banana or it would be toast. I'm hesitant to handle any glass items. Lol :-/
Click to expand...

Just put a chunk of bud in there (don't grind), works great and problem solved...
 
oli

oli

Well-Known Member
Last edited:
oli,
syrupy

syrupy

Authorized Buyer
Lusi said:
This does help.... Would a metal screen on the heating element help even more?
Click to expand...

I didn't have much luck putting a screen in the oven. I put a 3/8" honeycomb screen on the top of the loaded bowl, and that kept the material from directly touching the heating element. It's only an issue when I went up to 5 and 6 levels.
 
E

exit

Well-Known Member
Just curious, if my battery goes bad again outside warranty, it can't be hard to wire two 18850s together, right? Thinkin if I get a pair of 3400mAh's?
 
exit,
L

Lusi

Well-Known Member
OK, tell me if this is normal. .. I put stem in with no herb and the air flow is just as restricted as with bud! My MFLB with a stem is less restrictive. It's like sucking in a milkshake.

Right now, I have a coarse metal screen over the four holes. ..nothing else. :( The stem has lots of flow not plugged in. Lol
 
Lusi,
syrupy

syrupy

Authorized Buyer
Lusi said:
OK, tell me if this is normal. .. I put stem in with no herb and the air flow is just as restricted as with bud! My MFLB with a stem is less restrictive. It's like sucking in a milkshake.

Right now, I have a coarse metal screen over the four holes. ..nothing else. :( The stem has lots of flow not plugged in. Lol
Click to expand...

Try lifting the stem up a tiny bit, and compare loaded and unloaded. It should definitely be less restrictive unloaded. Something sounds blocked.
 
syrupy,
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
exit said:
Just curious, if my battery goes bad again outside warranty, it can't be hard to wire two 18850s together, right? Thinkin if I get a pair of 3400mAh's?
Click to expand...

Actually it's not that simple, you need a protection PCB since there's two in series. This is the pack I rebuilt using the circuit from the dead pack:


The white thing on top of the batteries is the thermal safety, the protection board is closer to the camera. I've bent the tabs on the batteries and soldered them (carefully) to make the connections. Some insulation/protection and it's back into the Solo.

There's also a pre made pack with two 18650s and a PCB but there the board is on the end so you have to remove most of the jacket to fit it in.

A key here is the tabs. You need batteries intended for pack service (as opposed to loose cells), ones that have tabs spot welded on (you solder to the far ends only). Soldering directly on them is to be discouraged. The heat can lead to seal leaks (slow death for Mister Battery) and can also lead to shorts, often spectacular in nature and not always immediate (they've been known to blow up 'on their own', like when being charged, later). Remember the protection board can't protect you from this.

While there are batteries out there with more that 2200 mAh, there's a good reason why they're not in Solo or laptops, camcorders and such. The compromises needed to optimize performance in the pack environment puts the 'state of the art' at that level (or slightly above). Batteries with higher mAh ratings will probably have shorter service lives. You can get tabbed batteries up to about 2600 mA currently.......sorry, you don't get many chances for puns around here. The 'smart money' seems to be on 2200s.

BTW, I've also made a pack using all new parts, I'm testing it now, I really should get around to writing up a report on it, some lessons learned there worth knowing.

OF
 
ataxian

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
OF said:
Actually it's not that simple, you need a protection PCB since there's two in series. This is the pack I rebuilt using the circuit from the dead pack:
The 'smart money' seems to be on 2200s.


OF
Click to expand...

Not to sound like a broken record however I have 2 SOLO's.
One had a bad cell in one of the batteries.
When I replaced the battery pack in my LEMON I used a 2200 rated battery pack.
My second unit works as good as my first SOLO.

We need to be careful with "TEASPOON TECHNOLOGY"!

"If one is good 2 must be better"?
 
michaelstone

michaelstone

Well-Known Member
Had I not been watching for mail, they would've left it in the same compartment and not left proper key since my mailperson was unaware of issue smh.

I got a M1D2

EDIT: with a stainless steel bowl instead as well. Wonder why they switched from the light copperish looking one.
 
michaelstone,
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E

exit

Well-Known Member
michaelstone said:
Had I not been watching for mail, they would've left it in the same compartment and not left proper key since my mailperson was unaware of issue smh.

I got a M1D2

EDIT: with a stainless steel bowl instead as well. Wonder why they switched from the light copperish looking one.
Click to expand...
maybe it has to do with the faster heating times? idk
 
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thesoloman

thesoloman

Well-Known Member
exit said:
I don't have any pics of my old one but I'm sure most of you are well acquainted with the older models' bronze-ish color? The M1C1 is super silver looking. No yellow/browns at all. I wonder if it's stainless?

4F5WOFp.jpg


I was worried I wouldn't but I really like the silver on this one (as opposed to the black M1B it replaced)!
Click to expand...
Your going to make me buy a new solo so i can have a shinny bowl, damn you:myday: !
 
Caligula

Caligula

Maximus
I feel as though the hits I get via the PWNT are noticeably smaller than with the stock stems. Is this my imagination or maybe the PVHE gong?
 
Caligula,
michaelstone

michaelstone

Well-Known Member
Hmmmm my number 4 light is doing this weird slight flickering while charging, even though its almost full
 
michaelstone,
thesoloman

thesoloman

Well-Known Member
Caligula said:
I feel as though the hits I get via the PWNT are noticeably smaller than with the stock stems. Is this my imagination or maybe the PVHE gong?
Click to expand...
the hits are smoother, which may lead you to think that they are smaller, also i believe that more air is being drawn in thru the PNWT which in turn cools the load more, and leads to not as milky rips in your case.
 
Snappo

Snappo

Caveat Emptor - "A Billion People Can Be Wrong!"
Accessory Maker
Caligula said:
Yes the hits are much thinner imo
Click to expand...
Could be because the larger vapor particles are getting caught up in the diffusion and the smaller smoother vapor particles are what you are experiencing. To the senses it can appear thinner, but actually, through a PNWT a fuller lung with equal or greater concentration is what you can get, IME.
 
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