Arizer Solo

Yoshi

Woah
Just a side note, I love how I'm comfortable putting this down on surfaces sideways. It's not even that warm to the touch.

As I think I said, I intend to test this idea. I ordered just such a GonG piece from PV in 18mm (the only option in stock) with no intention to use the carb hole. Nor do I intend to use half my hands plugging it up. I plan to simply plug the hole somehow when I don't want it. I'm thinking some wraps of teflon plumbing tape backed up by wire or string wraps or maybe a patch cut from a piece of slit silicone tube (I've got some 500F tube) lashed in place?

Maybe even a small cork? That would give it a real Luddite feel....and I like that kinda stuff.

I don't see rigging a patch as a big deal, duct tape might even do it but I'd rather not have adhesives in the mix. The price is the same IIRC and the hole will always be available should I decide later to mess with it.

OF

I already have a bong that has a carb in it, it just wouldn't work. :doh:

For now, I have to draw out of the stem or use my Buddha for water filtration, but this thing is so smooth through the stem itself that I have no need for water filtration. :cheers:
 
Yoshi,

toros23

Well-Known Member
are you all serious about the M1A, M1B bullshit? its the serial number, they are simply incrementing them in a logical order which is increasing the number by 1 each time. just because you get an M1A does not mean you got an older model, it's the fucking serial number. the internals are likely exactly the same as the M1B, it was just made at an earlier date than the one with the M1B.

i hope this puts all the retards minds to rest, you idiots worry about the most ridiculous things on this forum.


You created a new account just to say that? Geesh...
 

CountVapeula

Well-Known Member
just wanted to share my new solo setup:
1w0GHah.jpg


working pretty good. except the bubbler is extremely small, but also extremely cheap, portable and easy to hide, if necessary. ;-)
 

CentiZen

Evil Genius in Training
Accessory Maker
are you all serious about the M1A, M1B bullshit? its the serial number, they are simply incrementing them in a logical order which is increasing the number by 1 each time. just because you get an M1A does not mean you got an older model, it's the fucking serial number. the internals are likely exactly the same as the M1B, it was just made at an earlier date than the one with the M1B.

i hope this puts all the retards minds to rest, you idiots worry about the most ridiculous things on this forum.

Um, no. Not really. In the past the serials were updated upon new runs which had changes like different parts, firmware upgrades and other changes. So it's not as simple as you think, but hey, thanks for trying to boil it down for our cretinous little minds. I'll guess we will just have to stew in our ignorance for a little longer.
 

Armerad

Dabbin'

WakethBaketh

Well-Known Member
I'd recommend a fine meshed screen so that you aren't eating a salad with each stem, keeping your stem condensation purer aswell.

Just to be clear you mine the size "Fine" on PV with the link I provided right? Or just a generic fine mesh screen?
 
WakethBaketh,

OF

Well-Known Member
I already have a bong that has a carb in it, it just wouldn't work. :doh:

You do understand we're discussing a specific stem from PV, not your personal bong, right? Do you have that stem and have tried it and found it doesn't work?

FWIW, I have a small bong with a piece of tape holding a teflon pad over the hole, it seems to work just fine..... I no longer have to be careful where I put my thumb using it.

OF
 

m0sh

Singer Song Writer Stoner
IMO, I like the "fine" mesh...there's an even finer mesh provided with the Ed wood stem - it is the best against practicals but it needs cleaning every once in a while...

As long as the "fine" screen, "finest" and the less fine screens are all clean - the airflow would be the same...if you have a 4 hole stem I'd recomend the "fine" screen ... pretty much nothing will go through the stem and you won't need to clean it a lot like with the "finest" screen...

Its all about balance... and 4 hole stems ;P
 
m0sh,

WakethBaketh

Well-Known Member
IMO, I like the "fine" mesh...there's an even finer mesh provided with the Ed wood stem - it is the best against practicals but it needs cleaning every once in a while...

As long as the "fine" screen, "finest" and the less fine screens are all clean - the airflow would be the same...if you have a 4 hole stem I'd recomend the "fine" screen ... pretty much nothing will go through the stem and you won't need to clean it a lot like with the "finest" screen...

Its all about balance... and 4 hole stems ;P

I'll also be getting the pvhes as well :) Thanks for the advice!
 
WakethBaketh,

m0sh

Singer Song Writer Stoner
I'll also be getting the pvhes as well :) Thanks for the advice!

Good choice, I did not try the Turbo, but I have a wood stem that as one hole and I much prefer the 4 holes solution...if I had the turbo, I'd go with the "finest" screens...

Oh, and you're welcome :)
 
m0sh,

arrr

Well-Known Member
As I think I said, I intend to test this idea. I ordered just such a GonG piece from PV in 18mm (the only option in stock) with no intention to use the carb hole. Nor do I intend to use half my hands plugging it up. I plan to simply plug the hole somehow when I don't want it. I'm thinking some wraps of teflon plumbing tape backed up by wire or string wraps or maybe a patch cut from a piece of slit silicone tube (I've got some 500F tube) lashed in place?

Maybe even a small cork? That would give it a real Luddite feel....and I like that kinda stuff.

I don't see rigging a patch as a big deal, duct tape might even do it but I'd rather not have adhesives in the mix. The price is the same IIRC and the hole will always be available should I decide later to mess with it.

OF

OF let us know how this works out.

Also if PV gets any non carbed gongs in stock please send me a PM i would very much appreciate it.

I think i may take the pitri dish that came with the solo to my local head shop (owner blows his own glass) and see if he can convert it into a gong. Anyone think this is possible?
 
arrr,
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OF

Well-Known Member
Gentle Friends,

Coming 'up to speed' on Solo I thought I'd share a couple of thoughts/discoveries I've been having. First off, I too have followed the 'my stem's too loose' saga with some interest. I think there's some useful and fun play here for those inclined. I'm a bit worried about hardware store (plumbing) o-rings. IMO they're not a good choice of materials due to temperature concerns. There's a long way between boiling water hot and were we vape. I can see they may well get overheated, being BunaN or Neoprene rather than Viton or Silicone. They're also soft intentionally (better to seal water leaks), I'm not sure that's what we want? I also think the normal cord folks are using (1/8 Inch) is a bit too thick (witness the trouble some have getting the lid all the way down), 3/32 cord seems better sized. Likewise, half inch ID means it has to stretch a lot to pass the stem. I think the size we want is (industry standard size) -113? And in some high temperature material.

However, I think the idea is not to seal but to grip? A line contact like a ring is not really what we want, making the washer type seal a good idea if the hole is right and the thickness OK. Along those lines I'm having very good luck with a very short piece of 550F Silicone tube. Even though it's nominally small (half inch) being as short as it is (about 3/32 as best I can cut with scissors) it easily stretches and being as soft as it is it adjusts easily without problems. Mine is working very well for the last several days, if you have high quality silicone tube in that size I recommend trying it.

In a whole other area I too have had my white knuckle time staring at the lights. I have a very nice 9 Volt six Amp switcher here I'd love to use as a PA but it won't work. Even after dealing with the funny connector. It's giving the 'bottom 3 LED light show' instead. I just did a little test that I think has tied a bunch of this all together. Someone suggested a similar set of problems with charging being erratic was the result of under voltage from a defective wall wort. That got me to thinking about the auto switching that has to go on inside Solo. It has to sense that the 12 supply is good for charging but not for PA. Likewise, it has to 'know' the nine Volts it sees is not to charge with but to use for PA mode. No switches involved. So, I rigged it up to a variable supply and had a watch. That's exactly it. A solid 12 Volts is fine, but it 'yanks a bit' on it and if it sags too low it starts light shows. Several different ones that no doubt spell something useful out to those in the know. A bit above 9 Volts the 'last 3 together' show happens and stays the thing to do until just under 9.0 Volts when PA mode kicks in. As luck would have it my '9 Volt' supply reads 9.2 unloaded. Notice the '9 Volt' supply they sell (and label the unit for) is actually 8.5 per the nameplate? Clue there I think. It's not '9 Volts' for PA it's "at least a bit under 9.0" that's called for. Or so it seems. Next step I lower my supply down a mite and see if that makes everyone happy again. I bet it does.

I think there's more here than meets the eye. Randomly trying supplies is likely to not come out the way you'd normally think. Unless you've a taste for such stuff, sticking with the factory gear is probably the best call?

OF
 

Kief

Medicated
I'm a bit worried about hardware store (plumbing) o-rings. IMO they're not a good choice of materials due to temperature concerns. There's a long way between boiling water hot and were we vape. I can see they may well get overheated, being BunaN or Neoprene rather than Viton or Silicone. They're also soft intentionally (better to seal water leaks), I'm not sure that's what we want? I also think the normal cord folks are using (1/8 Inch) is a bit too thick (witness the trouble some have getting the lid all the way down), 3/32 cord seems better sized. Likewise, half inch ID means it has to stretch a lot to pass the stem. I think the size we want is (industry standard size) -113? And in some high temperature material.
Yes, -113 is the right size. Glad there's someone else here explaining why we need to be using Viton or Silicone, I believe there's many using the other types. Maybe your voice is just what they needed to hear.

However, I think the idea is not to seal but to grip?
The other benefit from the o-ring is that it forces all of the intake air to go through the heater instead of some getting past the stem. The down side to this of course is more draw restriction.
 

happyTrails

phishpanicjam
Gentle Friends,

Coming 'up to speed' on Solo I thought I'd share a couple of thoughts/discoveries I've been having. First off, I too have followed the 'my stem's too loose' saga with some interest. I think there's some useful and fun play here for those inclined. I'm a bit worried about hardware store (plumbing) o-rings. IMO they're not a good choice of materials due to temperature concerns. There's a long way between boiling water hot and were we vape. I can see they may well get overheated, being BunaN or Neoprene rather than Viton or Silicone. They're also soft intentionally (better to seal water leaks), I'm not sure that's what we want? I also think the normal cord folks are using (1/8 Inch) is a bit too thick (witness the trouble some have getting the lid all the way down), 3/32 cord seems better sized. Likewise, half inch ID means it has to stretch a lot to pass the stem. I think the size we want is (industry standard size) -113? And in some high temperature material.

OF

I tried the O-ring from Home Depot as suggested. While it did an awesome job of holding the stem in place, I detected a change in taste. As you suggest, I feared it could not handle the temperature. While it looks unscathed and did not smell offputting, I removed it. No sense in taking the risk. May try a piece of UD silicone tube cut strap style to create the desired tension. Thanks for the idea!
 
happyTrails,
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Dreamerr

Always in a state of confusion and silliness♀
OF HUH on the first thought and double HUH on the second thought but that is always a huh.

Happytrails make a pic if you can
 

OF

Well-Known Member
The other benefit from the o-ring is that it forces all of the intake air to go through the heater instead of some getting past the stem. The down side to this of course is more draw restriction.

Understood. Sealing may or may not be a good idea, but the topic I was working on was loose stems, not airpath: "However, I think the idea is not to seal but to grip?". Perhaps I should have been more clear.

I think a consideration for another day? If changing the airpath in the process becomes a problem we should be able to notch or otherwise modify our efforts here I'd think.

OF HUH on the first thought and double HUH on the second thought but that is always a huh.

Though house.

Lincoln was right, some are not up for geek talk for sure. Wait until I get started on airpath.......

Not to worry Lady. Close your eyes, breathe deeply, think calming thoughts.....it'll pass.

OF
 
OF,
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Dreamerr

Always in a state of confusion and silliness♀
So what you are saying is when you figure it all out you will help me....:love:

My brain so going to be off now for a few months...stress big time.
 

Kief

Medicated
Understood. Sealing may or may not be a good idea, but the topic I was working on was loose stems, not airpath: "However, I think the idea is not to seal but to grip?". Perhaps I should have been more clear.

You were perfectly clear... to me, but maybe I was not. I understand that the main problem is loose stems falling out, I was only pointing out the other effects of the o-ring because it completely changes how the vape works. I'd guess that most users would be looking for that same "grip without seal" option that I think you are. My own preference is sealed with the silicone o-ring and would like to notch my stock stems, I did not like the grooves on the PVHES.


If any Solo owner did not slow down and read the pages of this thread where Tintest shares his modifications with us, I highly recommend it. I'm not trying to say his mods are good bad for a specific person... our needs, tastes, glass stems, and even Solo's vary a little. What I am saying is that his posts and the back-and-forth discussion that goes on around his posts will possibly help you understand how your Solo works a bit better, that discussion starts here.
 
Hey everyone! I've been lurking on the forums for a while now and with your advice and some other research I made the plunge and bought the Solo. I've owned an EZ Vape, Vapir One v5.0 and an NO2 previously and none were nearly as good!

I did a search and couldn't find a similar question on this, so forgive me if it's a repeat.

Is there a company that makes an inline water attachment for the Solo? Could one like this be modified to work? The way the whip end looks it seems like (and remember, I've never worked with glass so I could be way off) you could heat up the end and work it out to the correct size. Also seems like it wouldn't be too hard to craft one with the right know-how; maybe even rig one up with the straight stem and a bottle or something.
 
viciousambitious,
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